finally someone who talks and explains stuff. been looking for DIY force feedback wheel, and about 30 videos are just with annoying music and no explanaition at all. Thankl you for this video, its more educational and helpfull then others <3
Hi Jason! Thank you for making this video! You're one of the only people with a video on how to integrate WLED with QLC+! How would you change the settings in QLC+ to accommodate for around 400 LEDS combined together in one series and around 500 LEDS combined together in another series. But, both LED series are in parallel with other as they are coming of the same voltage, data, and ground pin from the WLED board (sound reactive board from Domestic Automation). My second question is what do you do if the IP address of the ESPboard changes everything you plug it in? Do you have to first check what the new IP address of the board is, and then change the IP address in QLC+? Any solution to not make it change it's IP address? I cannot connect my WLED board to wifi because it's my school's private wifi. My third question is how can you integrate a tactile touch pad like a Akai MPD218 which is a MIDI pad controller into QLC+. I currently have 0 experience with QLC+ and MIDI, but my goal is to be able to use a tactile surface to quickly change WLED animation settings on command when I strike the tactile button. Sorry for so many questions. I would appreciate your guidance! Thank you in advance!
This was my first attempt with QLC+ it's not really my wheelhouse but seems very powerful. DMX by its spec can only hand 512 channels (LEDs) per universe. 500 leds is 1500 channels (for RGB) you would need to create multiple universe's and create a group. You can fix the ip address in WLED so it is static, or if you have the capability in your router you could assign an IP to the MAC address. The later being better IMHO as personally I have had random results will ESP8266 and fixed ip's.
I recommend you try out this project FFBeast. It uses BLDC motors, which are cheap and powerful enough to use them without any gearboxes and use them directly. And quality of feedback is much better. Also you can coonect analog pedal or handbrake sensors in single microcontroller. Also project has open source 3D models for cases. Maybe you should check it out
Pretty cool. Have you ever considered, to directly print connections, instead of wiring? There are filaments that are supposed to be conductive and the Prusa XL can do hundreds or thousands of toolchanges in a reasonable time. So in theory, we could be approaching a point, where a matrix or circuit board could be printed right at home in a single piece.
Be a Human and use your own voice. Your other videos with you were just fine. If you promise you want do this type of video again I will sub your channel.
@@JWNZ dont listen to the Trolls.... in a few more years people will be glad to see and hear a human voice. Look at what AI has done to music..... Watch the video "Ted Gioia on AI's Threat To Music" by Rick Beato its a bit long but totally worth the watch if you are curious about where music scene and even RU-vid will go with AI... Any how I wish you luck.... and dont give up.
Simply brilliant. The punch-card method of making the "button card" profile specific is genius! With three punch holes, you have a multitude of combinations allowing for 9 different profiles if all three solid is an option.
All off is considered "off" so you don't get blinded by the pixels when swapping out a card. You can for sure program program the buttons with no card it's just easier on the eyes. :)
@@JWNZ Sorry I'm relatively new to this stuff. Would i need a special kind of dupont cable or how would I get two sensors connected to the power ports on the Arduino since there is only one 5v port. I'm using Leonardo. Thank you for responding I'm really impressed with your work and I think its super cool!
@ToastyToastedToast you can solder directly to the sensor if you want. Dupont connectors aren't super reliable. I use them when testing but for an actual fixed install I would solder directly.
I was trying it with normal paper when I found this video. It worked okay. Afterwards I rinsed off residual bits of paper with warm water. Running the paper through the 3D printer twice might increase the amount of toner and therefore the amount of transfer. I added transparency film to my shopping list, but standard printer paper does work in a pinch.
In the show notes is a link to the developers site. There he has a forum which he responds to quite quickly. I haven't used it for a while so I am not sure what could be wrong.
I don't know if you've figured it yet, but the loud clicking is the impact system from the drill you used. That's what the notched ring and the heavy spring is. You can take them out completely and just have the motor.
I have been following you, i bought the files for the shifter and pedals. I would like to see a in depth video of the arduino setup. I also want to know how did you go with the force steering wheel. I havent found file and setup with this can you point me in the right direction. Thanks by the way i really lile your content keep up the great work.
Thanks for your support! I can absolutely do a better video on Arduino. In fact I am changing the code away from what I was using to something a bit simpler. I haven't really shared the files for the steering wheel as I am going to go for a brushless unit which is more widely available like a DeWalt or something. The motor I used originally was some bargin bin unit probably not that easy to source.
@@JWNZ Thanks for replying back to me, that would be great and more helpful. Have you thought of using a brushless motor for a remote control, they also have powerful motors. It does look the same as what's on the back of the drill. Just a thought keep up the great work. I can't wait to finish my sim
I have a Anycubic Mega zero with ATMega1240p chip. All steps successfully on my ESP32-Cam but cannot connect with the printer. I soldering TX & RX pin on ATMega1240p (pin 9, 10) or on CH340G chip (pin 2, 3) but not success. Can you help me ? Thanks
I bought the files off you for both items, the pedals and gear shifter. When i bought the pedal files, it told me the handbrake files came with it as a bonus. Its missing the handbrake shaft stl file. can you please help me or show me how to get it. cheers
Hey, great you make content for this! Helps me a lot. As feedback I would recommend to record your screen in better quality as it is quite hard to read what you are clicking, selecting or typing sometimes. Have a nice day!
