Mr. Sellers I would like to express my deepest gratitude for the many tip from your uploads, throughout this strange year. With the hope of a joyful and safe holidays, to you and yours, A happy subscriber, -Hans
Just wanted to give a note to the editing team, leaving in slight "mistakes" such as Paul saying "you've got an equal deep depth" and catching his little smile after as he corrects himself is wonderful. I love seeing his personality shining through! Those little things - and in loads of videos he has these moments where he will lightly make remarks or jokes - are wonderful to me. I love seeing people, not just humans who are skilled at what they do. Those little things always make me smile!
Hi Paul. I know many people praise you and you deserve it. I started watching you on RU-vid in 2010. I just really want to say thank you so much for all the years of your content. Thank you also for your Woodworking books. I know you'll be with us for a while longer, but you will surely be missed on that day you retire. God bless you. Merry Christmas. Neil.
Saw this comment on a video I'd never watched, and was confused for a bit! Did I forget watching this video before? :D Paul is indeed a great source of woodworking wisdom.
Brilliant. Love the plough plane one, that's happened to me a few times, especially in knotty pine, where I've had to incorporate the knot to save timber. Unfortunately, I have the ridiculously heavy clamps (Bessey) that allow for amazing[ly unnecessary] clamping power, but when you leave a board clamped on a tabletop, unless you have the clamps orientated in different directions, it will tip off (from experience)! I wish I'd not followed the hype and just gone for the cheaper sash clamps. That said, I've often thought a wall clamping system would be a better idea, just a large sheet good hooked over a cleat on the wall, angled out at the bottom so the pieces can be laid on it easily, with gaps for clamps, or even a wedge system. Basically leveraging gravity, while allowing the work to stay out of the way. Maybe there'd be an issue with that, I'm not sure.
If you have room for a wall panel clamping station, go for it. Especially if you routinely clamp panels together. I know a few guys who make tables and the two who have wall systems swear by them. The one who doesn't wishes he had room for it.
Heavy clamps are whole purpose: I managed to repair a farming implement with very strong springs using that extra clamp power. I also used those clamps to provide a stable base for some welding. They're Urko (no sponsoring involved LOL).
Wiping excess glue is so against my nature.. I've worked too much with PU glue I guess. I always wait till it's gummy and remove it with a paint scraper, chisel or chisel plane.
Hi Paul, just thought I would leave a message just to let you know that I get a lot from your tutorials. I’ve completed a number of projects following your steps and have enjoyed it at the same time. Please keep doing what you’re doing and thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge with us it’s probably appreciated more than you know. Keep up the good work and stay safe.
Not only wax but rubbing a bar of soap works wonders in reducing wood-on-wood friction. Same works with screws - just scrape it on the bar of soap and it'd be much easier to screw into wood.
One question that keeps coming up in my mind: You're using old tools and wise techniques, but when gluing you stick to regular white plastic glue. Have you used hide glue/bone glue in the past? Did you dislike it, or why don't you use it anymore? From what I've gathered in todays time with heated rooms, heat guns etc. there seems to be no reason not to use hide glue as a less toxic, malleable, reversible alternative to modern glue.
In my experience, each glue has it's place. Hide glue is reversible and will come loose with heat, but has no real water resistance, so you have to choose carefully when using it. Titebond never really will disolve once dry, it may soften, but to really remove it will require removing some wood also, which may be problematic.
@@jimthesoundman8641 If you add alum to the hide/bone glue it becomes water resistent once cured. Still reversible with heat, but no longer susceptible to moisture.
Yes Mister Paul again a really learning vid!! You're tip on the spoke shave is excellent. Works really well, thank U. Greets from the Netherlands 🇳🇱 this is Jur
Thank you very much for your time & for sharing your experience in these videos. You & your family have a merry Christmas. Have a happy, healthy & prosperous New Year.
In case anybody doesn't know- a Sharpie pen will put a mark on steel that will last until it wears off due to use which could be a long time. If you want the mark to be temporary then it will come off easily with acetone, maybe also with other common workshop solvents. I tend to use little strips of blue tape as my temporary marks and the edge of a strip could indicate the mortise depth. But I will also put on a piece of blue tape and then put pen or pencil marks on the tape.
Helpful tip addition, thanks. Nail polish remover will take off the marker too. Of course if you routinely wax or oil your tools to keep rust down, the marker will come off much easier still.
Always enjoy Paul! I hope you have a Merry Christmas. I made your Christmas Trees with my son the other day. We messed up a few but had some fun making them.
Paul I lost my grandad several years ago and ever since I’ve been looking for a surrogate, I’m a carpenter and I’ve got some kids you could pretend are your great grandchildren if you like. What do you think?
Who said old dogs can’t learn new tricks-he can if he is shown by an expert. Thanks Paul for these great tips 1 question, I think I know what you mean but could you expand on the term”wild grain”. Thanks and Merry Christmas and happiest of Holidays!
There is such a gulf between a lifetime’s experience and no/little experience. Just the simplest tools that I’m not aware of that Paul has lying ready at hand-I’ll just have to keep tinkering away without them...
Greetings from Canada. Like most, I expect, I hardly post comments. But here I'd like to THANK YOU, Paul. For all the years I've been watching and LEARNING from you. I hope to be doing that for years to come. Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year from me and mine to you and yours, Paul. Andre
Another useful video, without commercialization or clutter, and of a perfect length for anyone to fit into their day. That's the way to do it! However, I think many of us in this crowd also love your long-format videos and series, as well. Not to be greedy, but I hope you keep making both: short, quick videos on a wide variety of useful topics, and long, in-depth videos on specific projects. Merry Christmas!
All good ideas. I use sawdust for excess glue, the fine stuff from a table saw or bandsaw.. It's like scouring powder for wood without the powdery mess.. Cleans up like magic.. I have Matt Jackson of Next Level Carpentry to thank for that one ..
Great tips, but one thing I have to compliment you on is consistently taking the time to add metric conversions for measurements. It's such a subtle but helpful way to make sure everyone understands regardless of whether they're using Imperial or correct...'scuse me...metric measurements :)
For the screwdriver for split nuts, they actually make them like that now, can be found in a cheap "security bit set". For the clamp setup, I've been doing it that way for yrs, to me, that's just common sense to keep the legs of the clamps all on one side. I won't disagree with the use of wood chips to clean up glue squeeze out but, I still prefer to use painters tape around my glue joints. I've never had issues with this method. Thank you for the tip about the wild grain, had issues with that a few weeks ago, was a pain to get finished but managed. I truly enjoy these tips, please keep them coming. Merry Christmas to you and yours. Cheers :)
Thanks for the tips, Master Sellers. The plough plane/chisel tip is quite inspired. Though all of them are really useful. Merry Christmas to you and all of your family and shop's families.
brilliant takes me back to when I worked with my dad from 1990-94 he was a master craftsman around joiner/carpenter like yourself he would show me so many tips of his trade that weren't of the norm purely his own skill set because he had bin working with wood all his working life from 15yr to his early passing after his 56th birthday some of the things he either made from scratch or restored for that wanderful stately home known as Calke Abbey in south derbyshre before it became a natural trust property as a harpur crewe estate worker he has left his mark there for ever you bring me memories and joy because you remind me of my dad please keep on posting as it's a absolute pleasure to watch Thank You
Love your down-to-earth approach to woodworking. I would like to see a program on DATUM planes for furniture making. How do you choose a datum plane and how do you set them up? I think that this would be an interesting series. Cheers Don Rossi
Thank you Paul. Techniques that are so obvious but not until you've been shown them by a master. I hope you had a good Christmas and will have a very good new year.
Thank you Mr. Sellers for these great tips, your excellent book on tools for hand woodworking, and a year of informative and enjoyable videos. Merry Christmas to you, your family and your crew.
