I am an amateur machinist and experimenter in Southern California. I have been taking things apart, fixing them, “enhancing” them, and putting them back together for over 40 years. Most of the time they still work when I am done, often better (for me at least) then when I started.
I just started machining the base plinth for this engine today and was wondering how to align the standard. I will definitely be making a jig like yours!
What mill cutter did you use for the bearing recess and how well does it match the bearing material provided? Still trying to decide if I order the castings as it ends up being $200 to get to me in the US.
Thank You! My vacuum works so much better now!! Have you worked on the Dyson cordless V7? My shuts off after a 10-30 secs even on a full charge. Typically when using max suction.
he had round stock, why not put it in the bearing saddles and center find from that? unmachined edges of castings aren't good to go by. they are just ballpark, can be 8 or even 10 thou off
If the bottom isn’t rocking on the surface plate, I wouldn’t even touch it. You just milled the top with the bottom clamped to the table. If those two surfaces aren’t parallel there is something wrong with your machine.
just wishing I could order directly from Stuart and receive an unmolested casting kit. customs in NY port are pretty rough on these, I've ordered 2 kits and both were fully opened, loose parts just jumbling around amongst the peanuts. some tiny brass flat bar I thought missing was wedged in a seam inside the box. my advice is just buy the soleplate and cylinder castings from Stuart and source everything else locally... or move to the UK hahaha looking forward to seeing your build!
Purchased such a package years ago. Didn't have time for that. But I will definitely get started with this instruction film. Thank you. It's always nice for a beginner when I actually see it
Don't feel like a slacker because you put the kit away for a couple of years. I bought the Stuart 10V so my son and I could build it together(he was 6 years old at the time) He is now 37 and the kit is still waiting for me to get busy with it.
Ron: I am about to give up trying to do whole build on lathe only. All the videos use mill extensively. Which mill do you own in case I decide to bite the bullet?
Having a mill sure makes building this little engine easier. I no longer have the book that would show you how to machine this engine entirely on a small lathe. The notched hold down you used was the method shown. It is amazing these casting have been available for so long. Nice work and video.👍
I found that the drawings were not complete in that I had to figure out some dimensions on the piston rod and valve rod. I am a draftsman as well, and I simply do not like the way they have done the DWGs. THey leave out too much standard information. Naturally, I redrew everything on a CAD program making additions and a few small changes. One of the big problems I had is the British "BA" system which in the USA, we don't have those sizes of taps and dies. So I changed all that to American sizes. God, that standard was a trip to machine. I'd like to see how other peeps did that.
Thanks Ron. I've watched other videos that show how to disassemble the cyclone ( I definitely needed that) but every time a video addressed the HEPA filter they glossed over it without even showing how it's done. You've done us a great service filling in that gap.
Big smashup in the shop. That steam cylinder got loose at 1500 rpm and hit him square in the forehead. He's been in hospital ever since, but can blink his eyes for yes and no and is starting to recognize faces again. The RU-vid videos are over...he probably doesn't even remember posting these. So sad...
Wonder if the report of him getting injured is correct? I hope not but see no currect video. Sorry if he can no longer make video as I like his 10V video series start..🤕🥲
Great video with good detail. My only question is regarding the belt you ordered. From my research, I found there are two different belts available for the DC17. The one you used (part #911710-02) is 8mm and is for the DC17 with a clutch. The one we use (part #911710-01) is 10mm and is for the non-clutch DC17. Our DC17 is identical to yours. If your DC17 is for all floor types, then it is non-clutched. If it is for carpets only, then it is the clutch version.
A little advice. You took the time to use a center drill then the correct tapping drill. At that point you should have tapped that hole before you moved the table. That will assure a perpindicular thread properly centered in the bore. No ammount of eyeballing with a square can acheive that. You will find that tapping will go easier and less of a chance of breaking a small tap. My unsolicited 2 cent's worth.
G'day Ron I have found your explanation on how to build the 10V very good, you are explaining it very well and it's easy to follow thank you for filming the building of this kind regards John Tasmania Australia
