1/28 RC Roundup - 01 | Speed Test 

Beaver's Hobby i really would love to see that Q1 in action witht that brushless motor

@@mike4613 Here you go! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7tq9JoxmZU8.html

Beaver's Hobby thank you very much love your videos. I recently orderd the trq1 because ive seen it in your videos. but 7500 is way to fast😅. i orderd the 5500kv and the EZrun 18a but i think it will be still to fast😅

@@BeaversHobby Where is wltoys a 242???

@@seangaming5449 It's too big to fit on the dyno.

That's so cringy

@@IsmailsGuitarWorld lol yeah dude

Full metal upgrades?

It actually has some weight in the rollers so I'd say it's pretty accurate. It's much more accurate than my previous method with wheels in the air counting the rotation for sure. And yes, I'll have to find sometime to test my 9500KV motor.

Firelap is so slow I can go full throttle everywhere. Hahaha. TRQ1 just won't go straight with this much power. I'll have to find a way to stabilize the steering and give it a bit toe out.

All the pan cars, Mini-Z RWD, Mini-Q Q2 and GL Racing GLR produce less noise and vibration as the driveshaft is connected directly to the motor. Especially when they are equipped with ball differential so there's no diff gear noise. Also, try to balance the wheel. It'll help with the vibration too.

@@BeaversHobby Thank you for your fast and informative reply! That actually makes sense, becouse of the plastic covers on them. I will try balancing the wheels. I drive on a wooden floor and i try ways to reduce the noise.

It'll be the same. It's the same motor anyway. Any variations would be some slight different of the motor itself. Some do claim it has better torque though but I doubt that because I also have it and it's the same.

Yes, both WLtoys and Mini-Q. The electronics is open like a normal RC so you can use pretty much anything, any transmitter, any servo that fits.

I was surprised how fast new generation Mini-Z is. I'll run the test again once I convert it to AWD to see if the drivetrain gives it any drag.

@@BeaversHobby Would be curious to see how the brushless mini Zs run. A stock MA-030EVO or MR03VE would be interesting. If I had the speed checker I'd like to test differences between the X Speed motor and stock when geared for max speed too.

@@Auranapse I'm quite curious too however it's unlikely that I'll buy an EVO or VE. But X-Speed vs standard is really interesting. I'll have to revisit this again if the board survives until then.

@@BeaversHobby I see, if you do I'll look forward to it! Is there a reason for avoiding the EVO or VE Mini Zs? :O On the X-Speed, the only video someone made has shown it to have the same top speed, but it was on the default gear ratio. I'm guessing the X-Speed may have more torque to be able to hit higher speeds when geared up. But I do not have the equipment to test it atm. I also plan to put a 31T motor on my MA-020 after some fet upgrades, maybe I'll try taping my phone to get the GPS speed to test.

@@Auranapse For VE, I don't have ASF/MHS transmitter. As for the EVO, it's too expensive for me to wrap my head around it and justify the price.

That depends on how much experience you have building cars. If you haven't got any experience or tools and just want it drift well out of the box then take a look at Mini-Z AWD. Most of them will come with drift tyres, you don't need to do anything. It'll just work. If you want a proper RWD drift car then it depends on your building skill, for a beginner I recommend GL Racing/HRC GLD or Atomic DRZ V2. Both are very good and relatively easy to build. If you have a lot of experience building and tuning then the best car you can get is DriftArt V2.5.

You'll need to disassemble the CVD to use only the part that holds the wheel. Increase steering angle then add gyro. Here's the playlist of RWD conversion tutorial. ru-vid.com/group/PLS79G3YjA2fDY_ESGp0wk6Wom8Zrt0u6E

@@BeaversHobby aight thanks Bro ill check that out

I have Facebook. Feel free to post it there. facebook.com/beavershobby

We simply can't denied the power of the FK130 motor combining with 2S lipo. Taken gear ratio in to account, it's the same speed as Mini-Q Q7.

Yeah, i'm really impressed with the stuff Wltoys puts out. They may lack in durability a little, but they have some crazy performance for the price, on a brushed motor no less.

Aren't they all made in China?

Joseph S don’t they make full metal upgrades for the k989?

Beaver's Hobby I really want to get two k989 with full metal upgrades for my son and myself as starter cars

Depends on your budget, I'd recommend WLtoys for a starter because it comes with everything albeit the plastic isn't of good quality and the gears wear out very quickly. For a returnee with some experience I suggest Mini-Q Q7 or Atomic AMZ. Q7 Brushless is ARR so you can choose a transmitter of your choice, RTR is also available. AMZ is a kit so you can build it however you like. AMZ a bit better chassis than Q7 but it needs some tools to build and also battery and charger.

Beaver's Hobby thanks for the quick reply! I’m willing to spend about 120$ right now to get started on something. So I’m going to be checking out both of your videos on each model.

Beaver's Hobby I’ve honestly been doing research for hours all night and morning because I can’t decide which to chose!

​@@KoraxzGaming I just found that Q7 RTR on Aliexpress is exactly $120. www.aliexpress.com/item/32964780407.html?

Beaver's Hobby does the q7 have a lot of body kit options or different car options? I just don’t know how I feel about the clear body.

Out of the box I'd pick Q1. It's easier to drift because it's slower and more manageable. But after some modifications with new transmitter K969 is a much, much better car. So, Q1 if you want to keep it stock and K969 if you like to modify.

@@BeaversHobby Thank you! i will keep it stock. I´ll buy the Q1!

@@iverdh3780 My pleasure. Good luck with the project.

Atomic AMZ if you can find it or Mini-Q Q7 which has all the adjustability out of the box.

@@BeaversHobby thanks! Do you lean slightly towards one over the other? I will primarily be drifting but am happy to be able to adjust the setup to suit drift or touring.

@@ShiftyTys It depends on what body will you use. AMZ for narrow body and Q7 for wide body. As for my prefer chassis, if I go with the basis of which car I play the most it would be Q7. Not that a narrow body can't fit because I'm using R34 body right now.

@@BeaversHobby Thank you friend. so r34 is a wide body?

@@ShiftyTys R34 is narrow.

I don't have one but presumably the speed should be around MR03.

Thanks for the input. I see that this is not a conclusive test because it's still missing the gearing and battery spec information, also wheel diameter play a part in this too. But at least I hope it can be a reference point for the out-of-the-box cars like WLtoys, Mini-Q Q7, Firelap and Mini-Z. ps. I actually recorded the final drive of each car but didn't put it in because the graph will be cluttered. That was a mistake on my part.

Here, I bought it from HobbySearch. www.1999.co.jp/eng/10131894

been seeing them on eBay lately too.

@@BeaversHobby thanks a lot bud

@@modelnutty6503 for sure ill check it out

Yes, 94mm wheelbase shell. You can't use side clips though. You'll have to fashion a magnet mount like this. EP1. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-U8kbobTW_10.html EP2. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--kKLbRNrDxY.html

Ah ok tks

@@nocash.6207 My pleasure.

@@BeaversHobby I'm new to micro scale rc cars so I jsut subscribed to keep myself well informed. Keep up the quality content!

There are 5 motor mounts for Mini-Z: HM, RM, MM, MM2, LM. Each one gives different handling characteristics. (I've mentioned this in my MR-03 review.) Usually 98mm wheelbase cars come with MM or mid motor (motor before axle) and gives you more stability. Nowadays 90 and 94mm wheelbase cars come with RM or rear motor mount which is axle before motor and this swings the rear out causing oversteer easily. But again, it all depends on your driving preference and style.

@@BeaversHobby thanks sir. I'm newbie in this scene. So I'm still studying the product such as chasis & upgradable parts of Mini-z. Do u think Mr-02 or ma-010 is still reliable in 2020 for competition (after upgrade)? Since mr-030, ma-020 is kinda pricey.

​@@MDXZFR Yes, if you only look at the chassis they both are still competitive in their own classes. Well, MA010 and 020 aren't that much different anyway and you can put rear double wishbone suspension in MA010 too. However if you look at other class you might be able to take Atomic AMZ and race in AWD open. I also play with Mini-Q Q2 which is combination between MR02 and 03, and it's really good until today. I don't know how's the price in your area but nowadays you can get MR-03 for around $140 and MA-020 for $165. I don't think complete car from MR-02/MA-010 era would come close to this price due to them being very expensive back then. If you can get them for cheap they are probably from 27MHz era which are not competitive anymore and easily get interference. Here's MR-03 with updated electronics and new radio. www.rcmart.com/kyosho-32332w-miniz-mr03-mclaren-white-readyset-p-76793.html?cPath=420_1184 And MA-020 with updated electronics. www.rcmart.com/kyosho-32613w-miniz-honda-civic-type-white-readyset-p-85399.html?cPath=420_1184

@@BeaversHobby Atomiz Z & Mini-Q is almost unavailable here. Hard to see, to find the parts. So I put those aside. I thought of buying wltoys k989 too & upgrade as u did in the videos. Lol. Talking about upgrade, the none 2.4G mini-z chassis, if I wanna to use Radiolink transmitter, I have to remove the whole circuit board, replace with new receiver & new esc right? Can it fit the chassis? So the brushless motor, how can I install it? Need an adapter?

@@MDXZFR To upgrade any Mini-Z to use standard RC electronics ie. ESC, transmitter you'll have to remove the old board, install servo controller because the original one is essentially 5 wires so you'll need a board to convert it to 3 wires to plug into receiver. Then install your own ESC and receiver. Brushless needs different ESC than brushed motor so just choose it however you use. There are small ESC too if you look at my Firelap IW04M mod video, that's the one you'll use for brushed motor. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qLM3Qh6kku4.html

Depends on what you want. AWD Touring: Mini-Z MA-030 RWD Touring: Mini-Z AWD Drift 50:50 : Atomic AMZ AWD Drift CS: Mini-Q Q7 DRW Drift: Atomic DRZ

No WLtoys in the list? That's ok I'm just on the verge of purchasing something better and making sure all my research is covered :)

Q7 Brushless but you'll have to choose your own radio. It's a good thing though, just plug 2 wires and you are ready to go. But if you really don't want to choose anything or plug anything in except battery then look for Mini Q9 RTR on aliexpress. It's the Q7 but not directly from Mini-Q and has pre-installed receiver & radio. The radio is not the best but it'll work.

@@BeaversHobby where do i buy Mini-Q rc cars

@@fazilhassan7191 Car bit.ly/2MuzSim Radio bit.ly/2WSjb0G Better get new wheels and spare dogbones too bit.ly/2ksB60i bit.ly/2ZUOABp

It only uses back wheels to measure the speed so I just hold the car up and put the running wheels there. Adjustable base would be nice though.

@@BeaversHobby I worry a shaft driven 4WD car would give an unrepresented reading, given the shared road-friction of all 4 wheels, against the frictionless flywheel effect of 2 of them freewheeling. I've seen other guys bending the blue stop plate, but yeah, double light front dolly wheels with car anchors and fans to expel the exhaust gasses. (hee, maybe not that last one;)

@@stevewatts3502 It works on 90-98mm so most of AWD will work. You'll just have to hold the car on it. Front rollers also have weight it them too.

@@stevewatts3502 there is no load on the front rollers so the effect is nearly the same as freewheeling

Or worn out brushes... there are many variables there.

@@BeaversHobby don't think it's had much use.But yes. Although some dodgy wiring was evident. Not my handy work 😂.

@@GarageMiniRCUK That red ESC is pretty weird as well. Some of it has faster reverse than forward while the program forward-break-reverse is correct. I don't think it works well for 2S lipo because it jumps to pretty fast from the beginning. Still, I have to test standard ESC VS VS Mini-Q 2-in-1 VS DumboRC VS 30A to see if each of them provides different power.

I'm not going to sell it. Sorry.

Just buy one from Banggood?

@@-joo3033 Yes, if you want a drift car get the K969. Or if you want a grip/touring car then get the K989. They need some work but it's not that hard.

If u planning to drift the stock one it won't last 2 days lol I've brought 1 of each all of them chew through the gears in a day or two that's y I wanted to buy his tuned version

Better to quit early lol

They slip out of the roller very, very easily. I held all of them in a way that would introduce the least pressure so I wouldn't skew the result. I also tested each car 3 to 5 times to get the most accurate result. Also one of them is FWD so I had to hold it outside the roller because the encoder is at the back. Whether you choose to believe me or not is your choice.

Don't tempt me, bro. 😆

40KM/h+ on a 7500kv motor (ensotech)

I felt that claims without proof where not a good policy. quick video showing 44KM/h with default setup : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-alqXjmyAC60.html

Nice! If my crude calculation is correct you should get around 100 KPH as well.