My favorite part about these videos is while he is informing us about potential failure points in the engine build he smiles like he is remembering the catastrophic failure that occurred for him to learn the right thing to do😂. These oldschool car guys have so much awesome knowledge im glad they take the time to share!
Mike is THE only engine builder that emphasizes “track” durability. Any engine can make power but can they survive a road race track use? Most of them not. Great job, Mike!!
I visited the TRD facility in the late 1990's it was quite a fascinating experience. I was a Toyota Master Technician then, I was working in Kearny Mesa when I first saw the first 4AGE in a Corolla SR5. Good Times with Toyota!
These "how to build a great X engine" are amazing videos, thank you for taking the time to talk through why you choose certain parts. I only kind of know what i'm doing with engines and this REALLY helps me expand my knowledge
i remember reading about the H22, b and k series how they learn from it. they got it down to a science how exactly how much HP they want from an engine. they talk about having more HP losing lower and mid range torque to offset it with short gear. they find that having more HP is not always make the car fast. while at the same time it have to be a street comfortable driving experience. they do stated taller engine tend to perform better
would love to see a video of Howard's takes on porting, or how certain porting techniques change the power band. pushing the split back into the port for more volume without reducing flow velocity is pretty slick.
You get even more velocity by redoing the port so it runs through the path where the injector holes normally are. There are 2 ways to go about doing that.
This guy is always borderline about to laugh, idk why, but it makes for a better video! He must have so much joy in building engines that he just can't help himself.
Your knowledge and attention to detail is second to none. Love watching these even though I don't know WTF you're talking about half the time. It's like listening to Pavarotti. No f'n clue what he's singing about, but I know what I'm listening to is awesome.
Great video again men, thanks for taking the time to make it. I'm really looking forward to the 20V build, I have 3 BT 20V's in my garage awaiting rebuilds. (I may have an engine hoarding problem.)
Dude this is so awesome. On my channel, I’m currently working on a Silvertop 20v 4AGE for my AW11 MR2, I stumbled upon 3 of them for $1000 and grabbed all of them. Can’t wait to rip on it.
My 1st training on engine is 4ag.bring up a lot of sweet memories.the best is the engine timing even wrong,won't hit the valve.thats design is the best!
Great high-quality content! The best parts are the slick words, and the background noises. The steel on steel when the parts hit the table are beautiful. The fly by of some race car at 22:35 was incredible!
Hahaha we often have the problem of loud cars and trucks going by when trying to do a video. Also our neighbors have a talking alarm system that shouts at you. We try to filter it all out in post production. Good catch!
I have watched this video at least half a dozen times now. Been waiting for the next 4ag build or maybe some footage of the engines complete and running. Love your builds and please keep it up.
It's amazing how many implantations used on one motor can transfer flawlessly to many others (WPC, Nitriting, Titanium pieces, etc.). I'm doing research currently and putting together a build list for a 3.0L SHO V6 I have and hopefully making it the best better-than-stock configuration it can be
Wish I could be in the shop when you put together one of these motors, it would be amazing to see some of these cars together. Hope one day ill be a good enough mechanic to reach the abilities you guys have in your shop.
From what I understand, a 5A-G is a 4A-G block with a stroker crank. A 7A-G is a 7A-FE economy 1.8 with a 4A-G head. A 9A-G is a 7A-G but with an even longer stroker crank.
@@motoiq I was always under the impression that the original 9A-G's were done with a 1ZZ crank or by offset grinding the 7A to a similar length, at least 90+mm to reach 1.9 or in some cases 2.0 liters. MRP sells a stroker kit for the 1.8l block called a 9A-G as such. The 5A-G was always like a 81 or 82 or so millimeter stroker kit for the 4A-G height blocks. Often they reach the same bore size as a CA18 Nissan engine by boring them out and the pistons from a CA18 were used as well. I believe they have an 83 mill bore
@@motoiq 90 stroke and 83 bore (or 82.5 if the bores are weak) the 1ZZ crank is 91.5 mm stroke. If you use 83mm bore and 91.5mm stroke, you get 1980.29 cc 2.0 liter motor. 90mm and 83mm bore gets 1947.82 cc, so a 1.95 liter. MRP sells a kit that is 90mm. Old school 9A-G builds were done using offset ground cranks or heavily modified 1ZZ cranks (same bore spacing as the 4A/7A blocks) 5A-G is a stroker crank in a 4A-G block, so a short deck height. Boring them out was common as well back in the 90s, to 83mm for the use of CA18 pistons. Stroke tops out usually around 83mm in a 5A-G. 7A-G is a 7A block and a 4A head. 7A stroke is 85.5mm. 9A-G is a stroked 7A-G.
I had a 3K 1.2L 8V corolla motor built back in the 90's stock it made 52bhp at 5500rpm but with all the hand porting , balancing , double valve springs , big cam , 5kg aluminium flywheel and upgraded oil pump spinning at 8000rpm with a locked up distributor it made 125bhp , not bad seeing as it was in a 840kg chassis.
@NinoJoel It was 74 ke20 , it upset alot of more modern car's I had a 50 shot of nitrous below the ford escort 2L Webber carby that got it into the 14's . Exterior of the car looked stock apart from the 60mm exhaust out the back . It was the perfect sleeper back in the 90's .
I really like to hear how much you care about durability for new engine built! Hot motor for a short period of time for max output is cool if you own a race team or have a sponsor to back you up. But people like me who want to have very special car setup that I can keep it for more than a decade, durability issue is very critical for sure! Don't mind loosing few HP over ten years of perfect running engine is more likely I would go for it!
Mike, another great video on 4age build. Nice shout out to MRP! I used their crank and rods in my latest build. Your WPC coating on my oil pump gears & housing were great. Would like to have you come out to Buttonwillow in late September to see a group of Toyota WSR's back on track again!
Customer really came in and said "I want an Initial D build. No, it shouldn't be built the realistically correct way with a dry sump, it needs to be lore accurate."
I mean, lore accurate would suggest it was carburetted using Weber 45 DCOE's, running an 11:1 CR, 312/304 cams, and a terrible stock rod ratio, but still having a dry sump with a 3-stage Barnes pump. The actual engine in Keiichi's Tsuchiya AE86 which the anime based it off of, lasted a very short time. Not exactly sure what happened to it, but he's running a blacktop now with a lower redline and EFI.
the realistic was would be a TRD 20V from the AE101 Group A race car which is impossible to get . Only one guy has actually done it and it was 2995 LeMans GT2 winner and 2002 JGTC Champion Akira Iida. I believe the manga shows a Formula Atlantic engine initally
Only thing i can assume is just money. A dry sump is going to set you back about 2-3~ grand. Which, ya- I get it, this is already an expensive motor, but maybe the extra 2-3~ grand was just too much for their budget? At a minimum i hope they do an expanded oil pan, and maybe do dry sump down the line. Would be an amazing shame to see such an engine get toasted because of a skip on the oil system like this.
That bottom end is going nowhere with that enormous brace in there. Mike was battling to pick that up, it's so heavy. I love how they made it from steel and not aluminium. STRONG.
That was a lot of technical information, made a 31 minute video 'really short'. 😊 Personally, I found it incredibly interesting, some new technology but a LOT of stuff motorcycle engines were using in 1970's! Suzuki GS motors had issues with shims spitting out when high lift long duration cams were used so they got swapped for Kawasaki shim under bucket. Very interested to hear 100 or 102 LSA, bikes were using around 103 LSA even on street motors (but with very little low down torque and a definite power step around 6,000rpm. Very nice video, thanks.
This is what im really waiting for. ive got a couple 20vs sitting in my garage, but finding good information on them is limited. Anxious to see more content on them, with the intent to do something similar in the near future.
Love these vids. Looking forward to build and the startup music it will make. Also looking forward to hear your thoughts and perspective on the 20v vs 16v. ❤
Probably the same as everyone else's thoughts. 20vs have a LOT going on in the head on the intake side, it's tough/impossible to fit very large cams and larger valves in them.
Great insight into the 4age! How is it, that these type of knowledgeable channels do not have more followers? SMH! Thank you for you time and knowledge!
this is a tomitaku 4.7ag 1600cc, hand build himself in his home garage, and a 3AR, and 4 or 5 4AR = busahead 3a or 4ag block all these sounds just as a superbike ! weber + msd + maunal distribut
Im back. On the valve angle, the oem come with a 5angle seat and 2angle valve . Check with SCCA for updayed regs, mines over 10 yrs old.. I still make my valves if its a project, myself +spares. Youre doing a hood job explaining. I like the work on the splitters for the street...i remember all the hours on the FAT ports and copious amout of Budweiser...LOL
We actually used a wider rod 20 yrs ago, may still have a few sets...this was for the 4A block One thing is noticed, which may be a problem is the flywheel to crank pins, I didn't notice any, unless you are putting them in later, as a trade secret. Our flywheels were a bit lighter and the clutches smaller diameter, if what I'm seeing is what you're putting on the motor. I still have a few new assy. On the shelf in case...PS. I'm not marketing here, it's just stuff I have locked up in a cabinet which is locked in storage
Very awesome information as always!! You you guys going to do a video on the assembly of the engine with torque specs and all that great info, or is that information "secret shop info" 😅!!!
Im hyped for that 20v, i just built mine and i wanna see how i did lol. I just did a street build with the MRP 266/260 cams, so far so good but im only 200 miles in on the build so i haven't gotten after it yet.
Be interest to know your thoughts are on the new two-piece HKS pistons in their RB26 3.0L Step 3 stroke kit. Seems like a very clever way to increase the rod/stroke ratio and reduced the weight of the piston at the same time.
Your videos are excellent and informative, but I wish they had Persian subtitles for people who love these videos but cannot understand them because of the English language.
Rod ratio needs to be matched with valve opening and closing events, the piston spends different amount of time on top and travels at different speeds at half the strike, so charge energy on the intake needs to be matched to the rod ratio, it is a very intricate thing and Honda did a lot of camshaft test according to those parameter in order to find those 12Hp
As I recall, I could be wrong, I am getting senile, in the SAE paper, Honda only changed the rod ratio in their research. You can probably find that white paper online for a small fee from SAE.
@@motoiq IMO and I might be mistaken, but most likely they had to play at least with advancing and retarding the cams, think about it, I can't see how they gain so much HP just by adding a few mm. On the Rod length, I don't know what are the Cam specs, if the IVO degrees are a little to much with the longer rod the piston spens more time on TDC, and will travel slower from that position.
I agree that for best results, the cam timing and tuning will change but I am pretty sure Honda wanted to isolate only what difference the rod length would make. Could be wrong though, its been years since I read that research paper.
@@motoiq maybe they hit the money pot without knowing it, and that rod ratio works the best for that cam valve events, who knows, but Honda people are no dummys like me, I guess there is more than meet the eye, they would had figure this out long ago and implement this in there cars unless it has a high production cost or some kind of emissions or oil consumption, maybe piston ring gland longevity issues with running short pistons and tight ring arrangements, in race cars theses don't matter as engine are rebuild often and normally don't see more than 4000km + racing I guess, regular car engines go beyond 200000km free of trouble if well maintained.
You know this guy loves his freaking job You can tell just by his face anyways if I ever had a bucket load of money to build a badass engine for a car this is who I would go to but I don't so I can keep dreaming I guess
Dunno why customers always ignore Mikes sound advice on engine componentry. He always seems to have to be working around customers weird parts and risking the build. Just listen to MIKE and follow his advice!! trust the engine builder!!! you will save money in the long run
That's going to make some awesome noise, and probably upwards of 300 horsepower Will you be dynoing the engine or just assembling it and sending it off to the customer?
Thanks for the interesting video. I can see it wasn't done here but out of interest have you ever tried doing the head modification of making the intake ports more upright? As in re-routing the intake path through where the injector holes are normally located in the head casting. This would be via either machining a wedge out of the head combined with a matching manifold profile to suit or alternatively using the more direct method of filling parts in with welds and then reshaping as required. I am not looking to do such a thing, but rather I only ask because I am curious as it's a very rare mod to hear about it being done.
@@motoiqI know of two people who have this type of mod on their engines, but to be fair they did it using their own resources and it would indeed cost way too much to have someone else do the work.
How much power does something like this make? I feel like tuning it conservatively is the safer option since it doesn't have a dry sump. Im the kind of guy that would pour money into a dry sump before anything else. This guy is living life on the edge.
