There’s a flush method where you remove the small hose that feeds in to the coolant bottle and divert that to a bucket. Allow the truck to warm up to operating temp. Remove that hose and put it into a bucket. Have someone hold the RPM at 2,000 and fluid will begin to come out. As it’s coming out, continue to add fluid to the reservoir so that it never runs below the larger tube at the bottom of the bottle. This method will allow you to get all of the fluid out without ever losing the original vacuum the cooling system had. When I’ve done this I first replace all of the fluid with distilled water, then I add concentrate and use a refractometer to check the concentration after a road test. It’s by far the cheapest and easiest way to flush the cooling system at home.
@@nmnarzI usually buy like 2 times the cooling system capacity when I am doing this. You'll basically be done with the water once you get nothing but clear fluid coming out though and that may not take more than the capacity to do.
I used this video to help with my coolant change and here's how I did it. 4 gallons of distilled water plus 2 gallons of concentrate. I drained under 2 gallons of the orange coolant , then I poured in 2 gallons of distilled water. Ran the engine with cabin heater for 10min. Drained it again while adding the 3rd and 4th gallon of distilled water with a little yellow mixed in. Then added the rest of first gallon of yellow. At this point I started draining into a clear bottle so I could check the coolant color coming out. Once it was almost completely clear, I closed the petcock, and starting adding 2nd yellow concentrate until it was just above the full mark. Took it out for a drive and came back slowly opened the cap and let out some air bubbles. The coolant went down a bit and it's now testing - 25F with a cheap coolant tester and it's all yellow now in the reservoir. Looks great to me.
I’m curious of some of your upgrades your upgrades as I have done as well I have done SCT programmer throttlebody spacer intake blow off valve and BRP 4 inch exhaust MSD coil packs performance Ford plugs and I just had timing chain and phasers done at 91,000 along with a new left turbo my exhaust manifolds were re-done at 82,000 and I just had them replace the valve covers with new valve cover gaskets but your videos are great
I did my F150 3.5 last week. I used a flush product from Advance auto. After draining I added the quart of flush with two gallons of distilled water. I drove the truck about 100 miles then drained the systems again. I noticed that the orange fluid that was still in the engine colored the flush and water. I think in your case you will find that the orange that was still in the engine that you will see a hybrid yellow/orange fluid. Like you said no big deal, you can redo it later.
On my sons 2010 we went as far as removing the water pump and flushing the engine with constant water flow from the thermostat housing as well as a heater core hose. We still found we had orange coolant left over.
Thanks for the video! Question??? Using air pressure also, it appears only half the systems coolant came out. How do we get most of it purged from the system?? Anyone? Thank you.
There are more than 4 gallons (16.5 quarts) of coolant in his 3.5 Ecoboost, but he only drained 1.75 gallons. In other words, he mixed the old with the new coolant.
Yes, and that's what you must do unless you have the system machine flushed. You can flush it yourself and instead of old coolant you will have water instead that will reduce cooling system efficiency and freeze protection.
Awesome video. Appreciate the information on how to do this. I noticed the K&N air filter on your truck. Could you do a video of how to properly clean it? I have the same truck as in the video.
Yes I can. I have a truck in right now with a neglected filter letting dirt in so that may be what I will do the video on. Right now though I have to reinstall the heads and get it back going first.
I put 2 gallons on my 2013 5.0, after I changed my water pump, and flushed it, I hope its not too much the rest I put distilled water....any one can relate?
I can tell you from first hand knowledge, short of pulling the engine and tipping and turning it over you will not get all the old coolant out. Here is what I suggest you do if you are serious about cooling system health. Remove the coolant tank/air cleaner assy from the truck and wash the the tank out best you can. Get several cups of crushed ice and pour it in the tank and shake like hell. Keep doing this until all the grime and crap is cleaned from the walls of the tank. Rinse well. Drain the cooling system like I did in the video and refill with the new yellow coolant. Drive the truck for a few hundred miles. And repeat. Drive a few hundred miles and repeat. Do this until the coolant is either clear or you are happy with the result. Your only other option is to go to a dealer and have them power flush the system with a machine. In my experience even after changing the coolant twice, when I drained it the third time to perform a timing system/oil pump/water pump change I found I still had orange coolant coming out of the block. They either do not actually mix together combining the colors or the cooling system circulates so slow it never really forces all the old coolant from the block. I really do not know. Just remember to keep water/coolant ratios at 50/50 from start to finish or you will have too much of one or the other.
@@BOSSC351sProductions for my Ford F53 7.5L V8 motor home chassis. The coolant in it is green. Also I did the research and the coolant I will use meets Ford ESE-M97B44-A standard which is exactly what the owners manual calls for.
@@BOSSC351sProductions negative it's a different engine 4.6l 2 v, no hose on the bottom just a reserve, took me way too long to figure it out. Non pressurized cap on my overflow reserve box.
No. The bottle is basically a degass tank anyway. When filling you are pushing out the air through the bottle already. Any pockets will automatically fill and air will escape directly to the bottle.
@@BOSSC351sProductions you may want to make your link to the Ford bulletin a Sticky so others can easily find it at the top of the comments. I have a ‘13 Focus I bought new. I did a drain and refill with Orange in ‘17, then did a drain and refill with Yellow in ‘21. This summer I did a drain and refill with Yellow. So far so good I live near Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada. According to my dealer, their biggest problem with Orange was that in extreme cold weather, the Orange would gel and plug heater cores in F150’s Excellent video keep it up
@@BOSSC351sProductions I have poured 2 gallons from coolant to a f 150 2011 5.0L from what I see in your video I have done the process wrong. How far can I travel and not cook my engine? I ask because I want to take it to a place that knows how to do the process.
@@vicentebchacon it’s probably fine, just a waste of money to put concentrate in there. I would drain a gallon, then add a gallon of distilled water. Should be good
When you do that 1: you add minerals to the cooling system that cause corrosion especially if you have well water.. 2: you do not know how much water is in the system that you must offset with concentrated coolant. If the system is already contaminated and has corrosion then your best bet may be to let a Ford dealer use their flush machine on it instead.
I hate being that guy but, deionized water is bad for the cooling system. You should used softened water. Distilled or deionized water strips electrons/ions from the metal, causing extreme corrosion.
Per Motorcraft instructions: "A 50/50 mixture of this antifreeze/coolant and distilled water provides year-round freeze protection down to -34 °F (-36.7 °C) and boiling protection up to 265 °F (129 °C)"
@@BOSSC351sProductions You're doing the right thing and it's according to Ford's recommended procedure. In laymen terms, distilled water is more "pure" than soft water and does not have the salt that soft water has.
Corrosion is complicated and sometimes non-intuitive, but deionized water "stripping electrons" from metal doesn't make sense to me in a giant conductive metal system. It is well known that salt water does exacerbate corrosion in metallic systems including automobiles.
I've replaced so many cooling systems on my own cars from using distilled water. Took me years to figure it out. If you change it every year, no harm. Leave it in for longer and it could cause damage.
That's true if the cooling system was pure distilled water. Once mixed with antifreeze it's no longer pure water. If your theory was correct there would be class action lawsuits. I was replacing my rusted out water heater every 5 years even though I have soft water. I now check and replace the anode rod every couple years. No problems with corrosion since.
