I would love to see a video on force feedback in general. What forces should you be feeling, how a wheel should feel turning, breaking, under weight transfer, acceleration etc.. Can't find any good guides online, just a lot of people sharing their settings for their wheel. I want to know what I should be feeling and be able to dial my own wheel in on a per sim basis.
@madduey It is very difficult to relay in a video "what you should be feeling" Depending on the settings in the Wheel software and the same settings in the game will determine, "How much" feeling you get and "How much detail" Also it depends on what level/brand of wheel you have as to the output that it is capable of
It will depend if you want weaker or stronger, just steering column with power steering or every-single feeling . . . or almost no feeling at all, FFB is very personal feeling and a true alien can drive without any FFB at all if the alien know car and track very well.
Ideally, what you need is a breakdown of each wheel based FFB setting (if using a DD wheel and base). Some settings can give the feedback a more "rubbery" feeling, some will add detail and others weight. Ideally, these need to be blended so that in a blind test, you could "feel" the tyres on the road and what they are doing. Obviously, most real feedback is felt primarily through the car chassis and into the seat. The FFB makes it all felt through the hands and arms.
very subjective too since we all like a different feeling in a real car, if youre still struggling try and make it feel like the car youre driving. I change it based on if im in F1, GT3, Le Mans etc, i find it helps me drive the class better and help feel the difference in cars cornering especially. Maybe I am just extra af though, but I first tried to make it feel like my real car but if you dont have one that also doesnt help.
I've had my dd1 for a year now but yesterday I tried my mate's moza r21's and now im planing on moving to a moza ecosystem I really like how solid the quick release is on the moza wheel bases compared to fanatec ones. Dont get me wrong fanatec sells great products but I think they are really behind from their competitors.
Thx for the helpful info. As annoying as it is to wait, and impossible for some people, this is a good example of why we should wait to buy new tech products - even a trustworthy company like Fanatec with tons of experience building FF wheels took a several years and a lot of work to get their first DD bases working as intended.
Another detailed video Ermin 👍. Waiting for the CSL DD myself, can't wait. Awesome as always brother. Force Feedback video would be great. See you tonight at Laguna Seca. Forever Racing 🏁
Man, you once made a great video about setting up RF2 properly... with many tips and tricks... it really made a big difference. How about another one of those for ACC? I for once struggle with FPS and to be honest, I think I have a good pc... 2070super GPU. Off course it's not only about performance, in the RF2 video you had many helpful tips. cheers
for cheaper wheels like g29 and t150 which i run, i think beamng is the best in force feedback by far. in assetto i needed to see the car loosing grip and in beamng you really feel what the car does. i just love the ffb from beamng the best by far!
Try rfactor 2 for G29 (specially official f1- pro and isi 12), You feel feel loss of grip, brakes locking everything nicely, You will be surprised with Rfator 2 on G29 But Assetto and AMS are not really drivable by feel with G29
This is a very honest and transparent review! Now I would love to see you make a video about the Simucube experience in the future when you upgrade/replace sim peripherals!
terrifying as some1 who hasnt used a DD but is planning on buying one soonish (was today damn it)....the idea its wonked and id never know makes me very hesitant
I bought my DD1 along with an F1 wheel for F1 2020 and a set of Fanatec V3 pedals. Two years later, my pedals just stopped working with the RJ45 cable, and my DD1 has glitches in the display with lines, etc. - When I first got my V3 pedals, almost every screw was over torqued which required me to "drill out" two screws to make my adjustments. - Fanatec has excellent firmware support and the DD1 works fine (except the display) and the pedals work fine with USB. Overall, yes I will buy again from Fanatec.
It's interesting you had an issue with your original wheel that many people may well have never resolved. I had a similar experience with the Fanatec clubsport. After they had to replace the original wheel after it failed within 2 months of buying, the replacement felt completely different to what the original had ever felt. Seems like every wheel experience is just pot luck then! And then a few weeks later my fanatec base failed. So that was me finished with Fanatec. Hit and miss pot luck expensive constant driver update shite.
currently on a t500rs, with fanatec v3 pedals in a home made rig, my next upgrade will come with the black friday sale this year so it's a ways off but i'm currently planning and saving up for a dd2, formula v2.5, mclaren gt3, podium hub for my current aftermarket drift wheel and perhaps if budget allows, a bmw m3 gt2 wheel. i'll probably need to reinforce or partially revamp my current rig to contain all the forces but i believe this will give me the tools i need to get to the next level in my driving ability. for reference, currently in ACC my PR at Spa with the M4 gt3 is 1.19,3
Thanks for the review. The Podium Bundle has been on my radar for quite a while. I have the V2.5 base which is very nice but the Podium/DD1 is still keeping me awake at night. I'm waiting just to make sure the PS5 doesn't pull some dodgy move and not let the Podium DD1 be native to the console. But when it does I'm gonna blow some hard earned schillings. Oh yeah.
I currently own a Csl Elite and am in process of deciding what I wanna upgrade to. This video has made my decision a lot easier. DD1 it is. Thanks for the review.
Just ordered mine brotha due to the latest drivers got to try one yesterday and was sold right away yes I felt a difference between that and my cswv2.5 it's sooooo good now lol I even got the v3 pedals was like why not haha also that podium rim is absolutrly my favorite rim to use of any rim some don't like using it with other cars like gt3 and gt4 since it's 27 but me I love it absolutely love it and to come with the upgraded paddles yes sir lol
Man would I love to even consider buying such an amazing sim set-up. I understand that you pay for what you get, this wheel is probably 10x better then a logitech g923 or a thrustmaster. I just wish they had some sort of a cheaper version.
So, is this the setup? Fanatec DD1 Fanatec Formula V2~ Wheel Next Level Racing GTtrack Simulator Cockpit Pedals? (ClubSport Pedals V3 good choice?) Any additional accessories that people would recommend? (i.e. mounts, brackets, brake hydraulic) I am thinking the above setup for Oculus VR. Would appreciate thoughts and comments from people on optimizations / recommendations.
So what was the issue with the first DD1? Did fanatec say anything? I have a DD1 from the preorders list and Im wondering if Im not on the same boat... What did they change on your unit, if you dont mind explaining in bit more detail.
@@MUCracing reading that makes me never want to buy anything from fanatec. i have read a bit on their forums and there seem to be quite a few people who are not youtubers and their issues seem not to be handled so great by the customer service.
i own the fhe dd1 ps4 since august 2019, & haven't noticed much of anything changing. quality of force feedback comes down to the programming within the sim. aside from that: anything direct drive will have the lowest amount of latency to that signal because of less moving parts between the drive shaft. a belt drive or helical drive will have those additional variables to execute, making for more latency to the output signal. nothing more, nothing less. all this nonsense about simucube vs fanatec vs the others... really lame if i'm honest. "smoothness" is generated by dampening/modifying the raw signal, thus dulling the feedback information that the developer was intending to transmit to the driver. interpolation for example, is adding additional latency via extended mimic variables, creating a much less direct feel to the surface. sure, we can be in this hobby to best mimic a "real world feel" - but in having this mindset a person's mileage is very limited in improving within the driving experience. i currently win many top split races in my series. i learned to be that fast by abandoning all "realistic feel" elements in exchange for RAW DATA to improve lap times. if i run inertia, dampening, interpolation etc my lap times suffer from muddy signal, and so will the next person at the highest level of the sport. turn off ALLL hardware filters. let the sim clunk around it's notchy nature & it will provide hou the most accurate detail of the road surface for whatever sim you are running. in closing; new buyers should buy the cheapest reputable dd they can find. in this case the csl dd will be the perfect wheel and i wish i'd waited because running more than 5-6 nm will subject the driver to input fatigue, thus only serving to slow a person down. the aim is to improve, the aim is fast. none of this banter posted by youtubers about this or that is relevant to either pursuit. the time would be much better spent learning about slip angle, corner entry/exit speeds etc i do appreciate this channel, but not when divergent material like this weighs down a buyer. buy direct drive. spend little. buy load cell pedals, spend little. that is all
@Ty___ Charles I agree with you but I have a question. What do you do against oscilication ? Like on the straights when you let go the wheel, the wheel will shake from left to right violently, which is not ideal offcourse. I don’t use inertia or interpolation. But FEI I use 100. I have dampening on 50 if I put that OFF it will oscilate extreme. I use ACC and have gain at 70%. What should I do …
@@bmwM3M5M6 are you using a direct drive? if not, can you still run fanalab? if so, select the "dynamic ffb" tab & tweak speed sensitive dampening to the threshold which eliminates oscillation. if the belt driven wheels don't support fanalab then add just as little "natural friction" as is necessary to pass that threshold where the oscillation stops. ideally you want direct drive, where oscillation will mot occur, at all. i run acc with these settings: in sim- gain 100% (should always have full signal from sim & dial it back via the hardware) min force 0 dynamic damping: 0 road effects: 0 steering lock 1080 freq: 333 linearity 1.0 gamma 1.0 on wheel: sen 1080 ffb 25-30% linearly off nat damper off nat frict off nat inertia off interpolation off ffb int 100 force effect 100 spring effect 0 damper effect 0 brake force 100 (dial the load cell bia brake performance kit if ising csp v3 been sim racing nearly 2 decades. been there, done that attitude, and stand behind what i'm saying with 100% conviction. my lap times prove it quite well, in the series i compete
@@seattletyler Thanks for the quick reply and settings ! I only don’t know what you mean by: Speed Sensitive to the ‘Threshold’. To the max you mean ? And also I tried putting in-game gain more then on the wheelbase, but then my Force feedback clipping meter in-game HUD right below becomes RED which indicates to clipping…. Is that normal or do I don’t need to give attention to it ? (It was my own settings not yours). Gonna give your settings a try. I’m using Fanatec Podium DD2 and have Fanalab.
@@bmwM3M5M6 very odd that you're experiencing oscillation on a DD with those settings. i even went through a practice run after reading this to be sure, and i have a completely steady wheel at speed, on monza. the speed sensitive settings are contained within the 'DYNAMIC FFB' tab, located near the top of the fanalab window. by "threshold " i am referring to the point which oscillation that is occurring, stop occurring. have you tried all the settings i provided, yet? @25% you should be winding up around 5nm at peak. the forces at these settings are lowest latency, full signal, uninterrupted by hardware "magic". if sim is detecting clipping i'm certainly not feeling it through the wheel. i am certain that driving with these settings more than a few days (sleeping a few times with the new pattern to facilitate adaptation) will improve anybody's lap times if they previously went gung ho with the filters
@@seattletyler I find it to light for my tasting… I can control the Lambo Huracan GT3 EVO on ACC much better if I use high torque like 17,5 NM from the 25Nm. If I use less torque I’m feeling like uncertain about the control especially on Mount Panorama and Eau Rouge at Spa… I owned a belt driven Fanatec CSL Elite with max 6Nm and had a lot of clipping cause I used all the max power. Now with DD2 at the beginning I was not faster immediately but after adaptation to the high torque, I broke all my personal best laptimes. Offcourse maybe it’s a braingame but I consider that the CONTROL of the Lambo that I drive made the difference in faster laptimes.
Nice video man! Very informative! I was wondering what’s the best rig available for a dd wheelbase?? I just disposed my CSL elite and probably going to wait for the next gen dd1 to come out, and thinking when I do to pair it with a sim lab rig! Any thoughts?
Ermin, A thorough breakdown of each setting, what it represents (in layman's terms) and how it can change the overall feel for that setting would be good. For instance, LINEAR is how the FFB affects......etc, etc. And then how these can be blended together for the best (realistic) FFB for a particular title.
Great video Ermin.... I just bought the next level wheel stand to go with a Thrustmaster TW and found it a bigger improvement over a G920 on my PC desk (the desk isn't that solid... or not solid enough for a wheel anyway...). My only gripe with the wheel stand is it's pretty heavy and cumbersome to move around for me with my bad back..... here's hoping I can eventually afford to build a decent rig.
I love my DD1 with ACC GT3 cars. I notice though that the rim knocks violently when hitting a bump at high speed or just before coming to a complete stop when braking hard. I set the FEI to 50 percent which helped but it still knocks
I somtise have it to, did you have the screw isurted in your dd1,because if that is the problem, you could have gotten an isue with your steering wheel
the CSL DD and their new 'cheap' pedals are both very interesting for me, so i cant wait to see the reviews for that new unit. unfortunatelly as with many good tech things nowadays one might need to preorder to get one even...and that will likely happen before reviews.
dont bother with the cheap pedals. the price difference from their 3 pedals with the loadcell upgrade vs clubsport v3 pedals is so small your better off gettin the v3 of a different brand of similar price. i have used g920 pedals, CSL elite pedals with LC and the v3 CLUBSPORTS. get the clubsports
They fix your wheel and send you another wheel. But I have the limited edition dd1 and they took it and sent me a regular one I’m pissed and it’s not worth it unless you stream. The only people who get taking care of in this world of racing.
In fairness, Ermin is doing heavy promotional work for Fanatec. The RU-vid platform sells many more general consumer products than a billboard or a TV ad. I would NOT have bought a DD setup just from a website promotion. Consumers need the youtube community for valid and objective reviews. Also, if they've swapped your limited edition setup for a regular one, you need to chase them about it. That is plain wrong!!
Very nice video as a new owner myself during the pandemic I have been pleased as an upgrade from the T300. Although very much agreed that I would like to see some focus on settings. It feels like Fanatec’s are outdated from newer firmware, and I am often uncertain if I am dampening or making things worse by messing around with them too much.
Hard to believe that you actually drive your podium F1 :) .. handles look too clean for something used :) (damn, Fanatec, for not offering leather/rubber trimmed handles for anything but warranty replacements for wheels that originally had them, and also for choosing light blue color for this, that is so easy to get dirty and needs to be cleaned so often)
Hello, I’m planning to get either the DD1 oe the DD Pro, I’m leaning towards the DD1 for the extra torque but I’m concern about multiple reports regarding cogging or notching, has the issue been fixed by Fanatec? Also how much smoother is the DD Pro if you compare it to the DD1
@@satchitananda1820 I went to a friend house who just bought himself a DD1, and I only notice the cogging when the unit is off or when the car is not moving, but while driving I don't feel any cogging
So Ermin, Do you think it's the firmware or the change to a more solid rig that made the most diff? Mine is pretty solid CSL elite MotionSIM. but I can easily make it way stronger by welding in some triangles. Firmware or Rig? that's the question my friend! Hope you answer. DMAX motion sim
Now you have me thinking. I have the Porsche GT3 wheel on the CSL elite wheel base. & I kinda think I expected more from wheel. I wonder if it’s the wheel base not “fitting” or married to each other? Am I other thinking this or maybe my settings are off.or I am expecting to much.sorry again this video got me thinking
Your wheelbase is to weak for the Porsche wheel. I have it on the DD1, and it’s fantastic. Ironically I play GPL at the moment, a almost 25 year old racing sim, and I works like charm with the DD1.
@Musicbox Entertainment I get you. We all crossed that bridge at some time. I just started watching a ton of sim racing videos on gear and what people are running so I make minimal mistakes stuck with proven equipment and I'm loving sim racing. First started playing need for speed on pc over 20 years ago and look at me now V3 in VR 🤗
I worry with the new dd wheel,the demand will be that high that customers will be waiting for 2 years to receive their dd bases.Humans jump onto thing like the plague these days,even people that already own 3 wheels will want one lol.
Usually best to let a new product like the upcoming budget DD wheel be out for at least 6-8 months and let the early adopters be the beta testers for the initial major launch and see how they do and hold up out in the wild.
Hi I hope everyone is OK I am thinking for buying pot UDD1F1 for PlayStation five do you think it’s good? Thank you for your time and my regards to all of you
I have been hanging out to get the magical DD wheel. Various touches of reality have so far prevented such a thing but now, especially given this current report I will get one and would love a setup guide. However I am only going to buy such a thing if it is from somewhere in Australia, preferably Melbourne. Do you have such a recommendation?
I’ve got a podium direct drive on ps5 and would love some settings for it wrc 9 and ACC that would be great ,, mine broke after 2 days and took 2 months to get fixed .... only had it back days would really appreciate some good settings ??
I bought my podium F1 set in 2019, but had it on my SimLab gt1 evo and it replaced my logitech g29. So worlds apart. Although there were a lot of sowtware releases, they were all beta for almost a year and some introduced new minor issues like knocking when powering off. Since version 401 the software is fault free and the experience is awesome. I had 1 hardware issue so far. The psu fan would keep spinning hours after turning off my wheel and fanatec sent me a new one in days, so customer service is good in my experience. But for me, if it would come to it now I would be undecided between the dd1 and the simucube 2 sport. Mostly because I payed 1600 euro for the podium set and the simucube was more and also the fanatec supported my ps4 aswell as pc. I stopped racing on ps5 and only race on pc now and the podium set is 1800 euro today. Only reason to go dd1 is that I now own the f1 and podium porsche gt3 wheel, the v3 pedals and the fanatec killswitch and I have to sell that, but then again it would be a good motivator to get heusinkvelds, haha. I just hope the podium will last for years to come because I love it
@@Ermz was it just the force feedback strength, or was it fidelity also? My DD was purchased around the same time, and to be honest I have just never been "one" with it.
Well i must say that i went away from Fanatec because of the bad drivers/firmware but first and foremost for the software. But you should get rid of that sloppy Cockpit. Get yourself a extrusion rig like a Simlab P1 or Trakracer tr80/160. Youre loosing still much of Feedback and feeling just because of that flex and belive me you got one. ;)
Don't buy shit from them! I did an update with their new firmware and it corrupted my unit. It doesn't want to turn on now. And support sucks ass! They're giving me the run-around for 5 months now. One step for every 3 weeks it's ridiculous don't buy anything from them. I'm throwing my s*** away. I am done with it. I have two steering wheel pedals, everything is, and I'm getting rid of it all. They are so unprofessional it's ridiculous. I have the podium dd1. I have about $7000 into this, and I am fed up with it. They used to be awesome, but they went downhill in a hurry. I don't recommend
Super helpful video bro. Do you think a Playseat Challenge will be sufficient for a DD1 setup or a little on the flimsy side? Obviously not in a situation atm where I can allocate space to solid sim rig/seat
Well its pretty obvious your in the advertising busines...wonder what fanatec sent you sfter this video...one thing Fanatec are not is VERY NICE as quoted in this .....Fanatec customer service is awful
