$1500...down the DRAIN?? (Nissan Alternator Saga -Part 1) 

I spent 1500 on marriage counseling. Still ended in divorce. 🤣🤣

While waiting for some liquid electrical tape to dry I looked at the service manual for my 2013 Infiniti, which has a VQ37 series engine. That's the successor to the VQ35 engine in the Maxima in the video. Based on the description in the service manual, the charging system on my Infiniti is very similar or perhaps even identical to the one in that Maxima. For the comments below, I will assume that the Maxima behaves the same way as my Infiniti. I found a few interesting pieces of information that I'll put in here, in case anyone else is chasing a similary problem on a Nissan with this type of smart charging system. 1. The diagnostic work flow for the alternator starts with a "preliminary inspection" of the charging system, which includes checking the battery terminal fit, relevant fuses, alternator ground harness (E) connection, and drive belt tension. I think it's safe to assume that Ivan performed these checks. (Some of them off camera.) 2. Step 2 is to disable the smart charging system. It provides 2 ways to do that, one is setting the alternator duty PID to 0% via a bidirectional control in the scan tool, while the other is to disconnect the battery current sensor connector (after turning off the ignition, of course). FWIW, I think it makes sense to check the alternator with the smart charging system disabled. If you find a problem, then it needs to be taken care of before worrying about the smart charging system. I think everything in the video was done with the smart charging system off, which would explain why Ivan never saw a PWM signal on pin 4 at the alternator. We saw in the scan tool that the alternator duty pid was at 0%. According to the service info: "When the [ALTERNATOR] DUTY value is 0 or 100 %, the normal power generation is performed according to the characteristic of the IC voltage regulator of the alternator." Since we saw in scan data that the duty value was at 0%, it would be normal for the intelligent charging function to be turned off. Of course we don't know why the alternator duty value was at 0%. That is an important question, but it doesn't stop further diagnosis of the charging system without the smart control function. See point number 5 below for a possible reason that the smart charging system is off. 3. The diagnostic tree in the service info implies that a failure on the battery lamp circuit can prevent the alternator from charging, although it doesn't give any details. If that is true, then it is very important information, because we saw that the battery light was not on, even when the charging voltage was 10.7 V. Is that a clue as to the root cause of the charging sytem failure? That's an open question. In any case, I would be interested to see what is going on at pin 2 on the alternator. If the alternator is intermittently not grounding pin 2 when the voltage is low, then why not? I there a failure inside the alternator or an intermittent failure of the external alternator ground, which would, of course, also prevent the alternator from charging the battery? Maybe put a scope on pin 2 to see whether the alternator is commanding the battery light on, and another lead of the scope on the alternator case, to see if there is a good ground there at all times, or if there an excessive voltage drop relative to the ground at the battery? If the alternator is commanding the charging light on, but the lamp is not illuminating, then there must be an intermittent problem somewhere else in the lamp circuit that IMO should be fixed before going on with further testing of the alternator and charging system. 4. The second battery feed via the 10-amp fuse that is connected to pin 3 at the alternator is the sense wire used by the alternator's internal voltage regulator to know what voltage the alternator is outputting. This is separate from the smart charging system that is external to the alternator. Note that this internal voltage regulator is used by the alternator to decide whether to turn on the battery light on the dash, so a problem with the voltage regulator could also explain why that warning light is not always on when the voltage is low. According to service data, the alternator's internal voltage regulation system is controlled by a CPU that will regulate the alternator output at 14.1 - 14.7 volts when the smart charging system is disabled, based on the voltage it sees on the sense wire (pin 3). (This would be the default strategy that Ivan talked about in the video.) 5. There is a note in the service data that says, "Adjustment range of power generation voltage variable control is 11.4 - 15.6 V." ("Power generation voltage variable control" is Nissan's name for the smart charging system on these vehicles.) I'm not sure if that only means that the smart charging system will try to maintain 11.4 - 15.6 volts, or that it will actually be disabled if the voltage gets outside of that range. One way to test that, would be to use the Topdon battery maintainer to hold the system voltage at various values inside and outside of the 11.4 - 15.6 volts range while watching for activity on the command wire on pin 4. I'm sure that the liquid electrical tape is good and dry by now, so back to my own tasks. I hope this information is helpful.

its always a good idea to volt drop all wiring and grounds under load and i'd fix that plug before i stuffed an alternator on.

I just did a three alternators on a 15 Nissan quest two aftermarket both quit within the first day, finally got one from the dealer it’s been good for a week so far from what I remember the service information said the alternator was supposed to put out 6.5 V on the control wire and the IP DM should have a square wave grounding the signal. If you could go into some explanation on your second video on this would be appreciated. Hope you have a great day.

When I worked at a Nissan dealer we replaced many alternators under a recall on Maximas (pre 2010). Nissan said to discharge AC and remove compressor. We just unbolted them from the engine and let them hang from the hoses. Job took about an hour.

If you remove the upper rad hose, the fans and move the o2 sensor and perhaps loosen dipstick tube you can get the alternator out from the top... not a fun job but I've done a few of those and NEVER removed the compressor

I have said this before, but this is why I have held on to my 1996 Nissan maxima, got it senior year in high school, 2005. It’s the loaded version, power everything including moon roof, leather seats. The works. And it all still works just fine, even the original factory alternator and A/C. Ever since Renault bought out Nissan in 2000, their quality has taken a major hit. Great content Ivan.

A sense of Déjà-vu! Smart charging to make things worse (and more expensive). I'm wondering why you don't have a PWM signal - is the IPDM faulty? Could it kill the alternator? Even for a poor quality reman, 24h is a little too short of a lifespan. Or is it another poor connection somewhere confusing the "smart" system? Part 2 is now mandatory watch 🙂

Out of all of it, that dealer ripoff is the most infuriating. Great snowy day case study. Thanks Ivan!

Definitely a déjà-vu. Back in 2005 I got myself a 2002 Maxima with the same 3.5 VQ engine. The alternator went bad shortly after. Since I had a 1year guaranty from the merchant I purchased the car, the replacement was covered by a big independent shop and they changed it 2h! That alternator was an aftermarket unit and only lasted 8 months, by that time I was out of my 1-year warranty, but the alternator itself was warranted for 12 months. The big independent shop changed it again for the same brand and again in 2h (I waited on site this time). This second alternator lasted 7 months... and the big independent shop refused to change it a third time under guaranty. Nissan quoted me 1k for the job. As I was broken, I had to do the job myself and save on cost, so I shopped around, everyone had the same model/brand that big independent shop used twice, but I found a small car store carrying an ACDelco alternator, now that’s a brand I know and they are an OEM manufacture - I don't know if they build the one Nissan puts in, but the unit was the exact shape, and all, except for the labeling. Cost me 220$ + 50$ core (this was back in 2007! Canadian dollar on top!). I changed it myself on jack stands in my parking spot in front of the building. Took me 7h, I’m no mechanic and had 0 power tools. I scraped the car a month ago, it was rusted through and through, but that ACDelco alternator worked ‘til the end - I boosted the Maxima and with no battery she when on the tow truck bed by her own running off that 15-year-old alternator. I shed a tear, loved that car - 3.5l, 6sp manual, locking diff, only good memories Ivan no worries, you do need to unscrew the ACcompressor to wiggle the alternator out, but there is no need to discharge the system. The engine bay on the 2002 Maxima (Gen 5.5) looked as tight as your 2010 (Gen 7) one.

pre 2000 maxima was such a good car.

I sure miss the old days when cars were easier to fix and I could do repairs. I'm in my 70's so factor in the cars I worked on🤔

This is a good part of why iam a DIYer for almost 50yrs. that n i got a passion for fixing cars.

Have we all forgotten the last video that the problem was a bad battery ground? How about starting with the basics before getting out the fun toys?

Saw FBM put 6 alternators in a car before he got one that worked, tried 2 oe remains from dealer, tried Delphi, tried autozone, finally got a power premium from Napa, it worked...

Some years back I went through 2 rebuilts on my Firebird in quick succession. Gave up and got an OEM alternator from a late model GM something that was salvaged. A pulley change and it worked fine for years until I sold the car. No matter what brand, once it's taken apart and 'rebuilt' by some unknown entity, brands don't matter.

I am questioning circuit integrity because the charger was supplying 14.7 volts at 90 amps ad the car was reporting that as 13 volts and 50 amps so there is at least a volt and many amps difference as well as the butchered pigtail. I think I would be cleaning grounds and ensuring that plug is fixed before going through the nightmare of replacing that alternator so it will be interesting to see part 2.

Great job Ivan,such a sad world we live in right now. Mr Carter's Diagnostic's has some great videos on nissans. Be safe!!!

Aftermarket alternators and butchered connector classic. I’ve seen way too many of these maximas come into my dealership with new alternators and charging issues. I always sell the pigtail with the alternator. Pins are usually good the connector body just crumbles from all the heat. Just a little tip when testing if it’s a smart charge issue or alt issue. Pull the 10 amp fuse for the alternator from the ipdm. The system will default and should charge at 14.3. If not 9 out of 10 times the alternator is junk.

I remember when a certain car parts store sold reman alternators for $29.95, Unfortunately I could never get one to last more than 6 Months. Which is when and why I learned how to rebuild alternators. To be fair, they reinsulated the windings and put in new brushes. Unfortunately the front bearing they put in was junk and not lubricated. I replaced the front bearing and lubricated the needle bearings and that alternator has been working fine for over 30 years now. Not bad for a $29.00 alternator a $5.00 sealed bearing and a little bit of grease. It was like they rebuilt the unit to fail so it would be easier to rebuild again in six months. Normally getting a bad alternator is no big deal, most parts shops will just swap it out for you, but normal alternators only take 20 minutes to replace.

I put 3 Oreilly Reman alternators on a customers 2009 Nissan Maxima. First one lasted 3 months. Second lasted 24 hours. Third lasted 30 minutes. Replaced with Ultima "New" alternator from Oreilly and haven't had an issue since.

So many times you are correcting damage or mistakes made by other mechanics; perhaps with this one too. A Suburban with a missing fuse. A GMC with a crank position sensor jammed crookedly in a rusty hole; stuff people should have told you they did before you did the job. Still you solve the problems others can't and with a smile.

My immediate guess is an installation of both alternators without going over the connections of negative chassis grounds of all sorts, this includes the ECM and charging module!! Grounding is most paramount and even if it means bare metal all the way; exceptionally CLEAN bare metal wire terminal for the cable AND clean bare metal on chassis!

From working on these things. The connector at the alt itself melts due to being near the manifold. I always have to repair them and put a Denso/Hitachi unit on them.

Yes Eric O had a video about that actually the same problem but It was charging but sometimes the car would stall out and they said to replace a harness but just like your car it just needed a new alternator in the end very interesting video it was.

Had a Taurus years ago that had a couple alts put on. would go 50 or 60 miles and get towed back. turned out to be a mega fuse down under the intake manifold at the rear of the engine compartment. Would connect intermittently until it hit a certain temp.

FordBossme had the same on a Lincoln Town car... 6 Alternators LATER it was the Napa Gold that was the success. Even OEM replacements were failures. These are crazy times...

Great Video Ivan ! That could have been a good car; but leaking valve covers, bald tires. . continues to show that people fail miserably on basic maintenance. Buy 'em and drive 'em.

Agreed, just get true that situation, and I will end up replacing the bearing in the old alternator and get back in place ... 10 hours later ...

I had to replace an alternator in a Nissan Murano awhile back because the connector fried and welded itself to the alternator. Couldn't find a replacement plug locally so one of the guys at auto value let me have their test socket which I soldered and heat shrunk to the existing harness and it worked great until the subframe broke a couple years later.

Ivan what you need is the gulf stream to keep you warm as we have...not bad here just rain...

On 2001 maxima yah you have to disconnect AC compressor but just lower it to get it out of the way. The older VQ30DE was better but smaller engine. Great vid . Always a mystery. We had a saga with alternator on a Honda Odyssey. In the end 4 alternators later it was fine. I think they were thinking it was for a J35A6 engine but it was a J35A7 engine. The one that worked was a denso reman one from rockauto. But the first 3 we’re replaced under warranty so zero cost to me.

The a/c compressor should always be running in defrost mode, to make the air drier to prevent windshield fogging, I think it runs anyway when in defrost even if you turn the "A/C" button off.

I have the same questions as everyone else in the comments. Side note I got a quote for commercial ins today @892 a year, 50/100. Have you ever thought about throwing up a pole barn and upgrading your shop?

It is awful what some guys do to what was previously a good car 😬😬 Very comprehensive testing Ivan 💪💪

Six alternators were installed in my new Volvo before I got one that was reliable. I asked Volvo service if we could try another manufactuer. It was a warrsnty service, so they sourced the parts.

Can't wait for part 2 Ivan!!

Nice diagnosis as always!!!

An interesting observation there, with all the test equipment. I have a Toyota Camry (2000 build) which, at about the 160,000 miles point, the alternator failed. Thought I'd go to component level in the internal regulator/brush assembly in the alternator, as it is easily accessible. I found the brushes had worn down, so I replaced them. Started the engine (cold), and measured 14V across the battery. Thought it was a repair, so went for a test drive, and found the lights dim, so without turning the engine off, measured 10V across the battery. Dang! I did notice that when I put pressure on a certain point on the regulator the alternator would charge. I later replaced the regulator/brush assembly for a cost of $A90.00 It is now functional, but think that the alternator in the Nissan had suffered the same fault, but a non-OEM changeover would only last a short time, having only been tested a short time... A (destructive) test of the old regulator showed a number of corroded copper tracks in the circuit board of the regulator...

a/c is actually good to leave on ...most cars will automatically engage it when defrost mode is chosen ...it helps clear the moisture off the windows

I have my alternators rebuilt by a local shop. The ol' Marquis has it right on top; three bolts and the belt, one plug and the wire held on by the nut and it is off. I thought for a second you were having issues with the CVT because it wouldn't pull into your garage. I would suggest a set of Michelin CrossClimate 2 tires; too bad the owner has spent $1,500.00 on alternator repairs, he could have spent that on tires. Great video!

This looks like the same diagnostic I did on out 2006 explorer. It's kind of a mashup between 2 generations of alternators. This alternator you are working on uses the exact same connector as the ford. The extra wire goes to the stator winding and provides feedback to the voltage regulator on a ford. It uses a PWM signal for a faster response and the lights don't dim when you engage a high draw accessory like they do on an older system. When you unplug, it will supposedly default to charging up to 13.6 volts, but when the problem is internal to the regulator, this feature does not actually work because the regulator failure usually prevents it form allowing the voltage to excite the stator and induce charging. The only way to test this is to manually excite the stator with 12+ power if there is a place where you can contact on the regulator (like on a ford 3G alternator). That will help you diagnose if you are looking at a regulator problem or something else like a brush contact failure. The battery light does not appear to be commanded off until the voltage drops below a certain threshold so drivers aren't advised of the problem when the alternator isn't charging, only when the battery is at a point where it is very near the point where low voltage will shut down the entire vehicle. This is really poor planning as it massively increases the odds of leaving a driver stranded on the road. The battery light does not identify charging problem, only the symptom which is low battery voltage. You're probably 10 miles down the road before the light comes on.

I have a Toyota Camry (4 cylinder sedan, built 2000) which had completed about 160,000 miles, and after a few battery replacements (my mother only drove short trips during the day) every 2 1/2 years, the alternator stopped charging, and I decided to go to component level with the regulator/brushes assembly internal with the alternator, and renewed the brushes (cost only $A10.00). I then measured the voltage across the battery while the engine was running, measured 14 Volts. Thought I had a quick repair, only to find after a test drive, and engine running, the battery down to 10 Volts! I then replaced the regulator (including brushes) for a price of A$90.00. After a destructive test of the old regulator, I found a section of corroded printed circuit board traces, giving me the symptom of (charge when cold, and when 'hot', fail) I think much of this is happening with the Nissan, and a short test of the non-OEM alternator would not have shown the fault...

FWIW I bought a new 2013 Maxima and had no trouble until the summer of 2019, when I got stuck 60 miles from home when the new battery I had put in two weeks prior wouldn't start the car. I called AAA and got jumped. Drove the 60 miles home and have had no issues since. The battery place said I should take it to the dealer because he thought the discharge during driving was caused by my security key system. I didn't do that. I went to the big box hardware store and got a lithium ion charger for $80. Now it's 2023 and still no problems.

Great 👌 content. All of us knows that if you going to the Dealership they are out to make the most money they can But If they see that you have been to outer shops most of the time. They want work own the car because of liability claims. ( He who touch the car last broke the car. ) Real Talk 101 !!!!!!!

I agree with you my 2002 Nissan Pulsar(Sentra in America) is so much easier to work on & 1 of the reasons I'm keeping it until the wheels fall off of it.Reason 2 it's a manual gearbox & it still goes really well (can still do 160kph/100 mph with ease & no rust.

To splice a wire with solder you can use a very small diameter uninsulated butt splice and crimp the wire ends to the splice as normal, then solder the splice and the wires. This will give a good mechanical connection and a good electrical connection and then cover with regular black heat shrink tubing (thin wall). If you are careful in your soldering (best to use some liquid flux) this will result in a splice which is smaller in diameter than an insulated dual wall (thick wall with glue) butt splice after heat shrinking. This is helpful if the wire has to fit into a crowded convoluted tubing harness. The battery negative retro bolt lug should be replaced with a proper cable crimped battery negative lug (and probably the cable from the current sensor to the battery). These bolt wire crimp connected lugs are not a proper repair in the rust belt states. Also, the battery positive lug and post should be disconnected, inspected (along with the positive cable), cleaned, and if all is well, then reconnected. So, I guess the alternator duty cycle control is negative logic? meaning constant low is 100%? or full charge? I really would expect a type of duty cycle control where the command is from let's say 10% to 90% regardless of logic sense, such that there is always a toggling command, a switching signal, so 10% would be off and 90% would be maximum output, for example. For both instances, either stuck high (shorted to +12) or stuck low (shorted to ground) this would indicate as shorted output to +12V or Ground used for diagnostics. Meaning, for troubleshooting if the signal was stuck high or low you would immediately know that there is a problem.

I’ve done some alternator jobs that to say it nicely were not enjoyable, but I never had to discharge the ac on one. Holy crap. If there is any way around that step, I think we will see it . Kudos to You Ivan. I’m guessing we’re going to have some electrical issues to sort out also.

Cool case study so far. (pun intended) Good luck.

Scary how after market parts of all kinds have become junk, Even worse I've run into junk OEM parts too, if you can get them.

Dealt with alot of those nissan alternator connectors. They always are brittle and break when trying to remove. That wire may have not seated on the alternator terminal is my guess

Ivan some cars like chevys are on the side of the seats feel on the door side for controls or look before you get in a car you may find them there or even on center console as well

Yeah I learn that one myself about 10 years ago replacing the alternator on my Corvette from AutoZone the first one that didn't charge after a 2 or 3 days the second one I put on burnt out a battery because it was throwing 17.5 v at the battery so I took it to a place in Tacoma Washington called sound starter rebuild they fixed it right after that I only take my starters and alternators to the sound starter rebuilt and get it done correctly or somebody actually fixes the alternator not just trying to find a bad part they rebuild the whole damn thing

That wiring / connector needs sorting first before calling the alternator.

I had an Altima with the same exact symptoms not even two weeks ago. Only difference was the one I worked on had the I-4 instead of the V6. Did all the checks you did but I wasn't receiving any signal from the IPDM-ER. No signal at the alternator nor comming out of the connector at the IPDM-ER. Found the control wire rubbing against the bolt on the valve cover and pulling the signal to ground. Instead of a 0-6.5(I believe that was what service data said)PWM signal it was only 0-1.3 volt PWM signal. Fixed the wire and shipped it back to the customer but came back a week later with the same exact symptoms. Found no signal coming from IPDM-ER so I had to call it bad. I was so upset how it came back with the IPDM bad but every time you started the engine it would charge fine for the first 5-10 minutes then just stop charging. I still can't explain why it would charge just after start up but then just stop charging.

Smart charging ecm pings the regulator to adjust output, most store bought alternators are cores sent overseas to be refurbished not rebuilt! I use a rebuilder that knows what he is doing and replaces the worn parts not grind sand and paint.

Great diag. I feel badly for that car and the owner. I hope they sue the shop that butchered their wiring harness like that.

Ivan last time I mentioned reman alternators are spotty even if they’re Denso or Toyota reman.

Humm, I'm not feeling good about the alternator connector. That one wire just popped out, and I'm wondering if when plugged in if that pin/wire backs out making a poor connection. I would clean up that wiring and replace the connector first and then go after the alternator, if need be.

My Autel does the mileage discrepancy on Nissans too. It takes the mileage as if it’s kilometers and converts it to miles. Wish they’d sort the issue out, it’s annoying when doing pre and post scans for insurance work.

Early to mid 2000's Nissans keep mechanics busy. The best thing about these cars is there's always plenty of used parts in the junk yard. The same year model Toyota's are hard to find at a junk yard. Think about that :D

As I have noticed in your previous videos. I would have blamed bad alternator, failed diodes and such, but new cars have some hi-tech weird regulators and commanded computer controls. So aftermarket parts do not get it right, testing is not as simple as you my think due to new tech ridiculousness , service data a must. You deserve all Diag. Hrs. time spent . including research and fixing botched repairs. - good luck as you are the last hope !

Hi Ivan. Was there a test with amp clamp and how much amps battery is taking in to know if its good or bad battery? Thanks

I went thru like 5 alternators for a 3.5 Murano that were all bad in the box at parts store, until they gave me a working one. they tested them on the machine and were bad out of the boxes...

I think the best alternators are made by Denso. Toyota uses Denso and I have never had one fail yet.

It would be interesting to test the alternator with the data connector unplugged. I think it would also be useful to inject a PWM signal into the alternator to see how it reacts. Unfortunately, we don't know what the signal from the IPDM is supposed to look like. It's probably a pulsed square wave, but what are the voltage and frequency supposed to be? And what duty cycle values correspond to what load values?

The connector for that style of alternator break all the time I keep 4 in stock and replace them when I replace a alternator

What a mess left by the last person that did this job. Odd that they took the effort to solder the wires but didn't use any shrink wrap. And what the heck happened to the connector? So, I guess a replacement pig tail will certainly be needed. But does Nissan sell one? Probably not since there was talk about replacing the entire wire harness. But it was charging just fine at first. Then just stopped charging for whatever reason. Gut feeling says that alternator is fine. But the connector is the main issue.

Leather seats with no heat option these days can also be a big pain in the wallet since some new warranties bail on leather seam damage caused by "cold climates and no seat heating option purchased new or if purchased, not functional at time of warranty claim...

I hope this year you can get a car lift. Would be easier for you. I've replaced 3 power steering pumps in my S-10 in 1 1/2 years. The C clip on the internal shaft keeps shearing off. Advance Auto store says they've never seen anything like it. I think I'll buy from Napa parts stores in the future.

When I was in the field, alternators & starters that died this quickly we called them "Time Released"

The alternator was charging and then it wasn't. I've seen loose connections on the control wires cause this. That plug looked totally at fault!

Automobiles and their battery charging schemes have changed BUT BATTERIES HAVE NOT. A normal fully charged auto battery being charged at 14.8v is being overcharged. Normal charge maintenance is about 13.7v. A fully charged battery with minima/no load is about 12.6v.

Golden rule is going oem,especially on electronics

This is why I continue to drive my 33 yr old Eagle Premier.

Did you test with the alternator connector unplugged? It should default to 14.4v if it doesn't receive any signals at all rather than hoping the signal from the IPDM was correct. It did work while outside after all

thats great bro thanks

I admire your ability to remove black tape one handed with gloves on!

Like some others, I'm concerned that I see no pwm from the ecm. But at the same time the alternator regulator should default to some voltage. And to confuse things even more the alternator was charging when you first started it. I know you will figure it out.

i still strongly believe along with many others. the root cause of maxima’s electrical problems is a POOR frame ground. we are burning up alternators that are running max beans all the time because of ipdm current sensing circuit failure.

What's going on with the control wire from the smart junction box? Should be sending a signal if the battery current sensors working.

Be honest Ivan, don’t you miss that Maserati? I sure enjoyed that one. Did the owner of the Maserati give you any update?

*** Beyond frustrating: My heart goes out to the owner ... and to you, Ivan! *** $1,500 PLUS that expensive tow ... and NOW 4 hours labor + $500 for a 3rd alternator. Of course the dealer just defaulted to "Bad Wiring Harness" INSTEAD of biting the empathy / honesty bullet and putting in an OEM Alternator under the "Repair" warranty! Whew! Original Problem (At how many MILES on Clock ??? True? ) Failed Alternator. Summary: #1 Died: #2 Bad: #3 Bad : ... Here is hoping # 4 is a good OEM unit and it works! I will soon be changing the alternator on my 2003 Lexus RX300 with 1MZ-FE Toyota Engine. Bought it 3 years ago with 112K miles on the clock. 30 minutes for a pro ... 1 Hour for me. ... I am a bit OCD; I clean and check and re-check (wires, grounds, connectors, etc) as I go ... then I test 3 times, etc. ... but easy and rewarding work. Starter will be next. FYI for all of us: Over my 3 years of ownership, I put in $1, 600 in OEM parts (denso, etc mostly from Rock Auto) for preventive maint for sensors and solenoids, including the 120K service. So far, ONE actual failure. Bank 1 AFR (changed all 3 O2s). Cost for dealer to do all the work "MY WAY" (i.e. 6 OEM plugs 6 OEM Coils, etc) almost $10K. Confession: Yes! I am "fanatic about preventive maintenance". I am a EE who used to work around aircraft and solo'd an old Stearman BiPlane Navy Trainer. No alternator failures at altitude in that fabric-covered puppy. Magnetos ... Just like your lawn mower.🙂

Valve cover leak killed the OE alternator. Aftermarket junk installed. Still on the same boat. Valve cover leak has to be addressed or the new OE alternator wont last.

Ivan, there's a guy on YT who did his from the bottom in 45min. You have to lower the ac compressor, an alternator should slide right down.

Messy is not what I would say

I had to change motor mounts and steering rack on one of these cars. The next time it needs an in depth repair it’s going to the scrap yard. That thing sucked to work on. Pretty sure they used a shoe horn to cram that engine/drivetrain in that car.

Thank you God for my 04 Tahoe with 13mpg, and 209,000 miles! It might corner like a tug boat and drink gas, but at least I can fix it with vise grips and a hammer!!

I replaced my sister-in-law's starter in an Acura where you have to pull the intake about 2 weeks ago. Money is tight and the car needed other repairs so the low dollar starter was chosen. It lasted only 2 days. I get that low dollar parts might not last as long, but this level of garbage is criminal.

In the UK it’s not unusual to find that fitting a non-OE alternator to your smart charging system will only end up in pain/more issues than you started with!

One of my old coworkers, owned a Nissan Altima. He needed to change the water pump. Sounds easy - NOPE! They had to pull the engine out to get access because of the way the car is assembled.

ANOTHER GREAT VIDEO

I had to deal with six Nissans today. Literally every car I touched. Then I come home, and you're working on a dang Nissan!! I quit!! LOL They say Ford circles the problem, and Lincoln puts the problem in the crosshairs. Nissans, though? The problem is so big, it doesn't fit in the circle. ;)

For cars we sell at our shop I never use reman.. I find a low mileage original from a salvage car and its far cheaper and better than a new aftermarket Junk. I bought a jeep last year from manheim auction that the seller dumped for "electrical issue". The brand new Car Quest junk alternator was no good, so the seller assumed the car had a wiring issue. Made good $ on that car..lol

When I saw all the electrical tape at the top of the engine it made me suspicious, then when you removed it and showed the damaged wires, it backed it up. The messed up plug and RTV are a sign of lack of care on behalf of whoever did it - especially when you can find replacement plug ends online! D*man might be crap on a lot of things, but even THEY show an online replacement plug end assembly.

I think the last alternator I put in my 97 Jeep was ... $68? And that was new, not rebuilt. Took about 30mins after pulling the battery and battery tray to access it.

I have a 1993 Merc Marquis Because I can sit in the engine compartment And work on stuff Alternator change 15 minutes. 😀😀😀

It's not just today's modern reman parts that are problematic....35 years ago I stopped buying from NAPA in my midwest town because I kept getting faulty parts, including brake master cylinders and alternators. I thought I'd give them another chance recently since they had Liqui Moly MoS2 antifriction on sale, and I ordered it online and picked up in store. What could possibly go wrong? The label on all the jugs looked really old and there was a thick layer of dust on the tops of the bottles so I emailed the manufacturer with the lot code numbers and they told me that stuff expired 10 years ago. That's saying something because usually the shelf life of motor oil is pretty long.

Wow, calling the alt age the first shop currently called it. But why did it go bad? And those wires are so butchered so bad. Took whole loom off and total repair it and reloom it. That way it looks so tidy lol. Let's see part 2!

On to part 2