I also found that the "automotive laquer" is just not suitable for composites! If you use polyesther resin, it will literally melt. I am now using 2k automotive clear coat to seal molds. Nothing else I have tried can come close to it! It creates a hard, impervious layer that can be sanded and polished, and it is compatible with every release system I have tried. Oh, and if you have an oven, you can bake your parts and then sand it in as little as 30 min.
Have one of these and is now 10 years old and still going strong. Bought it just to learn how to TIG weld not expecting it to really last that long but has been great. I only weld mild and stainless steel with it. Have built 2 stainless exhaust systems, 3 lots of intercooler piping, turbo manifold and countless other benches and brackets etc. As others have said really need a A/C Tig for aluminium and now I have learnt how to Tig, a foot pedal would be nice and no water cooling means the torch can get really hot if using high amps. For a beginner its awesome
Great video! Could you please elaborate on the LSR you are using and how it's cured? Can you share the manufacturer and quality etc? I'm doing some experimenting right now in this field but all the LSRs I've come across require around 150 degree celcius to cure making the actual mold one of the harder parts to make from 3d printing. If you cure the silicone at room temp that makes things a lot more easy
Hello! Thanks for the feedback. This silicone is a 2 part (equal part A/B) "addition cure" silicone. Essentially it chemically cures like an epoxy at room temperature. The company in this instance is called dalchem and I think this silicone was their P20 (the number being hardness value) but I can't see that on their website any more, P35 would be the closest. dalchem.com.au/dalchem-p35.html If you're in Aus that's your best bet. If your in the US then look for smooth-on products. Good luck
Thanks mate. You're 100% correct. If I make another one with this method I'll change my technique. I should also be using thinner templates so there is less chance of catching etx
This set up mixes the silicone without any air entrapment, in this way (and using a proper feed in the mould, feeding down through the centre and then filling from the bottom) air bubbles will be avoided
Using a glass mirror is not the best surface, it’s so smooth, anything will release. This experiment should be on a fibreglass mould, as that is the usual surface used as a mould.
For the tool/mould? Most manufacturers will tell you how much surface area their product will cover per litre (and you should know the area of your part from measuring). Likewise, I knew how thick I wanted to make the mould, so I was able to calculate the layers needed and then multiply that by the area to work out the glass needed (plus some extra)
Sure do. The foam was perforated using the perf tool I made previously. It works well. I think the surface imperfections were as a result of the super 77 being used to hold down the carbon and no clear coat
Sorry for the really late reply. I'm using dalchem silicone from Aus. However I have used smooth on before too. The trick with this method is to have a low viscosity silicon (which usually correlates to the final shore hardness, the fact I want soft parts is beneficial here)
Looks like links other than the thingsverse one expired. Could you clue me in on what sizes and whatnot the non printed components are? Starting my own business with a cool, new product. I just have to make some prototypes. I'll ship you a prototype if you help me out!
chapmaneng.com/shop/composite-tools/ this is the link to the Infusion connector, it's the thing I'm making in the video with the injection mould. I've stopped selling them as I've moved overseas recently (twice) and I don't have the stability to keep producing them. If you have any questions on other parts of the build I'm happy to help out.
These are the syringes I used: a.aliexpress.com/_mOaeGyc And these are the mixing cartridges: a.aliexpress.com/_mLMiycG The rest is just some screws, a dewalt clamp and some vinyl hose
I'm planning to make thousands of fittings all different kinds for NPT water fittings, I know there is a market for it to be bought, is it profitable or worthwhile to mass produce the fittings using a CNC or a lathe? It will be mostly brass material.
this is absolutely brilliant. I'd assume the restriction is also probably coming from the hose expanding. Think about cars that use Stock rubber brake lines and switch to SS braid lines for better performance (also clutch lines as well)
I'd prefer not to, I sell these parts. Sorry. However, I generally go for a 0.2mm clearance. Flat surfaces have an o ring groove in them with a custom o ring, or a cone shape that it mates against to locate the part and seal it.
Amazing work Iv just started doing skinning and it’s not that easy first one was flat bottom steering wheel I cut and fitted a pipe then covered the top and bottom was hard to keep in line and smooth. I found spray glue helps when laying try keep the ends not pulling out
Me too mate, me too... That part is still the least certain part of the build. I think I've found a mob who can supply me with a grout (UHPC) that meets all of my needs, I'm just waiting on final confirmation from them. I'll have a video about it up eventually, so stay tuned.
It sure did. Especially when I had to rework the legs. The legs you saw me weld on were 100mm too short, so I had to go and buy new ones and then I re purposed then as those additional braces at the top (they weren't in the CAD render). The bad(?) news is, the cost of the stand pales in comparison to the rest of it....
Good day mate thanks for the good info. I just got one off eBay. If you look on RU-vid for welding aluminum with DC tig there is good info. AC tig for Aluminum is just easer and if you do Argon Helium gas mix it will in prove the performance a bit.
great video! one thing about bubbles. You could use the "other way" to eliminate them - pressure vessel. One use of a pressure paint tank is to eliminate bubbles in castings. Just pop it into the chamber, pump the vessel up to 30PSI and see the difference :) Thanks for sharing this. (just a thought but aren't you wasting a lot of energy with the friction of this larger and longer connector tubes? Rigid PE or similar (teflon best) tubes would give you a much better advantage.... might be worth a try. Doug)
Hey, thanks for the tip, I had considered that, but I figure is going to be much more fiddly to make one or two that way rather than just sand and recoat the outside. Would you agree or am I chasing false efficiency?
@@CEWManufacturing If your only going to be making a few of these I would try the shrink tape first. But if your going to making more then a couple I would make a female and press it.
You're 100% on the money. I was only looking at making 2 or 3 so I'll stick with the shrink tape. I should probably knock out a female mould just for fun at some stage though...
We're well past the build video stage now, I started building this thing before I was making RU-vid videos and my first videos were all composites based. What kind of parts list are you thinking about? I'm more than happy to do that. Also, it's not a lathe, but the build of my mill (gantry, huge) is about to start. I'll put up videos of that.
@@CEWManufacturing Hi, first off would be the servo you chose for the spindle (and why) that and generally things like rails, ballscrews, if you can remember. What's your CNC control system? I do like what Masso offer but I'm stuck in the UK. I've been looking more into granite or epoxy granite for bed (I've been drooling over Piotr Fox Wysocki's builds)
Speaking of Fox, I too am a fan of his build and took some advice off him regarding the tool holders and the spindle. I went for the 4.2kw version instead of the 2.5 he was using. I cannot wait to get it going. The servo is a 2kw, 2500 rpm servo from AliExpress. The rails are hgr15, though I'd go for 20 or 25 if doing it again for extra ridgity. Likewise the ball screws are 1605 (z axis) and 1604 (x axis) if I was doing it again I'd get double ball nut to remove the small amount of backlash and ad some preload.
The cnc control system is a pokeys57cnc with Mach 4. I like it but I'm running ethercat through Linux cnc for my next build (well that's the plan). As for the epoxy granite, I don't think it is worth it. For a bench top lathe. I'd contact your local fab shops and find a bit of thick wall 150-200mm SHS and use tha as the chassis. It's pretty easy, rigid, and is going to be less work. You could make an EG headstock, I think there is value in that, and if you had it at 45 degrees to the vertical you could use backside tooling and have a really good chip evacuation path...
The video is interesting, but I see a problem with this construction method: you have limited control over the fiber direction. It probably won't matter for this application, because it seems over-engineered anyways, so this is just a general observation in case strength is more of an issue (like in airplane wings). You would want longitudinal direction for the upper and lower spar surface, but vertical or even better bidirectional in 45/45° diagonal orientation (or triaxial) for the vertical connection part. You can't have all that be winding the same cloth in that 'C' shape. What I would have done: rectangular spar cross section, with two separate types of cloth: longitudinal stripes of unidirectional cloth for the upper and lower surface and then wrap triaxial cloth around the entire thing (the vertical parts don't need to be very strong, so very few layers of triaxial would do the trick).
Thanks for taking the time to comment. You can still get good fiber orientation control with an open, wet, hand layup (routan aircraft are testaments to that), however you won't get the same level of precision as you would with prepreg (and cnc tape placement etc). Specifically on the points you raised about the spar: it was well over engineered, this was done because I was exploring the construction method and was only intending to make a smaller section, but somebody wanted it knowing the limitations of what I was doing so this is how it ended up. The spar c channel was a quasi isotropic layup with a higher weighting towards the 45degree fabric I was using. If I was doing it again I would probably lower the number of layers in the vertical surface (maybe take it to 2x biaxial and 1x twill) and then use a unidirectional tape on the spar caps. I wasn't trying to make the most materially efficient wing here, but rather go through the process from start to finish. When I make another I will refine it and it will be better than this one.
