You fantastic star. Loved your video and importantly I will be investing in this turntable. Your mindset is why I say fantastic star. An engineer and reverse engineer is a fine skill and you demonstrate both. I am a watch maker hobbyist and the skills are similar. I have your efforts, that were successful, to thank as it takes away the mystery you must have felt as you dug deaper into this service.
Hi, thank you for the great video! With mine, the tonearm will sometimes not lift up totally at the end of the record or when I press start/stop (it will stall, half way), but with the cue button it lifts up perfectly. And whenever it fully rises at the end the tonearm, while returning, the tonearm will "take a break or two" half way, and start returning again till it reaches the tonearm rest and then it descends. Also the "repeat" function drops the tonearm outside the record. Do you think this has to do with the shaft (the issue you have shown here) or should it need a new small gear wheel(mine seems to show some minor cracks?), or something else? I would be really grateful for any help! :)
78 is good if that's what you need for your records... people should understand though that it's not good for most stylus and they should buy the right stylus/cartridge. nice job on the cue control i may have to do one soon. Good video here and thank you.
I have a Dual 522 automatic belt drive. I have a problem when I move the stop lever the arm lifts up but doesn't want to move to its off position. Then the arm just goes down and loops.
Brilliant video! I own a few turntables (Lenco L75, Technics 1210, Thorens TD150 Mk1...) but have been wanting a Dual for a while. 1229 and/or 701/721 on the top of my wish list, but found a cheap 1225 as a starter and was looking for a detailed video like this to get started on the servicing. This is really helpful, so thank you 🙂
Very nice video, my problem is in the rca cables. The right channel cut out and I cant get it back. When I flip the plugs the left speaker cuts out. Any advise on where to start would be greatly appreciated.
Just scored one of these and it's working great! only thing that's not working is the repeat function - the button does nothing at all. Do you have any idea what the issue might be?
Starlight G Recording @starlightgrecording559 Amorphous Audio*** Gerard Stroh!!! I Have the Very Same Turntable*** 30 Years Ago I went to Goodwill and I Got one for $50 Dollars and It Still Works Like A Dream!!! Bye From Gerard Stroh***
I want to thank you for the video, my technics Sl1600 arm was going all the way to the end of the record instead of the beginning. You showed me how to get to the insides and sure enough the grease on the pivot point was stuck took it apart like you showed, I cleaned and regreased everything, it now works like new. Thanks again.
After my previous post below, I asked a seller of the silicon dampening fluid on eBay about what he thought. He suggested I try the 500,000cst fluid or even the 1,000,000cst fluid (using a small amount). I took his advice and purchased the 1,000,000cst fluid. I re-cleaned everything (after a half-dozen times I have gotten pretty fast at completing all the steps) and applied just enough fluid to fill the ridges of the piston. The fluid holds better thereby allowing for less mess. The result was perfection: My tonearm drops very slowly and gently onto the record now. The 300,000cst is too thin for the piston and spring. That was the problem. Otherwise, these instructions are absolutely correct. Just do yourself a favor and get 500,000cst minimum or the 1,000,000cst.
I followed your instructions to the letter. I tried to add the 300,000cst stuff from the same company three or four times. It wasn’t so easy since the stuff can get all over everything and it will flow down the piston. In any case, I repeatedly got the same result: The arm just dropped with the lever. There was no no slow drop. It actually seemed to drop somewhat slower when I tested it before I replaced the spring. Once the spring was back in place, and I lowered the lever, the mechanism just dropped at the same rate as the lever. I finally gave up. I must have been doing something wrong…or the black plastic lever part isn’t engaging with the white plastic part properly.
Nice video, great info. What are the Choke specs you used to replace the resistor? There is no information on Tubelab about the ideal Choke for the amp.
Thanks for this fix video! I just bought a used Technics BD20D from this random store that had some used electronics. I didn’t need a tt, but since I had 2 Technics BD22 new in the late 80’s, I sorta wanted to get this tt again bc they were great economical tts and i had for like 15 years without an issue. But the BD22 was like the higher model but made almost with the same mold and design. It had a different platter with tiny round circle and a speed adjust and a red lit speed indicator that’s not in this model.. This used one came with a dust cover and I was glad it stayed open on its own. Bc the BD22 when I got new in the box, the cover wouldn’t stay up. Since they both did that, I just kept and either took off, but always thought that was strange even if it were to go into a stereo system bc why have a cover and not stay open and had moving hinges. So I think they were a bad batch this discount place got and didn’t pass on to the customers. So back to my new used BD20D , so the guy said he hasn’t tested and probably got from the goodwill. He said he had for awhile but haven’t had time to test out. So since the belt was laying in the platter and I knew how to put back on. I plugged it in and took off the platter and put the belt back on and lifted the arm manually and it spinner. So thinking these were low maintenance, I figured it was only a belt issue. But looking back, the belts pretty easy to put back on and was taken off on purpose and didn’t just slip off and land on the top of the rubber platter may. So today I just plugged in to check it out some more and I.noticed the cue wasn’t working and look like it was stuck on lift up. Bc when I manually picked up the needle arm and moved to the center, it would pull back and bring back to the start and go back to the post. I tried a few more times and the same thing and I also noticed the needle was in the lift position and not go down to the platter (I didn’t have a record on the player) . So the thing that seems to lift the arm near the back, I pressed it down and it went down, but the needle still seem to not drop to the platter level. So I gotta figure out how to adjust the auto return and fix the cueing and make the needle go down to the platter/record. It’s cosmetically in great condition and I only paid $20 . for it and just the dust cover is worth that. But I don’t want another electronic item that needs repair and not working. I was afraid to get to the inner works, I had to take the bottom off, but good to know most are under the platter and those 3 screws under . I hope I can figure out which operates the auto return and cue up and down and to get the arm to go down and not stay in the cue lift state. Anyway, I save your video and look for other fixes for the tts. And hope someone had some interest in reading my long detail post. Thanks
Zombie comment... The mute circuit is adjustable under the tonearm base grey rubber plug per the Owners manual, and can I believe, be adjusted completely off. The lead in lead out position also needs to be adjusted.
I guess you know you won't get any sound if the small rubber v-groove belt under the tone is broken.. it turns on the sound when the cue drops down towards the the record groove.
Congrats for the video. One question about this model. If it is 110v and pluged in 220v, does it burn the fusil or the motor or transformer? Sorry about the bad english and thanks in advance
Hello! I’ve been sitting here for hours with no optimism left! I have the Onkyo TA-630D and it’s pristine but have an issue!! Can you PLEASE send me some information and hopefully some pictures of how the eject mechanism and door go back together from start to finish? I replaced all the belts and cannot for the life of me figure out how to get the door installed properly so that it works?? PLEASE!?!?
I moved my Dual 1219 out to my shop months ago and installed my backup TT since the Dual had stopped spinning the platter. Today I took off the platter to look, saw that the idler wheel was not contacting the spindle turned by the drive. I was thrilled the drive was still working, began researching what to do about a rubber idler wheel with over 50 years of use. Saw that ebay had new/used ones and that there were companies to refurbish your idler wheel for about $50. I had watched one video about Dual repair with a guy fixing another problem with a piece of tubing. Oh, he was preaching to the choir! So I cut off 1/4 inch of fuel line in my mower repair stuff and slipped it tightly over the spindle that the idler wheel was not reaching. BOOM! Now it reaches and turns the ideler wheel and the platter at the appropriate speed. Mighty cheap fix, bet it will last.....if I ever have the need to reinstall this TT and pull the other one out, that is.
Thanks for sharing this. What a coincidence, I was just going to do an a/b test between the phono preamp of my integrated and an external one, which happens to be a schiit mani. So I will have to disable the muting circuit. Another thing that happens to me is that in order for the spinning rate to be correct (according to the strobe) I have to raise the pitch a couple of points. I guess it is because the capacitors are no longer at their original values. Another thing I am going to do is to modify the RCA cables for better quality shielded ones, there is a very detailed tutorial on youtube. Greetings from the Basque Country.
Seems like your overhang is too forward. Do you have the Technics overhang gauge? They're cheap as chips. Thanks so much for the this. I came here for the tonearm damping fluid fix and stayed for the 78 RPM mod which I think I'm going to do to my SL-1700. I plan to use a small low profile push button switch instead of your toggle. Less concern of interference and a round hole will take care of it. Well done and thanks again. 👏👏👏
Glad you found it helpful! The reason for the overhang is that I am using the Baerwald alignment, which pushes the Technics tonearm to the outer limit (and looks a little funky because it ends up slightly crooked). The stock alignment is indeed further in and is closer to the Stevenson method. I do have one or two Technics tools kicking around.
I have a WX-999 that has an issue, it plays ok on the second deck but the reverse does not engage when pressed or when the tape reaches the end, the two reels rotate in the opposite direction then switching back to the working direction. Only one reel should moving. The other transport controls don't lock in FW/RW, they stop when depressed.
I have a FL 1300 Turntable Direct Dr. and it will not stop turning. I don’t know if it’s from the arm adjustment or the mechanism itself and sounds like you know what you’re doing.
I assume you meant SL-1300. Does the automation work otherwise? I think the motor is controlled via a micro switch on these, but it's been awhile and I don't recall off the top of my head. You can download the service manual from vinylengine.com.
That was great. Would you do mine if I sent it to you??😁 Do you list anywhere the place you bought the belt kit and the service manual? I bought my 630D brand new back in 78/79 and used it for years. Just pulled it back out and wanted to use it again, but the belts turned back to mush - just like yours. I would like to get mine going again. Thanks for the video.
Sorry, I just don't have the time to service decks for others as I still have a rather large pile myself. :) I believe I bought the belt kit for this from Marrs Communications, but that company seems to have disappeared. To be fair, I had a number of problems with them towards the end and stopped using them anyway. Since I bought it as a kit, I don't know the sizes offhand. I see KP Components has it. I have bought from them before but can't vouch for this particular kit. The other option is eBay. The most important thing is the quality of the capstan belt. If it is just a common replacement for the original size, it will not perform as well (wow and flutter). It's become quite difficult for these vendors to find real belts that meet the original specs. Best you can do is try one and see how it goes.
Watched the whole series with great attention, since i have an appointment with clients (actually a friend's family) this Thursday who have a similar 5116 Wk unit , who they say has power but no sound from any of the outputs. I have worked on vintage AM radios a bit and changed caps in more modern audio systems, but this one as your videos prove it, promises to be a lot more challenging. I do not know what the clients will want to do with the console either just a quick n dirty re start (if at all possible) or opt for a complete restoration. After watching the series i'm not sure i would undertake a whole resto project of this magnitude, but at the very least i'll have a look at it on location. I'm trying to muster up a check list to that effect, i'l be bringing minimum equipment such as multimeter, tube tester, Deoxit, and a few tools, but if you have any suggestions on how to do a basic check up i'm all ears. Thank's for sharing the series, incredible work sir, wish you had shot detailed footage on the Selenium rectifier replacement circuit and parts since i suspect it'll also be bad in the 5116 Wk, but i quite understand you could not have shot everything all of the time. Editing must have been quite long. Take car, God bless.
Got this TT from a guy who serviced it. He put a new tonearm belt & gear . Cleaned & lubed it. Buffed dust cover. Put a US transformer to replace Japanese transformer. Plays great with Shure
I just want to throw you some appreciation for this - after starting to care about keeping the older equipment around my house in better condition, I pulled out the SL-BD25 and all the matching gear from the stack that came out of my grandma's basement. Slowly going thru the rack and making sure everything is doing okay, and this video helped me solve two different issues I was having with the turntable! Can't thank you enough.
