I rebuild dirtbikes. Mainly 2 Strokes but I'll build a four stroke too. I’ve always loved dirt bikes, but I’ve never rebuilt them until recent. I’ve really enjoyed it, it keeps my hands and mind busy. I’m only flipping these bikes to eventually build a BRC 500, j/k but that’s not a bad goal.
Thanks to all of you below. You’ve helped me with sharing your skills or giving me motivation
I know the 98-2000 are the same, they definitely made changes in 2001 so I’d make sure before you purchase anything. I know when I was looking for a replacement crank I found it was more cost effective to rebuild it.
It will run, you’re just risking damaging your cylinder at the exhaust bridge. Pistons are cheaper than cylinders. You should do it. Even if you’re not racing, these engines are made to run best at high RPMs. Running a two stroke below the power band just gums up the power valves.
I asked u if u sold it on another video of yours ha so ignore that 😊,,i just bought one of these,,same year and all the guy put a new piston and clutch in the thang flat rips
I traded it for another project bike. I should be making content on that soon. To answer your other question. No. I feel, it’s way more valuable than I will ever get for it, but that’s not to goal. The goal is to enjoy learning new skills while making machines work again….. and hopefully the projects will pay for themselves 🤞🏽🤞🏽👌🏽
Aye I got the same problem I got a 2006 rmz 2006 I got it stuck in 4th going home now when I put it in 1st it get stuck Do you think I should just get Springs and couch cover
I think you are using engine oil and it should have 10w40 motorcyle gear oil that is designed for wet clutches should say it on the bottle the oil u showed in the video was engine oil and thats not goin to work in a transmission
My 2019 Suzuki V Strom DL 250 clutch seems to be sticking as well. I have changed the oil but sometimes after 15 minutes of writing it just gives very difficult shift and I believe the fiction place are just too sticky. I might just have to open them up and clean them out.
@@Tony2Strokes So I'll open up the clutch on my bike and it may be that either I will have to clean out the Cork based material or just get new friction plates In addition to this I will be slightly sanding down the steel plates give them a good clean and soak everything in new oil for a couple of nights
I love 90's era moto bikes. I have a 1999 rm125 and it still has that classic style but updated/modified some parts to look and feel slightly more modern.
The new EBC clutch plates made the biggest difference…. BUT if you watch until the end of the video, I’ve come to the conclusion that this is normal on multiple models of Suzuki dirtbikes. Even with the New EBC friction disks, I have to give it a LITTLE RPMs on a cold start when going into 1st. Once it’s hot=no problem
I’m a little lean, but that’s because I deleted the airbox. The book says it’s not adjustable 🤷🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️. But I got a rebuild kit for the xr250r and came with an adjustable screw. Good luck.
@Tony2Strokes try raising the clip (which would drop the needle). The circuits overlap. So changing the needle position would also effect low end. I had the same problem with my 92 RM125 with mikuni tm 35mm. I dropped the needle one clip....now she rips pretty good. Although a smaller main jet is what mine really needs but it worked until I get one. I think yours could benefit from a smaller pilot.
@@brainstain22 thanks Brian, I actually had it on the second position but put it back to 3 when changing jets. But I think you’re right. I’ll move it back. Thanks again.
@Tony2Strokes anytime bud....I've been following your build. I just picked up a 2000 rm125 that the top end blew on. Bottom end seems fine. Also just picked up a 2002 RM125 that runs great but the crank bearings are making a slight roaring sound....so I ordered pro x gasket kit and some pro x crank bearings. Wish me luck...lol.
@@brainstain22 very nice! Good luck. From what I’ve heard, these rm125’s like running lean and go through top ends quickly. I wonder if anyone makes a two ring piston for these 🤔
What is your mixture for your arm 125 2000 because I have one of those and I don’t know the right make sure for my bike, so can you tell me what how much do you mix your bike with?
that bike is way too rich on the bottom end. check your air screw is 1.5 out and if it and the bike still sounds terrible like that you need to go down on the pilot jet
I’m fighting that issue right now!! I think it may be from the power jet. The yamaha’s have the same power jet and I’ve heard of folks going down to a #40 on the power jet. Do you know what RPM activates the power jet?
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FRL4RPNNOuw.htmlsi=NohBNBmMBFjJYa2x I changed my jets, what do you think is sounds like now? First ride is before I changed the jets.
Hello I have a question I have a 1995 RM125 and the clutch won’t disengage and the cable seems to be fine and the clutch basket isn’t ribbed do you have any ideas?
Yes watch this video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YSPxwBQuwZQ.htmlsi=Ao_ZW_p-xfHg5vGM You can try all of the things I did. Ultimately once you cross off things like cable adjustments ect…. You can try the EBC clutch friction plates. Let me know how it goes.
Is there any way you could show how the other side of the exhaust valve goes together? I took my wife’s bike in to get re sleeved and they took it apart and never put it back together. The side where the little arm comes out of the case and connects to the power valve.
I think it’s in this video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-a8ccEt6p_7Q.htmlsi=Az2FpHHk8ZslTRT7 The top end assembly video. Let me know if it’s not. I did have some trouble with it.
There is nothing normal about that. You pull in the clutch and it should feel like neutral. Just like any vehicle that has a clutch. Mind you I’m having the same problem with mine. I was hoping some video is gonna show the fox
I was hoping the same….. I will say, after replacing the clutch with EBC friction plates, this has made the most improvement. Just rev it up….. a little……before you going into first. Once it breaks free, you’re good to go👌🏽. And it totally can be “normal “ if engineers were a bit short on the measurements. It happens to all makes and models. Yamaha’s kick shafts are weak. Honda’s …. (I’m sure they have something)😂. Thanks for the comment, If you do find a solution please share.
Last comment big dog! I have the same carb on my ktm 200 it’s the Keihin Pwk 38, have you cleaned the carb and checked for proper float valve operation. I took my carb apart 3 times before I actually caught the issue with mine I got some great videos saved for our specific carb hard to find when you search….if you want to dial in on it. No disrespect. You obviously are very knowledgeable. Also sounds like a vaccum leak when the rpm’s go way up on start up like that. Other than that I’d buy it. Fix the jetting (clean every cranny & check the float level for proper operation) remove float and check if the float valve is binding . Sounds like you got the right jets but something else is wrong inside that carb. Once you figure that out it will sell itself
Thanks for the insight. You’re obviously playing close attention to detail. So yeah I had to adjust to float height to get it to idle. It was fine as long as you’re running hard but at low RPM it was flooding. It is jetted a little rich but I’d rather that than too lean… it’s barely broken in ya know.
If you can’t crack it free with a pair of vise grips then try heating them with a torch and using vise grips. Then try a easy-out drill bit. Worse case, you’ll have to drill out and re-Tap. Good luck
Thanks. My plan is to sell this 125 and get a RM250 and do the same restoration. I’ve got an XR250L on the stand right now. Going full custom built on this one.
On the power valve is there some range in what i can turn the knob or i just turn it backwards till i shouldn´t feel resistence in the spring? i recently bought rm125 and i found out that it isn´t in correct position :/ thanks for help