It would, but you would have to size the area of your syringes appropriately if you were maintaining the same stroke lengths, otherwise some kind of ratio of the strokes would be required
I'd prefer not to, I sell these parts. Sorry. However, I generally go for a 0.2mm clearance. Flat surfaces have an o ring groove in them with a custom o ring, or a cone shape that it mates against to locate the part and seal it.
this is absolutely brilliant. I'd assume the restriction is also probably coming from the hose expanding. Think about cars that use Stock rubber brake lines and switch to SS braid lines for better performance (also clutch lines as well)
Great video! Could you please elaborate on the LSR you are using and how it's cured? Can you share the manufacturer and quality etc? I'm doing some experimenting right now in this field but all the LSRs I've come across require around 150 degree celcius to cure making the actual mold one of the harder parts to make from 3d printing. If you cure the silicone at room temp that makes things a lot more easy
Hello! Thanks for the feedback. This silicone is a 2 part (equal part A/B) "addition cure" silicone. Essentially it chemically cures like an epoxy at room temperature. The company in this instance is called dalchem and I think this silicone was their P20 (the number being hardness value) but I can't see that on their website any more, P35 would be the closest. dalchem.com.au/dalchem-p35.html If you're in Aus that's your best bet. If your in the US then look for smooth-on products. Good luck
Sorry for the really late reply. I'm using dalchem silicone from Aus. However I have used smooth on before too. The trick with this method is to have a low viscosity silicon (which usually correlates to the final shore hardness, the fact I want soft parts is beneficial here)
This set up mixes the silicone without any air entrapment, in this way (and using a proper feed in the mould, feeding down through the centre and then filling from the bottom) air bubbles will be avoided
great video! one thing about bubbles. You could use the "other way" to eliminate them - pressure vessel. One use of a pressure paint tank is to eliminate bubbles in castings. Just pop it into the chamber, pump the vessel up to 30PSI and see the difference :) Thanks for sharing this. (just a thought but aren't you wasting a lot of energy with the friction of this larger and longer connector tubes? Rigid PE or similar (teflon best) tubes would give you a much better advantage.... might be worth a try. Doug)
Could you design and print a mixing head in clear that comes apart for cleaning and reuse with a tapered mix section. I need to design the pump system to use one plunger so I can mix colors, degas and then inject into the molds created. It is so cool to be able to make changes in designs and print out the parts to find out what works the best for a particular setup. Thanks for more inspiration.
Looks like links other than the thingsverse one expired. Could you clue me in on what sizes and whatnot the non printed components are? Starting my own business with a cool, new product. I just have to make some prototypes. I'll ship you a prototype if you help me out!
chapmaneng.com/shop/composite-tools/ this is the link to the Infusion connector, it's the thing I'm making in the video with the injection mould. I've stopped selling them as I've moved overseas recently (twice) and I don't have the stability to keep producing them. If you have any questions on other parts of the build I'm happy to help out.
These are the syringes I used: a.aliexpress.com/_mOaeGyc And these are the mixing cartridges: a.aliexpress.com/_mLMiycG The rest is just some screws, a dewalt clamp and some vinyl hose
G'day mate, the printer is a monoprice ultimate. It's got a micro Swiss all metal hot end, as well as a bond tech extruder. I use a print bite build surface. It's pretty good, but the stock cooling sucks and is something I should fix
Dear sir, very interesting effort. May i know why is the Parts A and B not required to be stir mixed? It seems that they merge at the output junction of the "mixer" but no stirring.
They mix through the tube. The tube is called a static mixing nozzle. It divides the mixture in half and re-combines it at multiple stages through the length of the tube. It works really well and doesn't introduce any air bubbles.
That would probably work. If I was going to that level I'd replace the syringes with acrylic tube or something and make it a bit bigger. I'll keep it in mind
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