@Alex-f1j5i no idea, I guessed the door was in the 200lb range and told the garage spring people that. basically any garage door spring ahould be fine for a trailer door.
@@MooseDoesStuff I was talking about the whole project from start to finish? Unless I miss it, you had four videos on raising the garage? Looking at the days you posted. I'm thinking this took about a month?
thanks so much for posting these videos. I've been looking at rotten camper trailers the last few days.. the idea is intriguing but after seeing the work and tools and materials, I think you've talked me out of it 😁
@terencelee9704 code might be different where you are. for me, it's not load bearing, only holding up drywall, so they mostly don't care. check with your local codes to be sure tho!
Well, now we know why you were sick. I'm feeling queasy just looking at this dump through the Uchoob. That is the Calgary version of Skid Row I take it.
Picked one up at an amizon return store on dollar weds ....yes bout a jamed one for 1.00 . You rock bro !was about to take it apart before i said let me search RU-vid first. God bless RU-vid and ppl like you!
As someone who has had to take up every type of flooring during construction. Some cheapo knee pads go a long way when having to do brutal work like this.
Perfect. I have a 20 x 24 that I need to move off foundation to pour a new slab. You obviously used lvl across the studs to lift and I saw you said you were going to use them for a different project anyway. What size lvl's did you use? Do you think a single 9.25 lvl would be enough if attached to each stud in the wall to lift and move if each lvl is extended 4' through the exterior wall? I plan to use 4 skidsteers to lift and move the garage out of the way so I can set it on the ground behind the slab for safe keeping (saw your 4th video :o) I could always double the lvl up too I suppose but don't want to buy anymore than I really need because I may use eventually but don't have an immediate use. @@MooseDoesStuff
I have to lift on the outside because I will have 2 layers of block around the perimeter of the slab that will inhibit moving or lifting from the inside.
@@azb928 I had a whole thing typed up and then it evaporated. So, TLDR: 4 skids will probably rip supports off the walls. Also supports will twist if you don't have perfect coordination. Look at a way to either slide it on sleds under the bottom plates, or ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fXzdqZL8ZRs.html fenceposts or something. Long as the ground is firm enough (or covered with plywood) you're good to go. I'd still use 2x10's on the inside to shore up the walls and prevent sag. Cheaper than LVLs. And be sure when you stop moving it you square it first, 'cuz whatever method you choose, you'll be out of square after a move.
@@azb928 See other reply, also see if you can move the block out before moving. Sliding or rolling will be a much better option than trying to coordinate 4 skids.
Thanks for sharing the videos. Bummer it ended up this way, but I appreciate that you’re sharing this anyway! I want to do the same with my garage. It was built in the 50’s with a dirt floor and the previous owner decided to pave the floor. Ugh Lessons can be learned by all!
@@MooseDoesStuffYou compared a residential grade 15 amp receptacle to a 20 amp commercial grade. You should compare both of the same grade, commercial or spec grade, then the design shape would be identical, only the horizontal slot would be different.
@@surferdude642 @surferdude642 you know where to get cheaper 20a outlets in Canada? would love to hear! fyi: there's no distinction "commercial" vs "residential" here on these.
@@MooseDoesStuff I'm in the US, so no I don't, sorry. Most of the receptacles are made or at least designed by American companies. I guess the CEC decided that all 15 amp receptacles must be residential grade and commercial grade receptacles are all 20 amp for 120v circuits? That would explain why 20 amp receptacles used in residential applications must be used for 20 amp circuits. In the US, the NEC allows 15 or 20 amp duplex receptacles on 20 amp circuits, without distinguishing between residential or spec grade. Personally, I would only use a spec grade on a 20 amp circuit, and usually on a 15 amp circuit as well. There are still some electricians and others that opine if it's a 20 amp circuit, use only a 20 amp receptacle, here in the US, notwithstanding the NEC's permission to use a 15 amp duplex receptacle. BTW, you can actually get 20 amp residential grade here, although they are not as common.
😒😒😒... 1993 Ford f150 5.0 truck and 142,000 on the clock... That sound when you spin it is what mines is doing now...1st it was the Dizzy (distributor ), then the Smog pump got jealous and decided to join the "Flock of baby birds Chorus ensemble "... Soo, the noise is enough to just drive you insane !!!... But, alas, I'm my own mechanic and don't have $200.00/hr to pay somebody to fix them...😭😭😭
@@MooseDoesStuff ...😂😂😂... Naw, "Betsey LuLu " is on her "attitude phase"...Fixed the heater hoses a week or so ago...Did that fix the leak,...Nawwww...Had to go BACK to the parts store and get all new clamps, and some more hose...Old spring clamps didn't hold tite enuff...Rite now, when I gitn ready for annual maintenance, we got smog pump, Dizzy, Wheel bearings, power steering pump, full steering system all the way to the firewall including ball joints drag links, steering gear box, etc...Just got done doing Coil springs a couple weeks ago...And all this is just for starters...And essentially doing all on the side of the road, since my Apt complex doesn't allow me to work on my truck in the parking lot...😭😭😭... I could spend 'bout 2 weeks fixing all this stuff if I had a covered shop...Now, it's when it's good weather and ain't too hot...
@@MooseDoesStuff.... you ain't lying....Coil springs...Went with cheaper aftermarket instead of MOOG...Springs was totally made wrong, could not use them, even though they said were the same as CC820 MOOG'S....Bottom line...Buy once...Cry once...Any suspension parts for "FOAD", Go with MOOG...Yeah, they a l'il pricey, but they fit...No fuss...No must...
With all due respect you are quite wrong and rather go backwards. You point about SketchUp is correct but for the wrong reason - SketchCrap is just a terrible software period. Shapr3D is so easy to learn, so versatile, you do your traditional drafting in the sketch, 3D model, and then the app makes your shop drawings. It does not get faster and more precise. As a designer that makes 3D objects I want to use a 3D tool and not a 2D tool and have it imagine the final 3D object …
Which part am I wrong about? Say I'm wrong all you want, but specify why. I think, rather than me going backwards, you're trying to skip foundational steps and you're losing out on basic skills. You say you let your app make the shop drawings, I bet when you find yourself in a situation where you don't have the app available, you're going to really struggle. If you can't imagine a final 3d object, you're really not much of a designer. Finally, saying "Shapr3d is so easy to learn"... is exactly my point. You don't need to learn a package like fireworks - it's intuitive. But if you wanna prove me wrong, go make a video that does what I do in this, and show how shapr is faster and more intuitive.
@@MooseDoesStuffYou can use Fireworks a WebDesign tool to make your pattern layout if you want. I rather teach my students quick sketches and then we go into CAD because it offers a much better experience and method to explore designs. That’s also how we work in the industry btw ;)
@@MooseDoesStuff you are getting pretty offensive - not really a strong way to discuss but ok ... You continue using fireworks - we teach the students to sketch ideas quickly and refine in 3D, as also our commercial clients we do work with to do because that is how the industry works today.
@@cekuhnen oh, sorry, my bad.... I missed your foam core video 😂🤣 hmu when you've framed a house, powercarved a bench, or have actually built any of those ikea pieces you've ripped modeling for content 🙄
That built in shelving was made for activities Damn sturdy What is that under the flooring As to the gaps, I 'm guessing it was installed sloppy or wrong
I'd prefer one that's just floors & kitchen, but this is what was available. on the flip side, I've barely spent anything to do the extra demo, and because it was so bad I was able to get it for 12k under asking. that basically covers the cost of the reno, and even if it takes a bit longer, right now this market is appreciating so fast that it actually works out in my favor.
At this point I'm more qualified than most home inspectors here. Also, being a condo, all the structural issues you'd be concerned about a home inspection finding, would show up in a condo docs review
