Hey everyone! Hope this video was helpful! Remember, ARC and eARC are potentially helpful, but sometimes buggy, quirky in implementation. The key is to keep experimenting! Also, as another commenter pointed out, some TVs (like some Sony models) will get updates enabling eARC as an upgrade from ARC. The spec sheets online may or may not cover that. So check your TV’s audio menu for availability AFTER making sure you have the latest software and firmware updates!
I actually didn't think that the Samsung Q90R wasn't going to get an eARC update, but after following forums and anxiously awaiting, it finally happened.
one thing i am really wondering about as a gamer is input lag (not audio lag). Does hooking the console to the receiver (in my case a Vizio Atmos soundbar), then receiver to the TV,. introduce lag? Do you know anything about that? FWIW I can INSTANTLY tell when game mode isn't on my TV, so I am lag sensitive, and I didnt really notice any lag playing this way, but just want to be sure. Anyways Finally got my setup working, it's a 2018 TCL 6 series (has regular arc, not earc) and a Series X and the Vizio Atmos bar. I had it wired as Xbox to TV, then TV Arc to soundbar. Wired this way, the Xbox doesn't even offer Atmos etc as options in it's audio output settings. Once I changed it to hooked the X to the soundbar, then the soundbar to the TV via arc, a whole bunch of audio settings on My Xbox including Atmos opened up, and trying with Halo Infinite seems to work great! Also, huge shoutout to MS, they have cool audio setup thing, that will individually fire each speaker in sequence along with a graphic where each speaker lights up as fired. Really cool to show noobs like me that it's working, and that all of my atmos speakers are firing! Fantastic little ease of use feature.
I still don’t understand why most tv’s, when supporting 4K120hz, have to include the ARC/eARC feature to one of those ports, such as the tcl 646. The only tv brand, that keeps it separate is the Vizio P series tv’s. I can only assume it’s a cost cutting measure since eARC is technically a 2.1 feature and they want to keep the price of the tv lower while still giving the option of having 4K120hz or eARC. Luckily, it appears the 2022 models are adding 2.1 to all available HDMI ports now, at least the higher end models. Hopefully, this is implemented more in upcoming tv’s.
Great video! Just to clarify for your viewers, “compressed” and “lossy” are not the same thing. Dolby and DTS formats are compressed - TrueHD and DTSHD-MA are lossless (but still compressed). The only uncompressed mainstream format is PCM and LPCM.
He’s also wrong about the lag and lip sync with eArc. He’s right in the sense that those are quote on quote “advertised” features of eArc, however since the inception on eArc, certain and TV’s and devices, such as the infamous Xbox consoles and LG OLED TV’s are known to have significant issues with Dolby Atmos and lag/lip sync issues when using that with eArc.
@@TheLazyGamers LG TVs have issues with everything. Whenever I have to set up a Sonos Amp, Arc Soundbar or Playbar on one, it's always been a total clusterfuck. Samsung or Sony, no problems ever.
@@andrewbobucky4612 every TV has its pros and cons. The LG’s are the best when it comes to gaming features and having a high end panel, which for me are the biggest concerns. My LG G2 can do 48Gbps HDMI 2.1 for 12-bit @ 120hz, and supports all video modes for my series X console without issues. For example Sony TV’s can’t do Dolby Vision @ 120hz, and also has increased latency at Dolby Vision 60hz due to not supporting a DV game mode. Sony TV’s also do not support LFC with their VRR unlike LG and Samsung, and due to not supporting LFC also doesn’t have Gsync nor Freesync Premium/Pro support. With the Samsung’s they don’t support DV whatsoever so that’s a no go for my series X. The G2 is the only TV on the market that supports all the HDMI 2.1 features and new console features (48gbps, 4K @ 120hz, VRR (Forum, Freesync Premium/Pro, Gsync) HDR (HDR10, Dolby Vision), ALLM and can reach 1000 nits HDR), and that’s why I chose it. LG’s biggest issue has always been audio. The audio on their OLED’s is subpar as it is, plus the infamous e-arc bugs that plague the LG sets especially with gaming consoles just makes e arc completely useless on LG TV’s. While the G2 supports all the picture settings for my gaming PC and series X console, it doesn’t support all the audio modes due to the removal of DTS/X over e-arc. So now I have to plug it into a soundbar directly in order to get all the series X audio formats. Only problem is there isn’t a single soundbar on the market that can do full 48gbps uncompressed, as well as passthrough 4K @ 120hz with HDR (Dolby Vision and HDR10), VRR (Forum, Freesync Premium/Pro, Gsync) and ALLM. The closest we get is the Sony HT7000, but that is limited to 40Gbps not 48gbps, as well as can’t passthrough VRR & ALLM. At the end of the day, I wish there was a be all end all tv that just supported everything no questions asked, but unfortunately that’s not the world we live in and we have to pick our poison with TV manufactures accordingly. Hell the fact that we don’t even have viable hdmi 2.1 soundbars yet means I’m just gonna have to play the waiting game for the manufactures to step up their game.
This is to be the best explanation on RU-vid in example format, for different situations, for arc and e arc… EVER! I do appreciate your time. Thank you so much for posting.
Thanks! I remember when we put out our first explainers on this tech, our headline was something like “the best feature you aren’t using.” I gather lots of folks still aren’t taking advantage.
@@Caleb_Denison they aren't using it because when people buy a TV they don't pay attention to the HDMI specs and only pay attention to size, and resolution. Everything else is an after thought. I don't know a single person in my family or friend group who knows what ARC or eARC is. I'm mainly the tech heads like us that get into the weeds of specifications.
As other commenters have highlighted, this is an extremely informative and well presented piece. Well done, it helped me as just transitioning to ARC, and he did the best job of capturing subtle potential stumbling points; very succinct yet complete. Bravo.
Thank you very much for your explanation, I have never really thought about this before. But it's quite relevant to me because I thought I would have to buy a new surround sound system when i upgrade my TV because my current Receiver does not have HDMI2.1. But thanks to ARC and your explanation I now know that I do not have to do that at all.
This video finally answered all my questions on why my receiver without earc isn't working right so thank you. I've searched for a lot and this is the first video that made sense
I've been using EARC from my Sony tv to my Marantz av receiver for over a year. For the most part it works really well. It so nice to not dealing with switching inputs.
Got a new older 2023 TV with an ARC option. I am not going to use it but I needed to know what I was looking at. Thank you for making it clear and simple.
Just migrated from optical to arc after a recent tcl Roku tv update. Using a 10 year old Onkyo. Man, the step up from Dolby Digital to DD Plus was noticeable. I don't think my equipment supports earc, unfortunately. But man, I am glad to be done with that optical. Saving the optical for emergencies like old consoles or whatever. You know. In that drawer. You have one. With all the other things we KNOW we will need one day for no goddamn good reason but we know where we last had it! :)
That drawer with extra items. I have several. A multitude of cables including s-video. Also a stack of old equipment including a variety of switch boxes. Radio shack had optical switch boxes
I have a 2008 Panasonic tv and I was pleasantly surprised when I connected a Chromecast dongle and the TV remote simulated the Chromecast remote and allows me to navigate the Chromecast menus and control all apps like Netflix. It also controls my receiver and DVD player…. Very impressed with my 14 year old plasma TV tech!
I just got a 5.1 soundbar system that supports eARC as does my recently purchased tv. It is my understanding that I need an HDMI cable that supports HDMI 2.1 in order to get the most benefit from these systems. I ordered one on Amazon today and am using the regular HDMI cable that I already had until the 2.1 cable comes in. Thanks for the video, it helped a lot!
You do not need an HDMI 2.1 Cable to use eARC (HDMI 1.4 or better is fine), but if you are passing video through your soundbar you want to use a cable good enough for the video source. (HDMI 1.4 for switch and PS4/Xbox One, HDMI 2.0 for Apple TV/PS4 Pro/Xbox One X/Fire Stick, HDMI 2.1 for PC and PS5/Xbox Series)
@@living757 I found this video because my Xbox one fell where I had it and pulled the HDMI cord out of the TV HDMI earc port and damaged the port. Also, is there a difference in picture from using this earc port and another HDMI port?
@twinturbobmw535xi7 high speed with Ethernet is what you need for ARC/eARC so you are good there! Video quality should also be the same for other ports with an Xbox One device. The new Xbox Series X supports HDMI 2.1 which is higher quality, and many TVs only have HDMI 2.1 on some ports (or no ports) and while it’ll work fine, you’ll miss out on that extra quality.
@@living757 understood , I have the Xbox one x , I was trying to buy the series x (the tower looking one) when it came out , but this was during the pandemic and after the looting in 2020 and no one had them. The ppl that did were price gouging selling them at a whopping $1000+ it was unbelievable. So I broke down and opted to just buy the one x. Visually Still looks great since I was used to the 360 lol. But def disappointed that I couldn’t get the series x. Also thanks for the info. I wanted to make sure that I wasn’t losing out on picture quality by being Forced to use the hdmi 2 port. Infirtur this is a brand new tv only about 2 months old. The hdmi cable yanked out one of the pins inside the port along with a small piece of plastic when the Xbox fell.
OMG, I thought you only did TV reviews, and I began looking for other stuff and you popped up !?!? You're style, knowledge, advice makes you my top reviewer on RU-vid, hope you get that Million soon, keep up the good work :)
Great information, period. No one else has suggested that we confirm that the TV supports sending Dolby ATMOS or DTS X via the ARC or ARC e port. And if not, to connect all of the other HDMI cables directly to the AV receiver. Thank you!
I never thought of connecting all the cables to the TV, I have always plugged all the HDMI cables to the amp. What you say about eArc makes sense and I will give it a try.
Thanks for helping me understand these things. I’m going to stick to having everything connected to my receiver though. I don’t wanna deal with a million cables going to my wall mount TV.
This was very helpful, thanks. Your videos are very insightful and I look forward to seeing all that you have to offer with your knowledge. This ARC/eARC video was actually a timely video because I have the Samsung Q90R 82"TV that I purchased 2 years ago and a remarkable think just happened: I just got firmware update that added eARC to my TV! As I'm sure you are aware, that this set didn't have eARC at the start, but now that limitation has been eliminated. I'm gonna go thru everything on my set to see how well it works but with your video, this will answer any questions I initially had about the differences. Thanks again!
I have a Samsung 55 inch tv with eArc and a Samsung ms650 sound bar that comes with ARC only however i believe the sound bar works as a eArc after my latest update audio quality is so much better than ever. 700w subwoofer and rear speakers wake up more than ever. I listen to music on Tidal Master Audio and ill turn off MQA software encoding and let the soundbar decode everything. It truly sounds amazing! High Mids and lows are super responsive.
Hey Caleb. Your mentioning of CEC helped me resolve an issue that I was having. I have an LG OLED55C1 tv with a Shaw cable box, Apple TV 4k and an LG 4k HD Bluray player all connected to hdmi ports on the TV. I decided to get an LG eclair QP95 sound bar for better sound especially since it supports Dolby ATMOS. The tv and the sound bar both have eARC so I have term connected to each other through eARC. The only issue is that when I power up the shaw cable box is that I don’t get audio for about 45 seconds and while I am waiting for the audio the screen blanks out 3 times and after the 3rd time I see a message at the bottom of the screen that says LG ready and then I get audio. I think that the Tv must be enumerating all of the HDMI devices. So after trying about 20 different settings, cables,ports, etc I decided to look for CEC settings on all of my devices. So first I checked my shaw cable box and found that CEC was enabled so I disabled it and suddenly it went from about 45 seconds and the screen blanking out 3 times before I got audio to 18 seconds and no screen blanking out to get audio. 😅Thanks for the videos!!
I'm looking to buy a soundbar with only one Hdmi and I was worried I would not be able to use it with my Bluray player or PS5. This guy has saved my ignorant ass again. Thank you!
Thank you Sir!!! .. absolutely an outstanding technical video for not so technical people!!! .. 5 stars!!! .. now I know how to connect my PS5 to my new Samsung TV
This actually helped a lot since I have an LG CX I had my 4k player plugged into the TV thinking it would pass the dtsx signal to my soundbar but after watching and finding out the CX doesn't support dts I switched some cables around for it plugging the 4k player into the soundbar
A benefit I found is it allowed me to keep my existing receiver when I got a new TV but still get the best possible audio and video the equipment supports with out having to upgrade my receiver. I can plug into the tv our use the built in apps and to get 4k hdr and the eARC will pass back the Dolby TrueHD or DTS-HD signal back to the receiver. Without eARC I would have to choose between lossless audio or HDR as my receiver does not support HDR and you can't pass the lossless audio formats over optical. I also have the annoying issue with my receiver sometimes turning off and back on and then finally off again a few minuets later when I turn off the tv. It would be nice if eARC would function without CEC.
Your content is by far the most comprehensive, clear and easy to understand. Thanks for all of your hard work. I just bought the Sony A95k 65" and a Sonos arc sound system with a Gen3 Sub and 2 x one sl's for surrounds. I'm just wondering, do I need a special cable to carry the eARC signal from the TV to the ARC? or will any hdmi cable suffice? I'm about to get an installer to come wall mount it for me so I kind of need to get it right haha.
Great question, you need a "High speed HDMI Cable with Ethernet", but that's just about all cables made in the last 10 years, and it should say in printing along the cable that there's ethernet if the Cable has ethernet. HDMI 1.4 cables or better have the ethernet functionality but for future proofing if you don't already have a cable I would buy an HDMI 2.0 or 2.1 cable (with 2.1 being preferable) depending on how long the run is and what your budget is.
Insightful video with details that I wish were common knowledge years ago, as I jumped on the new format bandwagon too early. I have a Samsung Q9-fn TV and a Samsung HW-K950 Atmos soundbar, which were highly rated at the time, but the manuals had no mention of the lag and compression issues of using standard Arc. It makes for a hefty investment to upgrade both.
Unfortunately arc earc stil don't work with my old Vizio Atmos 5.1.2 sound bar. Always have to unplug & replug HDMI cord after I turn the U7G on. Then mostly works all day. A few times the tv switches to tv speaker from arc/earc.
Super helpful video, Remember the day when it was yellow cable video, white and red for left/right channel audio? So simple. I recently tried hooking up a great Samsung plasma to a Samsung QQ990b and was having all sorts of trouble. The little tip here @6:38 looked for Anynet+ (which I'd glossed over because there was no explanation of what that did), enabled that and bingo!
It is very important to find out if a tv has eARC. Almost every tv should have it now but it is a huge deal for watching 4K movies or playing games with Atmos or DTS:X. Thanks for the vid!!
It is not that important.. as hardly any content available with the Tv itself has Uncompressed Multichannel audio..if you play competitively you do it with PCM 2.0.. If you have a dedicated UHD player or Dedicated HighEnd Bluray which will play uncomppressed multichannel audio.. you are certainly plugging those devices directly to the Receiver in first place.
Great video but you do not mention anything about HDMI passthrough capabilities of the TV. Not all TVs can pass Dolby or DTS to HDMI arc from the rest of the HDMI inputs
Just so I understand 100% in order to use arc or E arc you need to have a dedicated HDMI cable basically only for audio going from the TV to your receiver correct?
You missed an opportunity to show how to connect a sound bar, AppleTV and a gaming console together to a TV. Although you explained what ARC/eARC is, you only mentioned for a few seconds the connection chain to bring these devices together. How about a diagram, or if you have the components, show the optimal connection chain. That's the part I'm missing.
Thanks for the explanation. I guess I sort of knew why to use it but did not fully understand. I have the same problem with the amplifier turning back on sometimes, but I found that using one remote over another turns it off with no problem.
Hi Caleb, That's a clearly described issue with HDMI in certain devices. Let me share my experience how i have connected My LG TV with Sony HTA9 and Apple TV. With eARC (HDMI2)enabled in the TV and Sony HTA9 initially. Once , they are in Sync, I have connected Apple TV to HTA9 . The LG TV has created a sub menu in the HDMI 2 tab with Sony HTA9 to play audio from TV and another tab to enable apple TV to play audio in HTA9.
This is a great video. Will be receiving my first smart TV in a couple of days and wanted to learn how to connect so that I could use both soundbar and TV speaker audio. Thank you for posting!
I've learned about eARC's downfall very early, and the easiest way I found to fix the issue when it stops working is to just unplug the HDMI cable from the television, and plug it right back in, and it'll be back to normal.
for gamers,ARC digital formats produce some delay in some systems! better PCM or eARC Q-symphony from Samsung only work best with eARC soundbar, if SB only supports ARC there will be some delay or stuck with PCM no delay but stereo so better get eARC in the first place and enjoy surround without delay!
I would always have preferred a HDMI Audio out as opposed to eArc. I wish TVs came with a HDMI Audio Out port. I know you save a cable but you run into all sorts of issues. Does the TV support DTS? Does it support Dolby? Does the Receiver support Arc? Does the receiver support eArc? All these are automatically resolved with an Audio pass-through HDMI out port. Same with consoles - I would love for PS5 and XSX to have a HDMI out port. I'd pay the cost for it any day.
90% correct. Not all soundbars support DTS. My TCL soundbar (TS813/TS8132) has eARC but doesn't have a DTS decoder so it'll just use PCM 2.0, but it does fully support True-HD/DD+ + Atmos. While the TV is one part of the equation (My Sony X900E only has regular ARC so I only get DD+ and up to DTS 5.1), the soundbar/receiver is another part of the equation (in my case, eARC Dolby Atmos and no DTS). This means the most I get is DD+ lossy compressed Atmos (which is fine as that's what apps like Netflix, Hulu, etc. use). Due to my soundbar, I can't use DTS (which my TV can pass-through). My soundbar does have an HDMI in, but again, no DTS decoder. I can do full Atmos but no form of DTS.
@@Teku175 Yes, it doesn't fix those issues. I'm actually a bit surprised that some equipment doesn't support DTS. It's a real shame cause DTS is the only reason we have good movie sound today. The original DD was 448kbps while DTS was 1.5mbps. Massive difference. DD+ is the same as DTS. The big kahunas were DD TrueHD and DTS Master HD. TVs can just get rid of the optical port which is now practically useless and replace it with Audio HDMI out. They can keep eArc for the masochists who don't mind if the sound drops or something happens here and there.
Regards to your comment at 7:00 about tv turning the reciever off/on it is pin 13 on the hdmi cable, you can get an adapter/coupler with pin 13 removed to combat this problem, hope this helps
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Great video! Could recommend the appropriate set up of cable connections for this case. If I have a TV with regular HDMI ports and 1x eARC HDMI port + a sound bar with regular HDMI and 1x eARC HDMI port how should I connect to get the best audio and video? Should it be: - from Apple TV to eARC HDMI port on TV and from TV HDMI to Sound bar HDMI. Or - from Apple TV to eARC HDMI port on sound bar and from HDMI port on sound bar to HDMI port on the TV. Pretty much I’m trying to figure out which device pair should use the eARC port. Thanks!
Thanks for the info. I tried earc connected from my Sony A80j and was disappointed with the sound quality. I expected much better. I have it connected to an Onkyo RZ-50. When watching netflix, I compared the apps in my sony thru earc, and using Roku, and there was no contest. The apps sound thru the Roku won hands down.
This is my first time visiting your channel and I am impressed. Great job breaking down the differences here. I have a much better understanding. I have the Sony HTS 200F sound bar because of the size and the space of my set up. I noticed when I use PCM, the audio level is much louder compared to choosing Digital audio out, "auto" and the output being DD+. Is there a reason for that and should I continue using the PCM setting for the louder sounding volume?
I don't know what your source material is, whether a console or the builtin apps of your TV, but when TVs are set to PCM, generally this means downmixing incoming HDMI content (consoles, players, etc) to stereo. With eARC, if you choose Pass Through for digital audio out, you can set your console/player to output Linear PCM 5.1/7.1, thanks to eARC the tv is able to pass that uncompressed surround signal to the audio device. For Blu-ray player app in these consoles it's better to set the internal setting to Bitstream, which will pass through audio, even Atmos, and let the receiver or sound bar decode it.
I hope there is like a ARC convertion to eARC either in a the form of firmware or a gadget to use. My TV is only ARC but my soundbar is eARC. So I can only get compressed Atmos instead of Dolby TruHD or uncompressed Atmos.
I have a Sony a80j and u showed me how to get atmos to my sound bar without using a separate device. I can now get dolby vision and atmos. Before I had to choose. Thanks again.
Helpful video. Only issue I’m having with my setup is with cec. It works for almost everything. But when I go to play a game or watch a movie, the menu for the Sony receiver will open. And no matter how many times I close it, it always re opens
I always go to the receiver or pre (last 25 years), then video out to the TV. A little lag is worth the best sound in an HT. Now I have a mini-led with all 2.1 ports; I still go into my Marantz AV7705 and then out to the TV. If I use e-arc, I lose all my on-screen menus and volume from my Marantz.
A very interesting explanation. I guess your viewers are not the typical tv watchers. Using the receiver or tv as the switching device has limits because there are not enough inputs so an hdmi switch is required. I still have s-video switch boxes that I use and DVD recorders do not have digital inputs. Normally when you turn off a receiver it stays off. I have a Panasonic CD changer that will turn on and start playing after a power failure. The solution has been to unplug it.
Sorry to be a stickler... but you compared Dolby TrueHD to DTSX. Dolby TrueHD is comparable to DTSHD-MA (master audio). Dolby Atmos is comparable to DTSX. Dolby TrueHD & DTSHD-MA are compressed but lossless audio. Dolby Atmos & DTSX are lossless audio that also include discrete height channels. Similar to Dolby TrueHD & DTSHD-MA but with height channels.
Would you consider doing a video on how/why studios choose whether Dolby Atmos and/or DTS-X are chosen as default BD audio formats? I've always been a big fan of DTS audio and while I know they came late to the 'enhanced audio party', the omission of DTS-X on most recent BD's puzzles me - considering that when I do watch a BD with DTS-X to my ears it is noticeably better sounding. Great video as usual. Thank you.
I think it has got a little bit to do with marketing. Like Dolby pushes its product hard. It’s everywhere..in phones, earbuds, tablets..you name it. So what I think Dolby does is that it reaches out to these studios and creates some sort of exclusive deal for BluRays. Because most high budget films are almost always mixed in all the formats: Dolby Atmos, Dolby 5.1, SDDS, Auro 11.1, IMAX 6ch, Dts, dts-x..etc..and Our beloved DTS gets left out. One more thing that could be is that DTS is simply more expensive to license than Atmos.
Back in the 35mm days of movies, all the surround formats were embedded on the film itself. At that point it was just a matter of which equipment was installed in the theatre. Dolby Digital was far more common as it appears it required the least amount of work and equipment.
Oh my go finally I got an answer! Everyone talks how you may not get the sound if your both devices are not eARC compatible and how eARC is not backwards compatible with ARC. Finally I got an answer that it actually is! I wonder where thos people get all this info from
Great info, Caleb. I have a 2021 QN800A (8k) eARC TV and my ~15 year old Pioneer VSX-1012 (Lucasfilm THX certified) receiver has no HDMI ports. It's that old. All RCA inputs.... It sounded great in 7.1 but recently the home theater audio started dropping out after a few minutes; I suspect some component is overheating killing the sound output... Time for an AV replacement! I ordered a Pioneer VSX-935 7.2 which has eARC. Can't wait to "receive" it and set it up! Then off to Florida, in retirement... :)
HDMI CEC didn't work properly at first until i updated my Apple TV to tvOS 17, it works perfectly now. We can control all the devices from our phones. I wish we had more control but what we have is enough.
In the Interwebs there’s muttering comments from various audio manufacturers about the frequently shifting standards of HDMI and its attempts to “do everything”. One audio firm, Schiit (no kidding, that’s the name) has introduced a “surround” processor they call Syn. Syn ignores HDMI and instead asks only for 2 channel input, like from your TV optical out set to “PCM STEREO” or some similar setting. The Syn then routes the “occurs in Left channel but NOT the right channel” to your surround Left speaker’s amp, the “occurs exactly at the same volume in both channels” to your center channel, and so on for 5.1 sound. If you’re trying to max your use of older equipment and ARC doesn’t exist on your TV, this may be an interesting option for you to consider, but realize: it’s not offering Dolby anything, and it feeds line level signals (like from a CD player) out, so you need an amplifier for each speaker (or self-powered speakers AKA active monitors). No, I don’t work for the company but I happily own other products of theirs. I’m considering Syn for a secondary TV setup using active monitors I already own.
Many thanks for the info on ARC and eARC, we are just about to buy a new TV and Receiver as both are 20 years old. Are all HDMI cables the same as reading between the lines on here you have to be sure that each cable is compliant with the appropriate HDMI Version. Buying a cable used to be so much easier
I've got an LG CX oled and when connecting it to a Pioneer VSX-522-K it loops into sending the sound to the receiver, seconds later back out of the TV, and repeat till forever haha... There is a way to break the loop but, as explained in the video, this tech is still not solid. I use optical out but hate to use 2 remotes, though. This video is super well explained
If you use EARC should you also remove the optical cable as well? The issue I am having with my surround sound now is when I listen to a movie on MAX like Dune or Mad Max I can’t hear anybody talking…but when the action begins it’s loud but when they go back to talking I can barely hear them talking..I have a 2 year old Denon receiver & 15 year old Energy speakers and sub woofer.
Mine seems to work GREAT w/my sound bar using optical. If you're running a full-blown Atmos the HDMI arc is needed. But Sound bars the surround sound is simulated soooo take your 10 extra HDMI cables and go optical...
Yes. Most people won't know the sound difference between the two. It's also 2022. You can get a universal remote on Amazon and program the TV and sound bar under the same input and not have to use 2 remotes.
in usual fashion, my eArc set up STILL had lip-sync problems. unfortunately, it WASNT a need to delay audio, the audio was BEFORE the picture. All the "audio delay" functions in the sounder didnt help, since by default it was already delayed. what was the answer? skip eArc and run each device directly into the soundbar. I swear its like a game of cat and mouse. All the "audio delay" functions seem to be from earlier days on older surround setups where picture processing delayed the video. so were caught between two time warps of something. unless im missing something. figured eArc would solve all these problems. I do like the global control since my blu ray player remote is with may left sock
Trying to get ARC working with my marantz receiver and Sony TV a few years ago, the response from both companies was basically that they have their own implementations that aren't guaranteed to work together. I ended up having to use an optical cable to get the audio to transfer reliably.
I hadn't heard about that, but I did run into problems with SONY receivers in general being very "piggish" in regard to how they handle ARC and CEC. Guess it's true of the displays too. Basically, I couldn't use ARC without CEC, but CEC isn't smart enough, so it was constantly turning on stuff but not off, and the receiver ended up on the wrong I/O. I finally gave up and swapped it for a comparable Denon. Was a shame b/c other than the ARC/CEC issue, the SONY receiver was better...especially handling video.
I still have everything setup through my receiver, and output to my T.V. It lets it be a cleaner setup, and allow me to move my T.V. further away from my equipment. For example, I can have a media closet, and have just the T.V and the speakers in the consumption room. (and gaming controllers, etc.)
Thanks for such a comprehensive video. Explained my age old question why my Samsung TV doesn't support DTS audio even though my soundbar supports the latest DTSx and Dolby Atomos technology. Felt like I was ripped off by Samsung from purchasing a 8000 dollar TV that doesn't support one of the most popular audio format😢.
QUESTION: I have the TX-NR5010 THX Ultra 2 Onkyo A/V Receiver. I remember buying it thinking, "Oh, it is 4K, so I should be futureproof forever." But I was wrong. Since I purchased that A/V Receiver, technologies such as HDR, Dolby Vision, and eARC became available. I will soon be getting the Hisense U8H that offers HDR technology and eARC. And I will soon be getting the Xbox Series X. My plan is to keep everything I currently have connected to my A/V Receiver. This includes my Xbox One, Comcast DVR, and Laptop. I plan to connect the Xbox Series X directly to the Hisense U8H in one of the inputs that allows 120hz at 4K Resolution. I would then connect the Hisense U8H eARC input to the ARC input of the Onkyo TX-NR5010 A/V Receiver. Do you believe this is a good plan that would allow the maximum features of the Xbox Series X be used for gaming and movies, while also sending the lossless audio signals to the A/V Receiver?
I don’t know your particular equipment, but your plan falls into this category of mine: it should work because the brochures say it will work; then if it doesn’t work each customer service rep will blame the other manufacturer; nonetheless if YOU spend a few hours playing with settings AND turning the various devices on in just the (inexplicably) correct order, it will work. Write this order down. A power outage will force you to recreate this mystical order. Good luck.
@@pdcragin33 My equipment centers around a THX Ultra 2 A/V Receiver that has HDMI 1.4 technology and an ARC cable, but not an HDMI 2.1 technology. Companies does even make THX Ultra 2 A/V Receivers anymore, so I definitely want to hang onto this A/V Receiver from Onkyo. But, the eArc for the purpose of audio wastes one of the two HDMI 2.1 inputs, except on a TLC TV - because TLC is the only company with enough brains to put the eArc input on a separate input.
I keep having the issue where there is no sound coming out of the TV. One of my newer Sony TVs. It defaults back to the internal speaker. I just decided to use a digital optical cable and turn the sound bar on and off with its own remote. The Apple fire stick volume control will only operate the TVs volume, and if it is set to audio even with the eARC connected HDMI cable, it won’t adjust the volume on the sound bar. I still have to use two remotes.
This was very beneficial, and I thank you. I am leaning towards a new AVR and TV. My stuff is rather old...AVR has S-video connections. In short, I run blu ray HDMI into ARC on 1080p Plasma (2010). I then optical out into SMSL SU-1, then into AVR, coz dac on 24 yr. old avr is not the best. I connect my Roku into regular HDMI on TV...picture with roku not great, yet is what it is. Perhaps I will step up up to hdmi 2.1 cables. My setup is 3.0....works well for me and sounds great.
3:07 i had a TV with arc and used only one remote to turn my AVR+TV on using one remote, the tv broke and i now use the older tv which doesn't have CEC. I am sad
