🔥IFSC Women's Final World Cup INNSBRUCK Bouldering 2023

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Here is the amazing Women's Final IFSC Boulder World Cup Innsbruck 2023.
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01:39 Boulder 1
15:24 Boulder 2
25:17 Boulder 3
40:29 Boulder 4
AI MORI: W1 02:15 || W2 16:04 || W3 25:54 || W4 41:06
NATALIA GROSSMAN: W1 04:10 || W2 17:10 || W3 28:34 || W4 43:51
JANJA GARNBRET: W1 06:49 || W2 18:40 || W3 32:17 || W4 47:09
MIHO NONAKA: W1 08:00 || W2 20:06 || W3 33:22 || W4 50:43
FUTABA ITO: W1 09:53 || W2 21:29 || W3 36:00 || W4 52:59
BROOKE RABOUTOU: W1 12:42 || W2 23:43 || W3 38:13 || W4 55:49

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Опубликовано:

15 июн 2023

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Комментарии : 290

@sebbosaurus8026 Год назад

The Routesetters this weekend: we don't like short climbers! ^^

@TheTjeerd17 Год назад

The last problem with the toe hook is a bit tricky to judge, but the start on the first boulder was definitely more a power and technique issue than a height issue (Of course being short is a disadvantage on this sort of move, but i feel like people are too quick to judge the setters)

@skip1860 Год назад

She clearly wasn't too short for the first one because she got it twice and the last one she just sucked at so boo hoo

@mx2000 Год назад

@@TheTjeerd17It is literally a check of how high you can reach up with your hands from the mat. I don’t see how you could make it more height-dependent. And it adds nothing to the boulder, it’s not technically challenging, it has nothing to do with bouldering.

@mondociaociao Год назад

excuses, excuses, excuses.

@mondociaociao Год назад

@@mx2000 what are you saying? most boulder athletes in Innsbruck height around 1.60-1.65 (janja is 1.64), only the little japanese Mori is 1.54 (is her problem). I would like to be a basket man but I'm "only" 1.80... do you want to change the sport because most people is not 2.00 mt? come on.

@lazaroprod Год назад

Could someone explain to the people who film these events that it's a problem if we can't see what the athletes are doing? Too many close ups at the wrong moment, even the commentators don't know what's going on

@10freekie2 Год назад

Yeah missing the feet at the second boulder especially because they want the face close up every time was soo annoying. The feet movement was such an interesting part there..

@HerrFinsternis Год назад

Of course I can't truly tell, but this comp felt really unfair towards the shortest climbers. Thanks for leaving in the Janja recap of W4 ✌️

@Hubertus-ko6yl Год назад

And unfair for heavy climbers too 🤫🤫

@HerrFinsternis Год назад

Of which there weren't any, but there were two climbers significantly shorter then the others. I imagined the could maybe heelhook in blue hold bit since nobody even looked at that I guess you can't. But the intended toehook leaves them so overextended (if they could could even make it into that position in the first place) it doesn't look like an option either. But hey, I know nothing. It's just how it looks to my amateur eyes.

@skip1860 Год назад

Are you fucking crying about it

@marinama5005 Год назад

@@Hubertus-ko6yl That's a silly comparison since you can loose weight when you are too heavy, but can you still grow a little taller ?

@hubblebublumbubwub5215 Год назад

It's also unfair towards climbers who aren't Janja Garnbret

@mx2000 Год назад

Kinda annoying that Ai Mori just got straight up height checked at the first boulder. This really shouldn't happen in modern routesetting, there are already enough sports where height is an advantage. Good competition otherwise.

@inerti4 Год назад

She grabbed it twice, meaning she was tall enough to do it. The final boulder tho, that toe-hook was definitely not designed for her 🤦🏻

@mx2000 Год назад

@@inerti4 she was the only climber who had to single-hand grab it, making this significantly harder. W2 also had a jump, and W4 had the toehook extension. Might as well put up a sign “you must be this tall to compete” at the entry.

@kurono122 Год назад

I agree, it didn't really seem fair to her really. I know sports are not meant to mean equality, but say if someone were shorter than Ai but a great climber. That really would be a handicap

@VVashabi Год назад

Maybe at 154cm you should train your jumps or give up professional climbing... Average female height is over 160cm, they can't compensate too much for outliers. Also she had advantage over others by being the lightest, so if you compensate for height do you do that for weight too?(And how?)

@mx2000 Год назад

@@VVashabi she made it to finals, so obviously she is one of the best female climbers in the world. Advantages and disadvantages are one thing, but if the routesetters can simply kick you out of any competition whenever they feel like it by building a boulder that is simply physically impossible for people below a certain height (like the w4 toehook), then that isn't a fair competition anymore.

@mx2000 Год назад

Btw, thanks for the edit. I feel like this is a really good length, concise but doesn’t feel rushed and still gives space to climbers reactions.

@andieluke1366 Год назад

2:12 I highly appreciate the female commentator's gesture of correcting herself and referring to Ai as Mori Ai, using the Japanese naming convention of [surname] [given name], even if it is common practice to use [given name] [surname] in international sports for standarization. It's a simple act, but is a sign of respect for Mori Ai's culture, and speaks volumes of the commentator's character!

@emilwandel 7 месяцев назад

I don't know. In Germany both ways are common Müller, Peter or Peter Müller. The commas sign the last name was written first.

@realrebelli0n 5 месяцев назад

@@emilwandel we are talking about Japan though and not Germany.

@reennadelp1350 Год назад

What’s really upsetting about the first boulder to me is that I doubt lowering the start would have changed the beta for anyone, so why make it start so high?

@nikolaifomin3507 Год назад

first boulder not even bouldering, thats just super bias, bully and hate toward short people !

@briseboy Год назад

@@nikolaifomin3507 I hate being shot, as my blood leaks out of the resulting hole. But the first "problem" appears exactly like the "american ninja" business, without the trampoline. I notice that course setters this year are abandoning anything remotely like climbing in many cases. A men's boulder comp, somewhere on the circuit posed impossible angled horizontal running, with no hope of gripping or even slapping the completely sideways "holds" which had no opposing surface for side pulls. Let's just call it "coursesetters gone wild", and recognize it as cheap porn.

@kukukachu Год назад

She absolutely deserves that gold. She KILLED every run with precision and completed everything with passion, focus and elegance.

@ZG0002 Год назад

Janja is unreal, the 3rd and 4th boulders being flashed was great to watch.

@logandw5971 Год назад

Annoying for Ai Mori ! I fee like the rout setters set some holders on purpose knowing she wont be able to reach. It sad that most of the girls have all holds whitin arms reach 😢 no fair !!

@fvm_6464 7 месяцев назад

The height here is a huge bonus, which is not fair. Interesting to see Janja in the same position like Ai Mori, when you need to be a good jumper instead of climber))

@Taykorjg Год назад

I really don't like these boulders at all. It's like "Oh the tallest person is probably going to make it and the shorter people will struggle a lot" Which happened. Wasn't suprised at all by the results. Is this really a competition at this point? Why make these young athletes go through this?

@1877Pegasus 8 месяцев назад

Totally. It's supposed to be climbing, not jumping

@fvm_6464 7 месяцев назад

Agree, not fair

@marckirby7356 7 месяцев назад

No ones making anyone

@myka788 6 месяцев назад

Its a shame!! I wonder if they are just trying to get cool camera shots at this point. It's more like a climbing/parkour hybrid. Seems that climbing technique is on the back burner.

@Taykorjg 6 месяцев назад

@@Neomalthusiano No I don't get it because it's literally the second best women's sport climber in the world not even able to start a boulder problem. It wasn't even that the problem had very difficult moves, it's just impossible. I'd imagine being a sports guy as well you'd appreciate the athletes' feats of athleticism.

@onesquirrel2713 Год назад

This is so cool to watch, even for someone like myself who can barely climb out of my own bed.

@thomaskositzki9424 Год назад

Unsaked for advice: go and try out a Boulder Gym! I did very easy and easy routes for 4 years before getting into tryhard mode and still fully enjoyed it. Even at this level it is the best all-round body workout I can think of, back problems be gone! 😃👍

@race2mars 7 месяцев назад

Go try it, you'll have a blast trust me!

@B0K1T0 6 месяцев назад

Been bouldering (and climbing in general) for years now, sometimes more often than other times and it never gets old for me. Such a wonderful community as well, at least in Europe from what I've experienced, but I think it's quite universal :)

@ANDanotherOne32 5 дней назад

Mori Ai's technique for boulder 4 is soooooo cool (regardless of zone). Only one who thought if it and it was so smooth. Savage 🤙

@thomaskositzki9424 Год назад

Got sweaty hands just from watching! 😯 Just AWESOME performances!😃👍

@B0K1T0 6 месяцев назад

29:59 ah I was completely living this and felt so relieved she made it in time (or so I thought for a few seconds 😭)

@matteospinsanti2435 Год назад

what a bad planned competition. The competition shouldn-t be determined by the height of the starting position. Shame on those who defined the first bouder.

@take8005 Год назад

It would be interesting to see how it would go if the problem was adapted to the height of each person

@silentsandwind Год назад

small people would win cos they have less body weight to carry. Brooke would own everyone.

@tsesck2008 Год назад

As long as Garnbret is there, everyone else is just hoping to get a silver. She is just like Bolt in track and field

@thomaskositzki9424 Год назад

I don't mind because she is such a sympathetic person! World Rallye Championship in the 2000's and 2010's was being dominated by an emotionally completely cold dude. Would hardly smile when winning a race, didn't show any emotions at all. I hated him for being so detached. Here I feel nothing but sympathy!

@briseboy Год назад

Nuts to Bolt. a gaint, with 95% fast-twitch muscles. Janja is pretty much the same height as all other female competitors, as you saw when lined up.

@rizkyadiyanto7922 9 месяцев назад

she lost to AI Mori

@MrPainfulTruth Год назад

I dont even understand how one can argue here about what one athlete needs to add or how much of a difference 4 cm make. That is couch warrior talk. The bottom line for me is the route setters did a really poor job on multiple boulders and if this continues we might lose some of the best and most inspiring climbers out there. It is absolutely unneccessary to force a minimum height. Whats next? You need to have a certain weight so the boulder gives in a bit?

@sallywatson2679 Год назад

janja garnbret is 10cm taller than Ai Mori not 4cm, my couch is very comfy thanks

@matteospinsanti2435 Год назад

come on, put the start at 3.10, so only very tall girls can get there... it has nothing to do with climbing.

@lihanrui Год назад

The wasn't much to see here. Short people might as well not compete. Boring competition.

@tomriddle2257 2 месяца назад

Where is the unfair part? The jump of the first boulder? If not, then please give a minute mark so that I know what you speak about.

@sallywatson2679 Год назад

Does anybody else think they deliberately made this boulder course so Mori Ai had no chance to win? Surely the course should be set so everybody has a fair chance to top out? This was physically impossible for Mori Ai to complete, no matter how long or how many attempts she had. I remember a lead comp last year and the first hold was so high, three or four competitors could not even start! This has to be wrong.

@gabrielle1341 Год назад

I totally agree. In boulder 4 it was obvious that the yellow volume was way too far for her. By the way, do you remember what comp this was or where it was ? I would like to see it.

@benjamingretic6540 Год назад

@@gabrielle1341 it was in Innsbruck, austria

@snefansson Год назад

I don't think it was deliberate, I think they kinda go by average height when they judge if a boulder is doable. This is just speculation but this sport is still young (in relative terms) and has yet to see the full potential of its athletes. It MIGHT be that in the future you just can't reach podium if you're not a great talent AND tall. Sort of like in basketball(there are exceptions ofc). Again this is just speculation.

@theobserver_224 Год назад

Let me ease your mind , ai mori had no chance of winning this boulder comp anyways .

@sallywatson2679 Год назад

@@theobserver_224 yes you are right, Ai Mori could not win, the route setters made sure of that. I fully accept that janja garnbret is a fantastic climber and deserves her accolades. My problem is, IF she is so good and will always win why do they need to rig the course to her advantage? surly if she is so good, she would win anyway? even with a fair to all climber's route.

@SovereignsGreed Год назад

Thanks for uploading these Comps.

@Juubax Год назад

OK... this first boulder is nearly the most stupid and unfair ever set...

@victoriabill9257 Год назад

wow, just wow - congrats janja, that was amazing!

@zzclimber Год назад

2nd time watch, Miho actually have a chance to win🥈 on 3rd boulder

@couchpotatoe91 Год назад

I've never actively watched this sport, but just watching Janja on that first wall made me realize she is on a whole nother level compared to her competition. Insane!

@DonkeyClimbMedia Год назад

Please check the description for the climbers' times! Men's final here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JIOkPHbSWe0.html Cheers!😁

@nikolaifomin3507 Год назад

What was the routesetters thinking on the first start ?! Like what the hell with that height ! superiority complex ?

@gapslip 2 месяца назад

So completely weighted in Janja's favour. I felt so sorry for Ai Mori. There need's to be more well rounded boulder setters at this level of competition.

@veerleverhagen Год назад

I realise other people are into it but 'm really not enjoying this edit. With bits cut out all over the place, including between multiple attempts at the same boulder by a single athlete, it absolutely feels like we're in a hurry to get this over with. I really enjoyed last year's edit, it was longer but I did get to see something that actually made sense and built up some kind of tension.

@williamfullmer857 21 день назад

Thank you Bridget, this flow was perfect for my Sunday morning practice.

@beatewester4777 Год назад

Yeah - Janja is back 😍🤩😍🤩🤩

@NightyBla Год назад

32:00 the clocks don't lie but the clock has no milliseconds. So it was 0 but from 0:00.999 to 0:00.000 is nearly another second.

@realrebelli0n 5 месяцев назад

No, when the clock shows 1, time is going from 1 to 0.001, and then 0 is actually 0.

@ytpete2 Год назад

Was it bothering anyone else that on the first boulder they would always flash the "victory" lights when the climber only got one hand on the finish hold? I'd always thought you need two hands stabilized on the final hold for it to count. It seems weirdly distracting that the lights would start flashing before that moment, in the middle of the final move of the problem...

@carina-nonbinary Год назад

I was annoyed by that too. There's a lot of improvement to be made here

@kevinatok Год назад

Thanks for editing and uploading!!!!

@shayneclimbsrocks09 4 месяца назад

i love how futaba ito's gear is all pink so cute!

@WeaselBeeH Год назад

Thank you so much! I love watching these

@Ludwighaffen1 Год назад

FYI, a lâcher is a french word meaning "to let go". It comes from gymnastics when athletes create momentum, let go of the bar, fly above it and then catch it again.

@lordbuckethead8502 Год назад

And as usual, the camera crew and director have no idea what they are doing. Please stop zooming in on their faces while they are climbing.

@defnotanny 11 месяцев назад

This is the first time I am watching bouldering and I am already kind of upset that they made the first course so high, I feel like the course would not have suffered from being a tiny bit lower.

@juliat01 Год назад

Yesss, yessss, the queen is back!!!🤩

@Ianmundo 9 дней назад

Miho is such a babe 😍 🇯🇵

@dollsNcats 7 месяцев назад

How do you even get this good lol . I started over the summer and it’s not easy 🤣

@carina-nonbinary Год назад

Note to the cutter: if there's tricky footwork we want to see it and not just the face lol

@10freekie2 Год назад

What an emotional and exhilarating finals! From half a seconds too late to missing starting positions to amazing almost fall saves to the top…

@leeyo4644 10 месяцев назад

💪💪💪❤❤❤

@aexreslma4948 Год назад

Thanks Donkey for sharing ! I'm a bit disappointed by the rout setter 1 slab and 3 dynos we could have seen better :/

@itsodiumchloride9516 5 месяцев назад

46:22 someone explain how Ai ever had a chance at doing this move? routesetters putting literal impossible problems for shorter climbers lmfao

@AdonisGaming93 9 месяцев назад

As a old school parkour practitioner in the 2000s this commentator knows wassup. I've done lashes many times. It is hard to get distance with it so whenever athletes complete them like this it is a show of ability.

@niravelniflheim1858 Год назад

32:29 Janja just casually recovers the wild swing that stumped Natalia and dashes to top, WOW! 😂

@lvchengbin1409 Год назад

Would anyone like to explain to me the rule of ranking? Why does Natalia Grossman get the silver but Miho Nonaka gets the bronze when they have the same scores?

@briseboy Год назад

Countback. number of tries. Past ties have even been resolved by counting back into semis.

@unclepasha2718 Год назад

The Queen is back

@Triggerboy78 10 месяцев назад

The first boulder is a disgrace. It would have worked the same if it were 20cm lower and not fucking with the really short climbers. This is climbing not parcour. EDIT: wow.. and the last boulder as well... just look how close the top was for Janja... no way any of the shorter climbers would have got a chance to even reach it.

@user-ft4vd7ng7h Год назад

Janja просто великолепна! Абсолютное превосходство

@nomadinbali7014 Год назад

Janja does Janja thing on W3. Doing what nobody else might do.

@snowkracker Год назад

I love watching Janja Garnbret.

@matkosmat8890 8 месяцев назад

Janja rocks!

@CruiseWavy1388 4 месяца назад

Ai Mori's dyno leshay move was actually so easy. When she swings you can see her knees almost touch the hold... so easy man

@yyyy-uv3po 2 дня назад

32:46 Spiderman would be proud of her

@optimusprime9456 3 месяца назад

6:17 - Red Bull knew exactly, where we will stare at, to place the logo behind =))

@MichaelSol96 8 месяцев назад

Hi, Janja es muy buena, pero obviamente tiene una gran ventaja sobre las demás... Su estatura.

@runchpanda8079 Месяц назад

30:40 OMG

@itscharlieschannel 9 месяцев назад

Janja reminds me of my Uncle Jim. He used to flash in front of everyone.

@georgepace9797 Год назад

Hey they mentioned the stregth of the competition and said how hannah was missing. How come?

@lill8537 Год назад

Hannah (in her Instagram) said she was not fully recovered from an illness and tried to power through this time and failed. She decided (rightly so) when she was knocked out of boulders to skip lead and head home to fully rest and recover.

@youuuuuuuuuuutube Год назад

32:46 I said wow

@wahyuseeker Год назад

please tell me, what song is in minute 53 when futaba ito is in action

@sashamakeev7547 Год назад

Omg Janja is just a beast

@nawwk79 9 месяцев назад

Janja is the Messi of women's climbing.

@simonisenberg4516 Год назад

32:47 what even is gravity? :D

@Cobinja 8 месяцев назад

I would love to see cam on the route setter's faces when Janja does something which they said is impossible.

@aerdraiochta Год назад

I feel so bad for futaba :(

@Selfreplyingbot Год назад

Routesetter fails at best !

@chriswitter8067 Год назад

What the hell was that first move of W1? What did it serve, except as a test of height? W3... same problem. W4... same problem... I like to to see Janja win, but not simply because she's the tallest... At what point does the routesetting become biased? It's good that Janja also climbed so amazingly perfectly, or it would feel worse.

@x3kc Год назад

Janja OP!

@miloplayz7474 8 месяцев назад

It’s like twice the difficulty if you’re short. So unfair

@civiSapper Год назад

4 flashes

@wahyuseeker Год назад

Please tell me, what song in minute 52:59 please tell me

@oceanbreeze9248 Год назад

Where did the scary fall of Natalia happen exactly? They were talking about it somewhere in the video.. 🤔

@ceroorec2153 4 месяца назад

9:18 "Nobody's really listening...right?" lol

@BOBAODS 5 месяцев назад

32:16 JANJA G (SLO)

@Rodrifuuu Год назад

Janja can play Galadriel in the next reboot of LotR.

@vickvick3710 Год назад

Janja Gold Garnbret

@jeffreychongsathien Год назад

To be honest, I'm starting to think this whole "World Cup" and medal format thing might be inferior to a league format.

@Nachtgrabb Год назад

whats that song on 20:25?

@dandieter3065 Год назад

What does it mean to get the zone hold ?

@AidenDesJames Год назад

It's just that marked checkpoint midway that gives u a half-point. To get it you just need to use the hold it's marked on

@dandieter3065 Год назад

@@AidenDesJames ah ok thanks :D

@dennis1802 5 месяцев назад

Janja is so strong well deserved tears.. Innsbruck lives up the the fame with brutal hard boulders. But i agree we should take the long term effects on the climbers in mind. I figure thus aint the best for your body long term

@lukas8385 Год назад

23:23 Oh no =(

@antonioortix6122 Год назад

Oooj{o esa Janja siempre robando ❤ jeje.

@danielandretupayachi2691 Год назад

47:35 what’s the name of the song? 👀

@takijeden9222 Год назад

Timmy Trumpet & Savage - Freaks

@samuelmyles8813 5 месяцев назад

😢😢😢😢😢😢

@bloomeu1692 Год назад

13:15 why the judge forced her to restart ?

@corentind-r1597 Год назад

She didn't put her feet on the starting hold, probably cost her a medal

@ruffusgoodman4137 Год назад

Guys, water over the lens? Nobody else watching this?

@jeffreychongsathien Год назад

If climbing doesn't introduce size classes like boxing and MMA, it'll end up like the NBA, or men's tennis.

@SunnyMorningPancakes Год назад

I think it might be less of a problem for lead, but definitely in bouldering. When one of the best women climbers in the world can't even start the boulder entirely because of their height it stops being a skill based competition.

@jeffreychongsathien Год назад

@@SunnyMorningPancakes Climbing needs to decide "What characteristics define the best individual climber relative to others in the group" and as much as possible normalize the other variables out of the equation. Right now, it's not even acknowledging the problem.

@kesitron9302 Год назад

how did NBA and men's tennis end up?

@jeffreychongsathien Год назад

@@kesitron9302 Boring and stupid, where height (min 6ft 6 in) is overvalued.

@Archihuman Год назад

@@SunnyMorningPancakes Brooke is only 4cm taller than Mori and she did it with ease. The trade off of being as light as a feather is that she lacks power, she can't have it both ways

@tarkhamknight209 Месяц назад

How did Natalia beat miho

@i-3305 Год назад

Whats the song at 56:30 ?

@beebeeseeb8376 Год назад

armin van buuren vs vini vici - great spirit

@i-3305 Год назад

@@beebeeseeb8376 are you sure? It sounds different to me...

@beebeeseeb8376 Год назад

could be an mix.. but yes im pretty sure ☺

@vanderslagmulders 10 месяцев назад

I love these presenters but I can’t find their names.

@Saiyaaaaa 5 месяцев назад

Matt Groom and Alannah Yip (Team Canada)

@leahcahoon6987 Месяц назад

This competition was unfair to short people. Even Natalia was too short.

@niravelniflheim1858 Год назад

Whenever I saw "where is Ai Mori?!" in the comments on other videos I would wonder "why are they asking about the Russian RU-vidr who does song covers?", and now I see my mistake! Oops. 😅 Both Ai Moris are great. 🥰

@user-dk5hm5dl4o 7 месяцев назад

Height shouldn't play as much of a role in competitive climbing as it did in this competition.

@HcDaN 7 месяцев назад

what's wrong at 13:16 ??????? newbie asking

@misfitvillainz1769 4 месяца назад

Late response but the starter hold needs to be touched by both hands and feet, she only used her hands before going to the next hold, so she got stopped and on her next attempt you can see her briefly touching the starter hold with her feet as well before continuing.