I just really wanted to thank you for doing this. I managed to fix up and re-grease everything thanks to this very detailed video. I've done the speed knobs before, but had never fixed up the tonearm and lever. Now my Technics is running and clean inside and out just like the day it was bought in 1977. Thanks a bunch!
After my previous post below, I asked a seller of the silicon dampening fluid on eBay about what he thought. He suggested I try the 500,000cst fluid or even the 1,000,000cst fluid (using a small amount). I took his advice and purchased the 1,000,000cst fluid. I re-cleaned everything (after a half-dozen times I have gotten pretty fast at completing all the steps) and applied just enough fluid to fill the ridges of the piston. The fluid holds better thereby allowing for less mess. The result was perfection: My tonearm drops very slowly and gently onto the record now. The 300,000cst is too thin for the piston and spring. That was the problem. Otherwise, these instructions are absolutely correct. Just do yourself a favor and get 500,000cst minimum or the 1,000,000cst.
I want to thank you for the video, my technics Sl1600 arm was going all the way to the end of the record instead of the beginning. You showed me how to get to the insides and sure enough the grease on the pivot point was stuck took it apart like you showed, I cleaned and regreased everything, it now works like new. Thanks again.
Thanks so much for posting this video! Following your instructions I successfully replaced the cueing damping fluid on both of my SL-1650's today. Technics published a Technical Service Bulletin (available on the Vinyl Engine site) which has a "Method A" and "Method B" to replace the cueing damping fluid, depending on the serial number of your turntable. Both of my 1650's fall under "Method A" which requires removing the arm lift assembly from above, which, as you say, is not possible. "Method B" (supposedly for turntables with an earlier serial number than found on my units) does have you adding the fluid from below, but also has you first attempting to remove the arm lift assembly from above. Bottom line is that I wouldn't have had a clue how to disassemble the turntable to accomplish this task without your video. Thanks again!
Today I replaced the cueing damping fluid of my Technics SL-1710MK1. Works exactly the same way as for the SL-1600. Also fixed a stuck pitch control with some 3-in-one dry lube. Thanks for your clear instructions!
Great tutorial. I was puzzling how to disassemble my SL-1700, which is very similar, and came across this. Easier than my SL-1400 to do the tonearm rest damper. The only thing I found is that if you push the tonearm rest fully down, the hex head of the height screw sits proud of the rest, enabling removal of the screw, and therefore the tonearm rest (same as on the SL-1400). This then allows removal of the damper rod with the tube plate, without having to disassemble the anti skate. Just makes it even easier.
Thanks for the video, very helpful with showing how to take the table apart. I am currently in the process of trying to solve the problem of having the speed randomly speeding up and slowing down.
78 is good if that's what you need for your records... people should understand though that it's not good for most stylus and they should buy the right stylus/cartridge. nice job on the cue control i may have to do one soon. Good video here and thank you.
I work on vintage turntables and being Technics is my favorite ones to work on. The SL-1300 has two fuses side by side I bet that one of them is blown. The strobe light will come on because it is wired strait from the power transformer . Great vid BTW
You can turn the hex screw by depressing the lid arm itself-it’s spring loaded. The screw will then be able to turn once the lift arm is slightly pushed down revealing the hex screw head. The lift arm is the cue lift that lifts the tonearm.
This is a great video and it helped me dig into my SL-1650! Thank you for taking the time to create this how to. I adjusted my trim pots, but the 33RPM still runs a bit fast. Is there a place that you know that sells replacement pots? I think I need to replace the speed adjustment pots because I cannot seem to adjust them enough to get the 33 to not sound like chimpmunks are singing Xmas songs.
Amorphous Audio - Yesterday I cleaned and added silicone damping fluid to the cueing mechanism just as you described in your SL-1600 video. Mine turns out is an SL-1800. The strobe light comes on but the motor doesn’t spin. I will take it to a Tech to find out what the issue is. Great TT in perfect shape. Looking forward to your future vids 👍👍
You need special silicone grease CS5000 or CS3000 for the support cue arm damper ! It's also used and sold for RC remote control cars differential depending how fast you want your cueing arm to drop down !
Thanks for making this video! Do you by any chance know whether the Technics SL-Q2 allows you to lift the cylinder on the tonearm up and out to change the damping fluid? I checked the service manual, but it wasn't clear to me. New to repairing and wanted to gauge whether it was within my abilities to do. Thanks again!
I followed your instructions to the letter. I tried to add the 300,000cst stuff from the same company three or four times. It wasn’t so easy since the stuff can get all over everything and it will flow down the piston. In any case, I repeatedly got the same result: The arm just dropped with the lever. There was no no slow drop. It actually seemed to drop somewhat slower when I tested it before I replaced the spring. Once the spring was back in place, and I lowered the lever, the mechanism just dropped at the same rate as the lever. I finally gave up. I must have been doing something wrong…or the black plastic lever part isn’t engaging with the white plastic part properly.
Great video. I have an SL-1700 that I need to add damping lube to the arm lift as the arm drops too fast. I watched a video yesterday showing the difference when using the stylus downforce scale, with and without the mat. Actually, to get an accurate reading the mat should be removed, since the thickness of the scale itself is about that of the mat.
Congrats for the video. One question about this model. If it is 110v and pluged in 220v, does it burn the fusil or the motor or transformer? Sorry about the bad english and thanks in advance
Very nice video, my problem is in the rca cables. The right channel cut out and I cant get it back. When I flip the plugs the left speaker cuts out. Any advise on where to start would be greatly appreciated.
Can you recommend the proper lubricating oils and grease you use and where to apply them when doing a complete cleaning and re-lubricating? Much appreciated and helpful video in reviving my SL-1700
I use a synthetic grease called "super lube" to replace most light-duty greases used between plastic/plastic and plastic/metal interfaces (where white lithium grease is normally used). Some situations with higher loads require moly lubricants. For oils, it kind of depends. For brass/bronze bushings requiring light oiling (like capstans), I often use a synthetic sewing machine oil. Technics uses a special oil on their motor spindles, which is a heavier viscosity.
You made that look a lot less complicated then it actually was. What was the most challenging part? The tone arm dismantling looked very complicated. Take care! -Bill
It's really not as bad as it looks. Aside from the delicate tonearm wiring and the light anti-skate spring, it's built pretty tough. Panasonic made some nice stuff back in the day. Thanks for watching!
Great video! I have the original Audio Technica 140E cartridge from 1977 but I replaced the stylus so it has less than 20 hours on it. What type of cartridge do you use? Can you show us how to install and align a new cartridge sometime? Thanks again
Yeah, I've been meaning to do that. There are a lot of videos out there on the topic, but not much is said about the various alignment methods and their pros and cons.
You can actually loosen the hex screw if you just push that little curved black plastic part down. It’z the same way you adjust the cue lifter height actually.
That only works with some units. :) If you look at the service manual, you'll see there is an "early" and "late" design on the lift mech of the 1600. Mine is the early design, which requires full disassembly. Trust me, I tried and tried that trick before I learned about the difference.
Can you tell me where to find the schematic and service manual for the SL-1600. I purchased mine new in 1977 when in the Navy. It is not working properly the grease is probably dried out. I can only find the SL-1600 MKII manual. Great video and maybe I won't need the manual since you gave detailed instructions. Thanks for this awesome video.
Seems like your overhang is too forward. Do you have the Technics overhang gauge? They're cheap as chips. Thanks so much for the this. I came here for the tonearm damping fluid fix and stayed for the 78 RPM mod which I think I'm going to do to my SL-1700. I plan to use a small low profile push button switch instead of your toggle. Less concern of interference and a round hole will take care of it. Well done and thanks again. 👏👏👏
Glad you found it helpful! The reason for the overhang is that I am using the Baerwald alignment, which pushes the Technics tonearm to the outer limit (and looks a little funky because it ends up slightly crooked). The stock alignment is indeed further in and is closer to the Stevenson method. I do have one or two Technics tools kicking around.
This is awesome! I’ve learnt so much... I am about to replace the RCAs on my Technics SL 1800 as I am losing the left channel... Should I avoid a pre soldered internal ground one and just solder new wires?
I replaced the cables on mine with a new set of quality RCA cables. I just cut the connectors off the other end. Most cables will work so long as they are not too long. Ideally, you want something with low capacitance, bit they figure is rarely specified.
@@AmorphousAudio thank you so much!! Sorted that!... only problem now... on putting back together, it’s lost its ‘bounce’... no earthquake tests until I suss where I’ve gone wrong! 😌
If it is not moving completely into position in either direction, it is probably an issue similar to what I have. There is also a small gear that tends to crack that causes issues as well. The position where it comes down on the record is adjustible.
This is a great video. I just imported this unit from Japan, Cosmetic wise it is excellent. Now I am having the erratic speed issues which seem like spinning at 90rpm or more. Yes, I am using a proper 220v -> 100v transformer. I am running out of ideas how can I fix this? Is this the AN630 IC issue or something else. Would you be kind enough to shed some light on this? I love this unit but I can't use it with the speed issue. The spinning is inconsistent in the sense, let's say it is spinning at 90 rpm .. it also slows down by itself and goes back faster spinning again. I tried to adjust the VR underneath the platter, it did not help either. Really want to fix this unit for my personal usage. Any idea I would really appreciate. Thanks for this video!
It's usually one of two things: dirty adjustment pots or bad capacitors. Buy a can of Deoxit Fader and give the speed control pots a blast. If you move the adjustment knob to a "wrong" speed position, is it more stable? If the deoxit doesn't work, then the pot may be too worn. A workaround it so tweak the internal adjustments on the PCB slightly to move the correct speed setting to another position of the main pot.
Awesome video. I have an SL1600-MK2 that needs servicing and a new head/stylus. It powers on and spins and i would like to use it. Do you happen to know or recommend someone, like your-self, in/around San Francisco to service it?
I'm not aware of anyone in SFO, but I imagine there has to be someone out there that can service it for you. These can be a bit temperamental in their old age.
all the sl technics I had having the same problem; tone arm dropping to fast. I tried mij sk 1411 to mend it the way you dit here. it was not a succes. in the end using in the end thick gravite? grease but not enough effect on the damping. I have quite this job now. 😒
You can remove the black tonearm rest to get the piston out completely. There is a spring inside holding the screw tight down in the hex. Cue up the arm and either use the table or your finger from the underside, stop the piston from going down. Now push down on the black tonearm rest. The screw will raise out of the Hex and you can unscrew it.
Man, I tried to do that but I could not get it to pop out. The service manual also does not mention this for my version, so I assumed I had the older version. Next time I have to relube it, I'll try that again.
@@AmorphousAudio sorry. the headshell during autostart goes to the end of the record (near the center) and immediately returns to its resting position. i have to place the cartridge manually to the record if i have to use the 1600mk1.
behind the tonearm is the pivot. there's 2 horizontal screws 90 degrees apart, their silver. do you have a video or know how to calibrate these screws their like small cams. there's a small screw inside and a slot screw surrounding the tiny screwdriver screw. . i have a sl-3200 technics.
Are you referring to the set/locking screws of the tonearm pivot itself? I generally avoid touching these (even when replacing tonearm wiring), as they are quite fiddly to get right again. If someone has taken the linkage all apart, then you are forced to deal with it. It's a matter of getting the linkage centered on both axes while leaving some play in the process. Then you need slowly bring them in a little at a time while wiggling the axis to keep it centered until there is no play in the bearing. Then lock the locknut on one side and back-off the other side of that axis about 1/8 of a turn before locking it. That should give about the right amount of play.
how much current runs thru the switch? if it is a low current ,why not use a touch switch with some dubbel sided tape underneath the top below the speed knob or the on of switch,might be easier than lifting the mat up
anyone know the part number for the arm rest/lock? Mine broke. Also does it just screw in or do i have to totally remove the tone arm base like you did to screw in the arm rest? i hope not but your video made it easy enough to show how to do it.
Your best bet it probably to find a donor table, though that is getting tough in this age of vinyl resurgence. Even a basket case SL-anything goes for too much money on eBay just to buy it as a donor. You might have better luck on Craigslist or some other local listings on Facebook finding a beat-up, dirty TT with no dust cover for cheap to use for parts.
Hi just got this turntable from my father and it needs servicing. I dont know how much I want to put into it. How does the 1600 compare to a modern $1000 table? Thanks!
Well, it really depends on what you are going for and what condition the deck is in. Even at $1000, no one is making direct drive tables anymore...though that isn't super-important to most people. The other thing modern TTs don't do is automation. You can get cheap tables that are semi-auto, but all the high-end stuff is fully manual.
I have a FL 1300 Turntable Direct Dr. and it will not stop turning. I don’t know if it’s from the arm adjustment or the mechanism itself and sounds like you know what you’re doing.
I assume you meant SL-1300. Does the automation work otherwise? I think the motor is controlled via a micro switch on these, but it's been awhile and I don't recall off the top of my head. You can download the service manual from vinylengine.com.
Hi I have technics SL 1300 it powers on but does not spin at all. I cleaned all of the pots with Detoxit but still want spin. can you help me on my great TT would love to get it going
I haven't worked on a 1300, but I imagine it has very similar electronics (if not the same) to the 1600. By "turns on" do you mean that the strobe light comes on? That means that the fuse is OK, but that's about it. That neon bulb is powered by the mains and not the power supply that powers the rest of the electronics. So if the light comes on when you move the tonearm but motor doesn't turn, it could be several things. If you are comfortable using a multimeter, you can download the schematic from vinylengine.com and check the power supply voltages. If the motor IC is getting the voltages it should, then some more detailed diagnosis is required.
You want something that is relatively low capacitance, though honestly any "regular" RCA cable can be made to work (by cutting off the connectors at one end) as long at it is relatively short.
My sl1900 have a runaway speed problem.i cleaned the variable resistor in the circuit board and also the knobs pots.but problem still there. I experiment by replacing the variable restr.with 200kohms(the original value 20k won't work.), The rpm 33/45 is now controlled but unstable. Do I need to replace the "knob pots"?please advice.
Something that riddles me: in the PCB in the tonearm assembly you can see that the right ground is connected to the chassis ground. It's also like this on mine. Is this by design? I'm asking because my right channel is quirky and I don't want any chassis ground and motor noise in my right signal.
I think this is being used as a star-ground point of sorts for the TT. I've seen it done this way to ensure there is no ground loop between the shielding of two channels (since they will be will likely be connected together at the preamp).
@@AmorphousAudio Thank you. I have eventually reconverted it to the original situation, where the chassis ground is separate from the channel grounds. It fixed the audio problem in the right channel. I think some userd do it to eliminate the ground wire. Cheers
Io ho un piatto Sl1610.Che non mi permette mai,di arrivare ad ascoltare l’ultima traccia del vinile.Perché?Mi puoi aiutare?Non ho il libretto di uso e manutenzione.E qui in Italia con il ns Google non riesco a trovare informazioni utili.
Hello, I have this turntable and I have an issue with the anti-skate not working correctly. the tone arm drifts from the center back to start even on 0. I believe it is causing records to skip. How do you fix this?
The number of the anti-skate dial corresponds to the tracking force being used. So if you run 2g of tracking force, you set the anti-skate to "2" and tweak it from there. Obviously you can't run 0g of tracking force, so the anti-skate still pulls slightly since it is calibrated for more realistic tracking forces. Most of my turn tables pull back lightly on the arm, even at "0". Do you have an appropriate amount of tracking force setup for your stylus? Does the tonearm move freely? Does it skip back or forwards? Does it tend to skip at certain arm positions?
@@AmorphousAudio I have it set at 2 grams of tracking force and have the anti skate at 2 but it drifts at about the 7 inch position. I put it on 0 and it still drifts but does better at 0 than at 2, If I put on a 7 record it will not drop on the record it drifts off of the record as it is going down. that is not normal.
I don't know who told you that every microline stylus needs high VTF? Audio Technica's much loved by audiophiles AT150MLX has one and uses VTF waay below 2 grams!!!
What I said in the video is that microline styli tend to need a bit more anti-skate than an elliptical. I did misspeak when I initially talked about the anti-skate adjustment (I said tracking force the first time). However, when I made the comment about microlines I did say "anti-skate" but then I also said "grams", which is not really accurate. I can see why it was confusing. VTF is generally not a function of the stylus type. In the case of this stylus, 2g is the recommended VTF.
I know this video is two years old, but your cartridge alignment looks way off. There should be 52mm of distance between the diamond tip and the gasket on the headshell. Yours looks way too forward.
Nope it is correct...for the alignment that I chose to do. There are a few different geometries that one can use. The factory alignment using the 52mm offset you mention gets you something along the lines of the so-called "Stevenson" alignment. I usually go for the Baerwald, which requires dangling the cart pretty far off the end of the tonearm on a Technics like you see here. On my JVC, Baerwald is closer to stock and so it doesn't look quite so odd. Löfgren B is another geometry. You can download PDFs for any of these and print out your own compasses to try them out. I'll probably make a video about this some day. There is nothing wrong with using the stock alignment, either. It biases towards better alignment on the inner grooves and sacrifices alignment on the outer grooves. If you cart struggles with IGD, then the Stevenson (or stock Technics) alignment is something good to try.
on my sl1600 the index plate rotation has hardened and the automation no longer works .. but I can't understand how to dismantle the index plate, there are no segers, it seems to be threaded before fixing the column to the frame, but it seems strange to me that it can't be dismantled ...can you help me please with any suggestions? the video of the situation ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NGX_RHg_nSc.html Thanks!
@@AmorphousAudio yes I do, by heating the column and using unlocking liquid slowly it came out, cleaned and lubricated now it works... :) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dfenQwFAmjE.html
