i wonder if a thinned out floor wax airbrushed would be a good top coat, say, like a watered down type of "future floor wax"? would be an interesting challenge for paining and decals afterward.
The best chrome ever in terms of shine and realism, BUT ABSOLUTELY UNUSEABLE ! Even after 4 months drying, you can't handle the chromed parts, even with cotton gloves ! At the moment, I've rejected it from my workbench, until REVELL find a good sealer for it !
I built a 1/48 FW-190 and decided to only build smaller planes in 1/48 from now on. I do build modern fighters and bombers, etc in 1/72 as I live in an apt. and space is at a premium.
Just don't forget to open the window. Nearly "fumed myself dead" back in my apartment days. Painted with them all closed and it hit me sudden and hard that I was about to pass out.
Fellow valley resident here (west side) and I'm not a fan of 1/72 either, but I do like properly cooked liver and onions... 1/72 is just to small for my liking. Unfortunately my modeling time is getting seriously reduced because I have been exiled to my garage to work on them and it gets way too hot to paint, and even cement dry faster. The Fw190 looks great though. Thanks for putting it up.
Man I have been building in my garage for about 20 years now. East West exposure too so never a break from the heat. You "kind of" get used to it but it sure sucks the fun out of it. I got a portable AC unit and have it right next to me. We'll see how well it helps. Out on the West side so you're probably make your way to Andy's once in a while?
@@rebelroostermodeling6460 I have the same east/west facing as you. The heat itself doesn't bother me, just the effects on building is a pain. Yes I do make it to Andy's about once a month or so. Most of my stash comes from there.
I have been procrastinating buying these cutter for a while, but I just got pushed over. Going to hit the store next week. Great video with excellent comparisons and explanations. Thank you. Semper Fi!
I apply some super thin CA glue over the dried putty with a paintbrush and sand it before too long. That putty loves to drink paint. CA creates a good barrier.
I really like what the pigment does - a great technique, thanks. I'm new back to the hobby and want to move to water based acrylics as I'm now modelling in the middle of the house and don't want the lacquer smell that sticks around from cleaning up. So I've been trying MM paints. I really wanted them to work and have meticulously fallowed their instructions and FAQs, but I can't get the paint to stick. I've even gone through their gloss coat with water when laying down decals.
I had a lot better times with MMP when they were in their first years. Since Createx got involved they seem to have gone downhill. I still like the paint but the thinner and poly are just junk. Half the time I bought them and they were useless before I even opened them. So I use that AK High Compatibility Thinner and/or Mr. Hobby Aqueous Thinner (purpleish label) to thin the MMP and I apply the paint over Mr. Surfacer 1200 and/or 1500 and except for a couple colors I have had far better results and durability. For their metallics I use Mr. Hobby GX2 Ueno Black as an excellent base or I concoct my own base with a mix up Mr. Color Smoke Clear and GX2.
@@rebelroostermodeling6460 Thanks for the reply. I'm trying out AK 3rd Gen and Mig acrylics to see how they stand up. I'm using Stynylrez as primer now - Mr Surfacer 1500 and MCLT is excellent but it then has the smell problem.
@@anthonypipia6990 I tried with and without primers and gloss bases and saw no difference. The durability problem isn't adherence, its in the formulation....weak at the surface/chemical level. Looks great, and for wheels it should be fine because not much happens with wheels. But as an aircraft guy I have little use for it.
@@anthonypipia6990 if it were me I would, but for $28 a can....I hope you have a lot of wheels to justify the cost. For one or 2 cars I probably would use something else.
Hello Terry, I really liked your video called: 'Ep 2 EVEN BETTER NMF Bare Metal Finish than before. Mr. Color SM08 Plate Silver Next' but unfortunately this paint is now virtually impossible to get, plus it is discontinued by the manufacturer; I want to make a request of you and that is that you do an 'update' of this Ep2 and try the new paints called: Super Metallic 2 and do the same tests that you did with the SM08 with the colors SM201 (Super Fine Silver 2) and SM208 (Super Chrome Silver 2). First of all, Thanks!
Hello Terry, I really liked your video called: 'Ep 2 EVEN BETTER NMF Bare Metal Finish than before. Mr. Color SM08 Plate Silver Next' but unfortunately this paint is now virtually impossible to get, plus it is discontinued by the manufacturer; I want to make a request of you and that is that you do an 'update' of this Ep2 and try the new paints called: Super Metallic 2 and do the same tests that you did with the SM08 with the colors SM201 (Super Fine Silver 2) and SM208 (Super Chrome Silver 2). First of all, Thanks!
Hello Terry, I really liked your video called: 'Ep 2 EVEN BETTER NMF Bare Metal Finish than before. Mr. Color SM08 Plate Silver Next' but unfortunately this paint is now virtually impossible to get, plus it is discontinued by the manufacturer; I want to make a request of you and that is that you do an 'update' of this Ep2 and try the new paints called: Super Metallic 2 and do the same tests that you did with the SM08 with the colors SM201 (Super Fine Silver 2) and SM208 (Super Chrome Silver 2). First of all, Thanks!
Terry you know what video series I think you would be great at? Modeling Japanese Warplanes of WW2. You would be excellent at that because of your obvious interest in them and your no doubt vast knowledge on the subject. You could do videos on the different paints used for different models, who makes the most accurate colors, how to mix those paints yourself etc. then you could do reviews of different model companies versions of these planes and even real life history of these plains. Anyway I really enjoy your videos and hope you make some more!
Greetings! You mentioned trying to find ways to achieve variations in the aluminum coat. I did see one RU-vid modeler, although the name escapes me, who used something akin to a black based mottling technique. Before the main metal color was sprayed down they mottled the gloss black coat with a variant shade of metallic like a bright silver. I suppose it might work with a darker metal shade, such as darker steel or iron. Then sprayed down the main coat. The effect was impressive.
Yeah that SM08 is a bugger to find. I ordered an SM204. I'm wondering if I can get a similar effect if I add more less pigment powder. But still highly buff out the plastic. Thanks for the tips. I saw a video of Molotow. And that stuff is indestructible. even with a top clear coat. And a chrome look. Wow! Use that car model chrome but not aircraft
Great Vid. Did you use the flat fan brush when you did the hand painting? It worked for me. I buy all my brushs from an art supply store and by as many different ones as they have. Usually about 3 or 4. I also hold the brush very loosely so as to put as little pressure on it as possible. Let me know what you think.
Thank you sir, I did not consider the prospect of applying decals over chrome but it's good to know that it will work (good old Micro Set to the rescue).
One day Revell will come out with a clear protective covering for the chrome...we can only hope... I've tried everything and all i get is the reflective chome turning to silver. We can only hope i guess...
It depends. If its Airfix or Revell, I definitely polish the plastic first. Tamiya, sometimes. Hasegawa is usually OK by itself. Using GX2, it is shiny enough to not need a polish if the plastic is well prepared.
Funny and to the point. Got it. I actually had a need to mix regular thinner with retarder (often called 'extender') for oils. I found that linseed oil may also work as a retarder.
You definitely did your homework on this build. Lots of modelers mistakenly trust the color call outs for the engine and cockpit given by Tamyia, only finding out later that they are completely wrong.
What stuff do you use for cleaning the airbrush in between every colorchange, and when you clean up your airbrush? Could you give us a link to something you do recomend?
I always use hardware store lacquer thinner. Both in between colors and for "big time" airbrush cleaning. Kleen Strip is available at all the big box places and walmart too. What you DO NOT want is the "earth friendly" lacquer thinner....it is terrible and will not clean. I also will, for acrylics, sometimes use 99% IPA alcohol between colors. I paint a lot, real lot. I do one tear down on the brush a year, more out of habit than necessity. By doing proper thinning (1:1 isn't really thin enough) and taking the needle out evry once in a while, the airbrush should hardly ever need to be taken apart. Here is Part 1 on airbrush cleaning and care, there is also a part 2. Have fun! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dph9fZUi_fs.html
I'm 8 mins in the video and all I can say is: DUDE, why??? It's paint in a spray can, no way on Earth you should mix it with any kind of thinner before spraying on your object!! Spray paint is ONLY meant to use stand alone direct from the spray can.
That is a popular myth. The reason those cans are not thinned is because the pressure needed to propel them is so very high. Every builder who has been doing this very long and who understands paint and its properties does decanting. Will Pattison, Sean at PrimedModelWorks, Nightshift, Shane Doak, Yowske Eguchi, look at the greats. They all know it. Its been done since the 1960s. I can't believe you never heard of this.
please man if you don't know how to use this paint. then don't mess around with it. And if you can't speak German, don't try. is not very nice to our German neighbors. that would be the same if people from the Netherlands still said Nieuw Amsterdam instead of New York. Because it was Dutch territory 🤔
If you're taking about a chipping base under the color, yes if you seal with an acrylic clear. But its not really necessary. I just use LP11 or any other basic silver under colors for chipping.
@@rebelroostermodeling6460 I was asking about the method you used to make the bare metal that reflective, if I used it on a gloss sea blue would it work or is there a different method you would recommend?
@@gamingwithjacobi8757 Well in honesty, metals are really the only thing I ever get to excited about making glossy. I'm more of a weathered/worn paint look guy. I have done a few experiments with glossing if you are interested. But due to the limitations of YT I can't show you much on what I have done with gloss colors. But if you send me your email I can message you directly and show you a few pictures too and you can see if its what you are looking to achieve. If its not in my YT account description, I have a generic yahoo account bacobaco6869@yahoo.com
I can save you the trouble....all of them turned it into grey paint. Very odd reaction. The only thing that "kind of" left it alone was Vallejo Metal Varnish (the water based stuff that smells like cherries) and the Aquagloss. But even those totally ruined the chrome look.
That works for the armor guys, but aircraft and especially the car guys (they can be pretty darn discerning) need the paint applied in multiple, rather thin, coats. I know Andy well, for like 16 years, really good guy. Lucky me, his shop s only about 15 minutes from my house. Then again, because its so close.....I'm always emptying my pockets there LOL. Anyway, he likes to get the painting done in as few coats as possible, so that's why he thins in the bottle. He's 95% armor so he can work with that. But as an aircraft guy, I am more picky with my paint work so I go about 65-70% thinner to paint. Takes longer but gives a better and smoother finish, which to armor guys isn't necessarily what they are looking for..
Funny you bad mouthing the cheap airbrushes and i have seen pro´s getting good results. By the way i thought i heard you call the Neo an Iwata, its not Iwata who make the Neo.
I think you misunderstand a couple things. First, the purpose of the video. Its an honest and objective comparison of various brushes....that's all. Second, "Neo by Anest Iwata" and "Neo for Iwata" are both right there on the box. Look at it like "Squier" vs "Fender" or "Epiphone" vs "Gibson" if you look at it like guitars. Not the same, but the same...in a sense. Anyway, I'm not knocking cheap airbrushes, but rather giving an honest cost effective comparison based on the capabilities of each one. You can spend $179 on an Iwata HP-CS one time, and have a 20 year airbrush with minimal maintenance that will never let you down. You may need a needle and cap maybe once or twice in that 20 years if you paint a LOT. Or you can buy a cheap $50 brush that upon receiving needs to have the needle polished, seals replaced, and other customizing to "make it good" which blows up the initial price you thought you saved. And then in 2-5 years its no good. So you buy 4 more brushes over the same amount of time plus all the extra stuff to make it turn out good......so you end up losing money and having repeated maintenance wasting your time. I tried and used 'em all, so my opinions are based on the factual results I obtained. I much rather to just plug the hose in, mix paint and get going...knowing every single time that the resyults will be both good and predictable. Another thing to think about is if you look at the best model makers (I won't say "pro" because "pro" means nothing. Many of the "pros" just aren't really that good) like Sean at PrimedModelWorks, Nightshift, Matt McDougall, Mike Rinaldi, Plasmo (who you will see evolve in his tools as his work improved over time), MM Scale Models and especially the very excellent Japanese builders like Yowske Eguchi or ToraModel, you'll see that they all use the better airbrushes. A sense of objectivity is needed to be considered as well. Too many people try to prove their point by posting a picture in 480p from 3 feet away, and that is not an honest look at the results. Get up close and take high-resolution photos and then go further by comparing it to photographs of the real thing (or at least some work from someone who is a much better modeler) and it is clear that better tools = better results. A surgeon can't perform a good surgery with a steak knife. But in the end, all that *really* matters is if the result pleases the builder. If they are happy with it, that's enough. But if they want to get better, then better tools are a fact of life. My homily is over, thanks for the comment and have fun out there!
Great set of tests. The last finish is a convincing chrome. It should be smooth enough to not even need decal setter? Or just clear coat it? I'm about to do a B-29, will be my first natural finish... but nah, not $30 for something I gotta decant and then buy thinner, too. You gave me a lot of ideas for my project though. Great vid.
Thanks for the comment. While this is a very convincing chrome, I would caution on anything stronger than water. Because it is so very smooth, decals will be too easy to come off and that's one the places it loses me. I've seen a few guys do the color painting and decal work, seal and cover them, then do the chrome last and finally uncover the painted and decaled areas. Because the chrome has to go on in wet coats, there seemed to be no need for prep work like regular metallics so it didn't look toooooo hard. Just the same, I think the car guys will like this better than the aircraft guys. For a B29 I'd just go with one of the tough lacquers like Alclad or the Mr. Hobby metals. Even AK Xtreme Metal though technically its an enamel.
Using this on certain panels would be a good idea. Even polishing to different levels on separate panels. Doing a uniform polish on the entire model would be reserved for a completely *polished* aluminum aircraft. Not as common to see a combat aircraft in such a state though. Bare aluminum isn’t like polished aluminum.
Exactly. I have a few shortcuts I take that in my opinion make it not only less work than masking and using different metal shades, but also give a more natural look. Using different mixes of smoke and black for the base gloss is one. Sanding different panels in different directions and/or levels of polishing. Rubbing a metal powdered pigment over certain panels but not all. That may be why I obsess over metal so much....so many different things to try.
Thanks for the video, I wanted to see how these perform. I'm in Canada so these would be hella expensive after I pay the currency exchange, and possibly import fees.
Just remember, sprue cutting only. Too many people cut wire etc and ruinate the nippers. You Canadians seem to get the better end of the stick on paints, and us down here in the States the better of the tools it seems.
