I am a freelance commission painter who started painting in 2004, when a friend introduced me to Warhammer Fantasy. I dabbled in the hobby throughout the years, but started back in earnest in 2017. Now it's my sole hobby and obsession.
MY GALLERY, SPONSORS AND COUPONS: linktr.ee/Darcy_Bono_Creations
Favorite Armies 40k: Orks and World Eaters Favorite Armies AoS: Beasts of Chaos, Ironjawz, Sylvaneth Painting style: Hero models or squads. Bright, clean and striking. Prefer organic natural aesthetic to sci-fi or industrial grunge. Play Style: Aggressive, high risk-high reward, MELEE!
Unrelated to the painting other than you mentioned beavers but one of my favorite facts in nature is about beaver teeth. The reason why they look so reddish brown is not because they are dirty. Instead they get that color because of the very high iron content in the teeth. That is also why they are so strong. Anyway! Great video! Really like this scheme for clan rats!
how on earth did you get your grey seer spray to go on so nicely 😭 i tried it and even after shaking the can for 5 minutes i got super textured speckle models
Both humidity, wind and distance from the model can cause speckles. I'll generally prime with the garage door up so a breeze isn't drying the primer before it reaches the model but I'm not spraying inside. Same goes for if you're spraying too far away; the paint droplets dry before reaching the model. Check out the Citadel Colour app, it's free and they have a quick video on a few best practices for spray priming.
I would love to see how you did the banner guys, banner. It looks awesome would love to know how you did the transition from the black the the green. It looks almost splattered on it.
Yes, you can put Contrast Paints and similar transparent paints in an airbrush. However they won't behave the same as their intended purpose. They're meant to sink into the recesses, heavily saturate those but also provide a tint the raised surfaces. If you run it through an airbrush it will just act like a standard filter and mainly tint the raised portions.
Great tip on finding stopping points, hadn't thought about that. Sometimes its a panic to get all the surfaces coated at once to avoid the stain edges.
AMAZING video. I love your style and delivery, and it’s just the right amount of tips and tricks as you go. You’ve really hit your stride! Nice job and thank you for making and sharing this!
I saw this and loved the colour scheme, so I went all in on following the guide. I'm now at 15 clanrats painted, averaging about 45 mins per rat and am really pleased with how they look. The only change I made is using the flesh mix on most of the faces to help them stand out more at a distance.
So many great artists and painters on RU-vid and your another one of them. I love your gritty style and as I get back into painting hope to learn a lot from your videos.
I used grey seer primer and the black templar straight from the pot, but the robes look a lot darker than yours, which have that slightly gray/blue tint. I thought I was being fairly conservative with it though. Any tips there?
You can try applying a splotch and then immediately rinsing your brush, and smoothing the paint with your damp brush. That way paint isn't continually be deposited onto the model, you're just spreading out, making a thinner/more transparent layer. But in all honesty, just being even more conservative applying the Black Templar, you should notice it become lighter. The thinner the layer of paint, the more the light under layer will show through and the lighter the black will look.
@@DarcyBonoCreations just finished my first pack of 20 clanrats in your scheme, really learned a lot but happy with the outcome! looking forward to more of your content!
Hey darcy i'm starting to paint my ork goff boyz with shirts and their many straps, what contrast paints would u recommend that doesnt blend in with their black pants?? Btw awesome painting tutorial helps a fellow ork player out
Thanks! I like to paint my Goff shirts a grungy khaki (2 drop Skeleton Horde + 1 Ratling Grime) and their buckles in either Wyldwood Brown or Cygor Brown (a red mahogany brown)
Would you be willing to do a bad moons Ork tutorial? I've watched your yellow armor tutorials and ork tutorials but seeing it together and seeing if you have a different recipe for BM ork armor would be super cool.
@SilversongNox Actually the yellow in my Ironjawz video (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-u4kjFZ-R3Ok.htmlsi=apZiN0kQm0p5a0gt) is exactly how I paint my Bad Moons armor (x.com/Darcy_Bono/status/1424790192594907139?t=9ir0PDYdzV6sfuHtBGFn3Q&s=19). Their skin is also the one from the following video (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bw0lmE_kkAg.htmlsi=0ACLitsJmFvbdmhy). So I really don't have much more to cover for them.
Yes, I've used the e.l.f concealee brush on a battle sister before. They're about the size of the nail on my little finger, so they're really super small. Priming with white scar will have minimal difference since we're painting an ivory. It will just make them look a little less grungy since white brightens whatever is placed over it and ivory (Wraithbone) increases warm color saturation.
@@DarcyBonoCreationsthank you so much! I’ll be using this then. I’ve loved watching your tutorials. I’m trying to get a ceramic look, and I think this is the closest I’ve found, especially with the warm light that aim looking for
Oh I gotcha! If you haven't seen it, you may wanna try the following method for white, but use the shade mix that I did in the WE video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UxkbEG2GwMI.html It gives a less grungy white surface.
