I didn't record it but I can describe what I did. First you loosen the nuts and back out the screws completely until there is no more resistance. I then had my father in law slowly rotate the crank with a ratchet while I watched the cam turn. It is easy to see which rocker arm is being actuated. Once the rocker arm is fully depressed it will stop compressing and for a a moment it will remain compressed even though you are still rotating the crank. So you will have a bit of "rotation cushion" This is when you adjust the screw down until it gives "stop" resistance. You don't want to "tighten" it but you want the injector to be fully seated or compressed but with no torque of any measure. Then you will back the screw off 180 degrees. While holding the screw with your hex key, tighten the nut down to secure the bolt into it's location. I am not sure what the torque spec is but I used my internal calibration where I know it is tight enough. 😉Here is a link to a video I watched where they are using a dial indicator for super accurate adjustment. You can forward to about minute 27 where they are doing the actual adjustment. I did not use a dial indicator because I don't have one. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ou1bFAMed2w.html
Thanks Seb, that’s super helpful but how did you access the crank? Underneath or behind the front right wheel? I also tried putting it on stands, in gear and spinning the wheels thinking that would turn the cam but it didn’t 😢
good video, had the same problem on the BLS about 3 years ago when the bottom end went out, put the asz engine in with BLS injectors , seals did look ok but i will be putting new ones on them soon 👍
Keep up the good work! I'm here only to see how much work it is to take the valve cover off. Mine is making a little too much noise, so I wanna take a look at the cam.
Great video mate. I’m doing my seals next weekend (waiting on new injector wiring loom) I have all my new bolts and seals (OEM) One question is… you stated 12nm + 270° for the injector clamps. Yet in some other vids folk have said 3nm + 270° I’d sooner go tighter, I’m guessing at 12nm you experienced no problems (snapping 😱) Edit.. Mine is the ATD 100, but I fit a 130/150 inlet manifold, egr delete pipe and had a remap too. 💨💨💨
I think 3nm seems too low. I think I could hand tighten to 3nm and even my small torque wrench only starts at 2 and the click is almost nonexistant. It could be an engine specific measurement too. It also good practice to check VW forums for answers. Many times they will even post photos of repair manuals
Bro. I’m not used to the accent combined with the Euro content from Germany lol. Are you a transplant? Thanks for the vid. Keep the TDI content coming! Cheers from Utah.
Well that is a tough question. I am not sure how much the bolts actually stretch and if that fatigue would cause them to fail. To be on the safe side i would say replace them. There are people in the comments that said they had reused all the bolts and had no issues....but for how long? The rocker arms aren't under a huge amount of stress but they are under continual stress from the pressure on the springs. And if a bolt stretched more than normal or if it actually broke, what would happen? If it were an emergency repair I would probably risk it to get back on the road but if you have time to wait for new ones to arrive then I would do that. Better safe than sorry.
Thanks Seb, I totally agree. I failed to mention they are new bolts. But I torque to 20Nm and turned 180degs instead of 90 degs. I guess the issue will be. How much expansion is left in the bolt when the engine is at operating temp. Maybe I'll kick the car over and see if it all my problems are resolved. It's been 4 years since starting.
@@BennyLC79 I would not be afraid to crank it, bring it up to temp, check everything or even drive it for a short period of time. But over the long term it would make me nervous. The valve cover isn't that hard to remove so you could probably get it done in a couple of hours and be back on the road. Here in Germany we can drive at higher speeds on the Autobahn. I don't really go over 160 KPH or 100mph but I wouldn't feel good about doing that if the bolts were in question. I drove my Caddy for a 12 hour round trip a few weeks ago to Amsterdam and planning a 24 hour round trip to Croatia this summer. I would not want to suffer a failure on a trip like that if I could have prevented it. Nothing would suck worse than finding that a bolt failed that I knew I could have changed.
Hey Seb, thanks again for reply. Wow 160 his fast... I agree with you. I'll at least see if it runs etc. And fingers crossed I'll be changing the bolts after. P.s I had my injectors tested in Australia. All were really poor basically dribbling on all 4. I ordered reconditioned ones from Germany.
360 thousand is a lot. I would not want to go to all the work of putting it in with that kind of mileage. I purchased my ASZ engine for 550 euro with only 130 thousand KM and that was with delivery and also came with a warranty from the salvage yard. The BLS engine was over 2000 euro because they break and are in short supply. If you could get it super cheap and then overhaul it with new bearing rings and camshaft....maybe? But that would be many hundreds of Euros/$$ just for parts, hundreds more for machine work and still a lot of time for replacement. But if it is a BLS engine, the rods are known to be the failure point so even a fresh rebuild will not change. I would stay away from BLS engines unless you are swapping the rods with upgraded rods. Another issue I found during teardown was the rod bearings were also pretty bad and would likely cause a problem soon if the rod hadn't broken
This engine only had 130,000km when i put it in and it was really clean. I don't think they were worn in any meaningful way. My BLS had 220k and they did show wear but were working without any issues. The injectors from the ASZ are a larger injector but to work properly would require tuning the BLS ECU and replacing the turbo with the larger turbo. The BLS has a different exhaust mounting with the Turbo mounted up and EGR valve located below which opposite on most 1.9 TDi engines. This changes the location of the DPF and creates other fitment issues. After replacing the injectors my fuel mileage has come back to normal and the surging at constant speed has also been resolved so i think it was just dumping too much fuel that I could not really use causing the driveability issues and poor mileage. I will refurbish the ASZ injectors at some point, rebuild and deck, port and polish the original head and I also want to tune and upgrade the turbo. That will be in the future though.
I can't give you my number but you can ask me anything here and I will try to help. Start by narrowing down if you have fuel an power to the glow plugs. If you have done major work like a timing belt or more then you need to check to make sure timing is correct. This can narrow down your issue.
