Hi Bob, When I was going to welding school in 1981 my instructors told us many times that when we get jobs in the field, the equipment will be crap, the fits will be crap, the conditions will be crap and we will have to be good enough welders to overcome all these obstacles. They were absolutely correct, I've heard the job Forman tell complaining welders "if you can't hack it, pack it" many times since then.
Love watching you burning rods. What a master. When I'm running rods I am always thinking about how you might be doing it in one of these videos. Really pushes me to go beyond just getting it done. Thanks again for another great video!
Good stuff, Mr. Moffatt!! I actually proved to a guy you can determine the weld process and electrode for SMAW just by the smell. Did a blindfolded test and picked out the MiG, TiG and Stick process. Even told him when he had a cellulose rod and a low-hydrogen rod.
The new camera or lens is awesome on the arc shots! Crystal clear! Best in the business.👍Bob looks better with the old camera though. This one makes him look like Ebeneezer Scrooge.
Somehow I'm not real surprised. I'm just stoked to see the channel back to producing exceptional videos again. Can't thank ya enough Bob, it's a pleasure learning from you.
Dear Mr. Moffet, would you make a video on how to control/avoid excessive spatter when stick welding? In some video lessons there is no appreciable spatter, but today in 1/2" material there was high spatter for the 1st half of the root pass.
@@Welddotcom have you tried the speedglas 9100 series? The xxi is top of the line. I got the x. Xxi wasn't out at the time but I still love my hood. Xxi has actual colors when welding stainless. Amazing clarity all around
Hey Bob I have a question. I'm not a professional welder but I've done a lot of repairs on farm equipment and done a number of small fab jobs. I was told that verticals should always be done uphill and never questioned it until I saw this video on downhill roots. What is the reasoning behind the choice on direction of the weld pass?
Like a boss! But lookit, let's say you're in the field, one electrode size, no specs (maybe building fence), and hella gaps. I imagine if running uphill you'd wanna turn the heat down a bit? I've ran into that, and call me scared, but I'd usually grab some 6013. I've tried Texas tigging, but with varied effects (usually not good).
I had 3 hire in tests at steam generator changout a few years back. 2 of the tests were miss match fit-ups. 3/16 gap on one side and 1/16 on the other with 1/16 high-low.
Did you not clean the slag and wire brush the stop/starts in the first pass? What do you think about just using the 5/32 for the entire pass? Wouldn't that have been better (such as pipe welding in the field or something similar?). This was a narrow/wide fit up video and it went very well, but the stop/starts would not pass an x-ray do you think? Highly educational and filming was excellent!
So I'm hearing, "on the job you'd wanna chip it, brush it, grind in the on ramp and go. In practicing your welding, not so much unless you need chipping/grinder practice". Does that sounds about right?
What is "dig" that you talked about when doing the pass on the back of the plates? I think you said it was set at 70%, is that like when you pulse Tig? Sorry if this is a dumbass question, these videos (and Jody's) are the only welding instruction I've ever had.
Justin Hall thanks for your explanation. I've only ever stick welded with a buzzbox that's well over 30 years old at least. That must be a feature that comes on newer inverter/transformer machines.
Hi! You mention a 5/32 rod... then smaller rod. Are you referring to the diameter of the rod or is it a specific designation for composition? I bet it’s an obvious answer... but I’ve actually never touched this process at all.
keep the same size rod, turn down your heat, and whip your rod as you would up hand ,use your arc blow and tip your rod end up to keep the metal up , make sure to tie in the lands properly ( rounded key hole ) , if still to wide, larger diameter rod . Wider yet back to smaller rod drag a stringer bead on one side on the land to build it up to narrow the gap ,do the same on the other side . It can be done with practice even wide with high low. Iron bound fit up on the plate he has, use a 5/32 disc if you have one. Grind down the middle of the fit up till you reach just a little past the top of your land . This technique reduces your heat sink and allows for penetration . Depending on your grinding set your heat higher according to the penetration rate you want . if done right it will weld as easy as a perfect fit up . Down hand is easy with practice and a lot faster than up hand .If your doing bad fit ups on pipe always do your tight spots first . keep up the good work Bob
I've just bought a small inverter stick and just after a few pointer if anyone can help I can keep a good steady arc but beads look crap like it's too long arc, how close to the puddle with the rod do I go? I can get it so it's in the puddle an still running but is that right?
I need help with 7018 vertical up. I could do it on my tombstone a.c. machine but I just bought an everlast 200 st and every time I try it o just make a huge creator and I can't figure out where I'm going wrong.
First time I ran 6010 a couple weeks ago I didn't know what I was doing without first time I ever touched a 6010 but not a 60 rod I have ran 6011 and hated it. So for the 6010 I ran at 85-86 amps.
How often do you encounter fit up like that, and in a work environment, how practical is it to constantly change rods back and forth on a single weld? Not a professional welder, so I’m curious.
When you're in the field welding you will NEVER have a perfect fit, also a lot of the time you can't choose different size rods you weld with what they give you
