I've worked on quite a few guns over the years doing various things but i have yet to tear into my glock for anything..this will be a big help when i do... Do you have a video on disassembling the glock upper and lower 😉😄 (slide and frame)..
I own 2 Glocks. Both are very cheaply made and I’m surprised for the $700 I spent on them they are as shitty as they are. Plastic mags, slide rails aren’t polished, the trigger is total ass, the mag release is also garbage. I don’t understand how Glocks aren’t basically at hi point level. Because they are.
I am doing Glock cuz I am basic at this, and for my first run I decided to keep the factory side texture on the left. I like the logo on it and the gen 1 pebble.
I’m really good with art and customizing things with my hands, but worried there’s no mistakes with this kind of thing and I have a really cool design idea that I don’t know if I can trust another person to do exactly like it’s in my head. But I just bought this hellcat pro and worried I’ll mess it up. Should I go for it? I did a double undercut myself and did it slow and it turned out amazing. I’m hoping I get the courage to press buy now for the solder iron in my shopping cart
@GLDNST8 my best advice is to practice on these amzn.to/3fp5JMQ You just need to first familiarize yourself with the tool and how it burns (the impression time and angle). Then, practice your pattern, judging your consistency. Don't jump to your frame until your practice patches are getting easier. Moving onto a frame only adds difficulty in the sense of the different curves and more nerves. So practice your pattern along the curves of your practice glock box in all the hard spots too. Be patient but not scared. You should be much more confident after practicing your first few days. When you first start your frame and commit. Start in a non visible hidden location like front or backstrap, allowing you some wiggle room to get used to the pattern.
Apologies if this is already asked but im new to watching you but how do you get it flat to start stippling? Like the field looks like its sanded in some way
@clearedtoland72 watch my newer video with steps A-Z. You remove the factory texture with a sanding drum. Less is more with this, you just need it flat, not deep or smooth at all.
Bravo! Thanks for sharing your experience with us. I needed a nudge to stipple one of my pistols. Your video was clear enough that I’m going to get started. Thanks, brother
Great video. Polished everything as described. And got down to 3.8 lb trigger pull as well as nice gliding slide. Before it sounded crunchy. Saved me 200.00!
What is the model number for the Flexcut tool you used in the video? The link showed a variety of models, this video is 3 years old so I hope you see this, thanks a lot! :) This is by far the best tutorial for grip stippling on YT, the result looks excellent!
The biggest benefit is once polished your parts are very easy to clean carbon off of. The second thing is very nuance but you have a smoother feel in your trigger functions. People make the mistake of thinking a polish job lowers the weight, but it's usually ¼ pound or less of a difference. Best option for trigger being lighter is a 3.5lb connector, a 4.5 trigger spring, and/or a reduced power safety plunger spring.
Great tutorial, it’s a reminder, when you buy a new Glock to polish every metal to metal component. I love doing it and it dirty parts can be wiped of with a cloth and it will look like chrome again. Years ago I used to polish my slide release, it comes out chrome looking and the pins that hold the pistol together. You can polish every metal part, even the springs.
I used this guidance for a Springfield XDM elite. It turned out fantastic. Practice on some magpul AR mags to get comfortable with the dremel and wood burner.
amzn.to/3UC53rV 👆the standard dremel with a flex shaft is the best overall value and what I use. A great starter option for the lowest price that will work fine for DIY projects is the Stylo below: amzn.to/31JwzZr
Curious about a tip that is an inward cone opposite of a pointed tip. The contact would be on the edges of tip not the tip. What about a tip like what is used on leather. Basically a spur of heated tips allowing for a uniformed pattern and quick. Like rolling a hearted wheel down the surface… curious…
Most tips for polymer are usually shallow because you can't go very deep into the polymer. Hypothetically though If you did have a tip that was an inverted cone it would essentially leave a spike imprint. Only the first 1to2 millimeters of a tip is going to interact with the polymer in terms of the depth of the tip.
That would make an interesting pattern, with the perimeter of the shape of the top design making I guess you would call a negative impression versus a positive? Square, rectangle, circle and so on…
I wouldn't say a welders skills would translate over to stippling with much help to them. This is more like an art form, takes patience, a steady hand, and an eye for detail. Stippling is more like tattooing, sculpting, or wood carving. Side note: It just hit me that you may be asking me, if I like welding? 🤣 If that's the context you meant, I have never done it before.
U think its possible, to dremel a ledge on the sct frames, where the existing support thumb stipple is already at? If u feel it u can twll its very smooth and zero ledge at all
Like many trades it can be tedious but you only have to be patient for it to come out looking high quality. You can rush and it won't look great, but you'll still get the grip enhancement benefits.
I'm glad you mentioned that. One of the most underrated benefits with polished internals is that when it comes time to clean carbon/dirt, you can wipe off almost everything with very little effort as oppose to a factory finish that likes to cake up carbon and stick almost like the metal is porous. Sometimes, when cleaning polished parts, you don't even need a solvent. On a more nuanced level, you are only going to help any friction points run smoother and more dependably. Even if your barrel locks up 1% better. It's definitely worth the easy cleaning benefits. The extractor plunger isn't as necessary, but you'd prob take the extra 30 seconds (with dremel) needed so you have all nice looking shiny parts and not leaving one out.
Wow this job came together so well. You could have titled this Trust the Process. Where you started and where ended would not be believed if I didn't see it. Great job and you earned a sub
You can take a micro fiber rag and some gun oil and get the same results, glock parts are already slick and shinny under the metal treatment they're using . Guess this makes it faster though