For someone like me who has no idea on how to do any electrical wiring this is an awesome video. Thanks for showing in detail the whole process of wiring the relay and horn using the horn switch on the bike.👍
This comment is confusing and incorrect. For the V Star 650, the marks are for the rear and front cylinders. From the manual: For rear cylinder ("T|" mark) For front cylinder ("|" mark) The process that Motorcycle Manthony shows in this video is exactly right and I really appreciate the time and details he put in this video for us! As long as I'm sharing info from the manual, these are the clearances for intake and exhaust valves. Valve clearance (cold): Intake valve: 0.07 - 0.12mm (0.003 - 0.005 in) Exhaust valve: 0.12 -0.17 mm (0.005 - 0.007 in) For those of you wondering which are the intake and which are the exhaust valves, just look at where your exhaust pipes come out of the cylinders and those will be your exhaust valves. The two valves in the center, right under the carburetors are the intake valves. It's obvious, but it took me far too long to realize that.😊
Best install video on the channel Thanks very helpful unlike the other videos that show the old horn sound test and show the new horn sound test WHOOOOhoooo
Good video. I agree with basically everything here. Some suggestions - use quality insulted spade connectors specific to that application and if you are working with a CANBUS bike, use a diode protected relay. I always try to avoid connections directly to the battery, instead tie into the hot side of the starter relay for the #30 fused lead, (-) lead from the horn is grounded to the main frame.
Hi I did a simple Google search of V star and cylinder head. I know it's been a while but I've got this idea bouncing around in my head that I can't seem to get rid of? What about swapping cylinders heads so that exhaust exit in the middle to create a V mounted turbo and then twin injection and throttle bodies (or possible large single with plenum?)
Dude! I did this with a tube filled with AT fluid and rev'd to 4,500 and sync'd my R1200GSA there. That's where the engine spends most of it's time and where your hands and fingers will go numb if not sync'd. You can fine tune idle using other methods but you spent way too much time on the idle sync' and not cruising RPM where it matters. Consider remaking this but synchronizing at cruise RPM.
Thanks for this. I balanced just like you did, but I lost about 50% of my power. Valves are recently set to spec and carbs are clean. Any idea what I did wrong?
I used to use an oil filled manometer that I made around a slat of wood. Worked okay but I was a pain if the manometer fell over. I then made a twin gauge panel. I really like that.
