This video is exactly what I’ve been explaining to the last three contractors that came to my house.... One even told me those blocks are not important (Im missing a few of the blocks) Thank you very much for this video! And your balance is crazy walking on those joist like its a regular floor lol
Those blocks actually make the floor one floor. Otherwise you have a bunch of individual floor Joist , but those blocks lock the floor together so the weight is transferred across multiple floor Joist as opposed to just one. I learned that from this old house,
Thank you sir very very much for that that means a lot to us. Thank you for the great comment and support thanks for watching our video. We appreciate you very much 👍😎
You should precut those block before toe nailing the joists in place. By precutting them to the proper spacing, you get better alignment of the joists and a stronger floor. Cutting to fit cooked boards is always wrong. Precut the blocking and do it right the first time!
Thanks for the comment Brian. That is a great tip! The way we did it is not wrong its just how we do it. I really like your recommendation on the precut blocks that will speed up framing and keep it really nice and square. Thanks for the comment! :-}
*Live load includes furniture, people and things not used in building the structure itself. 2x12s, fittings, OSB etc contribute to dead weight. You rocked it with that floor 👍
I experienced creaky noises when I installed blocking in my crawlspace after replacing some joists. What finally worked without noise was a combination of Simpson angles, shims (wherever I couldn't get a uniform snug fit), glue, and toenailing. Building new looks so much easier than repairing stuff while lying on your back. 😃
Looking to do some blocking as my spans are a bit long. So floor is a bit bouncy when kids run across lol. So, would like to block main traffic ways before I start adding any beams in the crawlspace.
I also subjectivly had excessive bounce. I notices my 1x3 cross bracings werent even attacted at the top. I ripped them out and used trig to mitter some 2x4 cross braces. But they didnt help enough. So rather than install blocking too i pulled the wires out along with some heater ducts and sistered all of them. At $20+ each 2x10x16 i figured it was worth it to do the 7 joists under my living room. I noticed code doesnt allow the builder to use #2 spf board 16 feet long like he did and most of the boards that had knots near the bottom edge all cracked up through the knots, some had 4" cracks. I decided on joist from Menards called MSR 2400. Worked pretty well. So a couple months later i did the rest of my house and even had to pull the gas line down, pull 5 curcuits and both the heat and return air ducts. Man i wish the builder of this mf'er would have done it right like the guy in this video. There was so much creak noise and the old glue seems to have been bad too. Question: Now im planning to add blocking between sistsered joists and i assume im either going to: A) toenail shoot them or B) use hangers every where. Its just a 1100 square foot ranch so if i have to add another $100 in hangers so be it. But i might C) stager the blockings using 5 or 6 inch nails so i sink the nail a decent amount into the blocking through the double joists. D) Also i dont know how many blockings to use beteen each set of 16' joist. 1, 2, or 3, or just do them at the 4' decking seems... Any advice? @coknowpro
Great video man! Remodeling my house and was wondering how I was going to take the slight bounce out of my 2x8 floor joists (old house). Keep the great content coming!
We recently moved into a 100+ year old house. Noticed that the floor in the living room and dining room bounce a little. In the cellar, I can see the old cross bracing rather than blocks as you installed in this video. I have started cutting 2x10 blocks and forcing them between the joists. This is stiffening the floor to some degree. Also, adding two columns along the line of the blocking. What I didn't notice until last week is that there is only one level of flooring. The tongue and groove we see from the top is the same wood I'm seeing from the bottom. We have planned to cover the floor with a floating vinyl system but I wonder if I should add underlay just to increase the thickness of the floor first. ( My guess is that some decades ago, the original floor was removed and replaced with the t & g we have now. There is not much wear on the boards so they are not a century old. ) Thanks for in interesting video.
That is a great great question back in the day they just threw down the tongue and groove and then hardwood right over it. Some people when they purchase these old homes will remove the hardwood floor and then just keep the original subfloor as their finished floor. You can throw your underlayment then your laminate flooring or hardwood right on top of that existing subfloor. If you decide to throw plywood on to help make it more rigid make sure u use minimum half-inch or 3/4 with subfloor glue tongue and groove is preferable. But keep in mind it may change the elevation of your flooring and when going into other rooms you may need transition thresholds at each door. Also may affect your finish trim as far as baseboards or casing around doors or door heights may need to be trimmed if you bring up the floor elevation. I hope that helps 😊 thanks for watching and the awesome comment good luck with your project you got this. 👍😎
Man its nice when all your boards a straight (not bowed or twisted). I would like to see how it goes w crappy lumber ... what tricks you use to overcome this.
You got that right? I love Straight Lumber. I have returned lumber deliveries that came that were just unusable. That being said, I try to pick the nicest lumber I can for my builds. If I have no choice, then typically I’ll frame a Joycin, then add my blocking and slam the Joyce up to that blocking and nail it to the blocking, sometimes can take the cupping out of the Joyce. By doing it this way you won’t have to worry about trying to get your blocking in there after the Joyce already ran we just run a Joyce slam you’re blocking run the next Joyce slam you’re blocking run the next Joyce slam the blocking seems to be the best way with crappy lumber. Hope that helps my friend. Thanks for watching.
Very good. I have seen blocking staggard (I suppose to avoid toe nails), but in your case your blocking is 'in a line', what is difference of the two methods?
The main reason you run them in a straight line is for your edge nailing. If your plans call out for your edge nailing to be 6 inches staggered you’ll need your blocking to run it straight edge probably double blocked so you can nail out edges of your plywood 6 inches staggered. If your plywood nailing schedule is calling out for 10 inch spacing on your edge nailing then you can stagger your nailing from block to block. Hope that helps 😎🔨👍🏻
Awesome as far as the walls go you can do the same thing just lay down a piece of wood at the plate and put it right in front of the wall then use your square in square over each bay on the 2 x 4 thats butted up against your bottom plate and make sure you remember to number them so you don’t get the blocks confused. Glad you’re digging the videos man right on and remember to subscribe and share with whoever you can thanks for the support and watching the video. 👍😎
That is a great question. You may need to add a girder that runs the span of your floor Joyce. At the very least, add additional blocking between your floor, Joyce to make it more rigid and take the bounce out. If you go underneath your subfloor, and someone is walking around above you, you can usually identify where the movement is. Sometimes you can sister up an existing Joyce that has some give to it, to lock it in then add blocking on each side will help as well. Some builders will not add enough blocking during framing. Maybe need a girder as well
I wish the builders on my home would have done that. They did zero blocking on 2x10s over 16” on center over a 15 foot span. My little 20lb dog makes the floor bounce.
Tyler513 this is the exact same issue I’m having! It’s so embarrassing when company comes over. Plan to tackle myself soon. This video was an absolute great help.
My question is what happens on a long span? Are you losing 3/32-1/8 inch from the blade kerf on each cut. So losing one inch per 8 joist blocks on an 1/8 wide blade.. By the end you might have some pretty bowed joists. My brother(framer)calls each span to someone at the saw and nails them in. It goes super fast for two people. As fast you can measure and cut, and you don't lose the blade kerf on each cut. Am I crazy?
The blocks should all be the same size. With exceptions here and there. Shouldn't need to be diffrent sizes. And should be done as you roll the joists.
@@briangc1972 you only lose a kerf once? how much is a 1/16th kerf on 16 joists?It's very cumulative, an architect did a whole video explaining and I have made the same mistake recently, luckily I hadn't nailed the blocking or just had one screw actually. It is nice to get the blocks tight but one must double check against the rim every few bays, or readjust the joist every 4 and 8 feet so your sheet goods fit.
@@jonwikan3986 The architect is correct, if the framer does not compensate for the kerf when he lays out the cut and makes the cut, then YES it is accumulative. An experienced framer know this and makes sure each cut is on the correct side of the line. I have framed many structures and it is not hard to not undercut the boards by the width of the kerf. Cutting the boards undersize by the kerf is a rookie or amateur mistake.
So I suppose you can call the solid joist blocking pressure blocks because they are sitting on a bearing wall but normally you would use pressure blocks in place of joist hangers ( did you put pl400 on the hanger seats ? ) I would never cut joist blocking like that and then some dropping into the crawl space, if your a production framing crew then you have a guy going steady on a chop saw using cutting lists. I'm assuming those joist are 16" o/c so the distance in between should be 14-1/2". You would get blocks cut 14-7/16" , you had to use a hammer to get your blocks in which means your probably throwing your centers off a little. Any blocking between the joist that is used to stiffen the floor is called cross bridging.
The joist are 16 on center and this is not a framing crew. This is a one-man show on that particular project. And yes, most of the blocking is at 14-1/2, but no need to even pull out a measuring tape if you’re doing it like this. I like them tight because there is some cupping going on on the Joist itself because they are 2 x 12 keeping that in mind I like to keep my pressure blocks tight. As well as there are always specials. Do to the double joist below partition walls, as well as hold downs, and other things going on in the build that give you some specials between the joist. But you should know that. Anyways, regarding the bridging, this is not bridging this is Joist blocking Aka Pressure, blocking bridging is with an X pattern like the picture below. Yes you are correct blocking does Bridge the joist together and it’s technically bridging, but it is called blocking bridging is a different technique. Check out picture below ⬇️ share.icloud.com/photos/0f5Ch67fofzbHhz3kD3IpPz0Q Thanks for the comment and for watching
I just started working in this line of work any way you can make a video or tips on how to keep balance while walking on the beams I have trouble keeping my balance and walking on the beams
That is a great suggestion. It does take a little bit of getting used to before you feel comfortable. But even then you always have to stay safe and make sure you’re paying attention. What I like to do is walk with my feet a little bit duck foot so they’re kicking out perpendicular to the floor Joyce while I’m walking on them. It’s definitely harder to explain on a message definitely might be better in a video. We may do that thanks again for the suggestion. And congratulations on getting into construction it’s very rewarding job. 😎👍💪
Blocking , gluing ,and screwing .It does make the price go up some what. But we'll worth the exspense. That is the difference between having a proof structure and a living space. Flood proof, tornado proof , fire proof, earth quake, etc. I built some furniture once and it fell off of the truck at 75mph. When it quit rolling ,it was still together, scared up ,but complete and functional.
Bro I'm confused...how are you accounting for the thickness of the blade when you cut those blocks? I would think that each block is a little short...pls help!
No worries what you do is you chase the line you don’t cut the line you cut on the side of the line going towards the end of your bored to your leftover cut if that makes sense. Let’s say you have a board 5-10 inch blocks there may be approximately 1 foot left over on the board mark out your lines. Then make sure your blade cuts on the left side of the line going towards your cut off piece at the end so all your pieces will be the exact measurements. let me know if that makes sense bro 😎
@@co-know-proconstructiontips you still will cut the width of one blade out of every block even if you chase the line. Only your first piece will be nominal size. But for blocking, at least a blade width shorter is necessary to roll the block in anyway.
Great video however what’s up with that extension cord connected to the saw? I helped out with a bunch of framing jobs last year for around four months and I find extension cords and hoses just a rats nest and a hazard. I can understand the compressor cord, because maybe the technology doesn’t move as fast for framer, but a saw and l two batteries you’re good all day. And it seems like when you’re framing, electrical outlets are hard to fine. So you have hundreds of feet of extension cords running all over the place You can’t roll your scaffold Or move your ladders, it’s just such a hassle.
You bring up some very very good points👍 Back when we film this video the cordless saws weren’t that great but there are some really good ones now definitely a game changer. Thanks for watching the video and thanks for that awesome comment love the recommendations definitely help with safety and efficiency. 👍😎
My floor joist are 24 on center. Are there any additional steps to putting the blocking when they are 24 on center, or can I put blocks the same way you just showed us? Thanks.
That is a great question and I’m sure you already figured it out. You can add some classic bridging or just do the same blocking that we showed in this video with additional bridging would be really great as well. 😎👍
Dead load is basically the weight of the structure (and it’s components) itself. Furniture is NOT dead load. Simply put, any additional weight after structure is complete is live load. Including furniture.
Why do you spent extra for tongue and groove plywood if you're blocking every 4 feet? Tongue and groove is meant to save you that trouble. Also, why do you block your rim, where you have joists resting on sills?
Hi Jerry Bee great points.We like to put a little moor into our builds then the average builders..In our experience when you add the rim blocking and the additional blocking at the plywood joints it makes the subfloor very solid. It also helps withe the floor joist to keep them from rolling over the years..That is one solid floor just the way we like it..Thanks for the comment.....
I’ve got a ton of bounce in my living room where this wasn’t done. Things just shake like crazy when the kids are jumping around. It’s unfinished below that room and I have access, can I do this after the fact and just put these blocks in from below? I’m not super handy but also not completely incompetent. I’ve seen some “x” looking products you can buy but are probably stupid expense versus just buying some 2x10 or 2x12, whatever is used for floor joists and just ripping them to size and screwing them in place.
Jason Fritz , yes, you can install blocking from below. A tip that wasn't in the video is, you can stagger the blocks, so you can end nail each one, which makes it much easier.
Ya mine was the same way. Thanks stupid Nintendo Wii with their dance dance party and wii fit bs... lol anyway my 1x3" cross braces were not even attached at the top so i ripped them out and replaced them with 2x4 versions and nailed the the tops and bottoms. But it didnt help much. I ended up sistering all the floor joists with Menards special ordered wood called MSR 2400 and mine are 2x10x16'. I also saw some "LVL" multi ply boards that are a full 2" thick. They seem a bit flimsy and bend a lot when laying flat on the fork truck. But virtically probably the best stuff as long as you have a board to glue and screw them to and then add blocking. I cant find 1/2 osb 16 feet long or i might have tried that, cut in the right direction. How did your project go? Did the blocking help? Does it span 16' and the builder use #2 spf like on my house? There were multiple cracks through the knots near the bottom edge which further increased the bounce since they effectivly were 2x6x16 in many places. Smh just sad...
I thought per code you have to have hangers(The back wall area around 9:10)? hmm just wondering no smart talk or anything. I'm wanting to get into framing... That Lathe on that house wall though!!!!!! BEAUTIFUL!! nEW SUB HERE
RE Verb Yes, by code joist must have bearing on plate (wood) or hangar. Hangar serves as bearing and prevents rotation both required by code. Joist on plate needs blocking to prevent rotation . Joist over 10 in. Deep require mid span blocking. Many use blocking mid span regardless of code thinking that it helps the floor and that ok. The trick is to at least know code requirements anything you do beyond no problem.
Hi Re Verb definitely per code the plans called out for standard hangers.I like to take it to the next level and i installed top flange hangers check out the vid on this channel. how to instal top flange hangers and teco clips. Thanks for the comment.
If you want your flooring to be very strong then yes install blocking below all joints T&G side and but edges. Do you have to no, the T&G is designed so you don’t need blocking below it but it dos help in the long run.
You typically don’t if you use the tongue and groove. But if you notice we like to make our subfloors a little stronger than most framers. The plans didn’t even call out for that girder we installed but we felt it needed to be there. I hate bouncing floors. We like pressure blocking mid span blocking any girders that we feel will make the subfloor much stronger we throw in. Thanks for watching
Yes basically just eyeball it and you can feel with your hand if the block is flush with the joist or not if so you can just hammer it down to make it flush. If there’s a girder below the block then you may need to take a planer and plan it down flush it cannot be above the joist. Thanks for watching 👍😎
We are actually not cutting them too big they are the exact size we need. If you notice once I mark my line I move it over the inch and a half plus the next bay. Thanks 😎🔨👍🏻
@@danlewis4886 oh, man, first thing I do is get a structural observation from my engineer cost a couple hundred bucks have them come out and assess the situation and give there recommendation. They may want you to double up some of the Joyce add some more blocking. Depending on the load in the span, you know they may want you to add additional support to any walls below that floor carrying the load but I wouldn’t get too carried away. I would just hit up my engineer and it might not be crazy but you never know. 👍😎
@@co-know-proconstructiontips Also wanting to ask if I could sister the joists with 2x4s. The floor is unlevel all over the place and the existing floor is osb
@@darnelljohnson1760 You can use 2x4 if it’s just for backing. And you can sister up with 2x4 if it’s just for leveling. But the 2x4s have to sister up against the 2 x 6 with proper nailing to make sure there’s no separation. If you are replacing Joyce then you should definitely replace with 2 x 6 if it’s just sistering for backing and leveling you’re OK. ✅ I would use tongue and groove and remember to use subfloor glue. 👍🏻😎
Great question👍🏻 there is a notch that was formed into the concrete footing that receives the girder. Don’t forget to check out some of our other videos and leave a thumbs up thanks for your support to our channel. 👍🏻😎💪🏼
I just did some 2x10 blocking in my basement area for the living room above, that is always bouncing when the kids play. Some of the blocks fit ok and some are a little tight/loose. I used long general purpose wood screws. Floor seems more stable, but when I walk into the living room in the morning I hear a few loud cracks/pops. Seems like it's only once or twice a day. It's not my subfloor since I screwed the plywood down before laying 3/4" hardwood a year ago. What's this popping noise and should I be concerned? This is only a 21" section I blocked. My span is 14' and the house is 32 years old. Home was built with the 1x3 diagonal bracing, but that stuff wasn't helping it seems.
@@co-know-proconstructiontips I notice glue on top of my floor joist between the plywood. When I installed my 3/4" solid oak flooring, I made sure to screw all of the plywood down since I noticed a lot of areas the nails missed the floor joist or were loose. I'm not hearing the popping as much anymore after a week since installing blocking. Maybe things settled? Maybe it's the weather changing? Just hope my floor doesn't just one day buckle up or something.
@@co-know-proconstructiontips My hardwood flooring is nailed down with the T shank 2.5" nails if I remember correctly. The popping noise sounds deeper if that makes sense. Maybe because I used general purpose 3" screws for the blocking. Wondering if I should replace the 20 blocks before I drywall the ceiling
@@wg1408 OK at least you have a glue between your plywood and your floor Joyce that’s good. Have you had anybody walk on it while you’re down there to try to isolate where the popping is coming from if not I’d say try that if you have not yet. It may just be the house settling since you made the floor basically more rigid by installing the new blocks. It’s hard to say without really putting eyes on it but I would definitely try to isolate the popping noise and have someone walk on it while you’re down there to try to figure out where it’s coming from. You definitely want the least amount of movement in that floor if you’re going to drywall it or the drywall seams will always be cracking on you. Every house is different and unique in it’s on way but definitely can be a weather issue or the house acclimating to the new blocks a number of things I’d say keep an eye on it for a little while before you commit to putting the drywall. If you can’t wait and when you install the drywall make sure you give proper expansion joints at least an 1/8 between your sheets of drywall. Also I would use the seismic mesh drywall tape. Good luck on figuring that out let me know how it turns out I really like to know what comes of this. 👍😎
The nail schedule on the blueprints called out for a smooth shank nails 16penny 3 1/4 1.131 I only use ring shank or spin shank nails for my subflooring substrate plywood or 1 x 6. Thanks for watching 👍🏻😎🔨
You can do both staggered or straight depending on you nailing schedule .I like to double block so i have 3 inches of wood to nail to and can nail it 4 inches stagerd on the edge and 8 in the field.4 and 8
I bought a 109 year old house and it has a mix of construction techniques used. The bridging in the joists are almost all gone and the center carrier beam is wonky. I'm planning on replacing these: here is the question... Where to start first? and is it easier to do the joists bridging from the floor above or under the joists?
It would definitely be easier to do everything from above but if you have finished floors that will limit your option to just doing it underneath. Are your floors opened up is the framing exposed?
Somethings you have to do from the bottom and somethings you may have to do from the top once you have the framing exposed. If you need to replace a support girder then definitely that’s best to do from below and once that’s done then you can splice in new Joyce on top of that girder.
If the floor joist are rotted then remove those first exposure girder make sure there’s no weight bearing on your girder if so then you’ll have to transfer that to a temporary support but you’ll have to design on the spot maybe with some two by fours or 4 x 4. Once that’s done then you can swap out the girder install a new one then throw all your new Joyce on top of that but like I say if there’s something you need to support make sure you properly support that first before you start removing Framing.
You’re confused just a little. All houses have subfloor framing unless they’re slab on grade. Some houses will have one by six on top of the Sub flooring anything that’s on top of the subfloor directly attached to the subfloor is called your subfloor substrate. Sometimes there’s one by six sometimes there’s old tongue grove and a more modern substrate is plywood. All of these substrates attache directly to the subfloor. So yes sometimes old houses have the original tongue and groove substrate attached to the original sub flooring. That was a very standard practice back in the day. It’s basically still the same practice just now plywood is 4 x 8 sheets but still has tongue and groove and it’s a substrate that goes on top of the subfloor. So you were almost correct. 👍🏻 Thanks for the comment
Your understanding of live and dead load is incorrect. Dead load is the weight of the structure. Live load is everything the structure supports that is not part of the structure. Furniture, cabinets, plumbing, flooring, people, animals are all live load.
Oh, so nice of you to point that out. You’re only the 20th person in the last five years that have commented the same exact thing on this video. Lol. And yes, you are correct while I was doing the audio on the video I explained that furniture and what have you is considered dead load additional to the structure. Which essence is true, but yes, you are correct dead load is referring to the structure. Now I have had many conversations with structural engineers about this very topic and yes, they will agree that in essence, furniture, and things that are deadweight and going to be applying additional load to the structure can be considered dead load but it’s not. But it’s still very important to take in to consideration, well building structure. . You’re so smart man give yourself a big pat on the back dude.
Because it’s not called bridging this is not bridging this is pressure blocking Google it. Floor joist blocking is an integral part of floor framing. It provides lateral strength for a more stable floor structure through weight distribution through all the floor Joyce. This is to prevent bounce and squeaks in your floors. Briging basically does the same thing, but is a very different method of framing. with bridging each support needs to different pieces of material typically 2 x 4 with a 45° cut on both end in X pattern between the floor Joyce that is a completely different method there for a different name than pressure blocking. So no one is trying to change anything. Both terms are correct, because they are two different methods of Framing.
@@co-know-proconstructiontips Its all bridging wether its solid or stick. The term comes from the "bridge effect" and does the same thing. I wont "Google" it because i was running a framing crew before Google even existed. If you are cutting 45 degree angles on bridging it tells us everything we need to know. Also before discussing live load and dead load, learn what they mean. Good day.
@@bus-fun-addict you won’t Google it because you know you’re wrong people have been miss, referencing blocking for many years and calling in bridging. And yes, it does bridge. But blocking is what it’s referred to in modern blueprints plans, you can pick up any basic framing guide book and it will clearly described to you what blocking and bridging are. And yes, depending on the span between the Joyce, you’re bridging, which will be 2-2x4s in a x pattern and will have a plum level cut on both edges standard bridging my dude I’ve been running a crew and company for 20 years. The only time we run into old bridging is on some really old structures typically commercial. But what I’m showing in this video is standard pressure blocking my dude if you don’t know that after all these years. The thing is people started using pressure blocking and they continue to call it bridging because yes, it is still bridging joist Joyce together, but technically, it’s a different form of framing and a different method like I’ve explained. But you and your age should know that if you have the experience you say you do and saying you won’t Google it I feel bad for you my friend.
I'm replacing the subfloor in my bathroom which I plan to tile. Ive blocks on all the edges where the sub floor will lay. However, there are some obstructions that prevent the blocking from being level with the original joists. Im worried that when I screw the new floor to the blocks, it'll make the floor uneven in some spots. What should I do?
I would have to see what you have going on to give a good answer.. It sounds like you may need to notch your plywood to keep it level.. like i say it is hard to tell without looking at it. Thanks for the comment.
Why must you mark every blocks? Doing what you're doing, all if not, most are of different lengths. If your floor joist is 12 inch or 16 inch on center, then all blocks literally the same length except the one end piece. Having said, cut all the same length except the last block. It's faster and more efficient.
Very true and well said it’s just there are always going to be specials when you have hold downs and areas with Plumbing or Electric stubups that you have to alter your layout for so you have special cuts.
Blocking should be done as your rolling joists. That gives you access to nail into them. This way is alot longer and gonna be a pain to nail into. You shouldn't need to scribe it either. Your joists should be straight and the blocks should all be the same size. This is a weird video
There is more then one way to frame a house. This is west coast Cali framing out here we have one crew roll out the joist then another crew come do all the peace work blocking and drywall backing. But you can roll your blocking as you are rolling out your joist some crews do it like that as well out here balloon framing. This method we show is really good if you have a lot of specials in the field not your typical 14-1/2 bay. There are many different ways to do framing if you think there is only one way than that is weird. Lol thanks for watching.
If you are building 16" oc all the blocks are 14 1/2 inches long except the one's where spacing varies. Carpentry 101 basic knowledge. Your way is the most inaccurate way to install solid bridging I can imagine.
In theory you are very correct. Unfortunately due to the HD hold downs that are in the outer stem wall footings placed there per code and engineer specs because of window placement and sheer value the layouts are offset they are not all 16 on center there are some specials in this build. For the most part they are 16 on center there’s just a few specials but regardless of that. Most of the time in the field people don’t even use measuring tapes when it comes to blocking it’s usually just all dry scribe like this. But if you have someone cutting all your blocks for you then definitely you can make packages all at 14 1/2 and you’ll be good to go for the most part. But regardless of that your comment seem to have a little bit of a negative context to it. We are not sure why when these videos are just here to help people and give them our perspective on how we do things. There are many other ways to do things we appreciate your feedback.
Lol coulda not sure what that means lol regarding the kitchen sink. Forget that I have the whole house in my bags. Lol But yes, you are definitely right I could have shown the girder better. Thanks for watching
thank goodness i own my own company and have 8 employees. we are licensed and have General lib and workers comp. Don’t need to make it on your crew nor would i want to. Most likely you would not make it on to one of my job sites with your staggered blocking.
