Channel mission: To use low cost tools and materials to Imagine then MAKE (whatever I can think of).
As of August 2021, I mostly build using wood or cardboard and my collection of low cost tools include: * a WEN bench top drill press * a Harbor Freight benchtop band saw * a Harbor Freight scroll saw * several Ryobi 18v battery powered tools (circular saw, drill, impact, ...) * several hand tools used for woodworking (chisels, saws, planes, files, ...) * common hand tools (hammers, screwdrivers, ...) * LibreCAD 2D drawing, SketchUP Make 2017 3D drawing, and Blender (3D modeling and animation)
Low cost materials I have used include: * reclaimed wood (plywood, particle board, pine, MDF ...) * reclaimed cardboard * purchased chipboard * sandpaper and various low cost finishes
All of my videos are numbered documenting when they were made.
Keep in mind that everything is made twice. Everything (1st) begins as a thought and then (2nd) gets made.
I would love to hear how the bass sounds in the cardboard box vs. an MDF box. I just watched another video about strengthening cardboard that references this video said that cardboard cannot sustain bass... Would the corrugations within the cardboard layers interfere with the sound because it is void spaces as opposed to solid structure? I ask because I have no idea how any of that works. I would love to hear a sound test!
Interesting question. I don't really know a lot about sound, but I have spent some time trying to sound proof a portion of my garage; I discovered that it is not a trivial problem to solve. I learned that sound waves do not like to travel through materials that have a lot of mass. MDF certainly has a lot more mass than corrugated cardboard; in other words, it is a lot harder to get sound waves through MDF than it is corrugated cardboard. I think the statement, "cardboard cannot sustain bass" is probably very true. Why are you asking? Are you building speaker cabinets and considering making them from cardboard? Thanks for your question and for watching.
I loved this video. My favorite part was when you glued to the wrong side. Ah, just like real life!! Learned a lot and put in my favorites for when I've got time. Blessings, p
@@ImaginethenMake Said the excellent teacher. Still haven't had time but granddaughter is coming to visit soon and I'll share with her. Thanks again for keeping it real! Blessings, p
Hi Matt. I'm a 72 year old male living in Australia. I have no experience with either 2D or 3D CAD. I am the Secretary of a gated community. We lost the official site survey plans for each of our 52 homes. But, some years ago I photographed each site plan. The photos are blurry and distorted BUT they have dimensions and angles written on the plan. So I did some research online and stumbled upon LibreCAD. I found a lot of RU-vid tutorials on LibreCAD but yours are by far the ones I find most easy to follow. Well done. Thank you. Keep up the great work. I did the intro to Blender tutorial because that nay be my future passion ... to create 3D drawings. Once I am adept at 2D. Best regards David BL Johnstone Gold Coast Australia
Thanks for your comment and for watching David. I tried hard to make the LibreCAD videos as easy to follow and learn from as I could. I'm glad to hear your liked them. Enjoy using LibreCAD and making your drawings. If you have any questions, just leave another comment on any of my LibreCAD videos. I check for new comments every few days and I reply to 99.999% of them. Yes, Blender is an amazing program with which someone can do a lot with. I have only scratched the surface in my Blender videos.
Thank you so much for your great video! This solves the dilemma that i was having in trying to figure out how to move my grandchildrens lemonade stand that that i built for them. Thank you!!! ❤
If you don’t have a saw strong enough to cut through the bead then this method was a failure to begin with. Best method without tools is literally a long 2by4, place it closest to the tire bead drive on it the weight of the car breaks it instantly and if not then it will have at least started the process for u to break the bead.
Agreed. As I found out the hard way, I did not realize that there are metal wires in the bead. For those that want to know more, watch this ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PhOQFARy7c0.htmlsi=uKQBV2dBPMIFV6Lv , Thanks for your comment and for watching.
Good video, but when I looked at reviews for this product on Amazon, there quite a few bad reviews for folks that had the Harbor Freight Scroll saw, as I do. Have you had any of the issues mentioned in the Amazon reviews? Just curious... Don't want to spend $30 and not be happy with the product... Thanks.
Thanks for your question. Take another look at my video. Within the 1st minute, I show you who I bought my blade adaptors from. Here's a link to their website: www.pozsgaidesigns.com/page0006.htm . The Amazon link shows blade adaptors very similar to the one I bought. Some people prefer purchasing from Amazon because it is easy to do a return if you are not satisfied (FYI: you can do a free return to Amazon at your local Staples store.) Maybe I got lucky, but I have been very happy with the blade holders I bought. I originally bought them so I could try out using some spiral blades (which are pinless blades). Since installing them, I mostly use pinless blades now because there is a HUGE selection available. However, I still sometimes want to use a wide flat pinned blade so it is really nice to go back and forth between blade types; the switch over time is a couple minutes at most. I think it is worth noting that installing a flat blade is significantly different than installing a pinned blade. The pins in the pinned blade rest in the holder the same way every time. Since the flat blade doesn't have any pins it can be positioned in slightly different spots. A little practice and you'll come to know what I mean. Here's another video that demonstrates what I mean: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-phlTMNvvUXQ.htmlsi=nCt2f81agTfBbS1F . Thanks again for your question and for watching.
@@ImaginethenMake K, thanks for your help. I went to the Amazon link you provided in your notes above. I'll check out this link you provided. Do you have the Central Machinery model 62519? That's what I have. Again, thanks for your help.
My saw is ITEM 93012. If you click the Amazon link in the video description and scroll down until you find the Product Description section in Amazon, it says "This kit converts most 16" scroll saws to accept both plain end and pin end blades! Easy to Install. Designed for use on these 16" scroll saws: Sears Models 23611 & 23612; Ryobi Model SC 160; Dremel Models 1671 & 1695; Skill Model 3330-3335; Central Machinert Models S 5909, 62519, 93012; Northern Hydraulics Model SS16; AMT Models 4601 & 4602; Reliant Models DD66 & DD67; HAFCO B-18V; Einhell TH-405E; Proxxon Micromot DSH-2; Record SS-16V; Shop Fox W1713-16; Scheppach Models SD1600, 240VS; Deco 405, 88002123; Rikon Model 10-600VS; Grizzly Go563 VS-16”; Wen 3920-3921. Contains all hardware and tools for installation." Notice that both of our saws are listed.
Thanks for your comment and for watching. I think I understand what you mean; the chip board you saw me use was from a box used for food from the recycle bin - FREE. If you had the need and you wanted to spend the money, you can purchase much larger sheets (although in bulk) from here: www.uline.com/BL_1852/Chipboard-Pads?keywords=chipboard . I'm sure there are other places as well. (At my day job, the company buys a lot of this material to be used for packing, masking when painting, or protecting sensitive surfaces.) If you needed to cover a larger area with free chipboard, I would try tiling many smaller pieces. In the end, you might see the seams between the tiles so then perhaps you could use those visible seams to create some kind of interesting repeating pattern on your surface. Hope this helps!
Thanks for your comment and for watching. This was a fun video to do although using a flat blade for puzzle pieces is the way to go IMO. And using a flat blade requires practice!
As I discovered later on in other attempts to remove car tires from rims, the steel wires buried in the tire's bead make it very difficult to remove the bead using simple tools. I don't think a heat gun would help but thanks for the suggestion. Use this link to watch how I cut off a tire bead: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KSQgte-e0T0.htmlsi=wvkftH2KO4QC6LyF . Here are a few other attempts at removing car tires from rims: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-suYfkbVAKG0.html , ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-K8uIcuQHOyI.html , ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PhOQFARy7c0.html . Thanks for your comment and for watching.
Thank you for taking the time to do this! Just started wearing ear defenders after almost a year of plumbing and using multi tools/drills everyday. I’m surprised the multi tool wasn’t above 90db! It definitely sounds the loudest of any power tool we use on the job. Maybe it just sounds louder when you start cutting through the wood/metal? Anyway thanks again!
You're welcome. I'm glad the video was helpful to you. I think the loudness of a power tool has to do with the kind of electric motor that the tool uses. The Universal motor with brushes is most likely the least expensive to manufacture but I find them to be pretty noisy. When I go to buy the next power tool, I'll likely look for one that uses a brushless motor; they should last longer and be somewhat quieter. Thanks for your comment and for watching.
Good question. I didn't wear test the pieces you see in this video. However, I can tell you that my wife still uses, everyday, the tablet stand that I made for her ( ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ULP35cypmH4.htmlsi=-R8TK2J-GnTsVmdD ). Everyday, I still use the box I made for inside my dresser drawer ( ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-W8A-KvtsOPs.htmlsi=qXTbWeVAhSZ4BcyU ). Both of these projects were used to test some of my ideas about building with corrugated cardboard and chip board. I would say each project has been successful and has stood the test of time DESPITE not having any protective finish applied. I am encouraged to make more projects and when I do, I will probably make more videos so stay tuned! Thanks for your question and for watching.
I have not tried shellac probably because of the smell while working with it. When it gets warmer outside, I'll try some then. I bet it will work out great. Thanks for your comment and for watching.
Ha-ha. I hope everyone can see in the video that adding the concrete blocks to the Workmate made it much more stable. Thanks for your comment and for watching.
@@ImaginethenMake I had a scroll saw in the 90s. It was much different than the scroll saws t on day! I haven’t scrolled in 20+ years. I recently purchased a Seyco and am just getting started with it… trying to learn all over again.
I think the Seyco is an excellent machine from what I have seen of it online. I still use the $100 Harbor Freight saw (although I did replace the blade clamps). I think if I tried a more high machine, I would probably upgrade. Enjoy your re-learning. I think the scroll saw is a tremendously versatile and hugely underestimated machine. Thanks for your comment and for watching.
Yes, others have said that as well. That feels awkward to me so I prefer adding the concrete blocks to make the Workmate more stable. Thanks for your comment and for watching.
You're welcome. I'm glad it was useful. Here's a link to my LibreCAD playlist in case you are interested: ru-vid.com/group/PLGCBwUeR2BD2ypYi5k0c4p6M52YO8Z-WD&si=VPJvl3obu_dZVqqD . Thanks for your comment and for watching.
I agree with all you said. But blade Runner is more sutable for most people and curve requirement in average. I am also a furniture maker and its important to say bladerunner doesn't require the same set of skills. New people will keep Braking those tinny blades like my student do ;) its another world.
I hear what you are saying. Different skills are needed for each machine. I've never broken a jigsaw blade, but I have broken a few scroll saw blades. Thanks for your comment and for watching.
Sorry you feel that way. I can tell you I have used this as a crude workbench. A crude bench is better than no bench. Thanks for your comment just the same and for watching.
Just clicked on your video for the love of God Almighty stop don't damage them rare limited run rims been power coated to hide the fact that they are very valuable. You have the holy mowly mother Mary miracle right there you'll never have to go dumper diving. I might be wrong. I usually am
LOL. These rims were trash when I picked them up so I wanted to take the tires off (using the very crude tools on hand) and sell the rims at the scrapyard. Thanks for your comment and for watching.
The challenge I gave myself was to figure out a way to safely cut these parts using a circular saw, not a table saw or bandsaw. (For woodworkers on a budget and short on workshop space, a circular saw is much cheaper and easier to store than a table saw or band saw.) Having said that, I am working on a simpler way to cut these parts using a circular saw - stay tuned. Thanks for your comment and for watching.
Agreed, sticking a piece of plywood plus some heavy weights onto of the cardboard while the glue dried would probably increase the bond strength. Even so, I was surprised at how strong the cardboard sandwich was. I think the perpendicular approach helped to make it strong. I'll have to try this experiment again using long pieces of cardboard with the corrugations all running in the same direction. Thanks for your comment and for watching.
Agreed. Cutting the 2x4s would probably be easier using a bandsaw (instead of a circular saw). The best way to make the cuts would probably be by using a table saw. If you watch my videos, you might remember that I got rid of my table saws a while ago in favor of using a circular saw. That's what brought me to try and make these cuts using a circular saw. Thanks for your comment and for watching.
Thanks for your comment and for watching. Cardboard is typically free and pretty fun to work with. I do have a playlist of other videos using cardboard. If you'd like to check that out, here it is: ru-vid.com/group/PLGCBwUeR2BD0SvqEJhwwjOR53E8DV6FVD&si=exdXdCPiYfAxSyFH .
Look guys: break the bead (both sides); cut the sidewalls. Remove the tire. Then, pry off the remanding beads. You can remove four tires in about 30 minutes this way. To break the bead, use two small bottle jacks or scissor jacks braced against a solid surface.
I really appreciate your videos. I gave up my Sear 10" table saw when a piece of wood flew by my head. I am glad I discovered Rockwell Blade Runner. Keep the videos coming!
I'm glad you didn't get hurt by that flying piece of wood! I too have had pieces of wood fly towards me from a table saw which was my primary inspiration for getting rid of it. The Bladerunner is definitely fun to use (although it is loud IMO). I have a playlist of Bladerunner videos here: ru-vid.com/group/PLGCBwUeR2BD2SPSsV51qPBkK8p1grR-UL&si=cf8bT5bUpZWCbiyG . If I want to make lots of cuts quickly, I try using a circular saw (I think it is safer). I use a battery powered model when possible or a corded model if I lots of cuts to make. Here's a playlist about using the circular saw: ru-vid.com/group/PLGCBwUeR2BD3Cpl2LJax9kvll9B-SDlau&si=eS5EEdRfFkL14ZQ6 . If I only have a few small cuts to make, I tend to use a hand saw; I prefer a Japanese style pull saw. Thanks for your comment and for watching.
The background music for this video is a light jazz piece; simple and upbeat. I chose it because I thought the majority of my viewers would be ok with it. Next time, try turning on "closed captions" (the button with the cc) and muting the sound (click the speaker icon). The words I am speaking will show up as text on the screen and since the sound is muted, you won't hear the music. Thanks for your comment and for watching.
I was able to cut the cable without damaging the rim. I'm wondering why anyone would ever make tires like this, and what kind of machine it takes to get the tire on/off the rim. After cutting the main tire off through the sidewalls, I cut one cable off with a "sonic" oscillating multi-tool with a small metal blade, and the other with some hefty diagonal cutters. The oscillating multi-tool was easier, but extreme care must be taken not to damage the bead route. But man, what a pain it was compared to a regular tire. You're talking about 4 hours to replace a tire as compared to about 10 minutes.
Yes, I can relate to your story. I think the multitool you are referring to I also used in another video at the 5:15 mark; here's the link: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PhOQFARy7c0.htmlsi=0VvdFvWnH7LnhEKC . I'm guessing you have never seen a tire machine taking tires off and putting new ones on rims. You can see these machines in action at retail tire stores. These machines are very powerful. Replicating this kind of power using simple tools from home is definitely a challenge! I don't know for certain so I am guessing that once auto tires went tubeless, the steel wires were added (embedded) to the tire to produce an air tight seal between the tire and rim. In the end, using the reciprocating saw with a new, sharp blade on rims I intended to scrap is the fastest way to remove the tires and beads. For rims I don't want to damage, I pay the tire store to take old tires off and put new tires on. Thanks for your comment and for watching.
@@ImaginethenMake And thanks for the video. The only tires I've encountered so far with this steel cable are old ones. I have a couple more old snow tires on rims to remove of the same type. I hope to get the time to remove (without damaging rims) down from 4 hours to 1 hour. To me,1 hour of struggle is worth saving $20, especially if you learn something in the struggle.
Ha-Ha. It wasn't so much about the money as it was the challenge of getting the tire off of the rim with simple tools. Thanks for your comment and for watching.
