Thanks for stopping by my channel. I enjoy tinkering in my garage and fixing things. I'd like to take this channel in the direction of more documentary based restoration. Hope you enjoy!
Picked up a '95 EX500 myself! MY FIRST EVER BIKE and let me tell you, I am a little excited and a little scared to check under the tank because the oil filter is CAKED in dried up oil. The last owner did not service is since he bought it in January '24 and that means I have no idea how badly it was before then either. But it runs?? It ran so thats all that matters to me now, because as long as that works, everything else can be replaced or repaired right?! Gonna be using your video and a few others ive managed to dig up in order to work on mine, I gotta say thought I'm jealous of your fairings, mine are definitely not that clean lol
Thank for taking the time to put the informative video together. I just bought this exact welder today. Harbor Freight had a one day $99.99 sale today. It is still in the box. I have a Lincoln 240 volt welder, I needed a portable 110 Volt welder. Thank you!
FWIW, if you buy tires from Cycle Gear, you can dismount your wheels from your bike, take them to Cycle Gear, and Cycle Gear will swap your new tires onto your wheels free of charge.
i got a few questions about your nighthawk, im looking to buy one for 225 and its in super similar condition to yours and i was wondering if its going to be worth buying it and how much money you put into yours since you got it
I probably put about 1k into it. But that included some tools, paint, the piston rings were expensive, other discontinued odds and ends. Personally, I'd pass on it since it's such an obscure model in the states.
A 2005 Mitsubishi l200 with an inline 4 COP ignition system with an engine code of 4G64 SOHC engine installed in it was pretty okay. Thus, the client used it for some errands from the morning hours to the afternoon and it was perfectly running. Nevertheless, when the client returned home the 3rd time, his boy reversed the vehicle within the man's compound for a wash. If I'm not mistaken though, the car stalled on him or it was about 20 minutes ago when the boss was about to move again with the car that the noticed the problem. But they said it was only a reverse he did. The car would crank, start but stall immediately within 4 seconds. I was called to rectify and fix the issue. One of the things I checked when the car was cranked was the fuel system. With ignition on, the car wouldn't pump even an iota of fuel through the fuel hose to the engine. Bypassing the pump directly to the battery positive and ignition switch to the on position, there's a great pressure or amount of fuel from the fuel hose. Alternatively, I unplugged and plugged back the 3 wire CKP sensor connector and noticed a great buzz of fuel too. I proceed with testing fuses and relay from the engine bay and only one fuse was bad and it was replaced. From inside the car I all relays and noticed that the CKP sensor no longer pumps fuel to the engine with the unplugged and plugged method but the bypass method and noticed the relay location that controls the CKP fuel pressure buzz on ignition to the battery positive still wasn't affected. I didn't know more to do there than swap the relay. Next, I checked for injector pulse and noticed only a single or no pulse at all. I tried to hook up a scanner to conduct some test however, the scanner was not connecting. Next, I checked and observed that the timing was pretty weak. I showed the client, he said I should replace it which I did. Presently, it's a crank no start, single injector pulse no spark, no communication to my scanner. Please, how can I address this issues? How can I bench test the car 3 wire CMP, CKP sensor with a multimeter or a test light or LED light outside the car? Where is the fuel pump relay location. Please send me the car wiring too , partaining to the no start most likely.
Heyy, I saw your post on reddit. I just picked up the exact same bike/same colour = Love it! ..I'm in Canada..she has 48km = about 30k miles. I got it basically off a mechanic who fixes/sells bikes, so it's running like a top..only put on 100km's so far, but got 'er up to 140KPH & it's very smooth. I'm no speed demon..still have my 07 Ninja 250 lol but wanted to feel 'er out. Very smooth,. much nicer ride than my 250. I live pretty rural, travel allot of dirt roads, so Im going to put on 60/40 to 70/30 enduro tires. Do you still have this one? How is it running after all these years? Anything I should watch out for etc? Thnx & Cheerz!
Glad you're enjoying it! I think the 500 is a great size in the middle of the pack. Mine is running great, no issues so far. I think some people mention the sprocket(s) are prone to breaking and then the chain whips around, so keep an eye on that
Really appreciate this video. Was wondering about your Kawasaki Concour red I think it was a 2000 or 2003 something like that . I think you had stated in the past that when riding it it gets a little hot against the legs while you're riding it. I'm wondering if you've ever gone on any long touring with it and I don't remember in the video as to whether you said how much you paid for it. as of this day what do you think it's worth used I had one dark green but sold it Cause It needed the front shocks to be rebuilt and I didn't want to have to do it or pay to get it done . but now I'm looking to get another one probably a red 2003 like yours. And last question I know it depends on the make of the motorcycle but in regards to motorcycles in general is over 100,000 miles pushing it as far as expected it to last very long after that without getting an engine rebuilt.
Hello again! Yes, unfortunately the first gen concours have a common complaint about heat issue down by your calves. It gets so hot on it I don't really ride it in the summer. I paid $2k for mine about 2 years ago and I think that was a fair price. I don't think 10k miles for a bike is necessarily too much, but just give it some thought. If it's a 25 year old bike, that's only 400 miles a year. 5 year old bike? 2k miles a year. Sometimes less isn't always better, but I recommend always doing a fluid change on each bike you get! Edir: you said 100k miles. Yeah, that's a bit on the higher side. I would probably steer clear of a bike with that many miles unless you're a little mechanically inclined. Parts start to really wear down, rubber seals, gaskets, all that stuff. It does depend on how well the previous owner cared for it though
Wow, we're up to motorcycle number 5! Hope you guys enjoy this 52 year old bike and watch me work through all the struggles I had with the gas tank this time around.
i JUST got one for 600 eur from 1988 and it everything works on it except the acceleration feeling kinda jerky, it's my first bike and it was a gamble these things are old and not a lot of people want them so hey just sit around
Nice to see that you moved on. And found a new place looks fantastic. you ever decided to sell that kawasaki concour let me know. I'm guessing but I'm assuming you might be around the Carolinas or Tennessee that you moved to. Great choice. God bless you Sir. and you look happy that's the most important thing
This guy is tenacious! Appreciate this video. I have an 05 Connie with 30,000 + miles. Can cruise around all day between 3000-4500 rpm, but this bike doesn’t redline until 10,500 rpm. Kind of a sleeper bike.
For the most part I did. I did a benchtop sync using a drill bit and making sure the butterfly valves opened up the same amount each time. Haven't had any issues yet.
@@N0Fumar Usually it's a run-time check. You hook up the mercury gauges to each carb and adjust the vacuum of each one to achieve highest vacuum, then adjust to make sure all of them have the same exact vacuum. Great video though.
Well, I have to say I was disappointed at the carburetor segment of your video and lack of detail. Not helpful when in other videos and guys do carbs they disassemble everything/clean everything/sync etc. But it was a good overall. Im looking at a 2002 C10 with 52k on it and the guy wants $3800 for it. Pretty pricey. Anyway, thanks for your video.
Hey man, no worries. There are tons of videos on cleaning / syncing carbs out there and I didn't want my video to drag on and on. Was just supposed to be a vlog about getting the bike up and running and less of a how-to
The frame sliders are a piece of plastic that sticks out the side of the bike a little. If you fall, they slide on those and limit the damage to the actual frame of the bike
I had three new ones back to back in the late 80s. They went like a rocket and their top speed varied between 131 and 139 m.p.h. But with panniers fitted they dangerously thrashed around due to air turbulence at close to 130 mph.I guess their model numbers fell in the A1 to A4 range. Because of the turbulence issue Kawasaki de-tuned later models and declared a new top speed of 118 m.p.h. For years I craved for a low mileage one. I now have a 1995 A-7 with 16k miles. I had it fully serviced inc. top of the range exhausts. Wheels painted etc. I had fitted top sat. nav. and two spot lights. But despite all this it runs like a 500cc piece of sh*t. So I now await my tuner's appointment. I don't crave Hayabusa performance simply the performance originally given to this model by Kawasaki which was quite adequate. The Kaw. dealer advises that my bike is close to perfect and runs like new. There is no bigger fan of this model than me, but only if it can be fully restored!
I owned a 2001 GTR 1000 with 24000 KMs owned the bike until 2012 i traded it in with 164000 KMs without any issues on a new FJR Yamaha 1300 which im still riding im 65 in August so hopefully will keep my Yamaha FJR until im to old to keep on riding her all the larger sports tourers should last a very long time as at my age they hardly ever rev past 4 thousand RPM which is about 120 kph on the highway
Hope you get that place of your own. The upgrade from 1 car to two car was unbelievable, while still also having 2 cars attached to the house. How's your 84 run?
@NextLevelAutoDiagnostics awesome. The carbs on mine have been nothing but headaches. It's very hard starting and almost doesn't like having the choke applied. I haven't started it in quite some time
I have a 2004 gpz500 and what a dick made me cringe with his work carbs 5 mins to remove (the tank mount 4 bolts, the fuse box holder 10mm bolt then the front 2 screws by the carb then the wiggle and hey presto it’s out and enough room to put back in with the movement of the airbox , Carbs in a vice damaging the alloy and didn’t check the pilot jets and the breather pipe is well caked in grime restricting the airflow cos if you block that tube the bike will stall, and at the end when he is having trouble when uneven revs stalling and increasing it’s the balancing out on the butterfly’s in the carbs needed syncing not the air/fuel mix and in the garage when he took the bike apart he also needed to put the airbox sides back on as it no efi with the input air mix was more and when starting the engine after a rebuild you need to add the exhaust as it needs the back pressure to help suck the fuel through and yes I’ve found out my self as ive got another 3 in the process of rebuilding from scratch and for my 1994 I need front break master cylinder, both break callipers, and another tank and nose cone and headlight
Great video man. I appreciate the effort and the detail. I just bought an 09 concours so even though different bikes still interesting and helpful information. Love the blooper reel at the end. Two thumbs up my dude!😅
Bro hows the bike? Any major issues? Did you rebuild the l carbs? Any information is helpful for me. I am thinking about sealing the deal on one of these babys!!
My major complaint is that it dumps heat onto your legs. If you primarily ride in a hotter place or in the summer, I honestly would not recommend this bike in it's stock configuration. It's a fairly common complaint on the Concours forums. Otherwise, it's a co for table bike with plenty of power. Get a good windscreen if you grab one, otherwise I had a lot of turbulent air issues
Bruh, on the cooling Tank, I said the same thing about who thought this was a good idea to mount a plastic cooling tank right behind the front wheel as low on the bike as possible. UGH.... The Oil Filter is dry, so remember to just go ahead and add the 3rd Quart then Run it to oil light goes out, then, re-check it........ That head lamp looks really bright. LED? I replaced my front bleeders with SB7001S (last S is for short. The also have an L if you want that.) Water is the best brake fluid cleaner, it is absorbed by the brake fluid (hydroscopic) and thereby dilutes and eliminates it with a lil surface flush. DOT 4 can be used in any DOT 3 system but NOT vice versa. higher boiling point is all. Bruh, you a better man than me. I just pay for it to be done and pick it up. 180-225 in my area. Was thinking of buying the Rabaconda us.rabaconda.com/products/street-bike-tire-changer?variant=46550324052263¤cy=USD&gclid=CjwKCAiAk9itBhASEiwA1my_61BD2AkuFbaMfRjjuiivzrI0jnTZaol5CiiJGFFaknLV-kTY1bcPpRoCC3gQAvD_BwE all in 600 bucks and ya still need some extra bits but has great reviews. Or the Motea with Discount Code MOTEA25 (25% offffffffff whoooo hooooo) Also TOP25 works. 232.+ www.motea-shop.com/en_us/motorcycle-tyre-changer-tire-bead-braker-for-12-21-constands-md4-blue-a576726-0?gclid=CjwKCAiAk9itBhASEiwA1my_6zYKQ44nRO7JVOsu44SoJUDhtfJl16mF36fe0wDFJWMO_vbOBinG-hoCWToQAvD_BwE And I've paid twice for em which would nearly buy the Rabaconda Guess I'm just a dumb fukker
Thanks for the procedure. But the crank in a car turns faster than you probe and so I wonder if the sensor may look fine with a slow test but not work well at a faster pace as required by the ECM. Perhaps a frequency setting on a multimeter may be a better test. Mine fails to show 5V randomly when away from metal.. (as if it gets stuck) but seems to start working again after a few tries.
Well, I mean it's analog electronics that's basically just a hall effect sensor. I guess anything is possible, but my guess is that if it's picking up and sort of reading on the multimeter you are probably fine. If anything, an analog (instead of digital) multimeter would probably be better so you can see swings easier.
