Credit to Owen, he's been doing a good job on camera as a presenter. I like the perspective from a mechanic. This video has been well thought out and offers good practical advice.
In addition to the quick clean of the drivetrain just wipe off the fork seals at the stanchion and the seal. Allowing mud and dirt to get caked on and pushed further down into the lowers will Quicken the contamination of the oil and it's lubrication properties
Being a Trail runner first and a mountain biker second I think the last tip was the best, just have to hose off the shoes after a run and I rarely corrode 😊
Very true about over washing the bikes, I only fully wash a bike maybe once a year, I do have 4 bikes that I rotate so that doesn't sound so bad! I really only do the big wash so I can inspect for signs of wear & get some preventative maintenance in there, chain check very regularly too! Well done Owen!
The best protective tape I've found is the "fuzzy side" of velcro. It's lasts forever without rubbing through and is quiet. I buy small circular bits for cable/frame rub points and the 2" tape for things like my chain stay (where the factory one rubbed through).
I already commute on a hardtail, but still change my route to go more or less 100% over roads right now. The cracking of sand in the chain is a bit much to take on a daily basis. I divide maintainance into 3 intervals: 1.A small cleanup with a paper towel or rag every day (~30 km) to keep the rotors, chain, derailleur, area around the crankset gaps, and fork decently clean 2. A more thorough cleaning and checkup for 10-20 minutes once a week (150 km) 3. A full wash every 2-4 weeks (300-600 km), and regreasing the chain as soon as it makes any sounds (about once every 4-6 weeks/600-900 km).
I honestly question at this point whether suspension service is even worth it it can be so costly. I ride 4-5 times a week and haven't serviced in over a year and have no issues. Is it at peak performance, no, but I really don't care. If I serviced every 50 hours or whatever I would have spent enough money to just buy new suspension.
@UnjustifiedRecs Totally. I did get all the supplies to at least do a lowers service myself. Someday I'll get around to it :D I am a bumbling fool when it comes to mechanical stuff though, I always manage to screw something up the first time.
Servicing your fork once a year is sufficient. I have Fox 32 forks from 2010 with 10k miles on them, with only 3 servicings. Run a Fox 36 831 Factory, new in 2019, serviced twice since new. Fox guidance is 30 hours for lower leg service. That's every 15 weeks at 2 hours a week. And you claim that you could buy new forks from the money you spend on service and doesn't make any sense. Only if you did it every 15 weeks, then that would take 3 years to equal the cost of a new fork.
@@dystopiaisutopia you're making a lot of assumptions about service cost, cost of fork and ride time. I ride wayy more than 2 hours a week on budget to mid-range suspension.
Great tips! Gimme UK mud over grit anyday. I'm a Brit that now lives in the sandpit known as North East Germany. Can't get anyway from it & it's insidious. Even with an OCD level of care, I've just had to accept that drivetrains last about half as long here as in the UK. Even my city bike isn't immune, Berlin is built on sand, it's everywhere, it blows on the wind. A friend of mine who's also a qualified engineer has just picked up a 2nd hand Scout 2 frame with the intention of doing some serious cutting and shutting to install a Pinion gearbox and belt drive for a forest hacker that has a drivetrain that lasts more than 200km. It may well end up in hacks and bodges if and when he gets round to doing it.
Specially with electric bikes. Change bigger front sprocket if you are usually using highest gear. Cassette wears out too fast. With bigger front you can use multiple gear more often at rear and it wears slower. Rear fender that protects suspension links can help. Frame protectors are mostly cosmetics. Proper spoke tension is good protection to rims.
I rode once in ankle deep mud on my hardtail , well more like slide my way down it was pretty fun , when I got out of the forest I started peddling like crazy and most of the mud flew off due to the vibrations and speed
Trail running is dangerous. I wouldn't risk rolling an ankle on all the loose terrain. I would much rather go over it on my 29r and risk a concussion :)
Trail running caused my to have knee surgery. Trail riding caused me to have wrist surgery. I like both, but my knee won't allow running anymore. With some experimentation, I have found a cockpit setup that my wrist can handle.
Service Suspension every 30 / 50 hours do you mean if you use the suspension for the specific purpose it was built for like XC Trail Enduro DH or simply every 30 / 50 hours you ride your bike , I ride my bike to the location of the ride and back so for me 30 / 50 hours = 5 to 8 rides
Hi, I asked exactly this of my suspension guy. He said, not only is the 30-50 hours a bit keen for some people, it doesn't take into account riding between trails. I'm mainly a roadie so like you I use my MTB on road to link up MTB segments during the course of a ride. Whilst I'd say stretching out the service intervals hasn't given me any issues with the fork, I have had other stuff like a sized rebound adjuster and that is just down to saddle time rather than active suspension time. Hopefully that's helpful info though :-)
Where I live the local legal trails are ostensibly "closed" from November to March and trail running is a great way to a) preserve the condition of the trails and b) not getting your collar felt by the local forest mafia. So I would deem it a good option!
I agree that the 3M tape is excellent at protecting your frame, I've used it on my bikes. But if you change your mind for any reason & want to take it off, it's a nightmare. It sticks to mountain bike frames sooo well. Too much.
Owen, my man, NO NO. Here is a real world, real rider, real experienced mechanic advice. Never ever use any chain lube that has oil or any sort of sticky lube, Use a wax lube like Squirt lube all year round and never ever degrease it. A drivetrain will last years if you do this. My drivetrain goes through winters in the muddiest conditions, summer beach rides, in the sea whatever. I'm still on the same drivetrain from 4 years ago. and the chain is still fine, still .25 on a chain checker. You are right when it comes to cleaning, there's just no need for powerful chemical cleaners, water is fine if you can wash your bike when the muds still wet, if it dries, just use a bucket of soapy water and swill it. ####### cleaners basically degrease your bearings so just save money and save your bike and don't use it. The time for a good clean the spring, get it serviced in a shop or do it yourself. Not a lot of point in the winter. haha Love the last tip, it sort of goes with your point iof not riding in the winter mud haha
If your chain only stretches that little over 4 years you aren't riding that much or don't have much strength. I use Squirt too and my chains stretch within a year. I wouldn't brag too much about using the same drivetrain for 4 years. That means you don't ride much.
I couldn’t be bothered to read your essay, but to never degrease your drivetrain would be like saying don’t use washing up liquid on dishes just spray water at it.
hahahahaha @@dystopiaisutopia twice a week, in all weathers, I measured it today and its at its limit, time to change. not bad though eh ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Eg_fpKeJAH8.htmlsi=mqt9dBj7pt2qbqcA
Best way to keep your MTB is hang it on the wall and never ride it. Sealed bearings don't get full of mud. Bike will take what i give it when i give it how i give it where i give it or it can leave and live with a wntabee on the wall. MTB were made for off road, dirt, mud, sand, rain. Better be for what i payed for it. And it better like it and want more. Or it'll end up in the trash ben. Period. Edit: that's why i ride a Trek they don't make wantabeee's. Walk art. Sure keepemcoming.
I think most know this...(but thanks).. But depends where you ride and what conditions, and a load of other variables that are not applicable to everything and everyone. BUT THANKS FOR THE TIP!
@@Hello_riders_1993 I prefer rock n roll gold chain lube, drip it on, spin the wheel a few times, and then wipe it off, dirt doesn't stick to it, it cleans and lubes the chain at the same time.
Hot waxing the chain is very good in dry conditions and semi damp. Keeps my drive train super quiet and grit free for a while. All you need to do after a ride is wipe with a micro fibre towel.
See when i see people riding on the sand on the beach god i cringe! Just waiting to see that chain pull itself up and round the chain ring the wrong way
Buying parts that last more than 5 rides. Biking is not literally dirt cheap. Dirt is literally dirt cheap. Biking is as expensive as you make it. That's the beauty of it.
Yeah that's bollocks. Especially if you're new to the sport and like gnarly trails, you're going to break a lot of stuff. Now that I'm a proficient rider and know my bike well it's fairly reasonable to maintain but still the costs add up...
Tire inserts are way more expensive than just fixing your room if you actually have anything. However, if you were actually running proper size tire, proper inflation for the size of your internal measurement of your rim, you won’t have a fucking problem breaking any car ramps. But I’m sure people have no fucking clue what they’re doing out there all the time.
