2011 was the year I bought my first Mosin Nagant 91/30.
Since then, like many others, I have caught the surplus bug. Not sure if it was the smell of cosmoline, or something else, but I am now completely fascinated with firearms, and it all started with one Mosin Nagant...
I have many interests, not just firearms, so don't be surprised to see videos depicting my other interests here as well. Though all of my interests revolve around keeping my hands busy, so if you are into watching this kind of stuff, please stay awhile.
Great Job!!! I just got a new 1911 double stack, beautiful firearm (MPA DS9 LOC) and I really like it. But, the Magwell is killing me. It has a notch on the rear side with sharp edges. Ideas?
@@titovegacave-reloadingenes5683 Thank you. I am not sure where the sharp edges are and what the material/finish is. Do you have pictures somewhere for me to look at?
I absolutely destroyed my first SR22 frame when reinserting the frame roll pin. I didn't use a proper roll pin punch (I had only ever seen standard solid pins before) and the end of the pin got stuck into the polymer of the frame when I was hammering it back in. This was after disassembly of the gun because I had a case rupture which knocked the slide stop spring loose. To give Ruger customer service some credit, they ended up sending me a new gun free of charge. Moral of story, 100% need the right size roll pin punches to do this. Great video, thanks
how precise do the holes' positions have to be ? would the small error cause the scope to go out of its adjustment range to align with the barrel? since you have 2 main holes to drill, I wonder how you are able to drill the holes so that they line up exactly with the existing 2 holes on the mount base? I imagine that any slight differences will make it impossible to thread in 2 bolts at the same time
How’s the trigger guard coating holding up? I’m curios because I have the Inox version with the anodized aluminum frame. How would it work in terms of the finishing once filed? Is there something protective I could add as a coating over the silver bare aluminum to match the rest of the frame?
@@Jdjfbficjenenwk3736 i sent it out to be coated by CCR Refinishing. Later I modified the frame to Vertec (videos of that process are also on my channel) and then sent the frame to Allegheny Gun Works to be stripped and hard anodized. If you are looking for something you can do at home, maybe Duracoat or Cerakote.
I don't blame you for taking it to gunsmith even though you could cut it. I've cut several Wilson/Nowlin frames with basic tools and dremel and it gets on my nerves. I should either buy the designated cutter or leave it alone I think.
Thank you! My Hi Power was made in 1943, after Germany took over the FN factory. It's really hard to find instructions for that era of internal extractor pistols. So thanks so much for such very clear directions!
I’m picking one of these up in a few days. I’m thinking about getting the steel parts kit, along with the d spring replacement. I also want to do the G mod conversion so that I can make the pistol in a de-cocker only configuration.
@@mikef1949 you want some roughness if coating. Something for finish to grab onto. What you don't want is deep scratches or scratches going in different directions. When you go from filing to sandpaper try to change stroke direction 90°. That will show you deep scratches from previous passes, on the same grit turn stroke direction 90° again. That will show you consistency. With next grit up do the same. Etc. 400 is plenty smooth and could actually be too smooth for cerakote. I am not a cerakote guy so I don't know for sure.
@@MosinVirus You're very welcome. Part of my resume as I was an industrial mechanic almost an engineer of sorts. I recognize talent when I see it. I was considering a Langley tactical trigger bar for some of my 92's, but at $80.00 each, I don't think so. I was studying the mechanism and I figured that I could fabricate an over travel stop myself. All I am looking to do is to reduce the overtravel in single action. Whenever you reset the trigger you hear the click but your fingers still travels a bit And then you have to come back to the wall. I can eliminate that By installing an overtravel device on the front of the trigger bar of some sorts that will reduce the contact time to the frame. I can either make it part of the trigger bar by building it up in that area , then reprofiling it or I can make it adjustable. If you've got any ideas I'd be glad to hear them. Again great video.
Hey, this Tisas Carry slide I just bought - the spring tunnel measures 1.2715" to 1.275" the best my calipers say. A bit over the customary 1.25" and it doesn't clear the disconnector completely so either I'll have to shorten the spring tunnel or set the frame back more. I have the frame at about the correct setback but like your conversion you did I ended up with a "step" right at the VIS. Have to file it off. What do you use to cut the spring tunnel?
you posted this when I was just a dumb kid in the third grade, and now Im using it to prep a resto project for the museum I work for, thanks for helping me get these relics back in firing order
I remember when I had my airsoft usp when I was 15 i watched your disassembly and reassembly for the safety control leaver and detent portion as it was similar. Now 6 years later im back doing my first deep clean on my USP .45, this video is a life saver and really well done. Thank you sir 👍
1. В данном видео нет русского ТТ-33 и советского ТТ-33 так же. 2. Пистолет называется Тульский Токарев-33. Писать Токарев Тульский Токарев-33, это дача ложной информации и просто неправильно. Это все равно что написать Colt 1911 Colt или Mauser 98k Mauser.
@@АркадийКлюгенштейн Да, но для того чтобы видео выходило в результатах поисков и ТТ и Токарев, нужно чтобы было написано и так и так. А ещё и Русский, или Советский, итд итп.
@@MosinVirus поисковики давно понимают запрос Tokarev Pistol и ТТ-33. Русский и советский это также разные обозначения относящиеся к разным государствам. ТТ может быть только советский ибо выпущен в СССР. А в видео вероятно венгерская копия, есть отдельный предохранитель не клейма не показаны.Поисковики дающие неправильный результат должны быть уничтожены. А то, к примеру, задашь вопрос-чья Аляска и Северо-Запад и получишь ответ что американские. А это будет ложью. Они до сих пор русские и незаконно удерживаются одним государством возомнившем себя мировым гегемоном. Горькая правда жизни...
@@АркадийКлюгенштейннезнаю как сейчас поисковики себя ведут, но сам Ютюб раньше не все находил или желал показывать. Поэтому приходилось писать больше в название и описание. Короче говоря, что имеем то имеем.
@@MosinVirus Hey is this video - 1911 Build 8 Commander 45 acp - Part 9 - Fitting and Troubleshooting the one where you cut the spring tunnel down on slide? Which one is that where you cut spring tunnel. I bought a Tisas slide and it doesn't clear the disconnector completely before adding barrel and spring. MosinVirus 82.9K subscribers Subscribe
@@alanex5225I don't believe I used a full size slide. Instead I believe I went with a commander slide. There was nothing to cut down on the slide side.
Don't try this without the pilots. I somewhat messed up one old frame without them. It will broaden this barrel channel and if you use the frame again it will likely not run smooth without a full length guide rod which I don't like.
thanks for taking the time to post this, some tips i found, first, the 2 pins that retain the sear and the trigger, are different lengths, the shorter one goes through the sear, {right to left in on these} , use a slave pin that fits loosely to help you get the pins through, i found a short screwdriver through the top of the magazine well, made getting the trigger back in a snap. i used a small punch as a slave pin
I know this video, as well as your associated disassembly video, are over 9 years old but they're phenomenally done and extremely useful. I'm an armorer across several platforms (Glock/SIG/AR-15/10, 1911s) but new to the HK world (don't know why I waited so long to get my HK USP 45). Love my new HK and your videos make the perfect companion guide. Thank you very much!
@@MosinVirus 45 commander doesn't leave room for reverse plug flange so had to remove shock buff to even come close to clearing the disconnector. Bulls suck bigtime. too crowded
I used your complete disassembly video and this one to try and fix whatever i did wrong when I installed my grayguns SRT in my 9mm USPc, for some reason when I first installed it I could only get the gun to go into safety half-cocked, full cock or uncocked it will NOT engage. Full cocked the decocker functions. no idea what the hell i'm doing wrong :(
