Our last iC-7 wiring video received a ton of requests for a more in-depth video on the fuel level calibration. So we've called back our wiring expert and our tuning guru for, what we believe, will be the definitive guide to calibrating your fuel level with an iC-7 dash.
never seen a saddle tank with 2 fuel senders. usually they just pump fuel from 1 side to the other to keep the side with the main pump (the pump that feeds the engine) and sender fed and accurate.
Couple of extra points to note: 1. Saddle tanks won't empty with the feed from the fuel pump if you have a return system. Most use a venturi on the return to suck fuel from the other side of the tank and require fuel flow in the return line to create that effect. The other side may need to be syphoned manually. Dead head systems you should be ok with since the return and ventri is built into the feed. 2. The Haltech IC7 has been coming in different pullup resistor values. Haltech's videos show a 240ohm pull up, however I have had two IC7 dashs and one just purchased a month ago and they both have 1000ohm pullup on AVI4. I'd recommend putting in your own 240-270ohm resistor pullup externally to the IC7 and turning off the 1000ohm internal one. This will give a boarder range of voltage reading. 1000ohm is way too high and makes the gauge too sensitive.
Resistors. the IC-7 has a built in resistors into the one of the Analogue Volt input. If you don't have IC-7 e.g connecting the sender directly to the ecu, you'd need to assemble a breadboard consisting of resistors etc, or buy directly from haltech, their fuel level signal conditioner. It filters the resistive signal (ohm/resistance) and converts them to 0-5 volts
@@alirezamahendra9507 thanks for the reply Ali. I did use a resistor, so I have a much larger range for the voltage depending on level. But the level can shift drastically with stopping and cornering. And they have a smoothing filter to combat this. Just thought I would suggest they they cover it in the video. Thanks again for trying to help!
I noticed that the dash has had an image of the car's number plate loaded into the dash display. Is that going to be something supported by Haltech in a future software update?
Hey guys, I cant seem to work out how to get the fuel volt reading on the dash.. I have the fuel level connected to ECU, would this be the cause? I have no AVI's connected to the dash directly.
Sweet thanks that's what I meant lol the 4 pin plug I'm in process of setting up fuel level took me some time so you set the dash to raw voltage and capture pics then convert into dash table Was confused as how you guys have voltage display I only have Liters display
Thanks for noticing and asking - It means a lot. I was still recovering from poisonous jellyfish sting a week or 2 before - still was not feeling well. #straya
I think it's important to note most factory senders are NOT linear in terms of position vs. resistance value. In your case, I'd consider doing a "1/2" tank fill as well, to get an additional data point to improve mid-tank accuracy.
The shape of the tank also makes a big difference. If the sides of your tank aren't perfectly vertical, then you're not going to get a linear response. This is why some cars seem to take ages to drain from 100% down to 30% (eg), and then the last 30% seems to disappear quickly.
An important thing I’ve noticed since owning mine. When taking the raw data. If possible have the engine running. The difference in reading due to the voltage with the engine off. And the alternator charging. Makes quite a big difference to the fuel level reading, ideally in the future the ic7 needs a voltage correction table added for this. But until then it’s worth re doing the calibrations with the engine running if you couldn’t at the time of initial install.
What's the advantage of using a Haltech Fuel Level Sender Signal Conditioners? I ordered one of these (it brought my order up to the point where I got free shipping). I'm wondering if it would be an advantage to use it or not. Fuel Level Sender Signal Conditioner Part Number: HT-038002
i prefer monitoring voltage every 5 liters of fuel because all fuel tanks are not a square cube like your linear chart suggest, sometimes they have weird shapes and the first 5 liters may not change the reading voltage as let say the last 5 liters due the fuel tank shape, also doing this procedure require at least a battery charger that can hold or mimic engine running voltage. i started empty ( not 5 liters safe factor), i prefer set an L.E.D alarm at 15 liters but you guys probably know all that 🙂
If i'll be doing this on cars original level sender and wires, for example on an r32 skyline, would i need to connect 1 or 2 wires from connectors behind the gauge cluster into the ic7?
