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H2 Motors in Germany has seen this same type of failures and they also have the theory that the chains are pulling up on the crank shaft hence the increased wear on the upper shell
Regarding the S85, what weight oil do you recommend before a rod bearing swap and after? stick with BMW specs or use a thinner oil? my S85 is currently around 80000 klm original bearings.everything all other common issues have been done.
If the engine is original and still running its tight clearances, then a 5w30 or 10w40 is not a bad idea, it also depends on your climate and time of year. Post bearings - 10w40 to 10w60 is good, again depending how hot/cold your climate is during use. We strongly recommend Penrite 10 Tenths race oil.
Well we are sorry for that. Not much we can do about it now though is there. We are a mechanical workshop not audio engineers. You don't have to listen to it if it annoys you enough leave this comment
@@andydufresne3635 we will hopefully get it out of the shed soon and get some video of it in action on the road. Its a very rewarding build and well worth doing.
Can you explain ecu coding that needs to be done so everything functions? As i understand only engine ecu is transferred? All the others in car remain the same?
It's an entire process. Many modules are swapped out along with extensive wiring. We offer this service in our workshop if you'd like to send us the car
@@BrintechCustoms i appreciate your answer, can you be generous enough annd point me to some good sites and forums where i can learn more, I’m just a hobbyist, but i understand if you don’t want to share any secrets. Thanks for the great swaps!
@@Shari_Tejp No secrets - its all just logic with integrating the two cars, You need to find wiring info for both cars VIN specific, and work through each module one at a time until they are online and coded with the same vehicle order.
@@BB-tb9ih Sorry your question was ambiguous. Ill clarify what you probably meant: Does the transmission cross member we supply work for a DCT? Obviously not, a GM and DCT box have different mounting points. Can it work? Yes. With a different mount, we also have DCT adapter plates for LS engine.
So the problem I am having right now is the exhaust gear is sprung pulling in (instead of pushing out like in the video) and intake gear pushes out. So to get the gauge in place I have to pull the exhaust gear out. When I let go the exhaust gear pulls back in and the plate with the 3 bolts will not rotate back and forth. It feels like it is sprung against the 3 bolts. However in the video here Tony simply presses and pull the exhaust and intake in and out without any resistance. Idk if I'm doing something wrong or not. 2007 e60 7:00
@@BrintechCustoms Yes vanos unit removed and remaining 3 bolts loosened. Intake gear pushes out then I can move the adjuster in and out rotating the bolts between the slots. The exhaust gear however is pulled in by the spring and I cannot move the adjuster in and out to rotate the 3 bolts in the slots. Instead the 3 bolts feel jammed against one end as they weren't maxed before I loosened them but sprung against one end after I loosened them and are stuck there now. We've ordered another gear (used as new is $1k and and 3 weeks from Germany) and in the pictures the used one we've ordered in pushed out instead of sucked in. So I will disassemble this one now to try to figure out what is wrong and/or different.
I conclude that Brintech must have one of the earliest vanos exhaust hub designs (circa 2005 or so) which comes with a CW wound inner coil spring. The hub’s resting position is extended. One has to apply a force to retract it, which in turn loads the spring. When the force is quickly removed, the hub “snaps” back to the extended position. This is essentially what's happening when the rotating lobes of the exhaust cam pass TDC of the hydraulic valve lifters and the cam “jumps.” The result is the “popping back” of exhaust hubs seen in the video. BMW later changed the design of the exhaust hub (circa 2007 or so) such that the inner coil spring is wound in a CCW fashion. This hub’s resting position is retracted. One has to apply force to extend the hub, which in turn loads the spring. (You will see in the service manual that BMW states NOT to remove the bridge from the timing kit after removing the hub “because the hub is under tension.”) While cranking the engine, the exhaust hub will not pull in then “pop” out as seen in the video. It retracts slightly, then remains in somewhat of a neutral position (since its natural state is the retracted position not the extended position).
I love your work on the e30 driveshafts, but I live in South Africa, and our government has ruined the rand. That means I won't be able to afford buying your stuff. I am busy turboing my m50 motor and I suppose I'm going to need good side shafts and stub axles, but I'll have to make do with botch jobs for the time being. Wish I could afford to import your stuff though. Nice work!
You know, an aluminum block M52 with a Tilton OT-ii clutch would be a nice piece to throw in here. Or, for that matter, a 5.5" Tilton clutch on that LS3, with an ATI harmonic damper and CS130D alternator.
@@yusufachmat8588 chains aswell. Yes you need cam timing tools and good knowledge of engine bearing installation procedures. It also helps to know the S65 engine
Great video and great content, i love what you guys do 👍🏽, I am in the process now of rebuilding my s85 engine, the mistake that I did was I when I tore it down, i didnt put a bolt behind the exhaust cam gear to hold the two gears, how do I do it now? I searched everywhere and couldn’t find any solution
hi buddy i have the same f30 328i ,but mine only broke the piston rings, it doesn't build up compression..do i need to take out the engine or what's your advice to fix it easy and smart???
hi buddy i have the same f30 328i ,but mine only broke the piston rings, it doesn't build up compression..do i need to take out the engine or what's your advice to fix it easy and smart???
hi buddy i have the same f30 328i ,but mine only broke the piston rings, it doesn't build up compression..do i need to take out the engine or what's your advice to fix it easy and smart???