Good Stuff Brotha! You still need to pick up some of these servos I'm telling you bro they are perfect! Check them out on Amazon. JX servo PDI-1181MG 17.5g 3.5kg
@@sickduck66 Spot on Chris, I have these installed in mine. Just need a 3 mm screw that is the same length as the coarse threaded one that's in the factory servo. The screw included with the new servo is too short when using the WLtoys original servo arm.
Lol i dont even have the 124019 yet but when it gets here ill be putting in a sidewinder4 and that 3.5 turn rocket motor in it. Do u think ot will do the same speed richy?
For the 3.5 turn motor that you recommend when I go to the link on the website it says 1s Lipo battery recommended. Since you’re running 2s and 3S I assume it’s perfectly safe? Or would a higher turn motor be better on 3S? Am I missing something here?
I have actually seen people put closed wheel pan car bodies on these. They are very sleek and reduce drag at high speed because it is closed wheeled. It will also increase the cars overall stability.
I was looking at the 3.5 turn rocket motors and it says it's rated for only 1S lipo will it blow the motor on 2s with that rocket motor Ill be running a 120 amp hobbywing esc will it hold up
Hey Richie! Thanks for the shout 😀 You're doing sone really good stuff with this 124019, I think you should do the 4Tec body! And I think I'll be ordering some of those CVD's
Hi, do you know which Moss rubber tires can withstand a really very high speed, have wltoys 14001 with a motor-pinion module 1 26 teeth and a main drive wheel with 19 teeth and my Moss rubber tires shredded ..... 😜 at not even full speed. KV moror 4000 on 3s
More than I'd tell my wife... ESC is the biggest bit but a cheaper one would probably do, however the castle is high power and compact, just sent the dead one off for warranty repair. Of note the stock plastic gearing hit 104 on the other one I own, and the motors $46 and the batteries just over $20. So not too bad for the speed other than the esc, I may try and do a 'budget build' next and see how fast I could push one for say $100, do you think that'd be of interest?
I printed a custom back blate to hold my electronics that gives a really neat install allowing larger batteries too - for some reason youtube won't let me post the link though 😪
Great build Rich I have bought these parts for my car I'm turning into a rally car the front bumper with body posts and the rear body posts will work good with that race body LC RACING Body Post Set Black For EMB-SC EMB-WRC EMB-MT #L6033 LC Racing Rally Bumper Set Black EMB-WRC EP 1:14 RC Cars 4WD On Off Road #L6040
Kurt Many many thanks for sharing this, I've popped a set of the posts on order. I wish I'd seen the post earlier as I stayed up to 2.30am printing off some on my new 3d printer! My home made ones will make an appearance later this week!
Running the 4tec body is a great idea, you'll have more room under it to do things like: * turn the esc so it fits better if you want * mount bigger batteries (2s, 3s, maybe even ... 4s🤔) * run a fan on the motor if so desired Love what you're doing so far, keep it up.
Cheers JD! How you and the Fam' are all well, got snow? I miss the snow to be honest! Watching your nitro buggy has me thinking about getting one very soon, as I'd like to get a couple of new cars but not a lot of inspiration out there from the big boys at the minute
@@DriftomaniacsRC I am changed my plan and go back to electric RC. I am getting TRX4, UDR, and XMAXX. I sold nitro rc cars. It is hard for me to not hear an engine if it has a problem and too loud for dogs barking around neighborhood. Nitro RC is not waterproof. Electric RC has lot of pros than nitro RC. I don't have a SNOW! LOL
It’s so annoying when people tight the spring tension collar down and say it stiffens the car. The collar adjusts preload and sets ride height. That’s it. To change the feel of the shock springs, pistons, oil. All you did was raise the back. And front. And with the droop screws locked the suspension arm from moving freely. Droop screws don’t lower ride height either. The limit the down travel of the arm or droop.
Of note I raised the back, not sure how I raised the front by lowering it but there we go. As for the droop screws not lowering the ride I suggest that you take that up with arrma, as that's where I got the idea fromand in their manuals it says specifically to use the droop screws to lower the cars, but what do they know I mean they only make RC cars... Also don't you think it's odd that wltoys drilled four holes in just the right positions to fit droop screws? Weird huh? Like someone designed them in the right place... This setup just works plain and simple, most people will just take it for what it is, a video to help others plain and simple. 5 days of testing to get it right but I guess you know all that from all the rc videos you make.......oh er hang on....
@@DriftomaniacsRC droop screws are meant to limit the amount of travel of the arms down. Used in off-road vehicles a lot so when the vehicle jumps the arms don’t drop to much and cause the axles to pop out or jam/bind and bend or break. The collars when you screw them down on the shock your increase the preload of the shock and effectively raising the ride height of the vehicle. The spring tension doesn’t change. What some videos from the pro racers like Adam Drake, Ryan Lutz etc. they have many videos explaining it.
You contradicted yourself. If you pre-tension the rear shocks, which would mean they would not compress as easily, you would "stiffen" the car and raise the rear up. And as you said, the droop screws limit the downward motion of the arm, if you limit the downward motion enough the car will sit lower. His setup is stiffer and lower in the front.
@@Mark_5150 preloading the shocks is just putting a load on the shock before the weight of the vehicle is on the shock hence “pre” what that does is take out the droop or natural ride height and keeps the ride height higher. The spring tension hasn’t changed.
@@Mark_5150 it doesn’t actually lower the car it keeps the arm from moving. It’s a false ride hieght and makes your suspension not work effectively. Ultimately keeps your shocks from bottoming out.
These videos have so inspired me! I have 1 124019 and 1 124018 for my girls and I to run around our steet, and 2 124019s ordered. One will be for dirt track my buddy and I are going to build at his place this Spring, and the other will be for speed runs. I can't wait to get wrenching on them!
@@roberttruesdell6151 Yeah, maybe later but for now these are fine. I have had some really hard crashes with no issues with either one. And the two 124019s I just ordered were only $80 so they are great to learn on. But yeah, I'm sure you are right about the quality. Thanks.
@@roberttruesdell6151 the comparison between a 124019 and a lc12b1 is a bit bad, that's like telling someone who has VW gold or any normal car to buy a Ferrari because they are better , lc12b1 might be better, but it's also 3x the money.
