100 Series Land Cruiser AHC Delete. 

Yeah, it may be easier but as a professional shop we can't be cutting access holes in customers floors.

that's an amazing idea that I didn't think of.

I cut my boot pan out to get access to the shock bolts also, much easier👍

i know a faster more dyi friendly way.

The biz has come quite a ways since I started out mobile. There's three of us in a Cruiser only shop down in Bealeton now 😀

@@OTRAMM Thats very good to hear! I moved to NC, otherwise you'd see all my LC work. My 100 needs work!

Yeah, customers wouldn't be cool with us drilling holes in the floor. The ones that we see are so rusty we'd probably still end up cutting them.

I'd have to look back at the instructions. Slee Off-road has a really good write up with pics of the markings. I can get OME from my supplier but by the time shipping is factored in you may be better with Cruiser Outfitters or Slee.

We usually just tie the lines up out of the way and leave the other parts intact. The rust around here is bad enough that folks don't want to spend the extra money/time to remove everything else. The button is deactivated. We unplug the harness going to the AHC computer. Thanks for the compliment on the camera work. This was our second attempt at a video and I wasn't sure it was good enough to post :)

Compared to other videos I've watched on this, your stationary camera is really helpful. Nothing is worse than someone hand-holding a camera, in and out of focus. Shining just a little light on the actual subject really helps too, particularly when the background is is much brighter than what's being shot.

We do diff drop on any lift over maybe 2".

Without seeing it there's no telling. You need the sensor data to start diagnosing. You need to be able to watch the pressures to see what's going on and what the computer is seeing.

On the 100 series you don't need to do anything software wise. We just unplug the AHC computer under the dash. I haven't deleted AHC on a 200 yet so I'm not sure on them.

OTRAMM Thanks for your reply👍🏼. I will investigate futher

Any thing straight and as long as the torsion bar works. Half the time I use the garage door track since it's right there😁

I don't the ones we see are usually really corroded. No one wants to pay the labor to remove everything.

We generally use a trans jack under the axle for support and to pivot against. It was in the way of filming so we didn't use it in the video.

You must not live where they use road salt😁. We usually can't even discern what shape the nut used to be.

@@OTRAMM Lol you're correct. My truck is from California and has 0 rust anywhere on the chassis.

Yes, you have to take the weight off of the suspension.

It depends how tall you go. 1.5-2" you usually are OK. Taller and you'll get to where you need upper control arms and diff drop.

You'd need to run stock torsion bars from a non AHC 100 series. The AHC bars are too weak without the hydraulics.

You'll have to recheck everything you did. A mild suspension lift shouldn't cause grinding unless something is in wrong or your driveline parts are extremely worn out.

Milwaukee Torch blades.

If you look up next to the steering column behind the dash you'll see the AHC computer. We just unplug that and all is well.

You probably could but it'd be messy. We usually drain the bleeders but they don't always open.

You'll need to change the torsion bars and rear coil springs. The AHC springs aren't strong enough without the hydraulic struts taking most of the weight.

@@OTRAMM Thank you!!

@@OTRAMM what are the risks if we just increase the front height by adjusting old torsion bar after the AHC delete ?

@@tonyseno The AHC torsion bars are smaller diameter than the non AHC ones. I'm not sure they'd be strong enough to hold up the truck without the help of the AHC. I'd bet they'd be really soft if they could be adjusted up enough.

@@OTRAMM thank you for your reply 🙏

Not all 100 series have this system; it was an option only on the 06 and 07 model years and standard on the LX470. As far a reliability and highway driving, the 03 and up 100 series would probably be your best bet. This is the year IIRC that they started coming with the 5 speed transmission which should help (if only a little) with gas mileage. Timing chain > timing belt. I wouldn't let the AHC scare you away if you find a low mileage version with it, especially if planning to lift the vehicle anyway. They sold a lot more LX470s so you might want to look at those as well. They are typically well maintained. The 80 series would probably make a better designated trail rig but it is still a 25 year old vehicle and will need some maintenance. If you haven't found it yet; check out ih8mud.com for all things land cruiser.

@@the_cycologist9013 Thank you so much for this information. I am torn....because I found a decent 1996 but this will be my daily driver as well as our exploring vehicle. So I have read some forums that the 100's are little better (more comfy I guess) for a DD. Not going to do "major" off roading, but would like to get off the beaten path a bit more than we can in our Toyota Highlander 2WD. We plan on going out west eventually and I am really thinking a LC would be ideal for exploring out there with all the trails they offer. I would really like to take the seats out and make a sleeping platform in it. The 1996 is big in the cargo area. But then again, haven't test driven a 100 series. Not sure if they are same size.

I prefer the 80 from the over built stand point. The 100 is a more civilized daily driver and beats the 80 in the power department. Both can be great wheeling and daily driving trucks.

@@the_cycologist9013 Also - prob not planning on lifting (unless we start using it and change our minds of course). Would prefer to keep it stock.

@@OTRAMM Thanks for all of your help. Yeah I have read so much I think I am confusing myself. LOL I will be towing a trailer, kayak trailer - I don't know weight but my V6 Highlander pulls it ok. So I shouldn't have a prob if I go with the 80"s. There are just not a lot of LC available in my area right now for sale. I found a 2002 LX470 that is 2 hours away I could go drive and compare it to the 96 LC. But I was worried to death about that AHC system in the Lexus. I don't want to fall in love with a vehicle and that system be crap and cost me a fortune. ....... silly stuff but I really like the 80's series back sliding windows bcus we want to build a sleeping platform and ventilation is crucial (know this from sleeping in Van). I am kinda of nerd I guess and overthink things I am sure. I do greatly appreciate experienced input however.

The OME suspension has a nice feel to it. Maybe slightly stiffer than stock but not overly so.

I had mine done today and the results are great! The ride is very smooth but still has a firm grip to the road. I had the ARB OME kit, springs and torsion bars. I gained approximately 2 inches in the front and rear. I'll be testing at PINS soon.

Is OME just as smooth as AHC?

I wouldn't use it. They don't address the difference in the torsion bars between AHC and non. The non AHC torsion bars are stiffer.

I didn't bleed the globes or filled the reservoir! I deleted the AHC system on my 2001 LX470 because it was experiencing the same problems (Bouncy Ride). I installed the Strut Master conversion kit. Price was right so I gave it a shot! So far so good I guess. Only issue is the front seems slightly lower than the rear. I'd prefer a more leveled truck. Im thinking about ordering a new LX470 Torsion Bar or a Land Cruiser Torsion Bar to see if that will give me the leveled truck I want. I believe the torsion bars differ in diameter size so I don't know which to buy?

You have to change the torsion bars when deleting the AHC. The AHC torsion bars aren't strong enough to carry the weight without the AHC struts. If you want shoot me an email to otramm@otramm.com and we can discuss options.

If you cut between the bushings the upper half will just fall out.

@@OTRAMM Thanks for the quick answer. Excellent video by the way!

For the basic spring and shock setup it's just under a grand in parts. Going with the larger end of the lift spectrum you add upper control arms and diff drop brackets which adds another 900 or so. Labor is going to depend on where you are in the country. Labor rates around here change by 50 dollars an hour in a 30 mile stretch. Ball park though I'd say 900-1500 in labor. It also depends on how rusty the fasteners are. We average 1100.00 for labor on these.

Thanks for the info. My ACH is acting up on my 2006 LC (very bouncy on front at times) and looking to have perhaps a conversion done if it can’t be addressed. I would probably be just leveling the car out so low end of lift spectrum.

Technically they do unbolt. They're rusty enough here that we've never been able to get them loose. It's faster to just cut them.

I used a 22mm Craftsman pass-through socket with a cheater extension on the handle to get them loose. That is the only tool that I know of that works on the rear shock mounts. Normal sockets are too tall and won't fit in the tight space. Even using the pass-through socket was difficult - but doable with some patience.

truthclips can you give links to what you used to get the rear shocks out. The exact setup? Thanks!

@@lmnop7098 I had 3 workshops try and get rear shocks out ,i cut holes and did the work .now in the bush I can do it myself.

Bernhard Kinsky What are you using to seal up the holes?

The AHC computer is up above the drivers feet. Unplugging the harness from it will turn off the light.

I haven't done much diagnosing on them. Most folks just have us remove it. My guess would be that your accumulators have gone bad.

Did you pull fuses? They may share circuits with the AHC. We usually just unplug the AHC computer.

There was no AHC computer under the dashboard. I pulled out Ahc fuses and had no effect on the 4WD and the diflocks. Transmission wires are connected.

@@khashayarh7232 on some models the AHC fuse also powers other circuits. The AHC computer is up near the steering column.

I think that they have brought the computer. The day I took the car to the car wash and the water hit the car, the cluster lights were lit. I think that after removing the system, a cable or relay that is connected to the lamps is cut off or out. Anyway, thank you very much for your answers.

It's all going to depend on local labor rates. They vary drastically by location

Yes, the AHC system carries a lot of the weight. The springs aren't stiff enough without it.

I don't know. We never got TEmS on the trucks. It was a rare option on some sports cars. I've never seen one in person.

@@OTRAMM no problem thank you for reply tems or not what would casue it to fail quickly? Thank yo so much . I dont have a AHC LC or LX but what is the bare problem with it just rusted hoses ? can they not be replaced by generic hydraulic lines ?

Depends on exactly what's done, what parts are used, and local labor rates. If I recall correctly it's around 2200 from us but I haven't looked it up in a while.

It's free once you cut the shaft

Never heard of Pedders.

Go get it aligned and find out.

Any time you mess with ride height it will need to be aligned. I doubt the alignment is causing a noise though. Sounds like you have something worn out in the suspension.

Update: It worked. Love my new Landcruiser

We've had good luck with just unplugging the AHC computer under the dash. It's up to the right of the steering column.

OTRAMM Ahh yes! I’ve pulled the relay under hood and unplugged the hydraulic pump. Previous owner did the delete. Really lame job of it too. Did you cap off the lines or just let them bleed out?

Tyson Judd We usually open all of the bleeders and let it drain while we're working. Then just tie the lines up.

OTRAMM thanks for the feedback!

Fully capable of diagnosing and repairing it. But where we're located the 100 Series rust like crazy. All of the hydraulic lines crumble away. Most people aren't going to spend the money to replace the entire hydraulic system. On the one's we see there's no chance of replacing just the failed component due to the level of corrosion they have. It would cost more than the truck is worth.

How much is it worth there? Here wrecks in not very nice condition starts at 9 000€ ~ 10200 USD

I don't watch the market super close but really worn out 98-2002ish ones (which are what we see most commonly with rust issues) are maybe 3500-5k. The newer ones in better shape upper teens to low 20's.

when rebuilding these systems can you use different hydrolic lines like a braided steel line? Or just rebuild using OEM? Thanks

Could be your drive line.

Around here all of the AHC struts and lines rust away and fail.

We just unplug it.

Gotcha, about to do this on my 01 lx470

Sounds like they either didn't get the torsion bars indexed properly or didn't adjust them to match the rear. It takes us about a day to do it😁

@@OTRAMM Thanks for the reply! From what I've read, there should be about 50-70mm of droop. I got really concerned when I asked the guy where they set the droop, and he said, "the what?" ....lol I guess I should have said "downward travel" oh boy. Plus, it's a specialty land cruiser shop

@@thebigempty_5792 becareful with those terms, terms you see used on the internet are not always correct to what is used in shops

I've heard of that happening when people pull fuses to disable the AHC. On some generations the AHC and traction control seem to share fuses. We leave the fuses in place and simply unplug the AHC computer under the dash by the steering column. So far we haven't had any issues with other systems being affected.

Interesting. I will consider reinstalling the AHC fuse(s) and disconnecting the AHC computer as you suggested. However, it's a little scary because the problem only seems to manifest at freeway speeds when going around turns - the absolute worst case for a malfunction! Last time it happened, the traction control locked up the brakes on one side only and pulled us several lanes over to the right violently. We almost had a terrible accident on a freeway overpass with my wife and my kids in the vehicle. Thanks for the tip though. Nice video by the way. I appreciate you taking the extra effort to film the process and share it.

It almost sounds like you may have a traction control issue unrelated to the AHC removal. It shouldn't lock up on the highway on it's own. Did you have dash warning lights on prior to the lock up? I'd check the ABS harnesses really closely. Especially the two rear that run right by the upper shock mounts, I'm wondering if the sensor wiring was damaged during the suspension install. This is all just a guess though without actually having seen your truck and pulled codes.

There is no way I'm taking a holesaw to the floor of a customer's truck😂

Around here the AHC rusts out. It's waaay too expensive to go through and replaces all of the rotten parts, so we remove them.

@@OTRAMM but in cold climate it-s don-t run more 3-4 month

@@OTRAMM crazy, that 100's bottom looks mint, yet I'm shocked the AHC rusted out. I have a LX in which the bottom looks 3x rustier on the bottom, but still have original AHC everything

Why can't you guys pronounce aluminum, centrifugal, and understanding different pronunciations 😂