You are Brilliant you "itchy old fart". All other methods "SUCK" as I worked on my old R30 Chevy Dump Truck via the slave bleeder for hours with 10% luck at bleeding, used your method with my MityVac Pump, that already had for my restored '58 TR3A for brakes etc.. and was done with your method in literally 10 seconds. I originally chuckled "whatever" when you said you can do it on the shoulder of the road, then when I used your method for 10 secs, I literally said out loud, "Holy Shit, I take my chuckle right back !!" 😮
80 year old know nothing ex mechanic .. I get that the system has the fluid topped up and you are sucking any air out via the vent / feed hole in the master cylinder . I can only assume that gravity is working and the fluid is draining into the slave cylinder . I have a new clutch slave cylinder with a bleed nipple but no sign of a bleed screw . LUK 512 0437 10 . the original slave cylinder looked 90 % identical only it had a small allen key size grub screw bleeder . Ok so time is passing us oldies by .. but there is nothing in the paperwork suggesting a way to bleed the cylinder and feed line . If I was clever I could send photos of both slave cylinders then you would see what my problem is .
I love that roll cage. I have an old NM Forestry M37, 1953. I've been driving it to work lately. It's a crowd pleaser and rolling sideshow where ever I go. :D
Like your build !! Now have mine m37 body 1993 4x4 3500 chevy silverado crew cab bodys going and rear diff for single wheel why the chevy cost me $150 00 454 4l80
You saved the day. I was about to drill mine out. My dad and I are up here in MT rebuilding a Dana 60 and its snowing, on June 17. Thanks for the video brother.
Have all the main parts to start the build thks to your videos im using 1996 chev 4x4 one tone frame and running gear !! How hard was mounting the body thks
Body is no problem as I'm using the stock m37 frame. Did have to build a 5th and 6th cab mount brackets for the stretch...wish ING you the best of luck on your cab swap
I just replaced both the clutch master and slave cylinder on my truck and I'm having a helluva time getting the air out of the system. I will try this method tomorrow - thanks!
@@Communism223 Didn't work for me. I actually went out the night I wrote the above comment and tried it (2a.m.). No bubbles. My problem didn't involve air in the master cylinder - instead, my clutch pedal needed adjustment (way out - I suspect my clutch is pretty worn). I had mistakenly assumed the reason I had to press the pedal clear down to the floor was due to air in the system.
Pretty darn smart you are. Unfortunately when I went to use the method my Frontier clutch master cylinder port was at a 45 degree angle towards the back just couldn’t get the rubber tip back there.
You did a really good job making that, excellent bit of kit, easy enough to carry with you too if you are overlanding...Do you think it would be ok on a alloy wheel, or likely to damage it? Not to take your thunder, but for people who don't weld, there is an excellent alternative made of wood..Just search for "DiY Bead breaker" on Sam's Hammers RU-vid channel...More aimed at dealing with standard size car tires than your monsters lol.
No sir, my draft # was never called... I have 3 marine corp sons, and my father was in WWll. This truck is a tribute to all who served. Living and dead
What happened to all of your M37 videos? They were great. I have an M37 that I wanted to restore and had watched each one, with the intent of coming back to incorporated some of your mods into mine. You had a whole series on the cab stretch, roll cage, engine swap, etc. They appear to have been taken down😢 You had some great content!
Please contact me about this awesome build... I am pondering a similar build... How does the 4x4 manage with hwy use? Top speed, Power??? Thanks for your time..
Just saved my night I did have a syringe with a small tube attached that worked really well that I have had for years and never used till now thank you for your help!!
I ruined two bushing attempting to press them in from the driveshaft input side, did you have to press it in from the side that bolts to the rest of the transfer case?
never tried to swap lmtv wheels onto mtv truck or vice/versa. always thought they were the same tire/wheel combination. you're saying that you could turn the mtv tire/wheel combo in or out and still mount it but the lmtv can't?
