Rev the motorcycle to around 4k rpm and sync' there or a reasonable cruising RPM. Syncing at idle isn't relevant as the engine spends most of it's time at cruising RPM's.
I used to use an oil filled manometer that I made around a slat of wood. Worked okay but I was a pain if the manometer fell over. I then made a twin gauge panel. I really like that.
That was a great demonstrative video. The restrictor valves could use a little more demonstration. I don't know how you did that. It seems to be a key feature of how you get an accurate reading.
Hi can yo answer this good question After Sync the carburetors. Can you connect the 2 Vacuum hose together if and once the AIS is disabled and not being used?
After Sync the carburetors. Can you connect the 2 Vacume hose together if and once the AIS is disabled and not being used. What difference will it make once they are connected? Reason I ask is that, I seen folks on RU-vid connected them. Just curious and need some inputs. Thanks
Dude! I did this with a tube filled with AT fluid and rev'd to 4,500 and sync'd my R1200GSA there. That's where the engine spends most of it's time and where your hands and fingers will go numb if not sync'd. You can fine tune idle using other methods but you spent way too much time on the idle sync' and not cruising RPM where it matters. Consider remaking this but synchronizing at cruise RPM.
Hello! Looking at buying this tool aswell. Did you need to buy 6mm adapters? I saw something about that in the product description! Let me know! Thanks!
Thanks for this. I balanced just like you did, but I lost about 50% of my power. Valves are recently set to spec and carbs are clean. Any idea what I did wrong?
@@motorcyclemanthony1552 what kind of valve? I have a set of similar gauges and it came with a lot of fittings and adapters but no valve. Mine also has the needle just go crazy while the bike idles and the only way they behave is when revving the engine up. I think you mean something like a check valve to prevent reverse airflow?
Hi if I sync the carbs at idle the bike buzzes at 100-120kmh. If I tweak the screw I can get it to not buzz at 100-120khm, but them the idle is way different. Any ideas ? It’s more important not yo buzz at highway speed.
Rev the motorcycle to around 4k rpm and sync' there or a reasonable cruising RPM. Syncing at idle isn't relevant as the engine spends most of it's time at cruising RPM's.
@@mattcero1 I ended up connecting two vacuum gauges with the adjustable valve to the top of the fuel tank. So I can check it at all speeds while riding around to make them even. It’s perfect now. Ignored idle settings.
Shouldn't needles be in green position (normal position) if everything is ok with the carbs and engine? Normal readings should be 17-21 inHg as far as I know but here you have around 11. I have just bought these kind of gauges but I still didn't try them on my bike.
You want to ignore where they're pointing as far as the "normal part" . This is just to see that the vaccume is the same and moves up and back to where you set it after your blip the throttle.
@@yakmalxc Rev the motorcycle to around 4k rpm and sync' there or a reasonable cruising RPM. Syncing at idle isn't relevant as the engine spends most of it's time at cruising RPM's.
That red is if you were using this for a car carburetor. The readings are different on a motorcycle. All that matters for the purpose of a motorcycle is that the 2 needles are in the same place.
