If you have a passion for extreme sports but live in the real world with jobs, social responsibilities and limited time and budget for doing what you really love then you know what the WannaBes are. You're one of us!
Good video, i will add that the anti rattle plates and clips inside the caliper need attention paid to them tou didn't explain what they do or where they are located in the caliper and what thier function is, if the clips and anti rattle plates are too loose the pads knock around in service
Very helpful, quality video. Just so some of you know, the small KTM bike I'm working on actually has typical threads on the crankshaft end bolt, not left-handed threads.
this is a completely fabricated problem not only that it makes the bike sound like its going to explode. makes you wonder if they did this on purpose. my 1984 atc 350X damper springs still work as good as the day they where installed. this is such bs its not even funny. completely unnecessary.
Hey, I just purchased a 2024 ktm xc-w. When I push in the cold start button, let it idle for a minute, then blip the throttle the cold start button doesn't pop back out. I have to manually pull it back out. Is that normal?
This is one of many great videos by you guys, and I'm also a big fan of busting out parts on a 3D printer for everything. However, I have a very mundane question, which is certainly not worth you while replying to, but I'll ask anyway. You mention you're using feeler gauges with thin end, and a thicker base to measure the range. I've spent days searching on Amazon and all through the usual suspects on ThumperTalk and ADV etc, and I cannot of the life of me find out where to get a set. Tapered gauged just get me ones with a tapered shape, NOT a tapered thickness. Where do you get these magical gauges from? Cheers.
Do you know which front you were running, I think there is a normal and a hard (as well as the soft). Part numbers are M1744800 and 2477600 for 90/90-21. I think the latter is newer. I found them both in one shop and the 600 is definitely a harder rubber/stiffer carcass. Soft is a different tyre again. Thanks for any help.
This is exactly what my bike is doing!!! Ooo im soo hoping this does the trick how do i go about messing with the red screw can i go all the way in then back out some and go from there?? Wich way makes idle higher and lower clockwise speaking lol
Wait who is wrong here... Hard compound tires are for softer terrain and softer compound fot harder terrain right? Thats what comes up if you google it and also on metzeler website.
I'm interested to install this on my bike, but the main reason is because I messed up my left hand working in construction... my ring finger was amputated and my middle finger was reattached at the hospital. I hit all four fingers with a skill saw, I'm really lucky today that I'm still able of clutching the bike. But I can't ride it because, the clutch is too stiff and it hurts my hand. That's why I'm looking for alternative options of upgrading the clutch lever. Please let me know if you have more information on how to do so. I would really appreciate it.
Have you sold many of these? They really look terrible if there isn't a go pro on them. My helmet is on the way in the mail, but I don't think I could put that mount on it and spoil the looks of such an expensive lid...
I got a SmartCarb SC2 for my 2006 RM85L that I made into a supermoto. The stock carb was nasty and leaky and I hate messing with carbs, so I went overkill and got the best of the best. I absolutely love my SC2, and after learning how it works, I'll never own anything else for a 2 stroke dirt bike. It works extremely well, and it is engineered in many genius ways. The pear-shaped venturi to optimize the metering rod, the ball bearings to block fuel to the bowl when tipped too far, the ease of adjustability, the ease of install, everything is a home run. Really nice people work at SmartCarb as well, and they 100% back their work good or bad. Couldn't ask for anything better
Don’t forget, TPI/TBI was not brought upon 2 stroke dirt bikes with performance in mind, it was brought on to comply with emissions…. Which is why all the new injected two strokes are chasing that “carb” feel…. Carb 2 strokes perform better….
Setting idle to spec actually solves near-all flameout and stalling issues; power is smoother at low settings too. Makes a lot of noise when it feels like it should be quieter (at idle) but these bikes are all about riding, not idling.
I’ve had 3 ‘big bore’ Kato dirtbikes now: 2 x Aussie 500 exc (2015, 2020 - Aussie versions aren’t corked up like USA) and 450 SXF (2018). I’ve given up with regular valve gap checks as they don’t move. Super reliable bikes. The old ‘hur hur KTM means <whatever>’ hasn’t been relevant for well over a decade. They just Keep Tech Moving - it’s only KTM that’s driven dirt bike development over the last decade. The Japanese brands only do the bare minimum and basically slowly introduce things that KTM did ages ago and call them ‘new’. The only own goal by KTM has been forks: they keep trying new ideas but they’re not always better.
GDI was designed to run on the two stroke outboard motors, and now it is on almost all four strokes cars and vehicles. Higher power has meant fuel accumulation in the engine oil and troublesome carbon deposits inside intake runners and valves and heavy piston ring fouling. Mazda hybrid cars now have successfully figured out their wankle likes GDI injection, mostly four stroke engines were never designed to be absorbers of it's shortcomings.
Damn 😅 I must’ve taken my carburetor off and cleaned it about 3 times before i noticed a crack on the manifold! My bike is idling really high and it won’t run right, even left me stranded the other day and I had to push her home, so I guess it’s time to get a new manifold!
Great Video! Is the decompression valve closed at TDC or does it have to be manually closed? I'm getting leakage so not sure if I'm at the wrong mark on the cam gear or?
I found when running tubliss up front that you need considerably more pressure. Theory is that the 4mm tube I would otherwise use adds to sidewall stiffness. Also, if this incident didn't happen, you would have had a bigger failure given the angle of the bladder valve stem! Cant see what size motoz you run but try a Golden Tyre 216 'fatty' in a 90/100, higher profile will give you more of a rock buffer
