Another great engineering feat by GM. They knew it would leak there someday. Got quoted $1300 from local shop to replace line, vac and recharge. Fixed for $42 from Amazon plus $40 in new refrigerant
Excellent video and commentary. You deserve more than 188 likes. I really appreciate your detailed explanation and willingness to show it all in such detail. The best observation about your video is the respect you show to followers that some of us are on a budget and rather fix something then throw it away attitude that is so prevalent. You are really green by reusing from junk yard and the respect you showed that you weren't just going to pull apart and ruin parts on junk yard vehicle as you recognized others may want some of the parts you were not using. I do the same if possible. I have a 2005 GMC Yukon XL Denali which also lost its A/C and after filling A/C I heard a leak from rear tire the same as you. I will start to pull apart the cover and hope I can see the leak. I am hoping to repair if it's just a pin hole by cutting and hopefully either soldering or clamping something similar. Again, great video and thank you. Michael
Just got my Tahoe back running after a whole year and as soon as I started up coolant spilled out from the rear , I was so confused and I couldn’t find anything on RU-vid about it other then your video so your really a life saver, I was starting to overthink it 😅💯
Great video. Have the same issue as this on my suburban. I elected to put a rear ac delete plug kit on. 215K miles something is bound to go wrong in the rear, and I don't sit in the rear anyway. I had a larger leak than this and I couldn't use freon to check. I put compressor air in and ran it up to 60 psi or so and the leak could be heard like a firehose in the rear. Only took a few minutes. Again, great video
Great video man, I have the exact same issue that I am going to be tackling in the near future and this helped so much! Keep up the great work, it is truly appreciated.
Good video! Been to that lkq a bunch of times. It’s the best 1 but I’m too far north. Great job on video. I have a Tahoe and suburban leaking from rear lines. I will be removing and repairing my lines tho. There’s a place over by me that can reweld aluminum.
I was working on 2005 yukon xl did a headgasket they said the truck been sitting up for a year or two started to fill the ovaflo tank up I seen water dripping by the passenger side back tire and notice it was coming from one of them four lines
I took a variety of tools just in case I ran into any situation, 7-16mm sockets, standard size and deep well, vice grips, channel locks, wrenches 10-18mm, trim removal tools, long and short flat head and philip screwdrivers, PB blaster, crowbar and my sawzall with multiple metal cutting blades. I wanted to make sure I didn't have to make multiple trips.
Really good video, I've attempted to separate the lines a few times from the expansion valve. It looks like someone might have used some stop leak fluid on it and it is welded on. What are you spraying on them to help separate it?
Do you think replacing and cleaning the orifice tubes made the air colder? That’s the only logical difference I can think of before recharging. I also have a 17 Cherokee Laredo that is fully charged but I know the air can be colder, and I’ve been thinking maybe changing the expansion valve and orifice tube.
Eric, cleaning or replacing the orifice tubes will allow refrigerant to flow as needed in which will allow for a much cooler system during very hot days. Check this article out below... The orifice tube allows for a higher flow of R-134 refrigerant during times when more cooling is needed, and a smaller flow of refrigerant when less cooling is needed. This balance of cooling flow is critical for the A/C to operate effectively. Faulty orifice tubes can also result in too little refrigerant flow through the evaporator. If this is the case, the flow of refrigerant will not be enough to absorb the heat that is coming from the condenser. When this occurs, the A/C simply will not be performing well enough to allow the system to cool.
Hey! Terence nice job! You rocked it hard, and worked it at Pic A Part, and got it working, I mean so cool. I am working on my 2003 Escalade, the Rear HVAC, Front AC is working fine. My issue is rear evaporator is not cold. Blend doors are in the correct position for Rear AC unit. My guess is an expansion valve issue on the Rear HVAC, not cold enough. BUT! you, show two orifice tubes! One looks to be on the low side line where it enters the rear hvac evaporator, and the other seems to be on the front of the Surburban. I am thinking now, maybe a clogged orifice tube on low side line where it enters the Rear Evap from below? Can you explain where the orifice tubes are located both front and rear?
They are located inside the line. As soon as you remove the line (front or back low side) you can just pull the orifice tube from the line and clean it. No need to replace it. That may be your problem. Let me know how it goes. Thanks for watching!
@@TerenceDIY Yeah, Terence, correct me if wrong, but I believe your Surburban has 3 orifice tubes ? Rear HVAC evap connection to front line connection, you have 1 tube on the rear, and then another but longer orifice tube on the front connection, and then a 3rd orifice tube that would be in the upper line between your low side port on the accumulator and the high side port. I wonder if the orifice tube at the rear hvac you show is actually instead used as a filter screen only? I have not drained the system yet to open my lines, but I can't seem to find any drawings showing the location of any of the orifice tubes! I bet, I find on my 2003 that I have two of the long orifice tubes, the upper feeds from the "T" to the accumulator, and the 2nd on the lower line from the "T to to the rear hvac. My guess is the rear orifice tube is just a filter screen only for debris from the rear evap and was installed on later models only. My 2003 series was reported to have the rear Expansion valve getting clogged up and it was a pain to tear apart the rear hvac housing to get at the filter screen located inside the rear hvac housing just prior or after the expansion valve.. (you have to take apart everything to get at it). Simpler to drop a line and clean a screen below the truck eh? I'll update once I get my stuff apart. You video really is the best! THx
Would you be willing to sale the amount of can you used for your video so i can do mines. I cant find the 1st can you uses at all. So i can do mines. Thanks in advance
Hi Ray, I would love to help you when I clear up the time. I'm setting up a concrete pad and I'm about to pour 40+ bags of cement by myself so I have my hands full. The video will also be on my channel as well as other jobs I've done this week. I will stay in touch.
