1:11 CYLINDERS. Nickel Plated Nikasil. Cast Iron Sleeve. Boring. Pistons. 2 & 4 Stroke MX Dirt Bikes 

Awesome video. So many people try to do a channel like yours but are total screw ups. I would describe piston slap as if your holding a deck of cards in one hand and use your other thumb to flick thru the top of the cards. Your spot on with nikasil cylinders, when i was 13 I desert raced a 77 yz250 and after you bored the cylinder it had to be rejetted every time. Then in 79 Honda came out with the chrome bore, never needed major jetting changes if any, it would last 5 or 6 pistons before changing unless you flat blew it up and gouged the bore. Then in 81 went back to a standard bore for the time KTM495. Lots of fun jetting it. Keep up the vids, you are one of the few people that truly knows how to show people especially the younger generation the proper ways to repair and diagnose bikes. Be safe and always enjoy the moment. 🙂👍👍

Super good piston video. I learned a ton! I did my first rebuild on a 94 KDX 200 and sent my cylinder to power seal. They did an amazing job and it was a night and day difference.

What I find is that nikaseals cylinder glaze up, rather than the coating being worn off. You can use a aluminum oxide flex hone to deglaze them. Aluminum oxide is softer than that plating and can’t actually “hone” off the nikaseal but rather take off the glaze. The cylinder will look brand new after!

I’ve had a really good experience sending out my cylinders to powerseal

Great review as always. I have an original cast iron 500 2 stroke still on its first piston sixe for now. Do you ever recommend putting nikosyl coating on a cast iron cylinder?

Thoughts on a forged piston needing to be warmed up before you start riding full tilt? As always, such good info. Kelly

Bought a new OEM cylinder for my '05 YZ125 1.5 years ago (50 hours). Cylinder is a B size. Ran a ProX A piston (14.8 hrs), then OEM B piston (14.2 hrs), then OEM C piston (19.5 hrs), and the cylinder looked good inside every time except now, where after removing that last piston, there's what I believe to be a worn section of the Nikasil near the exhaust port. Piston looks worn right down the center where the exhaust bridge lines up. I installed a ProX C piston and will run it since I'm trying to at least get a little more life out of that cylinder since 50 hours doesn't seem old to me. Kinda thought I was doing the right thing by being super on top of my top end rebuilds w/o neglecting them, and was expecting to get maybe like 100-200 hrs out of a cylinder this way. Never honed it. Only ran Maxima 927 at 30:1, but I'm gonna try going up to like 24:1 from here on. I went ahead and ordered another OEM cylinder as well since at $395, it's barely cheaper than the $400 for Millennium to replate it.

Hey! Curious about your thoughts on honing a nikasil plated cylinder. Heard a lot about it from both sides. Is it actually useful or not?

I have a rm 125 1993and I have a la sleeve are they really that bad to use. The cylinder is to far gone to nicasil what do you think I should do. The port timing is giving me a red flagg

Question I did a top end on my 2023 yz125 yesterday 21 hrs on it it had 1 small scratch very slight couldn't feel it with your finger but just a tad with your nail I went ahead and reused it should I buy new or run with it runs good at the moment thanks

My exhaust bridge is cracked on my yz125 i would like to fix it but have no aluminum welder atm.

Well could a guy take his cast iron slightly worn out jug and have it nickle plated?

How many hours on your worn yz250 cylinder and how many hours on your piston before you change.

Prices for nikasil are getting crazy, A mew bore job runs you half that price

Apakah ada untuk kx 85, sorry saya dari Indonesia

the differences between Nickel Plate and an iron sleeve: Nickel Plate (Nikasil): Composition: Nikasil is a nickel-silicon carbide coating applied to the inner surface of aluminum cylinders. Purpose: It enhances durability, wear resistance, and heat transfer. Advantages: Wear Resistance: Nikasil plating wears better than cast iron. Heat Transfer: Aluminum, with Nikasil plating, transfers heat more efficiently than iron. Ring Seal: Improved ring seal over time due to the harder coating. Reusability: Nikasil-coated cylinders can be rebored and reused. Considerations: Adhesion: Nikasil doesn’t always adhere well to cast iron sleeves, leading to bubbling or flaking. Application: Typically used on aluminum cylinder bores without a sleeve12. Jetting: Contrary to a myth, jetting isn’t affected by liner material. Iron Sleeve: Composition: Cast iron sleeves are tough and resilient. Advantages: Durability: Cast iron can withstand significant abuse. Cost-Effective: Economical and widely used. Considerations: Heat Transfer: Iron is not as efficient at transferring heat as aluminum. Ring Seal: May not provide the same long-term ring seal as Nikasil. Jetting: Proper jetting is achievable with iron sleeves. In summary, while Nikasil-coated cylinders offer better heat transfer and wear characteristics, cast iron sleeves remain robust and cost-effective. The choice depends on specific engine requirements and preferences. ive been doing 2 strokes since 1992 and prefer a iron sleeve with wiseco piston and total seal rings. i only use motul 800 2t with sunoco 260 gtx 98 fuel.thats my opinion and like a ass we all have one . lol