Every time I see the connection being done on the Shulder, between the floor and the walls, looks wrong. Water in a shower runs down the wall. This is a rubber type membrane. And the mortar gluing it together isn’t really waterproof. So you want to make sure the water cannot get behind the membrane. This means you must work from the floor up. Not the walls down. The seal between the floor and the wall in this demonstration puts the kerdi band on top of the wall membrane. This means there is only mortar is preventing water from getting between the wall and then down below the floor pan. This shower will fail.
Watching you use the Pex crimping from Chicago made me jealous. Code here requires copper or galvanized pipe only, and soldered or pipe connections, adding days and money to even small projects.
Hi guys, thank you for these videos. Regarding solution #6 - I see where you adjust the depth for the control valve using 2x4 and plywood - but my question, and the one I think you were trying to answer, is "how" do you set the depth correctly. You mention backerboard. If you have a moment, maybe you could go over that. Thank you!!
thank you for your very detailed instruction. Yes I had the same question because I have existing hot and cold valves which projected through a wall which was floated out 60 + years ago and the wall was irregular in thickness (3 inches most of the plaster mortar and backer board ). I was planning to carry on with the hot and cold rather than change over to a single shower valve.
Thanks for the video. Quick question. Why wouldn’t you just dry fit the drain pipe, get measurements, cut on a mitre saw and then install? Perfect level cut without all these steps
I am curious why you install the kerdi board prior to installing the pan. Seems to me it makes more sense to install the pan and then the kerdi board. The only reason I can think of is you may run the risk of damaging the pan if it were installed first. I have not used either kerdi board or pan before so I just trying to make sure I get this right.
Great video and tips. Have a question. On one of our bathroom walls we're going to run 6"x12" ceramic tile from the floor to the ceiling, 9'x8'. The area won't be near water, house was built in the early 1990s. Will we be okay starting right at the floor and thin setting the tile straight to.the drywall? When tiles are placed on the wall is the weight distributed down to the floor or tugging at the wall? We're putting Durock in the shower area. But will drywall be okay in the dry area? Thank you.
that'll work, we recommend dampening the drywall with a sponge prior to setting the tile; use modified thin-set and back butter the tiles to help with bonding. Also, directionally trowel thin-set parallel with the 6" side of the tile, this helps air escape from between the tile and thin-set and improves your bond.
Great video. Is there a video somewhere I can watch for a homeowner to install one of these systems that you used and where can these be purchased. Thank you so much.
About the drain, is it bad if the p-trap pipe was glued a little off level then set in concrete? When I dryfit the Schluter flange it is not leveled. I think I can correct that when I'll glue the flange to the pipe and force it a little bit to the side. The grate kit has adjustable parts.
At 13:22 you mention the pan fleece being embedded to the drain. I cannot find this pan collar listed anywhere yet it comes included in the compkete shower kit. Do you know where i can fnd this? Would it be just as good to cut up some kerdi membrane in a circle like this to achieve the same results? If so what would the measurements be?
Going to build a bath room in a section of house that was a previous bedroom. The house is 60 years old with hardwood floors. What product should should be installed over existing hardwood floor to insure a solid structure before building a shower or installing tile. Thanks!
You wouldn't want to lay over hardwood. Besides that hardwood is probably beautiful. I'd tear it up carefully and keep it. Then put advanteck or some other substrate
I’m installing a Kbrs shower base and my question is on all 4 sides there are flat areas before slope occurs how does tiling accommodate these flat areas? Do I add more thin set to set at all sloping?
I have a walk in shower. I put baby chicks in there for a few days with a heat lamp. The heat lamp fell face down and burned a 6" hole through the shower floor to the sub floor. Any tips to repair that? I'm just sick about it.
@@HomeRepairTutor where would you install a water hammer arrestor, when the only place we notice the water hammering is the second floor washroom. Could I install in the basement laundry room where the water main comes into the house?
What do you mean by Kerdi board vs Kerdi wall panel? My understanding is that they’re the same. If you meant which is first walls or floor, I believe these guys recommend floor/tray first.
I wouldn’t. Those waterproof membranes aren’t meant to stick to kerdi board. They’re meant for drywall Anyway what’s the point? The Kerdi is more waterproof. The membranes are more for water diversion
@@dylan-nguyen I just watched a video from the "Tile Coach" (that bald guy from California).. and he does double waterproofing on all his bath install..
@@hemidesign I've seen his kerdi videos I've never seen him use both only thin set for kerdi are you maybe referring to the white foam floor trays? not the kerdi pan
@@dylan-nguyen liquid nails on subfloor creates a barrier between joist and subfloor eliminating squeaks and if shower is installed properly no leaks than there is no reason to replace subfloor again. So next remodel shouldn’t require it.
depends on your system, for example, if it’s Schluter you can spot the air bubbles and apply more KERDI-BAND. Do you have a specific system you’re using?
I thought you must use the Schluter non-modified thin set for the waterproofing membrane? You said you used the Allset for this, is that correct? Thanks
Modified Schluter Allset modified thin set can be used with Kerdi membranes and boards. They do not recommend nor do they guarantee the use of other manufacturers’ modified thin set, though.
hey I know it's late it's just I'm doing my bathroom at my house and I have above-ground bathroom I'm not a plumber I'm going to tile guy I'm on a budget and my grandparents they needed my grandmom's elevator she need a little tub and I'm working on that budget and I am broke and spend all my money for two bathrooms me everybody's satisfied or both houses thing is I am not a plumber I'm a tile guyI do bathrooms all the time but I am stuck because my house the tub need to be tear out its above-the-ground least four and a half feet above the ground and I'm lost and then my grandparents house it's the old house and a just over women but I just asking for advice I can't even sleep mine overbottling Reagan as speak I can't even like just thinking I know it's late
I may have cut the pipe too far down, so the top of the pipe is ~ 1/8th inch away from touching the lip that’s within the flange piece. Is this okay to proceed, I still think I have enough of a connection for the cement to provide a good enough bond - thoughts?