Welcome to the T8 Maker Channel. The focus of this channel is maker projects and maker tools, customizing and building and the tools to do it. To start out, we have 3D printing and printers but will extend this to other maker projects over time. Enjoy the videos and if you see something I can improve on, I am open to all reasonable suggestions.
I print pet-cf through the AMS everyday, never had it break. Seems like you didn't dry it properly. Also the reason why your pet-cf print didn't work is because your settings are wrong. I learned absolutely nothing from this video, because honestly you don't know what you're talking about. I agree with others here who have said this is clickbate, and it is. The two prints you used show absolutely nothing about any of these filaments.
The audio is ok. The picture quality should be awesome but the camera focus and framing is meh, making the video quality above average but not as good as it could be (the bane of all recording) . The almost all natural lighting, colors and definition is what made this vid so much better than everything else I'm used to watch. Don't make my first statements fool you, your the best!
I almost never comment on videos and never comment twice. Especially when i haven't seen half the video but, this quality is what all of us 3d printing enthusiasts want to see for real visual test results. Thank you so much and please, everyone, like and subscribe to set the new standard we are all waiting for.
You have to firmly push the button in the AMS to feed the filament. It's not good just to shove the filament in. It's in front of the hole you pushed the filament into.
Thank you so much for this video. I'd struggled with filament stuck in the same place you showed. The Bambu documentation has everything in tiny bits so it's not easy to follow if you don't know the next step. With your video I got it done on the first try. Thank you!
0.04mm or 0.06mm I want to test my next filament and CF is on the list! Tested ASA ABS 20+ types of PETG I'm yet to print with PA ( CF ) I do have 0.04mm Hardened steel nozzle Will be getting 0.06mm Hardened steel nozzle this week along with CF. Any tips
@kurtv9375 I used a 0.4mm hardened steel nozzle and had no issues. Keep the bed clean and use glue for the PA and dry it, ideally 70c for 12 to 24 hours, which is the most important thing. Good luck.
Dude I don't think you understand the difference in these. It's not about just the cost and finish or dimensional accuracy. It's about the mechanical and chemical properties of the material.
@jibjaboftheflibflab I do, but this is just a comparison of the standard print quality. I leave the mechanical and chemical testing to those with the equipment and the time to do it right. Plenty of great videos covering that by other great RU-vidrs, no need for me to repeat them. But thanks for the feedback.
did you use the ams while using carbon nylon? I seen people say you can't do that no problem with the ams now? wondering since i'm gonna print soon with this filament on my bambu
NYLON is an advanced filament!!!! 1. Drying without a vacuum or vacuum drying oven (the last 15% of moisture can NOT be removed over any length of time) so you will never get to true performance of NYLON 2. There are different types of NYLON (PA6 PA12) so testing setting for your own machines must be done. 3. Moving from PLA base filament (armatures) you should always tune. BAMBU LABs should never be your first printer!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Its not the settings BAMBU LABs filament I.E. other than PLA are not in there pure form like there NYLON has additives in order for ease of printing thus WILL NOT give the same performance as a true PA6 or PA12. BAMBU LABs is the apple product without the apple stores for support and service GOOD LUCK NOOBs when your BAMBU needs service!!!!!
When it comes to pet-cf, don't forget to anneal it. It's critical if you want it's rated heat resistance Use capricorn tubing. It's incredibly stiff and as a result makes it so that bend radi are lower and as a result, your filament shouldn't break
My 3d printer was broken for a while and I searched the internet for solutions, but once I saw your video I was able to fix my 3d printer completely. Thank you so much for making this video.
This is NOT the "Ultimate Guide". He stops short of taking apart the drive gears. If you get heat creep like I have gotten a few times you might have to learn this and it is covered in other RU-vids.
Yes, i don’t split down the gears here, maybe in another video. Would be interested to know what is causing your heat creep, i have never had this, mine is stock. Looking at adding an E3D to test, and it was a concern this might lead to issues.
You just earned a follower, sir. I just got my x1c unit about a week ago and just had my first clog and I realized why I got the clog in the first place, but needed help getting the clog out. Your video was spot on in explaining the how and the why behind the madness. Thank you so much!
Why did you not run test for best printing speeds and Temp for each Filament, rather then box suggestions??? I would say no one besides beginners, ever listen to those setting's without testing, but here we are!!!! 🫤🤨🤨!!! I see too much plastic being extruded bad retraction settings over temps.. the only settings you had dialed in are your PETG's you did ZERO strength test how hard you can squeeze the grip and break it off, or twist the adjusting knob off to a seized part is hardly a test of anything!! you gave your Favorite a fair shake and everything else was out the box!!!! Biases reviews is deceptive I was excited when I seen your video title sadly I had my time wasted because you let your fandom get in the way of doing proper review and testing along with probly lacking the knowledge and equipment for doing those test, this whole review comparison is a wash you destroyed it
@My3DPrints-ve8zl My goal here, because there are so many variables that could impact a print, was to stick tot he default for a direct comparison. Its far from ideal, but the goal was to give a different perspective. But I take your point.
There is one reason to buy PETG-CF. It has a matte finish and hides layer lines. I use it when I need something to look good and when matte PLA would get too hot and deform. PETG-CF makes the nicest looking parts.
@rsilvers129 For PLA & PETG it is only for looks and some very minor property changes, but really only for looks as you point out. 10% CF power added to PLA is not going to have a major impact on any other properties.
@SirTubeALotMore fibers are tiny strings. But a lot of the filaments (PLA & PETG) use powder rather than fibers because its only really for looks rather then major property improvements.
I've seen other maintenance videos but you explain why you should do it and what can happen. That's the gold. You also share your experiences and add some extra tips. 👍 While many race through the subject attacking you with a more aggresive tonal volume , you take your time in a calm irish voice. Here for it. Don't copy other RU-vidrs, do your thing. May I suggest a future video of belt maintenance, belt tension and checking if your gantry is off?
Brilliant! My X-1 has just refused to print. After removing the filament a green dot still showed on the control screen which I gather means there is still filament detected in the extruder. There is no other video that makes the process for unclogging the extruder look so easy. Thanks a million for making this video.
I used to get the failed to retract error quite regularly when I first got my X1 Carbon and AMS but could never see any physical reason, but then one day it just stopped happening, I was using Bambu and Polyterra filaments in the AMS, by the way I am pretty sure that Bambu filament is exactly the same as Polymaker filament but a bit less expensive, once my Bambu filaments are finished I will respool my Polymaker filaments onto the Bambu spools, I also had issues with roll ends snapping inside the PTFE tubes, I am thinking of making some spools with fatter middles so the radius of the bent filament from the roll ends are not so tight.
Those measurements on your cube. Shouldn’t that be done at the tip of the caliper? Either way. I think most folks get the same measurements give or take as you. If I measure you you measured. My cube is 19.95x19.96x20.04 I recall reading that any tolerance less than 0.15 is considered good.
@alecubudulecu risk of measuring with the tip if the calipers is that you would not be flush and get off axis measurement. But after doing some maintenance, changing out the head I got much better numbers. But I agree, unless your doing high precision prints it doesn't matter.
@@T8Maker makes sense.. thank you for explaining. now that I think of it... based on what you just said... it shouldn't matter.... plus if I do it how you showed, I get flush. if I put the item flat where you did... and zero it there... shouldn't matter as THAT becomes the new measuring zero . thanks!
0700 8003 193817- do you have any information for this error code? The light on the AMS slot is blinking red, and I can’t move the element backwards or forwards. It’s like stuck solid. any suggestions? I can’t find any help on RU-vid for this particular error message
I had this issue although I cant remember the error code, I fixed it by turning of the printer and leaving it for 5 minutes, I was able to push the filament forward slightly with the power off and then when I turned back on all was good and I was able to unload the filament using the unload command.
@italiano0317 The .6mm is recommended, but I did all the prints with .4mm, it depends on the size of the fibers in the filament. Thank you for the feedback.
You can certainly use compressed cardboard spools in your ams without these rings. I believe Bambu is referring to corrugated cardboard spools. I use Polyterra corrugated spools everyday for a business that requires rapid part production 5 days a week. Great video btw.
@grayfaux_ Thanks. Do you have any issues with dust from the cardboard? Honestly I haven't tried it because I wanted to avoid dust caused by the friction. But I would prefer to use cardboard to reduce plastic waste, and I could just hover out the AMS if it caused dust.
@T8Maker No, I haven't had any dust issues. Very little dust if any comes off a "good" spool. I suppose you could use a quick puff of compressed air between spools as an extra precaution.
@marcosscriven Thanks for the feedback, I have a noisy server rack in the same room, and I was using the music to cover it over. Not a great idea, so I went out and bought a better mic and a 32bit float audio recorder to allow me more room to clean the audio if needed. So shouldn't need background music in future videos. Its all about learning and trying to improve.
Thanks for this video. Very clean shots and well explained. I was able to find a piece of of TPU filament stuck in my extruder gears. (Not sure if that’s exactly what it would be called) was able to get it out and all is well now :)
Sadly I can only attest to the bad results with eSun PA-CF. I have now wasted half a spool of it and a week of time and still can’t print anything with it nicely. No matter how much I dry it and how many calibration test I perform with it, it just doesn’t want to work (or you drastically lower your expectations). My 7 years of 3d printing experience don’t seem to be enough.
@maximilianlindner In additional tests to get anything decent out of it, 12 hours at 50c (recommended 70c) gave me ok prints. But not sure how useful the material is over standard Nylon.
@@T8Maker I dried it for over 24h @ 70°C in my Sunlu S2 before printing (and during). I ordered some other brand PA+CF filaments to compare. Maybe the mistake is on my side
@maximilianlindner Unlike a mistake on your side, but have you checked the actual temp in your S2. I have one and it never gets above 45c inside, also it is not circulating the air. But I may have a bad one, your may be better. Most of these driers never get above 50c. The one I have used in my testing was the EIBOS 3D Filament Dryer Series X which has a fan but also never goes above 55c when I measured it internally, but it does have a fan and circulates the air which should remove the moisture filled air.
@@T8Maker That is very good advice. I will check that 👍🏻 Update: After 14h @ 70°C my digital thermometer indeed showed only 63-64°C, while the dryer display showed 70°C. From what I know 70°C is already very low for PA, but the actual 63-64°C is just not enough. I took the spool out of the S2 and put it in the baking oven at 90°C. Old school, but whatever works 👍🏻. I’d be happy to invest in a better dryer if that was indeed the mistake.
@maximilianlindner Wow, you have been busy. There is diminishing returns on dryers, by the time you pay for the dryer and the electricity it uses (every time you want to print), the difference between high end CF filament and the cheaper stuff like the eSun, it just doesn't make sense to save on the filament. At that point just buy better quality filament. The Bambu Lab worked out well dried in the Sunlu S2 for only 8 hours, even though it never hits temp. I also recently used a Qidi role of Nylon CF and I printed on my prusa directly from packing without drying and got a great print ( I was being lazy).
@Steve-es3fc Noted, I actually cut out nearly two hours of video, but agreed, it should be a 10 minute video max. More work to do on that. thanks for the feedback.
@viduraherath4008 I dont have access to an XL, but I have upgraded my MK3S+ to an MK4 and print quality between both printers depends on the filament and print. I find sometimes the MK4 is better and more accurate, and sometimes the X1 will do a better print. I am waiting on the MMU to arrive and maybe I will do a video with some comparison prints when it does.
I got a blockage in my X1 Carbon and at first thought it was a nozzle blockage and so I removed the nozzle but it turned out to be a very small piece of filament that had broken off inside the Bowden tube, I tried to replace the nozzle but it wont push back up into the extruder, I haven't removed the extruder yet, what could stop the nozzle from pushing up into the extruder besides filament? I used an Allen key to feel around in the nozzle aperture and there doesn't seem to be anything protruding into the aperture.
@AndrewAHayes sorry for the late response, I assume you have found a solution, but in any case, if I understand you correctly you removed the nozzle but left the extruder in the print head? Nothing should block the nozzle going back in, but you should remove the extruder, it pretty easy to remove and put back in.
@@T8Maker Yes it was also a piece of broken filament in the extruder, my fault as I put an old roll in the AMS with only about 10m left, I have loads of these roll ends but in future I will just use them on my Ender 5 Plus machines as broken filament is much easier to remove than the Bambu is.
Why no one mentions the z belt tensioning is a msitery…I mean it’s easy to tension and it’s a part of the printer that’s need maintenance too. Anyway thanks for this vid very helpful.
@valentinleuci yes belt tension can make a huge difference, plus it prolongs the life of the belts keeping them at the right tension. Thanks for the feedback, and for watching.
I tend to use nothing but high-speed filament. That is because we do a lot of prototyping and usually have about 4 or 5 machines running at a time, and the price is really not that much more than regular filament. I really think that all machines and all filaments should be high-speed compatible and get rid of all the old-fashioned printers to move the industry forward.
@qwertyzxaszc6323 I would agree except for one thing, for those starting out who cannot afford to swap machines, plus waste, there is a lot of waste in 3D printing, and junking old machines is more waste. That said there are a lot of great value high speed printers now.
The truth about carbon fiber in fdm filaments is that it is a ridiculous useless gimmicks for consumer grade printers.. These are FDM printers for gods sakes. There is nothing, and i mean absolutely NOTHING significant to be gained by adding carbon fiber to filament today other than headaches, wasted money, time and wear and tear on your machines. FDM priters are AMAZING and are great for fast prototyping and light wear parts. Anything that reaquires more durable materials requires a diffrent process. Period. Full stop. End of story. That's the reality folks
False. It hides layer lines and makes the parts look better. Anyone who makes product samples or sells parts cares about the surface finish. Also it reduces warping during printing, and some of us need to make dimensionally accurate parts.
It's been demonstrated through empirical, scientific, peer reviewed studies that the addition of chopped carbon fiber, glass fiber, or kevlar fiber increases strength, modifies dielectric properties, improves heat deflection, etc, etc.
I was expecting an asinine comment like this. There are absolutely benefits to having chopped fiber in your filament. Specifically petg. Pla -CF is silly unless you want the look. It adds rigidity, less or no warping at all, dimensional accuracy, bending strength in the xy, and a fantastic finish with no lines visible. I have printed and tuned petgcf across thousands of parts and at least 5 different brands and colors and am now working with asacf and getting the same great results. My parts are used on job sites under rough conditions all the time. And I am currently releasing them to the professionals I designed them for next month. Petgcf and any fiber infused filament requires more effort to tune right. You also have to slice differently. You need different offsets as well as it's very sticky. They also soak up moisture like a sponge in a bath. Not all brands are created equal and some are charging more than their filament is worth. If you have a matte finish on a petgcf part then you have not tuned the profile FOR THE PART correctly. You cannot use a Bambu profile and think it will work the same even with their filament for every kind of geometry. I can say this from experience. Your part should have a uniform sheen to it. If doesn't then you need to adjust temps, fan speed and fan-ramping logic. And lastly petgcf and perhaps other CF materials don't do well with very tiny geometries like long thin single wall lines coming off of a sharp turn. Your results are only as good as your design and your slicing. Don't blame the filament. I am more than happy to help solve your CF woes.
I print lasertag guns and I gave samples of pla, petg and pla cf ones to my cousins to take them outside and feel test them, pla returned broken, petg was bent and only pla cf survived
Was recommended this video by a friend. Very nice overview of the multiple print types and methods showing the weaknesses of the materials and such. Much appreciated brother!
Hi my AMS constantly blinking red when connected to Bambu X1 carbon as I insert filament in one slot it tries to pull and after sometime it rejects( retracts ) the filament from the AMS unit and this happens with all the 4 slots. Please suggest me a fix. Thank you
@beyond_desi7719 Hi, could be some filament stuck somewhere in the tubing, either in the AMS, the Filament hub at the back, or between the filament hub and the print head. You can watch it go through the tubes to see how far it gets. I had an issue last week and I removed all the tube and couldn't find anything. Then I gave up and decided to remove my Hydra AMS mod and go back to the original. When I started removing the tubing inside the AMS, out fell a small piece of filament that was stuck in the feeder at the back of the AMS under the tray. So checking how far it goes is where I would start. Second thing you could look at is, are the reels getting jammed, not rotating. If so, is it the right size to fit the AMS slots, are all the rollers in place or have any of them poped out of their slot and are skipping. But from your description it sounds most like a jam somewhere, or a faulty feeder motor or hub. But rule out the jam first. Let me know how you get on.
Hi thanks for your reply… when I put the filament it pulls it and push it backs also all the sensors blinking red. Secondly I can’t see any filament going through the tube please advise
@beyond_desi7719 if all 4 feeders in the AMS are blinking red, that is specifically a communication error between the AMS and the printer where the AMS is getting power but not connecting to the Printer computer. You can trying disconnecting and reconnecting the data/power cable from the back of the AMS and see if its fixes it, you could also try plugging it into the second slot on the AMS. If that doesn't fix it, I strongly recommend opening a ticket with Bambu Lab because its possible you have a faulty AMS or Feeder Hub and to ensure you don't void your warranty, you want to follow their instructions on any tests/fixes in case you break something.
Good vid. I had to do this cause the printer thinks it has a clogged nozzle, which it does, but it keeps getting stuck on it. The error message that is.
@Pablo668 What filament are you using? I have had issues with silk PLA from certain brands clogging in both my printers. My guess is temps are wrong, but cant test it because it keeps clogging.
@@T8Maker I was using the Carbon Fibre PLA filament that came with the printer. I've printed a few things using that filament since then, it's been ok. The only way I could find out of the error messages was to restart the printer, several times.
@Pablo668 I assume the error was some feeding or retraction error? Maybe there was already some clog in the print head, residue from other filaments, that cleared out after using the filament for a bit, its pretty abrasive. If you were still having the issue and if you had a spare head I would recommend swapping it out to see if you got the same issue. But in general, the CF filament are recommended with a 0.6mm nozzle rather then the 0.4 due to the fibers. That said I have printed with all of BL CF filaments and never had a clogging issue, I have also use several other brands and they all print fine with 0.4mm. Hopefully the issue is solved for you.
@ANHARPMP I am not aware of anyone selling it, but you can 3D Print it, or use an online 3D Printing service to print it for you. Models are in the description, but added them here for you if you want them. I cannot sell them because its not my model, but I think its a really nice design. Case: by TruTech @ Printables: www.printables.com/model/204882-flipper-zero-case Insert for Wifi Dev Board: by coolantmoment @ Printables: www.printables.com/model/345794-flipper-zero-wifi-devboard-cutout Wifi Dev board Case/Cover: by fivesixzero @ Printables: www.printables.com/model/179910-case-for-flipper-zero-wi-fi-module-v1
My AMS isn’t sensing that there is filament in the A2 slot, I don’t know how to fix it. I’ve tried taking the filament out and re-entering it, it didn’t help. I have a p1p
@vanessasimms2399 You might have a faulty filament sensor, you can get a replacement AMS Feeding Funnel for slot 2 which has the filament sensor, its under 10 euro. Or you can try a whole AMS First Stage Feeder which is about 30 euro. But no certainty it will fix it. I would recommend opening a ticket with Bambu Lab support.
Nice video I'm yet to try eSun maybe I will give it a try after the creality hyper pla. Only problem I have is you say default 300mm/s but thats very vague, like which parts of the benchy were printing at that speed? normally that would be internal but external walls dip to say half that so the print quality will be the same for all parts It is only time you would be saving over print quality or am I over thinking that?
@xXIamJAEXx Yes you are correct, its necessary to maintain quality. Honestly, unless your getting blockages or issues with flow, I wouldn't say its necessary. Anyway here are my settings which are based on eSun's recomendations. First layer： 50mm/s First Layer infill： 50mm/s Outer wall： 250mm/s Inner wall： 300mm/s Sparse infill： 300mm/s Internal solid infill： 250mm/s Top surface： 200mm/s Slow down for overhangs：ON Overhang speed： default (50mm/s in my tests) Bridge： 50mm/s Gap infill： 250mm/s
