Nothing beats the sensory experience of working with real wood. Last year while I was recovering from my knee replacements I would go to my shop just to smoke my pipe and run a board through the planer a time or two. Great vid. Scott
Hi Peter.... I pride my self on being a finishing joiner and a high end kitchen fitter. Haven't really spent much time in a workshop but think it would come naturally to me. When I get asked to make one off pieces I have to rely on a cabinet maker who has a million pounds worth of machinery.....they could not do what you can! Great work and love the videos!
Hi Peter Nice little project, and quite an inspiration as I'm currently looking to do some shelves for my daughters room. i'm just getting to grips with the Domino, and this is the kind of job it's suited to, no visual fixings, all nice and neat. Greeat easy to watch videos, keep them coming
Thanks again peter for both your time and insight... not sure how msg got into my previous correspondence.. I clearly meant mdf.. predictive text, gotta love it!.. keep the videos coming peter, great stuff
I actually like the grain of pine, if you get a good piece without knots they can look great. I just got some pine boards 295mm x 19mm for toy boxes and they look amazing with a white wash paint. Good job love your work.
Me too; I have a small build coming up that needs a 'white wash over pine boards' finish, looking forward to it. Do you put a clear coat over your toy boxes after the white wash?
Peter Millard yeah I do, I use a clear none toxic satin varnish. In Australia we have a product called Leni by Boyle. Milk or clay paint is also a great option with the clear. 👍
Ha, missed these two videos for some reason...I usually watch them all as they are published. Anyway, great little project and so nice to hear the "rebates" referred to as rebates and not "rabbets..?" as the US guys call them. And "dados" when did that become a word too? They were called "housing joints" when I was at school..;-) Keep up the great work and keeping the English language going.
Great video Peter, much thanks. Do you have a video showing how your pull-down track saw setup works, I cannot work out how you account for different thicknesses of wood.
James Watson Thanks! No, I haven’t done a video about the table as it’s an off-the-shelf Festool MFT - if you do a search for it there are lots of videos about how it’s set up, and how it works. Short answer to your question is that the stop the rail bears against can be adjusted for height/thickness of material 👍
I wish your supplier would setup shop here in North Wales. I’ve wasted hours going through racks of ‘redwood’ trying to find defect free planks and usually failing, they would be perfect for making a video on cupping, bowing and twist, and the looks you get asking for 22mm MDF or birch ply anyone would think I had just stepped out of a spaceship. The search continues…..
Yet another brilliant tip. I have long clamps but sometimes not long enough, you have solved that issue in the future. Obvious really, but I never thought of it. Trying to get straight Redwood from my local merchant is a challenge in itself, lol. If later you decide to paint the shelf will the bees wax have to be removed first? My guess is yes. They look excellent.
Great video. I'm just a beginner and find your videos very helpful. I'm about to tackle a large CD storage unit that is 8 feet wide and about 7 feet tall. It will feature 11 shelves made from 8-foot long 6x1 pine or poplar. It is basically the same size as your shelf (not as deep), just taller. Would you say just the centre support is enough or should I use 2 equally spaced supports? If I go with just the single centre support, do you think a 4 foot span unsupported will not bow over time with CD's on them ? In your view, pine or poplar ? Mine also will not have a ply backboard. Of course a few anchors to stop it tipping forward. I was also considering putting a support far left and far right on each shelf, but I'm not sure if that would be over kill. Any tips for covering up the screw heads from side panels or could I use wooden dowels, is that wise or not Thanks for your time
That’s a nice simple project I’m sure she will be happy with it. 👍. Can you recommend a good quality orbital sander I have those discs with the Velcro pads on. ? Was looking at the Makita range etc.
Thanks! And they were 👍 I only really use Festool random orbital sanders these days, which may be a bit pricey for occasional use, but are generally very well balanced with excellent dust collection. ETS150/5 is a great all-rounder. Before I went that route, I had the (forerunner to) Metabo SXE450 which was a great sander for the money. Haven’t used the Makita range much at all, I’m sorry, so I can’t give a recommendation there. HTH P
Peter Millard I think also I haven't found my style yet as the subscriptions are very slow coming. I think maybe I am doing some wrong, just in the middle of rethinking the channel vs continuing with it.
Subs count isn't everything, though I agree it's a lot of work if you're not seeing growth in subs/watch time/views. FWIW I think your vids are great visually - really nicely constructed. What do you edit in?
Pete, I see you checking your overhead camera frequently. Why not put a spray painted frame around your work top which outlines the camera focus frame? Just figure out the correct outer edges and spray a bit of white paint over some cardboard to make an outer frame? Then you will always know where to put your subject work.
This weeks video offering was nicely done. Can you explain the back fence setup on your cutting table. I'm setting up my shop similar to yours and noticed that your back guide is perhaps cobbled together.
+J.R.'s Workshops channel Thanks! No, the cutting table is an off-the-shelf Festool MFT, the fence and hinged rail come as standard. Now my router bench fence - that’s definitely cobbled together, lol 😂
Lovely clear boards, did you specify Unsorted Grade? My local timber yard only has one grade of redwood, 5ths I think, you have to choose carefully to minimise knots and warp. Not sure they like DIY-ers there, I can feel the eyes on me when I sort through more than 2 or 3 boards!
Ash right I see, thanks peter, so do you generally work with MDF as a rule ... or does it depend on the client?.. I haven't worked with msg much myself I've tended to work with timber new and reclaimed tho I understand fitted stuff tends to be painted msg and face frames. I hate my current role but I'm passionate about woodworking and do believe I could make it work it's just having the "balls" to jump ship from as you pointed out a steady wage. Your inspirational my friend.
+dazlarg Most of the fitted furniture work is painted MDF, yes. Sometimes face-frame, depends on the job. I’ll just say that having a ‘passion for woodwork’ and turning it into a sustainable business is a different skill-set - you have to make what sells, what the client’s want; less about woodwork, more about business. Best of luck with whatever you decide 👍
Peter has this always been your career ..? How did you get into this line of work and would you recommend it? I'm looking for a career change myself but hesitant about taking the plunge.. do you have any advice? Thanks peter
+dazlarg No, I was a professional photographer (no video though) for ~20 years before turning to the splintery side of things to earn a crust. Always self-employed though, which I think makes a difference - I never had the security of a regular wage to give up! I started out doing handyman-type work, and progressed through a bit of house-bashing kitchen and bathroom work to fitted furniture, cabinets, etc... making it up as I went; still am... All I’d say is that you need to be well-motivated, and with a thick skin, but if you can turn up on time, string a sentence together in English, and aren’t too choosey about what you do when you’re starting out you can certainly get work. Hope that helps! Peter
Your vids are terrific. To someone, who doesn't have a great deal of interest in cabinetry. That, in itself, is praise enough. Why should I pay £150 for a telly licence when you're converting nothing into something and making it fascinating?
Hello Peter, nice work as usual ! Where do you find your metalic squares as seen at 9:43 ? I can't manage to find them (I also don't know the name of this kind of product :D )
Hi peter, Is it feasible to cut rebates using an electric hand held planer, with a parallel fence? I recently tried and failed, not sure whether it was me or planer or both. Andrew
+Andrew Stevens It’s not something I’ve done, but I think it depends on the planer you have - the blade has to protrude m the side of the body of the planer to make a rebate. You’d need to be very careful that the planer doesn’t get ‘tippy’ whilst making the cut. 👍
+Kranky916 Thanks! Yes, they’ve been a bit delayed because of that ‘work’ stuff - sure does get in the way - but they will absolutely make an appearance before too long 👍
Nice one Peter. Funnily enough I have just picked up a piece of redwood for use as our kitchen window board - right in front of the sink. What treatment would your use for both enhancing the appearance and protecting against the ever present danger of water splashes?
+Norman Boyes Thanks! It’s naturally resilient, so a simple wax or clear lacquer would do the job, as well as bringing out the grain nicely. I had over 1000 metres (a kilometre!) of planed redwood tanalised for my back garden fence... and ran out! Had to use untreated redwood to finish it off. This was ~12 years ago, and you’d never know from looking at it that there was a difference. 👍
I love your channel! When I watch your videos I always think, "Why didn't he sand the whole sheet or piece of lumber BEFORE he cut it up?" Is there a reason not do do that? Just curious. Very beginner here. Thanks!
Thanks! Part of the reason for sanding is to take out the marks and slight burrs caused by the cutting and machining. So even if you sanded it first, you’d have to sand it again after cutting. 🤷♂️👍
Is it true that you can't get stacked dado sets for the table saw over there? They're deemed "unsafe"? They'd be much quicker to use for rabbeting, than using a router table.
You can get them, but they’re not easy to use (all recent saws have a motor arbor that’s too short to fit them) and fitting them would typically make the saw non-compliant with all Heath & safety regulations in commercial workshops, which can result in a 5-figure fine and a massive hike in your insurance. They’re deemed unsafe because they require an unguarded blade - a real no-no here - and the mass they build up in use prevents the saw from braking within the required time. So technically they are available, but in practice they’re rarely used by hone woodworkers. 🤷♂️👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Oh wow, thank you for that information. I assume that shapers are still used in industry though? And those would be tools I'd be more wary of than any table saw outfitted with a dado set.
Shapers?? 🤔 All I can think of is a spindle moulder - like a heavy duty router table? Again, strictly industrial - you might see them in hobby workshops, but only if the woodworker has the space and money to invest. 👍
Not to criticize but to understand: the ends are taller than the board in the middle. Usually we cut them the same height to maintain visual consistency. Was there a technical reason for doing it differently?
+Muru Roa It’s a stronger joint with just dominos and glue, if the doms join the sides to the top/base horizontally; if you put them in vertically then there’s always the chance they could pull out under load. Unlikely in this scenario, with the corner plates etc, but it still how I prefer to build them. 👍
Peter your videos are very informative, always look forward to Friday! Is there any online retailers where you would recommend getting wood and Mr MDF from?
+Leigh Evans Thanks! I source almost all of my materials locally, so don’t have much direct experience of online retailers I’m afraid. I’ve purchased a few pieces ‘unseen’ from South London Hardwoods (slhardwoods.co.uk) and was very happy with what they supplied. HTH Peter
+mark odonnell M.C.M Joinery Hi Mark. Tight in the ends, usually mid-size on the faces - sometimes wide if there are lots of dominos to mesh together; most recent big glue-up had 28 doms - lots of potential misalignment issues there, so wide mortices the way 👍
+Gosforth Handyman Thanks! And yes, I did, apologies not to have responded yet - it’s been a heck of a week - but I honestly have no clue what your ‘rant’ was about, sorry! 🤔
The manufacturer of your light duty bar clamps may offer a connector kit that allows you to put 2 clamps together end to end. www.rockler.com/48-aluminum-bar-and-connector-kit-for-sure-foot-bar-clamps
Redwood' is the term used in the timber and joinery trades here to refer to Scots Pine (Pinus Sylvestrus) which despite the name is mostly Scandinavian now, hence its other name, Scandinavian Redwood, often referred to as just ‘Redwood’.
@@10MinuteWorkshop one thing I do understand is that we speak the dame language but words have different meanings here in Canada. A rebate means money back when you buy something and redwood means a softwood from western USA. Lol
