$3,000 vs. $9,000 Mountain Bike - What's The Difference? 

Which bike would you choose? Let us know below!

Thr difference is $6000, if I'm not mistaken.

It depends how thirsty you are. The $9k bike has a water bottle and the 3k bike doesn't. A water bottle with water is about 1.5 lbs. with a cost difference of $1,500 per lb between the two bikes the real question is how thirsty are you? Are you really willing to carry that 1.5 lb water bottle on the next climb?

"$3000" "low price point" amazing

The difference is eating ramen for a year vs eating ramen for the next ten years

There's no difference between them. Both I can't afford

A moment of silence for those with 500$ hardtails I was there too

For $9000 you can have $3000 plus BMW G300GS motorcycle. or $3000 Bike with $6000 to spend traveling to ride your 3k bike. With $9000 You can go to New Zealand get $3k bike and enjoy the beautiful trip. Just remember to save $200 to get the bike in the airplane!

You should take a newbie rider and put them on the two different bikes to see what their feedback would be! Would be interesting!

4 pounds for 6.000$, good thing im thin i just saved a lotta money

Me with my 200$ watching 3000$ bike vs 9000$ bike : hmmm yes

Upgrading a humble bike is such a good feeling too, you get to choose the components and really get to know those trick parts you bought. All the quirks and maintenance points are always at the top of your mind too, since you know exactly how they were installed and how they should look and feel. Also your bike will be pretty unique and it's just a killer feeling.

Got an 800 dollar MTB, and its like the best thing I've ever felt

i mean, $3000 still isn't cheap

Im sitting here with my $800 dollar bike going "man this was expensive" while these guys are comparing 3k vs 8k and it's like "3k bike is meh". Wut.

Oh sure, I have no doubt that I could FEEL the difference between a drive trail on a $9,000 bike and a $3,000 bike. The question is, would I care.

9k bike should be coated in kashima entirely. Just submerge the thing in liquid kashima coating after assembly. And the tire sealant needs to have kashima particles. And oil slick kashima drive train with a 18 speed cassette and telekinetic wireless shifting. Non-kashima rotors are out of the question. And make the whole thing out of carbon. There you have it!

I'd rather do a custom build than buy anything stock anymore

I really enjoyed Bo’s objective view on the bikes. Really paid attention to the details while keeping a 10,000 foot view.

I know I've been out of the game for a while but 3K is now considered "entry level?" WTF?

I would choose the 9000$ bike, SELL IT and buy something that I will ride and not put in a glass box

If I could spend 9k on a bike I would not get a stock bike! For that much you can get any of the parts you want on a full custom build!

you should do a version of this where you compare a new $9k bike ... versus the $3k bike with $6k worth of upgrades ... to show weather you're better off saving up and buying the bike with the parts you want already on it or upgrading

A bike is a vehicle to a perfect state of mind. They are sacred machines.

As a weight lifter I have a hard time wrapping my head around excessive weight reduction. For me moving the bike is part of the challenge. I'm saying this as someone who weighs 230lbs. Please excuse my obvious ignorance.

Both... Bought an (Al framed) Specialized Enduro Comp and upgraded it with Guide RSC Levers, X01 Eagle & Roval Traverse SL carbon wheels. Attempted to make it a single quiver rig. But it's strength really is in Park settings where there isn't a ton of pedaling. In hind sight those upgrades cost ~4k on top of the bike itself. Next up, fully custom built Yeti SB140 for local trail riding. Going custom, no compromises on parts selection and end up saving a bit, due to bundling and not paying for stuff that would get swapped out after the fact. Thing is, not everyone is going to feel compelled to pay super crazy $$$, for the super dialed rig. And that's ok. Ride what makes you happy. I certainly am. And, until the new rig shows up in the mail, i’ll just hang out on the trainer, so I don't run out of breath riding the new "Engineer's Bike" from the truck to the trailhead. Lol!! 😅😇👍

I like how you guys gave a strong lean to the lower-spec bike, where I feel a lot of comparisons tend to shout about how inferior it is to the high end bike, and almost make it seem like "if you're only gonna spend that much, you're just wasting your money". As someone with too many hobbies and too little income to justify $10k on a pedal bike, I would definitely fall into the category of "buy the lower spec and upgrade parts over time". I'm not racing, I don't think .2 seconds down my local singletrack is going to make or break my day.

Sam Pilgrim: Hold my monny. Jumps on the freebs

Should've used the accent

New title: “Expensive bike vs stupid expensive bike”

I personally like aluminum because it’s much more durable in crashes/rocks when you try to push your skills. Less vibration through the bike also to my hands. Feels like when bikes are too light they just deflect off everything easier. Once you ride on a regular bases a few pounds difference seems obsolete once you get in decent shape. I could change 3 pounds in weight depending on what I eat for dinner. Not gonna spend an extra 5k. I do like better brakes and shifter for feel. I also like the feel of a stiffer fork such as lyric over pike.

I’ve always been in the buy once cry once category. I either rented bikes or used hand me down bikes until I realized this is something I really like. I ended up choosing the yeti sb150 and I’m happy I waited! Love it

Me looking at a $3k bike drooling lol I can make up that 4 lb weight difference by not eating a cheeseburger that week but I do understand the advantages its like choosing a corvette over a ferrari they are both going to get you there quickly and in style but there is a certain refinement differences between the two.

I died when you introduced Bo with the kids yelling in the background 😂

Folks where I ride spend too much money on expensive kit and neglect the important things like building their skill set and improving their fitness level. They also feel the need to ride 5-6" travel bikes on trails where skilled riders shred on a hardtail with a 100mm fork and 2.2 tires. They usually pull up to the trail head driving some sort of large truck with wheels/tires that barely fit and trailer mirrors, yet the truck has no hitch. How embarrassing.

His hair looks like he just went 100 mph backwards

Today i ordered the water bottle and every month i will upgrade something on it until i've got my $9,000 Mountain Bike

I actually have the Aluminum Troy in a GX build, it's been a great bike for me and cost $3,250. I never thought I would spend more than that on a bike, but I just put an order in for a Revel Ranger frame and fork, in total the bike will cost about $7,500 when it's all built up. Amazing what you can justify spending when you get hooked on a sport and start going into the rabbit hole of researching gear. Turns out I like xc and long intermediate trails the most, and the Troy is great but not the best tool for the job.

Feel like wheels and brakes are easily one where they save on cost - and probably good so, they are easiest to upgrade. Not that 2-3k bike has bad either, they are just fine. 2000 €/$ can get you full suspension trail bike, dropper seat post, decent fox suspension and gx drivetrain, which is already a quite good deal.

Thank you for making this kind of comparison. I am not a dentist, or an orthodontist, I have kids and bills and unfortunately a lower spec bike is all I will ever be able to afford. And as we know, most of the reviews are for top spec. So I will be buy the lower spec bike just because it is all I will ever be able to afford.

It’s literally hard to spend $9k on a brand new stock enduro motorcycle. That’s crazy, top end mtb bikes were about $5k when i stopped riding and they had 26” wheels.

These are the good old times my friend...Thank you for reminding us !

99.9% of people should have a $3K bike. A. because these bike prices are getting out of control. B. Unless you're a pro and sponsored you don't need a $9K bike. C. Spend what you want, it's not my money.

Planning on going full squish in the spring. I will target a $2-2.5k bike and slowly upgrade. What you need to get you on the trail and enjoying the mountain does not need to cost a damn fortune. Paying over $5-6k for a bike is snob status for sure. That being said, MTB is a serious hobby where nothing is cheap and those that enjoy it (hell, or any hobby for that matter) are free to burn their cash however they please.

Bottom line, is the expensive bike worth the 6k premium for your skill level/enjoyment factor?

After weight the biggest factor has to be durability. My bike was somewhere between those two in terms of price range and the alu wheels while heavier were also made of playdoh. At a certain point the upgrades you're talking about aren't a choice but a necessity after you bang up the cheaper components. Droppers are notorious for going awry, derailleurs get smashed to oblivion, pedal bushings turn to dust etc. The only really reliable parts are probably the saddle, cranks, and bar/stem. Also very surprised you didn't mention the difference in tires.

I'd always start with upgrading the tires :) Best upgrade and also the first one everyone should try. I've put a Maxxis Assegai DD Maxxgrip on my Canyon Spectral, holy shit is this tire great, it grips even on wet/muddy roots. It's even better than the dhf! Before that I was running a Wild Enduro, super rolling and grippy tire, but not on wet roots, it was the slippiest front tire on wet roots I have ever ridden :-D The Wild Enduro is a great tire if mounted on the rear!

Me watching this video while I have a 160$ bike 🥵

Hub engagement is why some people like fixie bikes soo much. Power transfer from peddle to wheel to ground is instantaneous. But I'd rather have gears for hills so no fixie for me.

Im with miss Bo, the blue one is for sure the best bike in the world!

I’ve been riding 5 times....and I’m hooked, watching all these different channels, Looking at bikes, parts, trails. This is a great hobby!

The kid is just a blessed lovely being from heaven...i love the red one but really respect the blue one; the kid loves it😊😊😊

Went from Fuel ex 8 ($3200) to Fuel ex 9.9 (8500). The only thing I would add is the added stiffness and compliance in the carbon components

This was the first video iv seen from this channel, and let me tell you, that accent was convincing and i thought i was watching GMBN for a second

Good video. Ultimately the biggest upgrade you can make is improving fitness and technical skills. I ride a 3k fs largely customized, and I have as much fun as I did 30yrs ago on my hardtail with caliper brakes and a fork with two inches of travel . But man the bikes these days are awesome!!!

I own a Trek Fuel EX8 and testet a Santa Cruz Hightower LT X01 and I think the difference is not worth the money. But a few days later i got a Santa Cruz Megatower CC XTR and I bought one 🤟

One massive visual advantage on the higher priced bike is the internal routed cables. Makes the bike look so much cleaner.

So basically if someone just wants a bike for riding some easy trails and nothing hardcore there is no reason for them to buy a 9k bike over a 3k bike is what i am hearing.

Beginner's with a hardtail below 500$: why am I even here

great video. I would have to stress one huge difference is shifting performance. The $3000 bike's drivetrain will work flawlessly for about 2 shifts and then be garbage forever. You have to spend a ton of money to get good shifting. plus, there is a huge difference in the front suspension which most people will notice. suspension these days is pretty good at the higher end of things. Plus, Taylor's phone number. she forgot to post it!

Im from australia, that actually wasnt a bad crack at the accent

Just get the GX build, problem solved. Gotta say, the red Troy is dead sexy. Such a clean frame and subtle branding. Do want!

idk bout the differences but here's a similarity: I can't afford either

"$3000 low price point", me with my $700 Diamondback hardtail

well explained, as a salesperson (not bikes) i always tell people, performance is relative, you don't know what you don't know, same thing with bikes.

You know what really grinds my gears....On Jeff's laptop, why does he have his WC sticker centered on the globe and not the sticker as a whole?

Great vid! Awesome to hear about the difference in feel when it comes to riding vs just stats. Also great to hear about biker snob thoughts along with a more recreational rider perspective. Pinning this video to share with any friends when they inevitably ask this question after getting hooked on the sport.

Upgrading is adicting, and very expensive,, I speak from experience, better off paying as much as you can at the start, until it hurts, it will hurt anyway you look at it, there are great bikes in the middle of those two.. I crash a lot less on a light bike too, at my age thats a BIG bonus, my bike? Specialized Epic Expert,, I took many upgrades off my old bike, Carbon bars/seatpost, XO1 Eagle, Renegade tires, 23.9 pounds now. with pedals/computer.. next upgrade, Sram XD Driver...

Hey - It's not just about being a bike snob. One point you didn't mention when discussing the fine details was, the fine brake adjustments of the RSC's, and the drivetrain differences will be more important when riding more extreme terrain. That's when you really need fine brake adjustments and brake feel is super important. Likewise, you really need a drivetrain that hooks up instantly and lightweight wheels to put the power down. Nevertheless, a valid comparison.

That was a good ass accent actually!

Got a good deal on an entry level Yeti sb140 regular C frame. I already have a Turq sb130 X01 build. Have to say the 140 blows the 130 away in every way. It just under 2 lbs heavier and only has Fox Performance, where the 130 has all Factory stuff. AND I got the 140 for 3k less

Started MTBing back in the late 80's. I wanna say, that none of the differences shown are worth 6k $. As you said, it's all about being a bike snob, or not 😂. Spending like 5-6k on a complete is by far enough and should work for like 90% of the hobby/amateur riders. (My ride: costum Demo8). Great video,tho. P.S. Dear Bo, 29ers are taller than you 😜.

I bought a 2001 Klein Attitude Race hardtail back in 2000. It costs me about $2,100. Best purchase i ever made. It's been so reliable and has performed very well. I guess a bike like that would probably be in the $3,000 range today. Oh, the color of the bike is VERY important. To me, the bike has to look cool.

I like buying the lower price point building my own bike is part of the fun getting carbon wheels next week . I do truly enjoy piece by piece customizing great video

When you consider the cost of making nicer parts out of nicer materials, for a smaller and smaller market as you go up the ladder, that’s part of the driving force behind the price increases. Yes I’ve worked on the retail side of the industry, yes I know about mark up and cost vs retail price. Just saying. XX1 has a MUCH smaller volume than NX, this all production costs (engineering, tools, materials) is spread across a much smaller set of buyers.

I think people should take a approach more like Bo's. If you love it... Who cares what you ride. To many people get caught up in the BS of it all. Bring and ride what ya got.

One thing about MTB sticker shock is that the top of the line prices $9K and more get a bike that's the same level of ride World Cup racers use.

Worth to mention the internal vs external routing.

I have an Orbea Occam that I’ve felt is the best bike I’ve ridden! I’ve ridden Yeti and Specialized as well. Riding has to do with the rider not the pocket book

i prefer aluminum.

Yes, I am a bike snob. I have an SC Nomad and a Pivot Shuttle (XTR build). I also have a Bronson and a Haibike as backups. The differences between the $3-4K and $8-10K builds are huge. XTR or X01 vs an NX is beyond comparing. When you try a Hope V4 or Saint or XT 4 piston, you just don't want Guides or Maguras around anymore. A good shock with stiff wheels, dialed in sag/rebound. Just going from a Fox 32 to a 34 or a 34 Factory feels like sitting into a BMW after your beater Ford Pickup (I have a beater Ford pickup that is probably worth less than my Shuttle). Longevity is also a "thing". 4 year old X01 derailleur: perfect, never had to touch 2 year old NX : side-play, messed up, the whole thing goes to the garbage as soon as I figure how to swap stuff around the bikes (probably to be replaced by an XT) ... The Haibike's dropper compared to a Transfer or the Rockshox or even the 5+ years old KS is the same.... sure .. both works. Except when it doesn't. Except when you spend half an hour in the rain in the middle of the forest, trying to figure out why it keeps sliding down or not going up.... So ... it is not a show-off thing. When I have time for 3 runs. Do I want to enjoy crisp shifting, or stopping and putting the chain back for the 3rd time, because I have NX on that bike.... and wondering why my hands are blue from Magura Blood after that 500m vertical drop ... So yep ... these things do matter. You don't have to race or be a pro to want to enjoy good shifting, good suspension or good brakes. For the record: my $6800-ish Nomad came with unacceptable WTB seat (that broke), Guides (changed to Hope after a month), and WTB wheels that were super hard to seat tubeless on (replaced with Crank Brothers) .... And Santa Cruz shipped it with a piece of crap cassette. Even though they marketed it as the X01 build, the X01 cassette cost me $500 at the time :O so even a $7000 build carries crap... or just stuff you will eventually replace with better stuff. Just my 2c. But again... I am a complete bike snob... I have to admit though, that I cannot find one single component on my Shuttle that I would want to replace. I am trying, but I cannot :) I only have 4 rides on the thing though :O ... maybe a longer stem and wider bars, but it is not a "need better" thing, more like ergonomics...

Difference is You have money VS YOU HAVE MONEY!!!!!!!!! Lol

Damn that red bike costs more than my family’s 3 cars - Our Daily driver Pontiac Vibes :) 😂

Good damn job with the accent!! SERIOUSLY! LOL

6:33 Finally a winner is chosen! Goodbye 27.5

I dont necessarily agree here. U can have a nice bike if you wait for end of year model sales. IMHO is the way to go unless you're the gotta have it before everyone else type. No way in hell I'm dropping anywhere near 9k on no pedal pony! Its ludicrous!!

For me the main differences are the materials and shock size. The 3k bike is made of aluminum alloy and the shocks are around 140 mm. The 9k bike has carbon, which is lighter, and the shocks are thicker and around 160 mm. The reason thicker shocks are better is because they can support more weight then thinner shocks.

Those details cost an extra 6k... So it comes down to how much cash (or credit) you're able to throw around! 🤔🤷🏾‍♂️

Great video. I bought a lower end build bike and am slowly upgrading it with nicer components.

7:45 is the real answer for this topic.. 🙂

IMO - One big difference you didn't mention is the Al frame has external cables. The C6 frame has internal cable routing. It doesn't matter from a performance PoV, but the internal cable routing looks a lot more tidy... But I'm being a bike snob too. 😁

Me waiting 2 years to convince my father to get me a 2000$ bike. This video cheap bike(3000$) vs expensive bike(9000$). WTF?!

I do like the comparison videos your team post. I can relate to the differences you mentioned from a demo ride by Yeti in my home town. The T series Yeti's with x01 were way more comfortable to shift than the gx on the C series. My ride for now is a 2006 yeti asr with industry nine 26" wheels. The smaller wheels make the bike feel extremely playful and poppy, but scares the heck out of me in rock gardens and real tech-y parts of trails.

I'd go for the $5k one

I prefer buying a bike based on the frame rather than the components. The frame is the most expensive part of the bike plus components can always be upgraded easily. In order of priority when buying a new bike: 1. Frame 2. Fork 3. Crankset 4. RD, cassette, chain, shifter 5. Brakes 6. Rims, spokes, hubs, tires 7. Headset, stem, handlebar 9. pedals and seatpost 8. grips and saddle 9. bar ends, bottle cages, valve caps, etc

Jared! Get me a Beer man

Interesting. From your blog I see the $3k bike is a little shy of 15kg and the $9k bike is a tad under 13kg so 3 times the price for a weight reduction of about 2kg or 12.6%. I bought my road bike at Aldi's for a lot less than these, it came with an aluminium alloy frame, cranks and wheel rims and weighs 11.1kg. Admittedly it has no suspension and it would probably fall apart if I tried to use it where these bikes would compete. Still I feel a little happier now about my machine than I probably should. Thanks for the video Worldwide Cyclery.

How much POC Tectals do u have? lol I have the same, it`s amazin helmet)

*POWER TRANSFER, DOOODE!* The Carbon transfers so much more immediate power from the pedals to the tires than the aluminum - it was a stark difference for me when I first upgraded.

I like me a Devinci but I have Santacruz 😧. He is bike snob because he can afford to be. My question is are you actually getting something better ? Or is it like buying a BMW where it feels great, looks great but spends a lot of time in the shop because it’s poorly engineered.