Schluter Shower Part 2: Schluter Shower Pan and Curb Installation 

Re-Modeling my master bathroom here right now as a DIY´er. I use the Schlüter System. I am watching you guys and the Tile Coach. Both of you give me great insights into all this! Me, doing this the first time, I take my time. I can only mix one pound of Schlüter All-Set at a time when I install the Kerdy bands. Otherwise it would set up on me, HA! It takes me so much time to put it all in place and make sure it turns out right! Thank you for your tutorials!

First, thank you for all of the great content! I recently installed my first full schluter system for a shower. I opted not to pour self-leveler after talking to a friend and tile contractor who felt the floor was plenty level. Back story, I should have seen the red flag that the contractor had never installed over pre-sloped shower pan (always does mud jobs). I did however check for plumb in the shower area and looked good. After installed the pan, I checked again for plumb and was looking good. After the tile was installed the plumber returned to install the fittings and notices a "high" plateau spot in the pan that caused standing water. 60% of the pan drains yet this one spot does not, which the contractor told me I must have installed the pan incorrectly. We did select a 2" hex ... not sure if that was a bad option for the pre-sloped pans or not. My main question is if anyone has ever run into this issue and the best way to fix. From what I can tell, it would be to tile overtop of the other tile and fix the slope issue. My fear or removing the old tile would be to ruin the pan and impact the membrane. Thoughts? Thanks again!

Great explanation as usual boys, I am getting older now and don't use mortar beds anymore, they are a lot of work and demand a lot of heavy lifting to install. I only use the Schluter pans now, simple and proven!!

I know this is old, but posting comment for later viewers after checking both install guides. The 2"x2" tile size minimum does *not* apply to Schluter shower pans, but to Ditra products. Use penny tile to your heart's content. Great videos, guys, thank you!

I want to give both of you kudos on your knowledge and expertise on shower installs. You both explain all phases of shower installation to a tee, you even give advice on different circumstances. I watch a lot of RU-vid videos for repair and installation, you 2 are the best. I have never performed a shower install, but by the way you explain it, I feel that I have! Thanks, and keep up the good work. I bought all my Kerdi supplies after watching your video.

I never knew it was so much work in making a tile shower. Incredible.

Nice to see a real world video of an installation like this. The ones where the film it with a perfect-situation mock-up don’t relate to the real world.

i also kerdi fix the the gap between the walls and pan before i run the band, love these videos

The shower pan and curb with Kerdi pre installed is nice. The way Steve had to run the plumbing for the drain was a little different. Great video, well explained.

Very good narrating..clearly spoken and always using proper words to describe what's going on. Good voice for it!

Well... my night's complete now. Oh, and tomorrow I'm starting a Bathroom remodeling business because I have ALL the info step by step to succeed!!! Another fantastic video guys. Hope all is well, and Dirty Jersey out!!!

Taking on a new tub to shower replacement and this video answered so many questions about using the Schluter System Kerdi kit that many other video's I have watched, failed to do. Great job. Thank you.

You guys inspire me to redo my own bathroom in the future.. many thanks 👍🏻

I have read that penny tile is an issue for some people on the foam pans since the point loads are so small and it can compress them into it and anything under 2 inches is not recommended. However, I've heard others say it's fine, or to use an epoxy grout to make sure they stay put and become more of a monolithic piece. Thank you for the video!

Schluter and wedi make solid 2” board with the membrane on both sides. I use this to make my own curbs. Complete flexibility in size. I usually double the board up and cut to desired height.

this was so helptful! we are currently gutting a shower because we saw that the baseboard trim was warped, and we start pulling stuff off and mold, mold, mold.......so the shower is being gutted, the ugly tile has to come off the floor of the main part of the bathroom and the subfloor has to be pulled up too....ugh.....I love the kerdi products..they make life so much easier...cuz I don't have 10-15k to pay someone, but I will pay for a plumber to make sure the drain is right. Thank God nothing leaked to the ceiling on the main floor, the shower we are gutting is on the 2nd floor. but we need to check the joists for mold and spray the hell out of them with mold killer just in case. This is a tiny shower so working in cramped quarters should be fun.....lol. I've seen other videos that say to use unmodified thinset for the membrane, but Shluter makes modified and unmodified and the bag of modified thinset says it's for used with all Kerdi membrane products.......so which is best. From what I read the modified is a newer and better product.

Thanks for the video. Lots of great info. Want to eliminate notching the curb? I wouldn’t recommend putting the curb on existing tile. Existing tile floor will need to be replaced before the shower tile. With the existing tile pinned underneath the curb tile you risk breaking the curb tile when it’s time to replace the floor tile. I would suggest cutting the existing tile with a diamond blade on an angle grinder as close to the walls as possible. Dremel makes a 2” diamond wheel blade so you can use that to cut up to the wall. It’s ok if your cuts aren’t perfect. The new curb tile will hang down covering the cut tile. Looking down you won’t notice after you caulk that transition.

I always wonder why they roll out the membrane sheets vertically instead of horizontally. I’d think having a horizontal seam with a roof tile overlap would be much more waterproof than an equivalent seam running vertically 🤔

They say not to put the kurdi band all the way into the corner. You should leave a 2 inch gap from the corner or you will have an excessive buildup in the corners with all the different layers.

Very helpful videos, always nice to see the whole process. Btw, hate to be the guy who has to replace the floor tile once he realizes the curb is on top of the tile

This is an excellent video! I demo my master bath in two days and will be converting a fiberglass tub surround to a walk-in shower using the Kerdi system. This video will be referenced a lot. Thanks for taking the time to do this. Love all your other vids too.

Thanks good video, why not put walls on top of pan or drape fabric onto pan?

I’ve seen where you don’t overlap in corners but just run the band up to them.

All good until I saw the penny round floor tile at the very end. If I recall, they specifically tell you not to lay penny tile or other small format on a Kerdi pan.

Wow, you guys did a great job. Really liked the video. 👍👍💚. Can't wait to get this product and have my wife pick out some tile.

Great Vid. I'd like to cut the width and Height of the curb so it's not so bulky. Any video on this. I have a pony wall the curb butts into. I don't want the finished tile outside the Drywalled pony wall.

Such great stuff from you guys. To take the time to video your process is extremely generous. Keep up the good work. Love the videos. Consummate professionals.

I always install the base first so the base is crystal clean ! …. And the walls secure the perimeter base ..

Very informative videos, thank you guys. Is the thinset optional, tbe product manual states : Schluter®-KERDI-SHOWER-T/-TS/-TT are sloped shower trays with integrated KERDI waterproofing. The trays are made of lightweight, expanded polystyrene for constructing mortar- free shower bases.

I have installed my walls (Kerdi board) but haven’t taped yet. I now think I’d feel better if I trim the wall bottoms to accept the pan after thin set, cut the pan to fit stud to stud, remove the pan and tape the walls, install the pan, Kerdi fix where the walls meet the pan and curbs, tape the pan and curbs (my kit uses membrane on the pan and curbs). Would you talk me out of this? If yes, why?

Great videos man. Feel like I could have taken a whole different career direction had such videos been available back in the day (pre internets). Alas, I only do occasional bathroom remodels for friends and family, but with professional results.

Thanks again for this great and informative video! Before I install my Schluter shower tray, I'd need to replace a 40"x36' rotten subfloor. Does it matter if the grain of the plywood is parallel to the joists as opposed to perpendicular? I thought since plywood is cross laminated and each layer is of different direction and this is just a small area, it should not matter much. Please advise, Thx!

I just had to pull off all my kerdi band and corner fleeces after seeing air bubbles when semi dried. I was so worried about buildup that i squeezed out all my cement. Nerve racking

Wouldn’t it be better to install the pan first, then pit the Kerdi on the walls? Seems like that would be much better for water runoff.

Your videos are amazing, Thank you so much for all the hard work!

Wish this dude was close to me.... I'd have him do my bathroom.

I don't get it. Why did you install the pan last? All I see is a possible leak between the pan and the walls. I would've installed the pan first than the walls on top on the pan, that way even if those joint fail, it wouldn't matter as much. Maybe I'm wrong.

Styrofoam showers? What's next? Plastic car engines and snap together plumbing. Oh, we already have those.

great video!! but at the end you showed us how the drain is adjustable by pushing down to be flush with the final thin set penny tile!! but you just put thin set under it!! when that thin set dries how will it push down?? am I missing something??

This video is better than Schluters

Thanks so much and great videos. Just wonder if it's better to thinset bottom corners before the wall membrane? Seems to me it's more logical and have way less chance to have water get through the joint, since this way, water will always flow over the joint rather than into the joint

Is the pan sloped toward the drain?

Sorry but I like the old school

Great instructions! Thank you.

Isnt it better to install the floor first so the backer boards aren't inside the pan?

At 33:14 Steve demonstrates how the strainer can be adjusted after the tile is installed. But the at 34:11 he puts thinset under the corners of the strainer bottom. How does this allow adjustment?

I like your video only that I consider is curb that you set on old floor tile. What can happening if somebody demo that tile ?

The band on the right side wasn’t installed properly, I can see it wasn’t 2.5 inches from each side

Fantastic job guys!

You’re videos are really informative 👍🏻

Deviste cortar la seramica y no debilitar la base esa quedó muy débil

i back butter my pan also before i install it

Wouldn’t it make more sense to install the shower base before the walls?

How does this system ensure water is flowing toward the drain?

You mentioned that if you don’t have access to the underside of the drain, and will have to connect the drain first, that you have to attach the material before you lay in the pan. But how will the pan go over the drain? Isn’t the opening smaller than the drain?

What about build up in the corners with the band overlap. Since you are installing their corners why the over lap at corners? I know Kerdi does not want the liner lapped when installing the kerti band. The band is thinner and reduces build up.

Nice job on this vid! Thank you. Q: is dry/cure time required between _any_ of these steps?

MY GOD, VACUUM THE FUCKING WOOD SHAVINGS UP BEFORE LAYING DOWN THE LIQUID NAILS, AMATEUR HOUR.

Why use Kerdi band around the bottom at the pan? I just let the wall membrane come down 2-3 in and overlap onto the pan and seal with mortar. Same ???

Thanks for the great tips!

nice work! but why not vacuum out that duct before gluing in your patch?

Can the shower pan corners and Kerdi Band be put in first over the pan before the wall membrane is hung so the membrane overlaps the corners and banding? Does it make any difference? My thinking is that it would be best to shed water over and not behind the corners and Kerdi Band. Thanks.

You guys are great..thank you !!

why would you not set the pan to the rock , put the five inch roll from pan to rock , then over lap the roll with the mesh thus creating positive overlapping rather than a seam that would eventually leak into the framing

Can you cut the curb down in height? Thanks

I thought it's recommended to have the walls on top of the pan too prevent leakage, that would develop mold behind the Kirby tall.

Thank you so much for posting this, but I have a question… does the system has pre set drop or angle for the water to run to the drain? I didn’t see this done!

What if I have a gap on the walls around the pan

Thanks!

I see that you overlapped the corner floor piece with the other pieces...but I watched a video by Schluter systems and they butted the pieces up against the inside corner pieces and did not overlap it. Wouldn’t the way you did form too much build up of materials and affect tiles by creating a bump?

Schluter claimed that they will warranty their products if exterior Plywood is used not Particle board. Please explain of you using particle board in this video

I thought I heard somewhere that when you use the full Schluter Kerdi board system, it is not a good idea to use 2" or greater tile for the floor. Please advise

Don't your inside corners go on after the banding?

Great video and really helpful. Just a question on the Kerdi curb installation. Why did Steve leave a gap between the tray and bathroom tile so he would make those custom cuts on the curb at 18:30? Could he not have made the tray flush with the tile and then rested the curb on top where they both (tile and tray) meet?

Question, I have a seam where two pieces of my 3/4” Plywood Subfloor meet that will be underneath the Schluter Pan. Do I need to pull them back up to add short sections of 2x4 or 2x8 between each Joist Space along that Plywood Seam? Or would any deflection up and down along that seam not be a big deal since it’s Under my pan and wouldn’t transfer to my tile on top of the pan? Thanks.

Can you install part of the kerdi curb overtop of the kerdi shower tray instead of directly on the plywood? So half on the kerdi shower tray, and the other half overlapping the tile?

Nice work

At 33:12 he says that once the tile is in, you press the strainer down to the level of the tile. At 34:08, he put thin-set on the corners of the strainer. When tiling, if a final adjustment needs to be made, wouldn't the tin-set make it impossible to make that adjustment to the strainer? I'm confused.

It looks like the floor should go in first, then the walls

I'm installing my first shcluter shower pan/curb for my construction company up here in Boone NC. I ran into the same issues such as cutting out part of the bottom of the curb to allow for the existing tile. Your video has been very helpful. Question I have is does it matter if you install backer board after the pan to come down on the pan and of course tape and seal everything the same way shcluter recommends?

Could I suggest an olfa knife....great shower pan tutorial though👍

Thanks gor the great content! What are your thoughts on using schluter shower tray with a liquid waterproofing membrane on the cement board for the walls?

great video. couple of questions. did you do all the kerdi band, shower tray, and curb with just a half a bag of all set. also how did you ties in the existing wall on the right to the kerdi of the shower wall. thanks

Hi I love your videos and I have learned so much from them, thank you. I m planning to remodel my old bathroom that has a tub, I want to remove the tub and install a shower. I want to use pre sloped pan so I can tile right over it. I m a new DIYer so I don’t feel comfortable with the base. Now I am confused between three products- KBRS, Kerdi Board and Wedi system. Since you have used all three can you recommend which one would be cost effective and easy to work with that has better water proof for a long time. Please please help me with this I really appreciate it

I thought you weren't supposed to use tiles smaller than 2"x2" on the foam. The penny tile is much smaller than that.

Couple questions: The Schuter pan is pre-sloped to the drain, correct? Can you post the exact shower kit system you’re using? The Schuter site seems to indicate the drain and flange are not part of the kit. Also, if you are doing a very small shower stall, you’d still buy this larger kit and cut it down (possibly in half)?

I like the bloody hand. Reality!

Did I miss it or did you check the 32x47 area for level before putting in your preformed sloped pan?

Going through the duct???🤯🤯🤯

Hope you never want to replace that tile floor. If you do you, will probably need to replace the shower pan.

Love it, guys. Thank you!

Don’t forget to glue to pipe

***********AT 13:58 on video, it looks like the shower drain is installed with the PVC drainpipe not with glue, and no twist for the glue bond?

Is just the thinset enough to hold that curb in?... seems like itvwould be flimsy if you step on it getting in shower?... also can you use glass shower doors /sliding type with Kerdi.. stop? Thx

They curb can fail because it sits on tile. Id suggest cutting the tile out.

I thought schulter does not recommend tiles less than 2" square as smaller tiles put too much point pressure on the foam pan (shorter life).

Your website says Pittsburgh, but I'm hearing Philly accent or South Jersey, no?

Great job guys

Could you use larger tiles with this set up? Using the pre pitched tray and the curb? Ive only seen it done with curbless

My drain sits more then an inch above the Kerdi pan. Can I use plywood to build up the floor under the pan?