My channel is here to help you and your guitar play better together. I'm a guitarist, guitar tech, award-nominated guitar teacher, and ex-physicist (PhD, hence DrKev). I was raised in Dublin, Ireland, I call Buffalo, NY home, but I currently live in Paris, France.
Fantastic job my friend, now to get my days work in and head home to try to get the buzzing out of my Epiphone, once again thank you my friend, Rock on Mikey rock on.
hi , i have the opposite problem , same noise but it only happens if i play chug power chords with heavy palm muting , or touch the strings .. if i lay my hand across the strings i get the buzz for a second & then its gone until i play heavy palm muting which brings it back while im playing is there a fix to this ? ive tried different guitars etc & just use an fm3 for home recording thank you
@@3000KTM if you have a noise gate active on the FM3 that could explain why the noise disappears after a second. The noise gate is kicking in. If with the completely clean tone, no distortion, you have an obvious increase in noise when you touch the strings, that would suggest there is a grounding issue on the guitar.
@@deanallen927 great question. I think a body would be better to have a full oil finish on it, that means putting on a coat of oil, letting it dry, sanding it back and repeating five or six times to build up an actual finish. Look for how people do oil finish on gunstocks.
Great explanation, and I agree on the "small adjustments" statement. I've made some pretty extreme adjustments to my guitars and have had no issues. There was also no noticable difference after an extended period of time.
@@ezer0923 You can but for my own guitars (on the rare occasions that i do) I just tighten the trem claw screws till the bridge doesn’t move when I bend.
I suddenly have the same problem, i found out that there's green paint on my pickup selector switch, I forgot that i painted my guitar at the back green, didn't notice that the paint got inside the cover, apparently the paint was so rock hard i had to remove the wire forcefully and hours of cleaning with acetone, an hour later it's all clean, I then soldered it and then i also bought brand new guitar cables, i also checked my jack if the wires are soldered properly, i then notice the screw on my jack was loose and tightened it, and then all of a sudden my amp was at 3:00 which is loud i then stepped on my metall muff pedal, it's complete silence I did a iron maiden riff sounds really heavy, no feedback anymore or the unwanted buzz/humming sound, it's all back to normal. I honestly didn't believe when you said our bodies have electricity, but i notice when i am barefoot the humming sound comes back, but when i put on my shoes it's complete silence and can play heavy riffs no feedback, I then believed you, it's really funny it's like that episode from mr bean when he was watching tv naked 😂
big fan of pressurewounds myself. flats are indeed a great way to cool down the agressive tone of a Stingray for old-school stuff (if you can put up with the "slow n sticky" feel of traditional flats)
I don’t know if you answer questions so on the chance you do, here it is. I purchased a Gibson Les Paul some time ago. It had Plek stickers on it so I assume it was pleked. When I got it home, the fret rocker showed that most of the frets were out of whack. Is that normal for a properly pleked guitar? I expected the fret rocker to show the frets we’re level. What probably went wrong, if anything? The guitar played ok but not great. Thank you.
I just watched a video from someone who sent guitar to Sweetwater. They ruined guitar. Sent it back and still not done right. So the question is, human error or machine? Remember it w done twice! If you don’t know the person working on your guitar, you shouldn’t do it! Sweetwater probably didn’t do anything the first time, maybe tried the second time and if they had checked ( 55 point inspection) anyone could clearly see problems. They ent back to customer hoping he’d give up! Luckily he was refunded. But it doesn’t change the fact that he dealt with an online company, and they tried to screw him! Somehow, the gentleman thought they cared more about him than just selling a guitar! They don’t!
I get your points becuase you are talking to a beginer looking for a guitar to play. I am more of a senior player and guitar entusiast how wants to have something to destroy and not worry about :) I got this kit as a gift. and I love how light is the body. I didn't expect anything better. Nobody should. I use it with a old neck were I installed ok locking tunners. I have it as a very light guitar to go around the city to play in jams and practice with the band. I blocked the bridge. didnt bother painting it, cause I like the finish on it. and the slectronics are the cheapest you can get in the market, but they work and I don't have any cracking. But I have more guitars, this is just an extra shity guitar, super light, that I dont care about it at all if it falls, get lost, get stolen, etc etc
Based on my first-hand experience with a Harley Benton kit, I have to say that I don't agree at all with what you say in your video. Let me preface this by saying that I have been playing guitar for over 50 years and have owned and played many in my ita. During the pandemic period I assembled a $90 Harley Benton Telecaster kit and the result is a very good guitar. Actually I spent more because I replaced the pick uos (Loolar), the tuners (HB locking tuners) and the nut (tusq), for a total cost of $370. The neck is very good, the guitar is well tuned after a quick setup, I am really very satisfied and I recommend it to anyone who has a little manual dexterity and wants to have a unique instrument that is customised in every detail without having to spend an exaggerated amount of money.
I see the Problems that you see. I still love my kit. Maybe i had more luck with the frets. Not sharp and the guitar plays very comfortable. I got locking tuners by harley benton, fender tex mex pre wired pickguard and an abm vintage tremolo. Just the nut must be replaced now. If you do it all by yourself it is a fun Project i think and in the end its a good sounding and unique strat :) Different than the original, but still a typical strat sound.
Hey, thanks for the video and explanation of the problem. Question: what if the noise doesn't even depend on the pickup? I have it both on single coils and humbucker. (Fun fact: the bridge humbucker + the middle pickup make less noise that the humbucker itself with autosplit wiring; same with neck + middle single) I'm currently plugged into the soundcard that doesn't have a ground pin on its plug and it goes into the laptop that's connected to the mains properly having three pins, so it definitely has grounding. So I used your tip with touching different parts of the chain: I touch the soundcard's case made of metal the noise gets slightly suppressed, touching the laptop helps even more in combination with the previous action. I actually blame the audio interface not having the ground pin. BUT. When I plug in a Squier Affinity Strat this higher hiss is way lower. I'm confused a bit.
@@CharvelLloydNS it’s really hard to diagnose something like this without being in the room with it. But if the full humbucker is making more noise than split coil plus a single coil I think there’s a problem with the humbucker or the wiring. In general, I wouldn’t be looking for faults in the audio interface either. It’s possible, of course, but low probability. It may be a good idea to bring your guitars to a professional to have their wiring checked out and ensure that the cavities are correctly shielded. It may help the situation, and even if it doesn’t make a much difference to the actual noise, you’d have peace of mind that everything is done correctly and working as intended. Try asking pro musicians and music teachers in your area who they trust with their instruments and go to them.
With the Peterson, the direction of movement (clockwise v anticlockwise) tells you which direction to turn the guitar tuner key! If the pattern moves clockwise (sharp) you turn the key clockwise to flatten the string, and vice versa.
Im bougth a new cable instrument for doing an DI my acoustic guitar that have an amp on it, when im connecting to my audio interface (steinberg ur 22mkii i was gain the volume up i become buzz very loud too) but when i touche the metal on the jack it goes down when i put off my hand it goes noisess again what should i do?😢
I'm sorry but that's not the kind of thing I can diagnose over the internet, I would need to have the instrument in front of me. Contact the guitar manufacturer or the preamp manufacturer and see if they have any ideas.
Hi DrKev, thanks for a reply. I will probably buy a capo for that purpose. Even with my string saddles adjusted full down into the bridgeplate the action is still too high. It seems I may need a neck pocket shim to bring the neck up, and fret dressing. There are no bows or anything, the truss rod is set as best as it could be. Anway I will seek out a good Luthier, and hope the action can be sorted. I've done all I can with my basic skill with my guitars.
@@emilloffler1216 yes, it sounds like a shim is exactly what’s required. You can do the shim yourself. And yes, I have two capos and 99% of all their use is doing set ups. I never almost never use them when playing.
@@emilloffler1216 You need to find some way of holding the string down at the 1st fret. Ask another person to help? Make a capo with a pencil and rubber bands?
This is the most helpful video I watched in a long time. The buzz was driving me crazy, it appeared when I did not touch the bridge or the strings. I resoldered everything and even made sure the guitar is fine with a multimeter. But the buzz was still there. Then I saw this video and understood the problem. I went on installing shielding in the cavity and now it is dead silent. Thanks for sharing.
Месяц назад
1.60 mm - 2.00 mm leads to extreme fret buzz, especially if you play harder styles of music. I don't understand how you people get used to that. My high E (1st) is already above 2.00 mm.
The harder we play the higher the string action required to avoid fret buzz. That’s just basic physics; if we hit it hard enough, it will buzz. But having said that, it would be useful to have a professional make sure there are no fret that are too high or too low. Also if the high E string is buzzing at that height, I would also be making sure that the breakpoint across the top of the saddle is as clean as it should be. Good luck!
Месяц назад
@@DrKevGuitar Thanks for the reply! No, no, my high E is not buzzing. I raised the action too much because I play harder and I also cannot tolerate fret buzz in general. I mean, even the little fret buzz that does not come out from the speaker or cannot be heard on recording. However, the high E being 2 mm high causes intonation discrepancies on some frets so I'm kinda forced to lower it down. It's very hard for me to find the balance between minimum fret buzz and acceptable intonation on each fret. And by the way, my guitars are kinda mid range (LTD Arctic Metal and Schecter Damien Platinum 6.). So, all in all, when you rise the action too much, it will remove the fret buzz almost completely but there will be intonation discrepancies on some frets. Man, sometimes I hate the concept of the guitar... :D
This just saves me from tinkering with what I thought was a faulty Evertune! Turned out to be exactly this and now it plays perfectly again! Great vid, THANK YOU!
Thanks for the video! Please help. Why dose my guitar hum alot when even at 0 volume? And my other guitar doesn't hum at 0 volume most is at 10-80% volume but less at 100%? But everything is completely silence when I use battery from pedal. I do use a battery powered speaker. Im so confused I use a 1 spot power supply..
@@AhrnNilsson Hi Ahrn. One of your guitars almost certainly has a wiring problem or faulty volume pot that needs to be fixed. The other one might do also, or the one spot may be faulty, I cannot diagnose over the Internet. You need to bring them to a professional and have them checked out.
@@DrKevGuitar Hi again I have tried a lot of things new cables and power supply. It hums only on bridge pickup. So I guess there a problem somewhere in that circuit the neck is completely silent even with distortion...
I downloaded the neurotic Petersen Strobetuner app to my iphone. Apart from being an endlessly hyperaccurate readout, what would really help would be if the display changed to green when withing a cent of being in tune.
You can change the display speed in the app. Go left from the main screen and there is a slider near the top of the screen. I always have it turned down quite a lot.
My first pedal board tuner was a Peterson HD ive loved it ever sins and i had no second thought about the mini, ordered it on launch day, i just feel like the way Peterson shows your tuning on the display is better than ant thing els out there
@@user-yk4gd1fl4z Yes, that is “some”. Personally, the way I play, I would prefer a little more, and I generally recommend a little more, but there’s absolutely nothing wrong with what you’ve got there at all. If you have no issues and are happy with it, you are good to go. 👍🏻
Ur full of it i took a donner upgraded everything all together the total was 500 dollars and it sounds better then a 800 dollar fender soo i disagree with everything ur saying this video waste of my time
Thank you Sir. In my micro world I didn't realize folks were that misinformed. Your explanation mostly mirrors my understanding of the Plek. Although, I didn't come to that overnight. Lots of self study, and having Phil Jacoby refret and Plek over 12 guitars for me over several years chystalized and tempered my understanding of it. And also to your point, Pete Skermetta did a stainless steel refret for me without it. And his work is also awesome. Love the video, and agree with all.
Great question! 1) don't ever do anything you personally are not comfortable doing (particularly if risking damage that will require a repair). Detune if you feel the need. 2) I recall one of the Fender bass truss rod videos, they loosen the screws just as I do to bend the neck back to get access to the truss rod screw without completely removing the neck, and they state it's not necessary to detune. On that basis, it should be fine.
Thanks for the quick reply,@@DrKevGuitar ! Thought to ask as this is the first time that I'll attempt to do this, thanks to your vid! In regards to no. 2, that's true and helpful as well. Been doing that since learning how to setup my own guitars and bass, unless the truss rod access is on the heel of the neck which is a bit of a pain in the ass lol. Will try your hack on my bass asap! Thanks again for the tips!
This doesn't help at all. I already know that you're supposed to strum the strings on the upstroke. He doesn't seem to know that people struggling with strumming encounter massive resistance on the upstroke that turns the pick 90 degrees in one bar. I'm now giving up guitar after 6 months of not even being able to do the most basic skill of being able to strum!!!!!
Adam, I do mention resistance specifically in this video, and rotation of the guitar pick is covered in my "how to hold your guitar pick" video, which I included in the description. Here's the link... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CmT8TnWWNXs.html Don't stop playing, keep going! You WILL get there, it's only a matter of putting the time in trying, I promise!
What i don't understand is why you keep replying to people that this guitar is not for beginners, i think every beginner knows this.. These kits are for people who want to tinker, and don't want a expensive kit so they can experiment on it. that being said i play guitar for like 35 years, and i have owned many many guitars, including Gibson les Paul and USA Fenders and high end Ibanez guitars, and i do agree that a kit like this is not stellar, not even if you level and polish the frets, give it low action and intonate it properly, but it will play OK and light if you do that, and sound reasonable if you know what you're doing, i also fix and totally rework old broken guitars, and with some time i can make these kits into fine guitars. If you cannot, that only means that you're not skilled enough to make it play and sound OK. These modern kits are way better than most of the cheap guitars you bought back in the 70's. And saying that 3 hours of benchwork will net you 180 dollars of extra cost (cause that would cost it if you bring it to a guitar shop) is not the point of these kits. The point of these kits is to let people tinker and play around with building a guitar and slowly learn a bit how this is done. if you change the hardware on it after you finished up the wood decently you can make a pretty good guitar out of it, i can in about 10 hours of work make it into a beauty that plays well. So i think that making a vid about this is more for yourself to get content on youtube and earn some ads revenue, than to informatively educate people about the true purpose of these cheap guitar kits..They're not ment for beginners that want to have a cheap guitar, cause you can buy a cheap guitar for 75 dollar from Fazley or Harley Benton, that only needs setup that can be done in a guitar shop for 50 dollars and than you have a reasonably cheap and reasonably playing guitar. It's also pretty obvious that if you're going to be negative about these cheap kits, that you are going to be overloaded with comments that feel negative to you, cause many people do understand the true purpose of these kits, and they are going to be annoyed by your opinion. So this "They deserve to be informed and warned of the reality of these kits" comment is completely wrong, and that is not a opinion, it's a fact, it is merely your opinion, and probably based on your lack of tinker skills. The fact that you broke the tuners screws in the headstock underscribes this, you need to pre-drill the holes, the fact that they broke is a good sign, it means the wood they used is hard and strong, as it needs to be for a neck. And the screws are only ment to keep the tuners from turning, so you don't need to screw them in very tight. It all makes sense to me that you're not very technical.
Well, there is an unnecessarily long comment. Three responses: 1) I’m a very small RU-vid channel and since that video came out I have made €18 in revenue from it. Money is not a goal. 2) insisting that I’m wrong to want to inform uninformed people is insanely ridiculous. 3) 25 years professional experience as a guitarist and guitar tech and I was guitar tech for one of the largest music stores in Europe. There’s no problem with my technical skills. If you really want to bend over backwards to convince yourself that there’s something wrong with me, I’m sure you can fit in a full thousand word comment on somebody else’s channel.
I agree with @CANNIMAGINE, 100% This guy has no business posting such negativity, and discouraging comments. This doesn't just set a negative tone to these kits, but all. Guitar kits are not for learning to play on...they exist for learning to build on. Entry level. It's a kit...the work needed to make them playable, is the whole point of them being kits. Don't listen to this, individual, (to put it nicely),...If you wana learn to build..and all that's involved...any kit, is a great start. Build on....
This individual (to put it nicely) presumably thinks beginners to the world of guitars should just spend their money uniformed and suck it up if they don't get an immediately playable guitar? Or, maybe informed people are better equipped to make good purchase decisions, and that's a good thing? Should I have lied about the real faults I found and/or pretended they didn't exist? Would you have been happier if my review was falsely positive to fit with your pre-existing expectations?
You need to get over yourself there pal. You're completely missing the point of what a "KIT" is. They're what a person makes of them. And anyone else's opinion of them, could only be validated, if you're comparing guality of the parts,..not the finished build. That can only improve, as an individual, improves on their skills. Hence, what kits exist for.
