@@blacksmith7996 sure. But this is a way to make a pattern plate. You could directly laser engrave or etch the silver, takes about 2 hours each one. After making a plate you can make an impression in about 2 minutes.
Jack, fantastic work! How deep do you think can this laser engrave? I currently cast pieces but sometimes, fine details are lost. A laser would probably come in handy.
@@Jalvi_au thanks. I can get 0.5 mm with the emboss function, maybe a bit more. The settings in the software still aren’t optimized for engrave and cut but pretty good.
Appreciate the video, Jack. I just happen to stumble upon it while searching RU-vid. I hadn't seen a post about it in our Facebook group. It's good to see you actually at work and how you do things. Thanks!
@@marknelson7451 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nswn5rrD1H8.htmlsi=uIWGujCgkU6TKDxf. There are several providers. Just google smartvise.
@@bitwhiskers6969 thanks for asking. Not particularly. When I engrave by hand I rarely can recover much in the way of chips either. But, it does vaporize the metal and it will lighten it a bit. I may do a before and after weight comparison for interest. But for most of my designs, I sense the losses are close to being in the noise.. for deep designs or cutting the losses might be significant
I see how deep the engraving is. If you did try, do you think you could cut it out fully given enough passes? I have already seen your Titanium cut out video. Very informative. Would annealing the silver help? What about Argentium vs Fine silver? Do you think it would make a difference in engraving or cutting? I am also wondering about precious metal clays that have been dried enough to carve before firing.
@@hooksntoggles cutting is a bit different. Right now it is easier to get depth using the emboss function since it allows for an axis rotation after each pass. To cut effectively we really need to have a wobble in the laser path so that the kerf can be a little larger and eject metal. I’ve not found a difference between annealed and hard for silver. Can’t speak to Argentium since I don’t use it but it may do just fine. It has a harder time with fine silver though. It will work, but the addition of copper to alloy it makes it easier to laser engrave. Also don’t know about the unfixed but dried silver clay. But that might be an interesting application.
I had surgery on my left hand and it is very difficult to hold my metal while sawing. I'm interested in the bench pin you are using if you would be kind enough to share.
Did you enamel the backs (counter enamel) of your cabochons? They fit pretty flat on the setting as if they have no enamel in the back. Good looking work. Thanks!
Im wopndering why your red fiestaware plate doesnt have the usualy black wiriting on the plate that identifys it as real fiestaware from 1972 or earlier manufactuer dates
Good video! People need to educate themselves more.I see most people are afraid of the radioactive pendant although it has 500 counts per minute and potassium salts have almost the same reading..If this plate is safe than those pendats are safe also .
Hi, thanks for this demonstration. I'm just getting into enamelling and I love the idea of being able to draw a design and then paint it, it brings together so many of the hobbies that I've played with over the last 73 years. Man I just love being creative. Kind regards . . . Andy
Is a glass etcher a necessary step? It’s very hard to find in my country (no idea why) but I have plenty of diamond coated files for enamel, would it be possible to achieve decent results, or do I have to go look for glass etchers online?
The chemical process is not necessary, but much more repeatable and easy. All you need is some amount of “tooth” on the glass. Sanding with diamond or silicon carbide should work fine IF you can get an even surface. I had some success also by painting the surface with a light coat of white watercolor. When it dries it will accept the graphite if you are careful.
This was heavy enough to handle the differential stress of expansion without cracking. Since the glass and metal have different coefficients of expansion it is safer to dome the metal so that as one side pulls the other side pushes and the forces equalize. This is what many enameled pieces are domed.
I tried this and used a 6B- my design almost went away after firing- maybe I over did it, not sure but I was really disappointed after all that work getting it ready.
So this geiger counter only detects beta and gamma and x ray but not alpha. Alpha needs a mica window to be detected so all you did was increase the beta detection slightly
