You give us home tinkers the confidence to say "I'll have a crack at doing that myself " your becoming the Ed China of Falcons. Brilliant video always a professional production.
As a licensed mechanic, you are more switched on than a lot of other mechs I’ve seen, so good job mate! I used to have an AUII Fairlane and I have very fond memories of how that drove, it was exquisite, and a far cry from some of the modern luxury cars we have today.
I have recently swapped the fluid out for the recommended Mobilfluid 424 and the pump definitely runs more quietly. Initially I had no idea where to buy it, but it turns out your local 7 Eleven petrol station should have some! I bought 2x 1L bottles for just over $30.
Was gonna say that fluid is the one I've heard about on another youtubers vid, he said the power steering fluid you get from supercheap or other shops wears out the seals in the pump and contributes to the whining.
hahaha. I replaced a few pwr steering pumps on the old EA I had - I was actually gobsmacked many years ago, to see on a friends old Rolls-Royce (was either his shadow or Phantom) it had the very SAME Ford unit! Not sure if factory or as a repair, but worked. Touch wood no such problems on my BA
Mobile 424 is the recommended fluid , if you have red fluid ( common mistake in falcons ) it is transmission fluid ( dexron 2 or 3 ) & is definitely wrong , the pump will be noisier & neither it , nor the pressure switch will last as long , where to find ? , believe it or not , any 7 eleven ! & if you flush by raising the front , removing the return line at the pump & plugging the inlet , attaching a barbed adaptor to a clear length of hose up over the front into a catch tray & then turn the wheel slowly lock to lock , whilst your helper slowly pours new fluid into the pump ( no air gets in this way ) WITHOUT the engine running , you will need about 3 x 1 litre bottles to properly flush the old fluid out , the clear hose allows for easy viewing to check progress .
When replacing the pulleys on one of my BF's, i found it easier to just pull the entire radiator to give me enough working room. A lot more available space in the AUs, though.
Great content yet again sir. Just a tip, as the pulleys are high movement/rotational parts its essential a drop of loctite is applied to each pulley bolt on reassembly. If not the bolts will work themsrlves loose over time.
11:28 FYI Shaun, you already way over-torqued the bolt before using the torque wrench (not good in soft aluminium) - notice how the bolt did not move once you used the torque wrench. Just do the bolts up with your finger, then use the torque wrench. Also try to use the torque wrench slower/more gentle as they are not as accurate with sudden jagged movements
Cheers mate, yup I did go a bit over on that bolt. I don't believe I did it up very tightly as I did plan to torque it down, so hopefully it wasn't too far over. In the end I just left it alone and figured it'd be all good.
Awsome video bribgs back memories one first things i did was this job on my au Fairlane which got same motor but mine was second hand ps pump $20 but got lucky least me 4 years do have shoft spot for sohc4L
NO WAY haha i was just diagnosing a power steering pump leak in my 1999 LEXUS ES300 this morning and now i go on RU-vid and see you replacing your pump on the au hahaha perfect timing
It's always nice to see a mighty AU video. I would be curious to know how hard an AU Fairmont/Falcon with straight 6 would be to convert to a manual transmission.
I see you like to lay tools on top of your battery. I used to do that as well. Had to learn the hard way, not to. A work acquaintance liked to look at running engines while wearing a tie, he's no longer with us. Thanks for the video.
Fortunately the PS pump is an easy job. My current BA dosent whine of leak, but hooray now my steering rack is leaking at both ends. That's going to be fun, and expensive.
Every single AU, BA & BF I drove as company cars always had the whine. I was never really happy with the steering of any of them. Sean, you'll have to ask Pepsi for an endorsement, especially when you're doing KFC runs!
"but I don't have a vice"... oft that hits home. Always another tool you/we/everyone don't have and can't quite justify yet isn't there? If you have a sturdy bench a couple of large g-clamps and some scrap wood will do ya. Nice to see the AU getting some love!
I know it says so on the bottle, as does Valvoline with their Formula F P/S fluid… but the one and only power steering fluid that any Ford Falcon should use is Mobilfluid 424. It was the factory fill fluid, and often pumps (and racks) will have failed because the fluid has been switched out for something else.
You should leave the belt off and prime the power steering pump by hand or I used to use a 3/8 air powered ratchet on the end of a pump shaft. The air ratchet was a bit faster than manually spinning the pump by hand and a lot slower than the engine spinning it so it doesn't aerate the oil. Then put the belt on and run the engine slowly turning the steering left to right until it stops shuddering or whining. To make it easier you can jack the front wheels off the ground to take the load off (optional).
@@MotoringBoxTV some power steering pumps can make a whining noise if you use the wrong oil. Older cars use TQ95 or Dextron 3 transmission oil, and some newer cars use Agri Trans Plus (Tractor transmission hydraulic oil) eg. BA and BF falcons use that. European cars can have Mineral oil, eg. Older Ford focus.
I found out the hard way, that the bolts on the power steering pump can cause damage if not put in the right spots. I cracked the casing by putting the longer bolt into a hole for the shorter one, I thought it shouldn't make much difference. WRONG. So when I got another pump, I went and bought 3 bolts, the same length as the shorter one and havn't had a problem since. I also had a stalling problem when braking, in the last couple of days so I pulled things apart and cleaned them, took off the idle solenoid (ISC) and cleaned and checked it, but realised I just had to turn a certain screw, less than a quarter of a turn, had to make it idle at about 500rpm with the idle solenoid disconnected. Now it runs beautifully after doing the ecu reset which is pretty easy and should be done fairly often.
Yes I didn't realise until I felt one of the longer bolts bottom out before it was fully done up! A bit of a crappy design if using the same short bolts everywhere works!
@@MotoringBoxTV I felt what I now know it is bottoming out, but in my haste, I saw that it needed to go further so I kept turning. I heard the crack, couldn't see damage so kept going and after a while I noticed the fluid leaking onto the alternator (worst design). I got another pump and alternator on the same day because many people said the alternator would fail. Someone suggested using brake or carby cleaner on the alternator to flush it and let it dry, but never use WD40 on it. Alternator still runs fine after using carby cleaner, but I keep the spare in the car because I often drive out bush and don't really know anyone around here to come and help if I needed it.
I just had mine down for the ute but I think it might be dying again I can hear the whine at startup and idle eh so annoying 🤷🏽♀️terrific video as always
I’ve done a power steering pump in my EF because the other one was leaking but I might have to replace the pump again because it’s leaking again and I don’t have money for a new one
Any advice on switching to E10 in an AU? Arising from Hubnut' latest vid near running out of fuel on a trip in the current UK fuel transport upheaval and finding only E10 available. Some say old fuel lines do not like it. Although this was a comment from a usually unreliable but widespread Australian commenter.
From what I can see they run very well on it. I think a lot of the stuff being said about E10 is heresy - and the petrol companies don't care because they benefit more if people buy the more expensive fuels.
u say the belts are cheap... but i wouldnt call $90 for a dayco belt cheap (supercheap price) also noticed your radiator water bottle doesnt have the level sensor fitted... doesnt it bother you the light on the dash being on all the time?
You should use auto trans fluid for power steering it’s slightly thicker,I find it works way better then normal power steering fluid,as it can be watery.
Wrong ! Mobil 424 is the recommended fluid , transmission fluid will make the pump noisier & both it & the pressure switch will not last as long , au owner 16 years 460000 klm , did 2 pumps before I realised the idiot mechanics were using atf , too lazy to go down to any 7 eleven where 424 is available .
So far so good! Apparently Mobilfluid 424 is a much better ps fluid to run so I will be swapping out to that at some stage soon. Not many places stock it, but 7 Eleven petrol stations do!
@@MotoringBoxTV So mines in now and working well., I ended using Valvoline F fluid, runs quiet enough. Thanks so much for the video mate. Made the job so much easier!
Don’t forget to flush the system & if you want extra protection & working life buy a new genuine return hose from bayford for $20 bucks incl post on eBay & splice in an inline filter such as a magnefine by cutting a piece of the straight section out equal to the length of the filter & use a couple jubilee clips or better still 15mm mini nut & bolt fuel injection style clamps. Flush the system & replace the filter every couple of years & the pump will outlast the car , if that’s possible , after all , it is an au !
Congratulations mate you just killed your alternator by not replacing the high pressure hard line cause once you crack it it will start leaking straight onto your alternator then fry your alternator number one thing I sell is alternators second hand
So far so good, no leaks and no problems. I am aware of the issue though. The pumps almost need a little tray welded onto the bottom of them to keep the oil off the alternator.
Had to replace both on my au and ba. The pipes do leak, dropping oil onto the alternator, screwing that as well. Best to replace the pipes as well. P.s not a fan of china.
Get a fabricator to make up a splash guard that bolts in above the alternator it’s cheap long term insurance if you plan to keep the car , cost me $120 in stainless years ago after having 1 pump failure & then a slow seep from the pressure line connector , haven’t done an alternator since.
Current pump 250000 klm , use proper fluid , flush every couple of years & replace the pressure switch whenever you replace pump & if you want more protection put an inline filter such as a magnefine in the return . 😉
He had to choose between the VT & the AU , it was in one of his vid’s , I thought he would pick the V8 commie , but in the end , he obviously made the right choice ✌️
It's about time someone sponsored you with some power tools and a spammer set with a 16mm. You'll be amazed at how you could live life before owning an electric ratchet and a rattle gun.
@@MotoringBoxTV once you go battery, you never go back. I picked up the M12 Milwaukie 1/2 ratchet and love it for those hard to reach tight spots. Best tip, buy a few batteries and chargers for a budget power tool. The Ozito brand isn't that bad for a home workshop odd job tool
@@MotoringBoxTV good to see you pulled the trigger, just don't get sucked into their whole ecosystem, a lot of the battery operated tools they come out with are just unnecessary. I have found I use my drill, impact gun and ratchet the most and the 4ah and 5ah batteries seem to last weeks with daily use, I just top them up on weekends and they're good to go.
Have you changed the fluid ? & at the same time check or change the breather hose ( cost about $15 genuine ford eBay incl. post ) in case it’s blocked, perished etc , if it still whines & you don’t live in Tasmania or you live where it hardly ever gets freezing cold there is a diff repairer in Queensland that only uses penrite STRAIGHT 140 weight oil in everything from a Morris minor to a Mack truck for over 20 years . Couldn’t hurt to try if it’s already buggered.
*Kelly H...All Falcons from EB to AU with the BTR 4 Speed auto all have diff whine from factory..you will notice it the most in 1st gear when you take off and accelerate*
Diff whine in an au will usually be at its worst when the box has just dropped into top , around 60 to 70 kmph , they were never the quietest unit & much more noticeable in a wagon where the whole open to the back cargo area amplifies noise particularly diff whine . If you can hear it over the radio , it might be time to do something about it or alternatively turn the radio up !
Most proper steering places say much of their business is replacing cheap junk Chinese steering racks & pumps , better off with properly reconditioned ford pumps or racks from a reputable steering specialist that come with a longer warranty anyway , usually 2 years.
