My channel was started primarily to inspire people to repair things themselves. A few years ago it came to my attention that even grown-up men that I knew could barely do anything at all with their hands. I have even met men that did not even know how to hang a shelf, for example. Also, for many things a specialist is needed nowadays. Modern product design is also geared toward letting people do less and less themselves. Ever try to work on a new car? I remember my dad working on his old Dodge Dart whenever it needed maintenance. I primarily focus on repairing transistorized vintage audio equipment, mainly Japanese or American equipment from the 1960s to the 1980s. Here and there I might do a restoration, but that is altogether different from a repair. Also, I often try to do the repairs with basic test equipment, based on the realization that every person does not have expensive and exotic test equipment at their disposal.
I think the edit button pauses tape2 for you to sort the tape1 for next playback. Mine was my late grandfathers unit and I was never allowed to touch it.way back on the late 70s and I remember it like it was yesterday. I kept mine for sentiment as the tapes just chew up tapes now
I've that trouble on a pioneer sx-1010 tone control board, it was a 2SA725, I replaced them on both sides with ksa992, got rid of the tantalum capacitor, Matched the transistors on both sides, noise was gone.
Brother, I used my cd player for long but last time it didn’t respond, it had a button and a light, which is not responding even when I click the button, I can open it by using a small pin in the specific space but still it was not responding, what should I do?
Hi, would like to know the type & voltage of the stereo indicator light? Mine finds and plays the stereo stations, but the indicator light doesn't illuminate. Great informative video.
Hi , your video was so good. Actually i have a silver brand Turntable comes with the same mechanism. I removed the cam gear ,but timing changed . Now the tome arm is raised when it plays for 10 seconds. Can you pls mention the model of the turntable, which is demonstrated.Thanks.
hi there, the "light" button turns on the backlight behind the led-display - but its an oldfashioned fuse-like mini lightbulb with a rubber sheet over it - they re very often burned out (after 40+ years) :) PS : the display sometimes messes up...but most often a "reset" fixes the problem - by taking out , leaving out for a few minutes and putting back the 3 AA batteries in the tube behind the D-cells :) that resets the whole thing. In my experience it solves the lcd-display issue in about 1 out of 3 times. A greaaaaat device !
I bought mine in early 2000s and it is still with me, working good) Yesterday I picked it up from my old house and now listening for the tape) The CD tray comes out but comes back only manually, but other than that everything works as it should without any maintenance which is really surprising for me after 20 years.
I would try to clean the the contacts with a contact spray. With the power off, of course. Spray and then work the buttons a number of times. In fact, I would do that to all controls/buttons.
Thanks. Really not too much you can do. It's probably got one of those old mechanical type governors it it doesn't have a hole or some kind of potentiometer set-up on a board. Make sure the capstan/flywheel isn't binding, make sure the pinch roller isn't binding, and your belts aren't worn, especially it they have been in there for decades. Not sure if this applies you, but If the belts have been in there for so long, why are they still in there? And also make sure to try different cassettes.
Great restoration and what a patience, surely needed. About carbon track cleaning: alcohol or contact cleaner wouldn’t soften the carbon film, making it easier to be scratched off by the normal operation of the sliding/rotating contacts? Thanks for sharing! P.S.: I can’t imagine why someone would glue all potentiometers - this is crazy.
Thanks for commenting, sir. I didn't have problems cleaning this because I worked gently. You could remove the carbon if you rubbed too hard. What has your experience been? The spray seems to have no adverse effects. That was a bizarre case of glue in the sliders. Although it was a few years ago, that boombox seemed quite worn out. Sorry that I didn't write so quick, but I am not on RU-vid very much at the moment
Hey, I have a Scott R-376 and when I turn the volume up slightly, the audio shuts off. I can play it at a very low volume, but when I go to turn up even 1 click, audio shorts out. A fuse would not allow any audio if it was bad, right? Any ideas?
You should clean the volume control for starters. Spray it while the power is off, off course. Sorry, takes me a while to respond, since I am barely on RU-vid nowadays.
Is an audio generator the same as a signal generator? I'm needing to get sound to come off of speakers I'm testing. What would you recommend me to get to get audio out of speakers? Thank you.
As the name "audio generator" implies, it puts out audible frequencies, that is, what the human ear can hear. A signal generator can go much higher in frequency. Not needed for your purpose. I would try to get a used solid-state audio generator, maybe from ebay. One of the major manufacturers such as Heathkit, Leader, HP, etc. Seems like you are just looking for something real basic.
And what voltage comes on the meter lamp sir? Is it 6.3 volts and what is the oruginal fuse type lamp's spec? Is it 8 volt 40mA? Tuning lamps (5 of them) are 8 volts 20mA for the old ones and the new LEDs are 8 volts 200mA? Am I right? Both lamp circuits are 6.5 volts?
I have the same amp and I need a solution to replace of the 5+1=6 dial bulbs. I think the voltage for the lighting circuit is 6.3 volts for my 110 volt Marantz 2215B amplifier. The old bulbs were 8 volt 200mA. I live in europe so the voltage here is 220 volt. And the cycle is not 60hz, it is 50hz. So should I go for LEDs that are in the video or SMD type leds? Should I wire 3 Leds on a board and use a resistor? Please help sir. Kind regards
Notice the two piece volume knob instead of a balance knob. They are friction bound together and rotate as one but can be adjusted individually to favour left or right channel with a little force.
Don't even remember this video, but could be, although I do have a discharge resistor. This was probably a small, low voltage cap. In the old days (when I first went to television repair school), we used to use screwdrivers. Nowadays you would have a 100 people on RU-vid chastizing you.
I’ve finished repairing a Marantz PM00AV and both modules were blown. I replaced them from a Chinese supplier and it’s been on the bench for a few weeks run up daily with no issues. The gout who sold me the amp was probably aware that he had dropped it. The amp fell on the volume pot, smashing it off its daughter board and breaking the board itself. My feeling is it put full power into both inputs and that’s what blew it. The chips themselves have the circuit for dc sending and dropping a relay, so each models has a speaker protection circuit as it’s a Dolby surround amp. Anyway, I remade the fibreglass board and bridge the tracks where broken and repaired the pot- which is 50k 4 gang with motor- so rare as rocking-horse.
Thanks for the explanations ! i rebuilt a GF-8989 which is the same mecanism ! The pinch roller was stuck. With your video : i managed to repair it ! Thanks a lot !
I haven't had the luck of getting a GF-777 since they are so expensive. I would take a GF-777 before I take a GF-9797. The power output of the GF-777 should be higher. And overall a classier and better unit. This is just my personal opinion; no doubt there are some people that probably think otherwise.
Just bought the Tenma 72-540 which is basically the same exact unit. Brand new in the box with probes but no manual. Anybody have a copy? Not that you really even the manual to use one .....but I'd like it to be a complete set since I have a brand new one.
Unfortunately, I only have a paper copy of a small manual for the Sansei and it is in the German language. I don't think even that it is an original manual since the pages are stapled, I believe. But as you might have noted, the unit is really easy to use.