Dude! You are a legend! I tried to understand pull up resistors for quite some time, but you did that in less than a minute! Thanks very much for such great lessons
Yup.. and the worst part is that before you understand them you wonder about their "odd" name. And when you understand them you go "oh, so the name was self explanatory!" :P
Glad I now know how to correctly pull the signal into the computer, Did show how to display on a IC7, Didn't show how to display fuel level on a factory cluster using a DPO (violet with trace) like how the 1500 can send tacho or speedo,
my fuel level sender outputs a resistance reading between 112 ohms - 0 ohms. What would be the ideal pull-up resistor value for wiring direct to an elite series ECU?
Useful information that doesn't necessarily apply entirely to a Haltech! That's one reason I'm subbed here, even though I've not got any Haltech products! What it did highlight, though, is that the value is very "jumpy" when measuring and displaying directly. Does any of the Haltech products offer any "damping" of the signal to slow down the transitions between displayed fuel level - and/or is there any basic electrical circuitry that could be made with common components to smooth out the value?
While configuring AVI 4 on the IC7 the pull up resistor option says 1000ohm. In the video you say it's 240ohm, is this an error in the video or in the software?
What do i do if my input pin on my device has a 10k pullup/pulldown built in and the range of voltage change is tiny? I can't disable it, i tried adding a 10k pulldown on the ground to negate the 10k pullup but that did nothing.
great video. Question: instead of displaying on a digital dash. Can you use a PWM or other output on the ECU to drive the OEM fuel gauge? Note: I'm keen to be able to get the ECU to output a signal to my OEM temp gauge so I can reduce wiring clutter in the engine bay. But the process would be the same as outputting to the fuel gauge ;). Just don't know if it can be done. Regards Jordan
If running to ic-7 do you need to run a ground wire from the fuel sender aswell or can we just run the single fuel sender wire from the back of the oem dash?
So I have a 2000 Impreza with a Elite 1500 and a IC7. If i understand this video. I don't need a fuel level signal conditioner. The car has 2 senders. One for each side of the tank.
My fuel level shows only halfway when it has a full fuel tank. And when the fuel tank is half-full, the fuel level will start to show the accurate level of the fuel tank until it's empty. What happened with my fuel level system? Why it could only show halfway but not full?
can that resistor add-on be used on factory clusters that use aftermarket senders? i have an OEM cluster and a VDO sender. the fuel gauge reads the movement the fuel according to the G loads
hi guys, just about to wire up my fuel level gauge, do I use the fuel level signal conditioner HT-038002 for this? how would I wire this up to the ic7?
How do OE fuel senders work when they dont recognise fuel added to a tank (from a sub tank for example) untill the key is cycled, or in some cases still dont recognise fuel has been added untill you pour 5 or so litres through the filler neck?
Hey there, the best thing to do is contact our Tech Support either via phone or on support@haltech.com. One of our tech guys will be able to walk you through the setup.
What's actually trash is the fact that I paid around $1300 for the IC-7 067012 OBD2 Version. The Fuel Level for my 06+ LS 5.3 Computer has the Fuel Level as a PID in generic data you can see in Global data. My $90 Lufi Xs gauge I got from amazon can read that PID and show Fuel Level with no problems as a Percentage. Your IC-7 CANT! It shows as either Liters/US gallons/CC and doesn't work... Why is it that there is over a $1200 difference and you can't pick global pid data a cheap Chinese OBD2 HUD product can. You guys take pride in your products yet I can't see my fuel level $1300 later. Why should I have to run wires all the way to my sending unit when the level is right in the data already? This seems counter intuitive you sell a product that ignores a very important piece of information to make it work. FIX IT and Update the OBD2 or I'll send it back.