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You can sew a perfectly beautiful seam, but if it isn't trimmed, graded or clipped properly it can look bulky, lumpy and bumpy! In this video I'll show you my top tips for achieving lovely smooth seams thanks to trimming, grading, clipping and notching sewing techniques. These techniques go hand in hand with and are just as important as good pressing and I've linked a tips for pressing in sewing and dressmaking video below.
Not all seams need to be trimmed or graded, for example a side seam or centre back seam can usually be left in tact and pressed and will sit beautifully.
Generally trimming, grading, clipping and notching needs to take place on enclosed seams such as collars, lapels, facings, linings, pocket flaps etc. Anywhere where bulk and lots of layers of fabric might cause a problem. There are some instances where it is usually recommended a seam is trimmed or graded, which aren't enclosed, such as an armhole or crotch seam. Usually this is recommended in the pattern instructions and they will usually also recommend a second line of reinforcement stitching is completed.
My mantra is always to test on scraps of fabric first, so if you're trying out any of these techniques for the first time have a go on scraps of your fabric first to make sure you are happy with the results. As your confidence and experience grows you will work out what you like best and what works best for you.
Always check the fit of the garment before trimming, grading or clipping those seam allowances because once you've completed these steps it will be a lot harder to adjust the fit.
You will often need to combine several of these techniques on one seam and we'll talk about that more in the video too.
Here are the examples I will show you in the video:
00:00 Introduction
03:52 Trimming and grading a seam
06:40 Trimming an intersecting seam (three methods)
09:41 Trimming a hem allowance
11:44 Trimming a dart
13:34 Grading a seam
15:33 Grading and clipping pivoted corners
21:29 Grading a folded corner
24:06 Trimming, grading and clipping a concave curve
27:16 Trimming, grading and notching a convex curve
30:35 Clipping a neckband seam
31:41 Conclusion
31 июл 2024
