GCN I am a fan of your channel, yet why do you advertise items in USD and not in British pounds? Surely you should advertise the currency where you purchased the items?
3 to 4 thousand gets you the best value. Usually at that price point you get excellent wheels and electronic shifting etc.. At 2 thousand you usually get heavier wheels and entry level groupsets. Anything above 4 thousand and the gains become more and more marginal for a lot more money, making it no longer a good value if that's what you care about
I would reckon somewhere between 300 and 1000, as like 2000 won't be twice as good If you compare times to your 150€ bike and then divide the extra money spend by the seconds saved I guess you will end up with the best bang for your buck upgrade in this price range!
Exactly right. When I played basketball, I was never worried about the guy with the new Jordan's, it was always the guy with the beat up Converse high tops that was about to embarrass you.
Interesting comparison! It's wild to see the differences between a $150 bike, a $1,500 bike, and a $15,000 bike. 🚴♂ But managing the cost for such hobbies can be tricky. With a proper financial advisor like Margaret Ellen Whitlock, you could budget smartly and maybe even save up for that $15,000 dream bike! 🤑💼
Since I’m not going to complete with anyone, I think that 150 dollar bike is the perfect one. It looks the best in my opinion, it’s also least likely to get stolen and it goes fast. I’d honestly think that 150 bucks is the best deal. For ten minute ride and only 17 seconds slower than the 15k bike… gosh… 17 seconds means nothing in my casual life
I bought a 21" 1970s Rotrax frame, shipped it over to Canada, and tricked it out with cheap aluminum wheels, 2x9S and brifters. I think it's faster than my carbon frame bike. It weighs 9.3 kg with bottle cage, bell, computer, and lights.
Just toss some new wheels on there with some sane gearing. You can cold set or just spread the dropouts for wider spacing. Would love to see them do a full resto-mod where they put a modern groupset on a quality steel frame and compare it against higher end bikes. Surely they can find an old dura-ace mechanical groupset in a bin...
That Peugeot is a beaut. New cables, pads, chain, good deep clean, bar tape etc, and it would be a great commuter and/or bad weather beater. Got an 84 Claud Butler that does the same job. Wouldn't "upgrade" it for what it does for anything.
Why not? If money is not a problem, go for it. I've spent more than 10k on my Scott Foil and completely loving it. Few months prior to that, I bought a Giant SCR 1 just to see if I'd like the road cycling (never done it before). The difference between the two is night and day (coming from a complete beginner)
@@masterfan0good work. A lot of hair-shirt nonsense in the cycling world. I've no intention of being the richest corpse in the graveyard so I spend more than I "need" to on some things.
The Peugeots with Reynolds 501 tubing that were selling in the mid 80s for 250 British pounds were fantastic bikes. I just bought a second one the other day. Amazing workmanship and no significant deterioration in the last 40 years.
I have had a couple Peugeuts that I've converted to a fixie and single speed. The ride quality is compliant. And I'd love to have another. The fixie model I gave to a buddy who still rides it. I doubt a modern carbon frame will last as long as those old Peugeuts do.
This video made me want a vintage steel Peugot. You’ve successfully demonstrated that it’s such a great value! And it will probably still be logging mile after mile long after those carbon fibre frames have cracked and been sent to the trash heap. Thanks, GCN! 🙏
good choice. i got a 1978 px8 with a luggage rack and fenders and rode 2 full seasons with it. just a perfect thing, and if you train enough you can take on those with a newer bike ;)
My everyday around-town beater is a 1982 Miyata two-ten. It cost about $250 new, and given its current state with various upgrades (e.g. down-tube shifters became bar-ends about 20 years ago), I could probably get that much for it now, so it's held its value well. Plus it's nigh on indestructible: I've averaged ~2500 miles/year on it. The only things wrong with it are its weight and its age, but those are a problem for its rider as well.
While everyone in comments laments the proper currency, legitimacy of the "science", about how GCN can never do anything right, and disposes of any sense of fun, I'll be in the corner dreaming of a world where 4.5w/kg is something I could manage. Just give me the Peugeot.
The funniest thing I’ve heard lately was a cycling buddy who rides seriously in and around London. Every weekend end he sees guys with 10 grand bikes and 50p legs! I laughed so hard!
The Peugeot you have was exclusive to Halfords in 1986 and 1987 when the ANC Halfords team was racing. Frame is HLE Cro-Mo. Gears are Huret Eco friction. My ANC Halfords Peugeot version is Reynolds 531 Pro. Campagnolo Athena group with Ergoshift 8 spd and Campag Khasmin hoops. My Pug is 9.75 kg.
Here’s an idea for a versus video: expensive frame/cheap group set/cheap wheels vs cheap frame/expensive group set/cheap wheels vs cheap frame/cheap group set/expensive wheels. I know there’ll be some issues like expensive frames only being compatible with top end electronic group sets etc, but I think GCN can make it happen.
Well actually it's often the case that the expensive bikes have the same frame as the mid-range, but with more expensive equipment... Unless the price points are really far apart. I.e a frame set that costs 5k+ is obviously not the same frame as a 1.5k bike.
As we already know at this point, buy the expensive bike if you think it's cool and you have money, if you don't just train more and you will be as fast as the others.
But then again, you do need a bit of investment to go quick. I've got a relatively nice aluminium bike, what one would call a "gravel bike" these days. It has huge potential for going fast, but as my father commented, "it feels like the tyres are deflated". Better tyres make a massive difference in how much of your power goes towards speed or how much is wasted fighting rolling resistance.
Thanks for doing this comparison with values converted to US Dollars guys! I’ve got a 1985 Bianchi Limited that cost me $600 when I bought it new back then. I’ve put thousands of miles on it over the years, keeping up with the carbon kids until 2016 when I finally broke down and bought a new Trek Emonda, carbon fiber bike for around $4,000 and last December my wife bought me a new Trek Madone for around $5,000, it’s got disc brakes, my first road bike with discs and I LOVE it! I don’t think I’ll ever have the money or riding time to justify a $15,000 bike but it’s fun to see how the cheaper bikes stack up with the top of the line stuff. Like you said at the end of the video, just getting out there to ride and have fun is what’s really important! Keep up the great work!
I'm new to cycling but have played guitar for decades, and I think there are marked similarities in quality of equipment vs price with guitars and bikes. There seem to be break points along the scale: anything £100-£350 gets bog standard, £450-£1000 is a big step up then £1500 upwards there are further gains to be had but much more marginal in comparison. Super helpful to see these videos though and have some context put on that theory!
Guitar player and new cyclist here too. Totally agree. $1k gets a great guitar or a great bike. More than that and you'd need to be an expert to feel or use the difference. IMO.
That's true! The differences between entry level bikes is often much bigger than those found on top of the line bikes. For those that race the marginal gains can be super important 👀
I'm still curious, what happens if you add small upgrades to the Peugeot: second-hand brake shifters, some better gearing (2x8) and maybe a lighter handlebar and seatpost
It would be shed loads faster with more suitable gearing and decent wheels and tyres. I've had these things as training bikes in the past, they are a bit stodgy . A better comparison would be a mid priced 80s road bike with 531 frame and decent period parts..
Miracles happen, been there, done that! Great fun to ride a vintage bike with upgrades, shear pleasure alone gives you at least 50W extra for power output. Well, didn't go exactly the weight-weenie way, valued variety of choice of 31.8 handlebars instead. I think 1" quill-stems with 26mm a-head style clamp and 26mm compact/anatomic handlebars should become a thing, a-head adapter setup adds easily fair amount of weight.
I've just done that with my 30 years old steel bike. Originally it was all Exage 300 groupset, downtube shifters, 19mm tyres {13mm inner rims). Now it's on Tourney brifters, 12-28 cassette, Claris derailleur, compact 50/34 Claris cranks. New 28mm tyres on 17mm inner shimano wheels, new cheap promax brakes to accommodate those. It's now fully capable, comfortable and solid bike, rides beautifully 👍
If we take the Van Rysel EDR CF 105 Disc for 2150€ and add a good set of wheels you have a beast of an bike. Overall the Ultegra version for 2749€ is also not bad at all and most rider wont even need to upgrade the wheels. ~7.7kg with discs is insane at this price point.
Agree...I've been riding my Van Rysel EDR CF 105 for just over a year now...love the bike. Have not changed the wheels yet still comparing cost to benefit on that; the stock Fulcum 600's are not that bad. Changing the tubes to latex andI may change the 25mm tires to a better set of 28mm.
I remember back in the late 1990s when you could buy a road bike ready to race for $1,500. You would get an aluminum frame with race geometry, Shimano Ultegra groupset and of course aluminum wheels with 700 x 23 clincher tires. I raced on a Fuji Team bike, Then a Cannondale Cad series frame with Shimano Dura Ace 7700 . Cyclists didn't need to mortgage their house for a race bike.
Love this idea! The cost of repair for the Peugeot can't be more than the $150 replacement value. The cost for the Pinarellos.....well, lets not go there.
Something you don't mention is that you can get an excellent bike for relatively low outlay by restomodding something like that Peugeot. By far my most used bike is a 1973 Mercian kitted out with 10 speed Shimano Ultegra, which I built myself for around £300 in total. It's not a race bike, but it keeps up with club runs and audax events easily and has occasionally shown a clean pair of heels to considerably more expensive and modern bikes. I'd climb over the Pinarellos to get to the Peugeot, personally!
Video idea suggestion: How to plan a route I think GCN has done videos about routing before, but they are pretty general. I suggest demonstrating how riders can choose routes in city, countryside, and mountain areas. Of course every place has different features and infrastructure, but it would be another good chance to show off features from Strava (or Komoot etc) as well as any other useful tools/sites for scouting safe, interesting routes and amenities. I imagine a presenter, perhaps Manon or Conor, sitting down with a goal routing A to B (or A to A) in each of the 3 areas. Then going through how they vet it for cycling access, and then go do it. Finally, concluding with what went well or what to change for next time. (Alternatively, have 3 presenters each plan a route their way and then show it off.)
The implicit assumption Sai makes at the end of the video is that 'more speed' is always worth it. The issue is that I reckon most people don't get paid for 'speed' and are more into experience cycling provides. There are some creature comforts a modern bike provides - like brifters or more gearing options - but put some Sora on the Peugeot and I'd ride it until it falls apart.
@@gcn My biggest comfort was riding an old steel bike with a leather Brooks saddle. I just cannot see myself putting a Brooks saddle on my Specialized bike of 2016 :-D If I could I would, although, I'm very happy as well with the Specialized saddle :-)
I agree with $2000. I started with a $1200 bike and as things wore out I put upgraded components on it. I’m still running a Shimano 105 group set and it works like butter. I’m 22,000 miles in and still a soul love my alloy frame bike.
The winner of this year's Giro on the $150 bike could smoke your every day rider on the $15,000 bike in any race no matter the distance. It's the fool with the tool in most cases
Not the point. If a more expensive bike gives a person a better riding experience and he or she is willing to pay for it, then why not go for it? Just because it won't make one competitive with a professional does not mean there's no point.
@@Ostsol where in my comment did I ever say that somebody who has the money shouldn't acquire the $15,000 toy? The point of the video was comparing an expensive bike versus an inexpensive bike and results, but since you chimed in I will let you know that for the average every day rider in many cases the geometry of a bike makes a huge difference in comfort. I will agree that the Pinarello might be a super comfortable laid-back bike that The every day rider can go out for a five hour ride, but it's been again there are some expensive bikes that are extremely uncomfortable for those who don't basically do over 300 miles a week on their bike and they could be quite sketchy depending on the rake of the fork And for a weekend warrior they might find it an extremely capable race bike a little too sketchy than a $1000 bike, but by all means if somebody has money to burn and they want to use their bike as a laundry hanger, then go for it, I think the boys in the video proved my point PS please excuse my grammar, English is my third language so some of what I said might not come out the way I meant it to And I just started learning English in February
No, not that model in the video. Its a mid range bike from the period. I would have liked to see them use a better 80s Peugeot bike. It would have narrowed the gap even further.
Agreed. I see a sweet spot around ten years old (2012 to 2014). Great carbon frames from the likes of Specialized, but with standard headsets and seat tubes. External cabling. Well under $1000 where I live. Any performance deficit compared to the latest $15K bikes is negligible.
@@gcn Yes, but lets be honest. Cycling - as much as we all love it - is a sport that many people try to get into but it fails to take hold in their lives. Consequently, millions of garages around the world have nice bikes sitting in them almost completely unused. These frequently come on to the market at one third their original market price. That's where I would look for the best value.
My favorite price point is about $750, and then replace the tires/tubes, and maybe the wheels. With friction shifters you can put any number of gears on that you want by just changing the chain.
Picked up a used Trek Madone 5.9 2014, £500. Full Dura Ace 9000 (even the cassette) in mint condition. Brand new Michelin Pro4 service course tyres! Bargain of the year, and more smiles per mile than just about any other form of transport. It's about the experience, not the entry cost. Be savvy and get a bargain - they're out there! Consistently in top 25% of Strava timed results in my area. 95% legs and 5% bike 😉
I think the biggest difference in this video were the shifters. STI shifters with proper indexing are just way more advanced and safer than any bottom tube shifters. STI shifters give the rider much more confidance to actually use the full range of the bike's gears.
I use both kinds of shifter. Down tube friction shifters are much better, in every way. Except. Riding on sti hoods is generally more comfortable than old brake lever hoods
I definitely think 3k is an optimal 'sweet spot' for a performance road bike versus price. At that price level; the difference is mere seconds between the super bike and the lesser alternative. Additionally, and only in my experience; Dura Ace/Red level components don't have the long-term-durability that the Ultegra/Force level does and considering the price difference in things like cassettes and chains, long-term maintenance costs factor in quite heavily as well. So for me, something along the lines of a mid-range SuperSix or Ultimate SL and the latest Ultegra groupset would be optimal. (plus I'm no where near the level of a pro so for us 'mortals' a super bike is fine if you have the disposable income. otherwise; the mid-range performance option is hard to beat.)
I have been in the factory of Pinarello. Pinarello these days isn't much more than a design house. So even a legit Pinarello is for 90% a (non-fake that is) Chinarello. Not that I have a problem with that but their prices are astonishingly laughable!!!😂😂😂
Sure but you could say that about everything couldn’t you? A single person owning a house with 7 bedrooms? When I started cycling, the idea of £3k on a bike was ridiculous
@@jamesbull9879your right things like these are status symbols more than anything else. Does anyone need a car that can go over 250mph. A 15,000 watch? £10,000 jackets. If you can afford it you can afford it.
Bought the 82.50 bike in red no question better value than any other bike there is, it has wheels when you engage the pedals it moves, when it brakes…it eventually stops….Pogacar hear me!
The mechanical ultegra is underrated. I have a cannondale synapse, the same set up with a 32 cassette. Not as fast as my sl8 tarmac pro, but it's so much more enjoyable and practical for everyday riding.
@desmoMarco91 they're designed with completely different mindsets. The Tarmac Pro is meant for Racing. It forces the rider to be in an aero position. it really flies, but it is really stiff. The synapse (over 10 years old now) is built alloy and I can ride more comfortably, and it attacks hills SO MUCH EASIER! Plus, roads are horrible where I am, so it is way smoother.
No question. Not nearly worth it, but has to be the prettiest bike in the world. Italians and their flare for design...same with their motorcycles and cars.
I was climbing up a 700 meter climb-7 to 12% grade, that went on for 10 km-on my $4,500 bike when two guys blew by me on (beautiful) vintage bikes. When I got to the summit I met up with them. One was 72 years old and the other was 81! I’m only 70. On the other hand, they turned around and went back down. But I kept going another 65 km. These guys were ex-pro riders and only four years ago I was an overweight old man who could barely walk from the bathroom to the car in the morning without getting winded, but even still, I don’t suppose they would have been happy on those high end vintage bikes for a much longer ride. A price point? I’ve spent a lot of money making my bike more comfortable for climbs and long rides: I’ve changed the chain ring, the pedals once, the seat twice, the handlebars once and the tape many times, along with spending hundreds of dollars on a fitting. It’s all dialed in now. I’ve had this bike 3 years now and the longest ride was 220 km. So I have to say: $4500.
Im American and new to this channel. You guys are awesome. I have now have a renewal in my interest in bikes. Thank you! My current bike is aluminum (Klein XV) and i love it, but i just bought a vintage Raleigh to convert for touring. Great channel and keep the videos coming 🎉😂
Biking has gone from an affordable sport for those with modest means to something that requires far too much $$$. I purchased 2 bikes, a road bike and trail bike, three or four years ago. Steel frames, mechanical disc brakes and rim brakes, 105 level 11s drive trains, Hunt wheels. I'm no longer in the market for new bikes. Lost any desire to lay out the kind of cash needed to upgrade or even stay current. The industry has jumped the shark.
lol I picked up one of those Peugeots from our local tip recycle store for £20. I can’t see either of those Pinerellos being functional in 30/40 years but that Peugeot will still be going even then.
Great video comparison. The question for most will be, is the Pinarello Dogma F really worth the price for the average club rider or even racer particularly considering the sort of environment it's going to be exposed to, rain and mud etc., here in the UK. I think many who do buy will use it as a dry weather bike, and for much of the year will have it stored where they can ogle it but not use it. Where's the fun in that. One additional point, next time can we also have the price put up in £ and €. Would make it more useful given you've an international audience, but are based here in the UK.
Idk what it is but everyone you guys post a video regarding a certain topic, 90% of the time that exact topic is the problem I’m going through right now. I contemplated selling my factor ostro cause someone on a $200 road bike dropped me so hard
I have a similar Pinarello (Quattro), bought it for a steal and absolutely love it. Perfect for my needs and skill level and looks beautiful in all black carbon. I’m by no means a pro cyclist so I’d look like a poser on a $15k bike!
I think you all are on the right track, because mid range bikes and used parts can vary in price. The mid range Pinarello with better tires, latex tubes and narrow/aero handle bars would be faster and could be had for 500 pounds or so. Better wheels could be had for another 3-6 pounds. Something like the Hed Ardennes that are light and have a wider rim profile (both internal and external) would roll really well on your roads and of course allow you run 25mm tire at there optimized shape. Not sure that generation of Pinarello will run an optimized 28mm?
@@gcn No one needs to send me anywhere! Not being primarily a cyclist, I am not limited to roads and trails and paths, and can cut cross-country wherever and however I want!
I'm just an average rider, and all I need is a good bike. With so many old school bikes readily available for dirt cheap, I can now get into a much better bike than I could have previously... all thank to those other weekend warriors who feel the need for speed on a new, overly expensive bike -- chucking their old bikes out for new one -- I'm saving money and I get a really good old bike that provided me with all the exhilaration I'll ever need for thousands less.
I rode around on a Peugeot frame just like that one for years and had loads of fun doing so, though I ditched the down-tube shifters. People would always comment what a beautiful bike it was. However a more modern bike is just better in every possible way. But do you really have 10 times more fun if you spend 10 times more money? I wouldn't say so.
To get back into cycling my Frankenbike is a 25 year old 4130 steel hybrid thrown together with cheap Alex road wheels and a pair of clipless pedals. It's perfectly fine for getting my legs turning cranks again on local diabolical roads I've now a 'pre-owned' Cinelli Nemo with SRAM mechanical and alloy clinchers sitting around, for dry roads and better weather. It reminds me of my SLX & 853 of yore. Let's admit, the overwhelming resistance we face as cyclists is not weight or rolling but wind. No amount of spending obscenely silly money on "aero" wheels and the like makes that much of a difference there to the keen amateur. Drafting vehicles or a Sunday group has a bigger effect on your speed! Everything else is posing, unless you've legs like Obree or Lemond.
I suppose if I had a spare 10K to drop on a new "superbike" I would still opt for a bargain machine in the 2 to 3K range that offers modern shifting, is comparatively light, and handles awesome.
It was bikes like the Peugeot that killed Schwinn in America decades ago when I was growing up as many young boys were gifted Schwinn bikes by their parents...like the Varsity and Continental and rich kids maybe a Paramount. Road bikes out of Europe were much lighter and therefore faster and became more desirable among better riders. I own and ride a bike like the mid level older Pinarello but a Specialized and can keep up with most riders on $10K bikes who are my friends. If I felt it would be worth upgrading, I would. Difference in bikes in your test seems to comport with reality. Thanks for the video, entertaining and informative. PS. Alex is a beast on the sprint but I think Patrick was holding back a bit. Just a guess.
I had a Schwinn Varsity in Jr. High. Bright yellow with black bar tape that my parents purchased new from the local dealer. I loved it. No quick releases, but I put on some fancy chrome wing nuts...LOL. I loved that bike and put on a few miles until I got my driver's license. I knew it was a couple of levels down from the Continental or the Paramount but didn't care. It wasn't until I went to a wealthy high school that I found out that there were other bikes that were miles ahead, and there were other group sets like Campy out there but still couldn't afford them. Now my main road bike cost 6X what I paid for my first car and have two others to play with as well, one is a vintage, steel one with a Campy group set. I smile the whole time no matter which one I'm riding.
I do enjoy my vintage bikes, but they are the high end ones that I couldn't afford as a young fellow. Lovely bikes and are fast enough for the club rides. Everyone has to make their own choices regarding budget and value. I would hope that the top bikes would be reserved for top level competition, though. I hate seeing non-competitive folks spending big money just to be slightly faster than their friends. I do appreciate the video confirming that the differences between the bikes are really not that great, especially compared to the prices. The mid-price bike really does represent a nice balance between value and performance.
When GCN was testing, what setup is better for cobbled roads, one commenter wrote about last weekend ride on cobbles with his/her steel bike and 23 mm tire width. Most of discussed in the video challenges were not applicable for that ride. Like long rides and wont them smooth? Go steel.
I know you boys are international superstars but pounds sterling will keep us lot watching . Plus don’t dump that wonderful Peugeot in the hedge . Respect all bicycles. P.S , Simon you’re always my hero. ✌🏻
What about spec for spec? Like the cheapest with hydraulic brakes, cheap carbon deep wheels, cheapest say Sram wireless shifting etc vs a "superbike" with the most expensive versions of the same spec?
I’d like to see a restomod on the Peugeot with better bearings, faster shifting, better tires and see what kind of time increases you can get with a nice overhaul.
Because I am on a very fine 22 speed GRX and never have tried electronic shifting i can not imagine what I could gain from electronic shifting. If I was full of money I might buy carbonwheels.
I wonder when they're going to do a video comparing how much fun they have on different bikes. I thought that's why we all rode bikes, for our health and to have fun? I mean, how many of you are getting paid to race bikes? And if you are, you don't have to buy your bike to begin with, so I don't get it. Is 7 seconds on a local club ride why you'd spend $15,000 on a bike, or is it just to impress other people? If you want to impress people, you'd think that outracing them on an aluminum bike with a basic group set would do the trick, right? Because if you're riding a bike that costs more than $10k and you get dropped all the time, that's not impressive, that's embarrassing.
I don't know if you watched the whole video, but they say exactly that: you can have lots of fun on all bikes. And one main reason to buy a 15k bike is simply because you like it, whether it's because of how it looks or feels, or because it makes you 0.01% faster. If you like it and can afford it, I don't see it as a bad thing. I think something you might be missing is that some people just try to get the most out of themselves and get fun from improving compared to themselves, not to others or trying to get paid or turn pro. I'm faaaaaar from a great rider, but I get very excited every time I beat a PR. Can't afford a 15k bike, but I just got a couple latex inner tubes to see if I can trim a couple of seconds on my favorite route 😂
Different people ride for different reasons: fun, health, commuting, competitiveness, stress relief. I'd bet some even do it because they like to suffer!
@@edgarbran9822 I agree, I ride for all those reasons myself. The problem I have with the bike industry is the same problem I have with the golf industry and other elitist industries. They make people think that the equipment makes all the difference. A more expensive, lighter, more aero bike will make you way faster. A set of the most expensive clubs will shave 20 strokes off your game. It's all bs. And channels that affirm that notion are a big part of the problem. You may or may not sub to Cade Media, or Trace Velo, but these are channels dedicated to getting as many people on good, quality bikes as possible without breaking the bank. That to me is a sign of a good channel. Teach me how to train properly (Bulletproof Cycling), teach me how to work on my bike, and show me how to get the most out of my dollar when it comes to buying a bike. Now that philosophy may not be for everyone, and that's fine. But I'll keep spreading the word, and that is that it's not the bike, it's never been the bike, it'll never be the bike.
I bought my current bike back in 2005 for 1300 uk pounds , a Giant TCR -1 and I still ride it… and found it to be super to ride compared to anything else up to that point. I would say you would need to spend 3-4 thousand uk pounds to get to a point where you or I would say the same again
It reminds me of when Supershoes started hitting the market in running. 2-3% performance gains for dropping $270 on a pair of shoes. I've stayed away from it. I can get significantly better just by training and eating better.
If you're riding solo, as long as the bike is functionally safe, does it matter? You could get a good workout on any of the bikes, you'd just go a little further and faster on the nicer ones but riding solo does that matter?
I bought a 2014 trek domane full carbon ultegra for £200 waiting to decide what I'll buy new probably next year. Not as good as the rental pinarello prince i had in France last weekend but not that far. There's a lot of value in those bikes no longer considered competitive by those who race.
I think if I got this right and its a bit ironic as well but I believe Peugeot bikes still has been ridden to the most tour de france victories. So some respect is in order! Lol
I would suggest a more useful comparison is between NEW bikes of different price points: the superbike vs a £300 bike from Halfords vs a £1500-2000 bike from any good brand. This way its a comparison that will help someone in the market for a bike. The second hand Pinarello wasn't £1500 when new so I can't expect to get the same bike for that money, at least not without patience and luck. And if I'm spending £1500-2000 on a bike I'd prefer the confidence that it is new rather than hoping its been looked after properly.
I have to tell you the Peugeot you were laughing at is still one of the fastest steel bikes ever produced. I have taken podium place with it even on an uphill time trial! That is why you were feeling you were going fast. It is fast the time on the flat says it all. With two good wheels and nothing else on it would still fly
Everytime I see someone sit on their top tube, I think about my friend who said it is perfectly fine to do it as it’s built for that…… 😂 Crack as he sat on it
