Hello, thank you for your work. Do you have a reference to give for single twitters? I've already changed my speakers before but I'm looking for the tweeters and their diameter. THANKS.
No it doesn’t void the warranty, changing the speakers would be considered a replacement part- it will though void the warranty on the factory fitted speakers 🙃and if any installation damages any part of the factory sound system then that too won’t be covered.
Awesome video. I'm not very hands on with this kind of stuff so I'm gonna have to pay a professional to do mine. Only got my MG4 SE last week. How much would you (or any other professional) charge for this kind of work?
Hi there, thanks for this video! Very informative. I barely know anything about car audio, so I wanted to ask, are your speakers actually 6" in diameter? I'm finding it super hard to find 6" speakers. Rather, the 6.5" size seems more commonplace. Could they actually be the same size, marketed as 6"? Or did you encounter the same issue and had to put the effort into finding 6-inchers?
Hi, thanks for the comment. They are 6.5”, I think some are labelled 6” but the actual cage measurements are 6.5” and the speaker cone is 6” and some are labelled up as 6.5” and the cone is 6”. Confusing 😵💫. The Vibes I used fit the original speaker mounts. Hope that’s not even more confusing 🫤
@@alankemp1970 Absolutely not! These sizing issues seem too normal in a lot of gadgets and trinkets nowadays, I've come to expect it hahah. Thanks for your help Alan! I've got an MG4 on the way, and it won't be a moment too soon til I'm upgrading the audio lol. Cheers from Mexico!
Cheers. It is in the dash under the tweeter, rapped in foam and wedged in the gap under the tweeter, the subtitles flashed up a bit quick for the explanation 🙃, the crossover looks like the tweeter you can see it being stuffed in just before clipping the tweeter grill back in.
This is great. Thank you so much for your hard work on this. Really appreciate. I have an SE version which does not have cabling to the rear doors. Do you think one could easily adapt your solution to add rear speakers? Do you know if the car unit would accept the extra speakers?
Hi, thanks for the comment. You can just run another set of cables directly from the fronts as a simple fix, or get a small 4 channel amplifier that connects to the front speaker output from the head unit (the controller box with all the connections is behind the glovebox)- there is a plug and play adapter from Audiotec Fischer (MATCH PP-PAM 07) that is reported to work with plug and play amps but I haven’t investigated properly yet as have been happy with the sound improvements so far.
@@alankemp1970 Thank you for your graceful suggestions. The PP-PAM 07 would basically work as a split from the front speaker output into a 4 channel amp right? This type of of amp would need to get some power from somewhere, right?
@@GuitarCry it’s a plug and play set up so is designed to take power from the main head unit and works with amps that are designed for the same set up, Vibe for instance do a small 4 channel amp for this setup. Check out (www.mgevs.com) and my thread here: (www.mgevs.com/threads/mg4-trophy-speaker-upgrade.10440/). There are other threads on here with more details about the amplifier upgrades and adding speakers to the rear of the SE.
I was in and out of hospital for a couple of years (ongoing illness) and didn’t get round to filming any footage before I modified the board with Boundmotor direct drive motors ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gqlU0k4rk3Q.htmlsi=hU9wr_NtWyo-oS3C
Hi, he outputs 620w 🙂. I’ve used the 10amp AC charging brick to charge another ev from the MG too as a test, use it as a power supply when camping for a duel hob induction cooker, blow heater and to charge up ebikes etc. Some have tested the output and claim up to 7kw is achievable. I’m planning on setting it up as a house battery to charge on the night tariff and then use it to power the house at peak times (waiting for my smart meter to be commissioned 😐)
@@alankemp1970 Hi! I really enjoy your videos (and subbed) Thank you for all the details. Regarding the output I was thinking that a load such as a vacuum would peak much higher than the normal load it's rated out so the 620W on startup probably looks like 1kW or so.. Anyway glad you have tested all these scenarios On the topic of using the car battery for the house I have the exact same intention. Using a modified Type 2 connector (using specific resistors between 2 poles) you can push the discharge to 7kW you spoke about. I also have Solar + batteries so on my end I will 1. keep my house battery topped up from the car's and have my house loads run off it 2. Recharge the car off peak (9pm-4am for me) when needed I may also recharge my house battery off the off peak eV line I think you may want to be careful if you are running the load direct to your house in regards to grounding matters. Please look into it and also please make a video about it :)
Just wondering... Why not utilize leads from the original speaker and solder new speaker to the inner side of it? This way you wouldn't need to cut the factory connector and put these orange ones...
Keeps it simple and have the ability to swap out speakers to try different set ups. Also it’s not good practice to use solder in automotive wiring as it’s prone to crack due to movement and vibration, crimping or compression termination is more suited.
@@PickyVeganBass you can get some double male/female automotive crimp connectors to replace them. I have been using the clip type I used here on my sailboat recently so had them to hand (converted it to electric drive).
Thank you for the tutorial video, will be very helpfull. Top front screw is a push fit bung: so it can't be replaced by a "regular" screw? (I'm afraid of breaking it)
That’s a great comparison thank you! I really like the MG4 as it’s a designated EV platform and is great fun to drive. The space looks surprisingly useful though, having a 26kg dog and 12 and 7 year old kids space is important
I’m thinking of getting an MG4, do fancy one for the driving dynamics they have but worried about space for 2 kids and a dog days out. Could you do a little video of the boot space for getting the dog in and out and driving with doggo in there?
Hi, unfortunately my big German Shepherd passed away in September so can’t do an accurate dog in and out video but I do have lots of photos of him in the boot and his measurements, I’ll put together a short video of him in various positions in the boot and post up later. I have some of the MG ZS and MG5 too so will make an interesting comparison. He was 75cm floor to shoulder, 95cm floor to head, 125cm nose to start of tail and a fit 44kg, sitting up he had to stoop a bit but was comfortable on long journeys (south coat to Cornwall is a regular trip an longer camping road trips) no room for anything else in the boot though.
I’ve just uploaded a short video of the pics I have of the dog in the boot as a comparison with the MG4-MG5-MG ZS as I’ve owned all three. May be helpful. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BH9V4Nz1xY8.htmlsi=4ts0h4aY4CTetK4I
Привет . У нас собака Кане Корса , 64 см в холке , весом 44 кг. Она в багажнике MG 4 чувствует себя отлично . Полку багажника оставляем дома . Привет из Испании .
is there any Signal line out for active subwoofer on the radio.. anyone know about that.. I would love to have a small activ woofer under front seats. link my only Mini Cooper had.
Hi, no aux out for subwoofer you have to take the feed from the speaker outputs to add a sub amp. The head unit (original amp) is behind the glovebox so fairly easy to access, I was going to put an amp and sub in but happy with the sound as is, I may add an amp at some point but for now the improvement in sound is really good. The sound dampening I did in the door panels makes a big difference to the bass, much fuller and with a nice clean punch, passengers think there is a sub in the system.
@@alankemp1970 did you installed lige for passanger.. i wander why they have forgot that to. and with a dark cabine and tindet windows it is really dark.
@@tommyjakobsen5504I haven’t installed a rear interior light yet, I did upgrade the front with LED bulbs and that casts more light into the rear so better. It’s on my list to do though. I did an upgrade on my MG ZS though ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Cmf2Ws9Ssco.htmlsi=kxee4QkQI6lU3L2o There are a couple of other videos on my channel two
As in the description: makes it easier to open the bonnet for a future frunk install. More convenient when topping up with washer fluid and cleaning the panels under the bonnet, just nicer and more premium feeling in general. It’s standard on most ‘luxury’ brands
They’ve been out of stock on these for over a year! I have a DIY project I started that’s planned to use two sets of these for a four wheel drive mated to 150mm pneumatics with some adapters that my friend machined up, but I need one more set of motors as the two pair I had were used on other boards thinking I’d be able to buy replacements. I gave one of those boards to a friend and the other I used and put 3,000 miles on; I’m soon to rebuild it with new bearings as I think they are shot.
They are awesome motors, I’ve upgraded the controller now to a Flipsky so have full custom options now and have dialled the regen and throttle response how I like it. I like the Cloud wheels too as makes the rough pavement round here much safer to ride. Hope they do actually start stocking them again as are a great option for different projects.
@@alankemp1970 agreed on the motors. I only wish they had more torque and could handle more than 12s. Careful with Cloudwheels: they’ve decent grip in dry, great on dirt, but on wet roads they become banana peels in an instant. Zero to full slip out with no warning. I’m currently mending a dislocated shoulder learning this first hand.
Not enough to notice any difference, keeps the car cleaner so will be slightly less drag overall but in practice no change to my efficiency is noticed on regular short or longer journeys.
Hi, yes, you can buy some universal spacers (need to be spaced to avoid the window mechanism) or cut your own from some wood or plastic to bring the speakers out to the same position as the originals. Use the original mounts as a template to get the mounting holes correctly positioned. I gutted the originals as a simpler option as we wouldn’t be reinstalling them.
Hi, thanks for watching glad it was helpful. I haven’t got round to trying an amp yet, the sound is vastly improved with this speaker upgrade so I haven’t felt the urge to get on with it. I’ll get on with some more planned projects over the next few months so will see if I can include the amp upgrade.
Hi, the speakers were new unboxed from eBay at £35 fronts £30 rears. I already had a roll of closed cell foam so around £20 worth used. Plus a few Wago connectors. £80 ish all in for me. There are links to the Vibe speakers in the description
Thanks for the great video Alan! I just finished installing the tweeters and front door speakers, it sounds so much better! I went all in with Dynamat sound dampening...spent most of the time doing that actually. Question with the rear speakers, do you know if they use exactly the same spacer/screw mounts as the front doors? I found a 3d printable spacer which works for the front, just wondering if it will be the same for the rear.
Thanks for the video! Just picked up the MG4 in Vocanic orange yesterday. Having a blast coming from a manual 09 reg i20. Its nice to know it will handle high demand items and it will save time getting the extention cable out.
I have a question about the small panel with windows button on drivers doors, I noticed yours is Gloss is that an upgrade in Trophy version? mine is the SE and it is matt black
@@alankemp1970 i do have the padding and blue stitching just the pastic looks very plain, I will try wrapping it gloss black and will see how it goes. Thanks for a reply
Very useful video, I think I will gut the original woofers and still utilise the stock connectors soldering rather than cutting into the harness to keep that 'stock' look.
Hi Alan, nice Work! But I have a question: Is it possible, that you can show how to remove and replace the plastic cover on the tailgate? I can't find a way to remove it, without damaging it... :( Would be nice! Thank you!
Could you 3D Scan it with an iphone or post some measures so that we can create a 3D Model and 3D Print some to get some space for the cables under the loading area? Thanks!
This is the Trophy model so by removing this piece the floor can only be set in the lower position so no extra space underneath. There is a foam block with the tyre pump etc under the floor that takes up all the space when in the lowest position, you can remove that to make a bit more space but not much more.
Good but don't like the music I prefer dialog the front mudgard show you removing the top plug very easily .I had to put lots of pressure on it to lever it out .
Hi Alan, Very useful video thanks. One questeion, if you had the Trophy floor in the upper positon with the storage underneath, would it be easy to access? I can't see anything mentioned about lifting the base of this model although I can see some sort of depression where I would expect a loop to be in your video.
Hi Duncan, the floor lifts up ok in the raised position and the loop handle is fed through the cutout in the floor cover, you can lift the whole floor base out with the cover still attached.
If you need the space, this is perfect... More weight however is not good for flying the MG4! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WbnGRzYvqg4.html
The led strip goes all the way round from front to back. I don’t have the ZS anymore so hopefully it’s still working well for the new owners, I have a MG4 now.
