This video makes it appear that its less than vertical and thus 5.10ish but look at the last draw he clips, its dangling freely, so its likely 5 degrees beyond vertical, probably 11+ to 12-, nice send.
It's a 6c or 5.11b. I only filmed the crux, which gave me some trouble. I usually onsight at that grade, but this one took me 2 attempts to figure out how to do this sequence. Thanks for the comment!
It's dangerous!! A few days after this foot slip, a friend of mine fell while clipping, and twisted his ankle, a small fracture and some bruises!! Scary
Find a good hold and shake em out. I did not see any point you relaxed. Do I relax on 1/4 pad crimps? No. If there is a solid hold you bet your ass im resting, pumped or not.
So I'm confused here, from my eyes (not a rock climber) where was he just "relaxing"? and why should you not do it? I've climbed a shit load of trees and sometimes you just kinda need to relax
@@user-oe1xt9px8x it's just because when I relaxed at the end of the video, I also lost focus, and that made me lose tension on the right foot, causing it to slip, and nearly wasting a red point attempt. Maybe instead of the word "relax" I should have said not to lose focus... I see many people misinterpreted the message (obviously because I wasn't clear on my word selection)... I hope that clarifies what I meant 👍
Mapo, you can use stance change to slow down time. While you hold R2, time slows down for about 3 seconds before it moves at regular speed again. This is super useful for landing perfect parries and perfect dodges, and it works during boss fights
It was a bit hard at the start, the right hand pocket was pretty bad.. and the last move there was no feet below, so I had to use one on the left, which made the move a bit hard...
Sir, not to diss on you, but why didnt you moved your feet more? This rock is super rough so they seems like they would have stayed anywhere, and you made some really strechy moves because you didnt had good feet positions
Hey thanks for the comment! This attempt was after working out the beta for this section... So, if there were better feet options, I would have used them. Either that, or super strong fingers (which I don't have) to pull on terrible feet options.
When I got relaxed by the last hold, I slipped and almost fell. I'm trying to say that you should stay focused until the chains are clipped, otherwise you could lose an onsight or red point by a small mistake like that.
@JorgePacker I meant that every time there is a video, there is a camera attached above them even tho it's a very long climb. It seems like it was there for your whole climb, yet you almost fell when you were right under it.
@@SammanAhani I actually finished the climb first, then I got the camera an put it in position because I really enjoyed that sequence! Then I down-climbed a few bolts, and climbed that section again. But I wasn't expecting to slip and almost fall at the end, that was not intended...
I couldn't see his mouth, but experienced climbers hold the rope with only their lips, not their teeth. The rope will just slip out and you won't accidentally bite down
When I got relaxed by the last hold, I slipped and almost fell. I'm trying to say that you should stay focused until the chains are clipped, otherwise you could lose an onsight or red point by a small mistake like that.
I wish I could avoid shaking and panting when I'm trying something that is hard for me! It looks like you didn't understand the message in the video though (intelligence issue maybe?)
Well, climbing includes planning, balancing, adrenaline, physics for efficiency, beautiful places, new people and much more. If you find illogical that a person gets enjoyment from all these I guess you don't really understand humans.
